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Trailer Bunk Height Adjustment
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20779
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see where some of the 4 x or 6 x upright bunks which are conformed for the deep V boats could be moved back and still give good support.

But most of our boats are on bunks which have 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 bunks, with the 2" dimension up and down--and these can sag without support from the trailer frame.

How far back does one need that difference, and keep truck wheels out of the water? At powell, I end up with truck exhaust in the water or at the surface. I was able to drop it down slightly--but not able to go to Powell any more, so don't know if that would have helped to keep exhaust out of water...

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
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Home port: Pensacola FL
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Currently my boat sits with the transom directly over the aft end of the bunks, (all 4), and just at the end. Seems like a lot of gymnastics to go through to move axles, bunks, and winch post to get 6" to a foot farther back into the water. Wouldn't lowering the bunks accomplish the same result, maybe easier?

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My trailer has 2 x 6 bunks, lying flat on their sides. The center two are the long ones, 12-14 feet (IIRC) and the outer bunks are 4-6 feet long with the outer boarder just inside of the chines by an inch or so. With the Load guide bunks giving some slack, the boat can move about an inch either way from center when loading. (Of course, once loaded and tied, it doesn’t move at all.)

The bunk risers (Pacific calls them “bent top risers” as opposed to their “adjustable risers” – which have an angled bracket that is drilled, and bolts to the vertical piece), are 6 inches tall from the trailer cross member. The riser has a “saddle” that sits down onto the cross member and then is bolted below to pinch the cross member and maintain position.

If I order new bent top risers that are 2 inches shorter (4”), should I have any concern that the geometry of the bunks after lowering them that 2” would be any different than they are now at the 6” level? I would be putting them on in exactly the same positions as the current risers.

One concern I have is that getting the old bolts out will require digging into the bunk from the top because it is a lag bolt that is sunken into the wood on purpose by the factory to keep it from spinning when they tighten up the nut onto the riser. Those nuts are pretty rusty and don’t come off easily. I know that from my experience with replacing bunks on a previous Pacific trailer. I really don’t want to replace bunks at this point but could if I have too.

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks you.

Harvey
SleepyCMoon

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20779
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey,
I went thru your photo albums, and enlarged the photo in your Avitar. I don't see any major problems. You may have to move the winch post and the bow roller slightly--so look at what that is gong to do. Also any chance that the bow would be more likely to contact the trailer frame as loading? It looks as if you have a padding over the forward trailer cross member.

The side bunks may be closer--so you may have to move them out a little.

If you have to remove the lag screw (lag boltI), you can move the entire bunk forward or aft a few inches, giving you a "fresh hole" for the lag screws. You may want to fill the old hole with epoxy, to prevent rot.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Thanks Bob, Much appreciated.

Good idea on moving the bunks, probably aft a couple of inches. That might help some in the quest for deeper water Very Happy

It is sounding more like it should work. Need to be able to do this while the boat is at the yard for bottom paint. No project ever lives by itself. Embarassed Rolling Eyes

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20779
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey, Watch the tongue weight if you mover the boat aft. Even 2 inches will make some change.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got back from doing some measuring, ... again.

Thanks again Bob. Lowering 2" will fit all the way around. I will need to adjust the side bunks and the brackets that hold them. The aft brackets are exactly 2" below the chine, so they will need to be moved. Easy.

Lowering the boat 2" will move the boat back, (aft on the trailer) about 1 1/2" due to the curve on the stem, unless I move the winch post, which has about 1/4" room. Moving the boat back on the trailer will put the transom about 1 1/2" past the end of the bunks. I will probably have to move the bunks aft due to having to dig out the bolts to undo from the risers so that should work OK too.

Thanks for following along and the feedback. Much appreciated.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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Marco Flamingo



Joined: 09 Jul 2015
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City/Region: Seattle
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C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 16 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Limpet
Photos: Limpet
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at the trailer pictures, I don't think that you need to buy new risers. The old ones look perfectly good except for the length. What I would do is use a metal cutoff saw to shorten the originals and a drill press to make new holes on the shortened pieces for the swivel top piece. Easy for me to say because I have access to that stuff. Pulling them off and taking them to a machine shop (pre-arranged to save time), I would guess it will cost 1/10th of buying new.

And that way you could shorten the risers by 1.5 inches, 2.25 inches, whatever is best. It looks like you could go more than 2 inches, but you'll have to measure carefully.

An air wrench sure makes trailer work easier and way faster. Maybe your local grease monkey/mechanic will have that as well. Have the raw cuts/holes sprayed with galvanizing paint ($6 at Home Depot if the shop doesn't have any).

I'd get a bid before ordering new ones.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark, Thanks for the idea. It's great especially if you have the tools and know how. Sure did give me some food for thought though.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marco said:
Quote:
".... Easy for me to say because I have access to that stuff. Pulling them off and taking them to a machine shop (pre-arranged to save time), I would guess it will cost 1/10th of buying new."


FYI Marco, I'm heading to your place to see your metal fab shop. Wink

I drew out the "Bent top risers" and took the drawing to 2 different shops in the area. $240 at one and $300 at the other. It would take 2 cuts on each bracket, and 2ea 9/16" holes drilled. I would do the galvanize paint and supply the Bolts, washers and nuts. There are 12 brackets to do. Total 240 - 300 plus the paint and hardware.

The new ones from Pacific will be $30 each. Total $360.

Harvey
SleepyCMoon

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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "Bent top Risers - custom" are on the way. 2" shorter. From Hector at Pacific Trailer in Chino.

There will be some adjustment in the bunk position by an inch or so for the bolt holes IF the old bolts have to be cut out. I will post some follow-up as the job is completed.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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Slipknot



Joined: 10 Aug 2017
Posts: 25
City/Region: Scappoose
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2016
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


temporary hosting photo

I have a similar but opposite problem- the 25 Cruiser sits too low in the trailer and is very tight between the fenders. Seems like a good way to scratch up the hull!

Trailer is a E-Z TEZ102B with (I think) 80" between the fenders.

Do I just need to adjust the bunks up a few inches?
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 25 sat the same way--it will ride better if low, and be easier to launch. You can glue some carpet to the fender if worried about scratching--but mine never did.

One of the C Brats, had rollers on the side of the trailer at the chine, to be sure the boat was fully centered. If I have time later, I'll try and find that thread. I believe he has sold his boat.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is an interesting bunk system. You could actually raise them if you wanted to. As long as the hull will not contact the wheel fenders, probably no need to, but if you decided to, it would be easy (with the boat off the trailer, of course.)

Raising even a half inch, or 3/4" could make a difference, but as Bob said, it will also make a difference in how far back into the water you have to get to float the boat off.

If I were raising on your trailer, I would probably unload the boat, raise everything exactly 3/4" AND THEN shim or block so there was no chance of the boat wight working the riser down as you travel.

Raising the boat will allow it to move forward on the bow stop, slightly. Be sure and include that in your plan.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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Slipknot



Joined: 10 Aug 2017
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City/Region: Scappoose
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C-Dory Year: 2016
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the comments, I'll give those things a try once I get the boat in the water.
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