Which Trailer if you'd have another chance?

[Fish Mode]

Hey guys and thanks for replying

Was wondering what experiences some of you C-brats have had with certain boat trailer manufacturers and if you'd ever be so kind and post some pros and cons about bunks/rollers, disc/drum/hydralic, and the rustproffness (sp?) with certain manufacturers.
Right now, I'm heading towards the galvanized Kings or possible the Pacifics, I'm pretty sure not Ez'loaders since I've heard some terrible stories revolving their weaknesses. I just need some insight on a good, heavy-duty, 100% salt-water capable, boat trailer with high GWRs...thanks again,

David, known as Fish Mode

[Da Nag]

Hey David,

Here's a link to a previous discussion that has some good info.

My quick opinion - I've had two Pacifics, and like them better than the Kings. The primary reason - the bunks sit lower, which makes launching easier, road handling better, and reduces required height for covered storage. They also are a fully welded trailer, which in theory, might make them less susceptible to corrosion.

They are also narrower by about 8-10", which can make a difference for some folks.

There are some options I'd recommend on the Pacific trailers - some of these apply to other makes as well:

- Stainless brake line upgrade (cheap)

- Heavy duty bow roller support

- Two-speed manual winch (in low, you can easily drag a 22 up dry bunks)

- Stainless disc brakes, on both axles. Unless you ask, they'll only put them on one axle, as that's all CA requires, and that's where they're made. However, many states require brakes on both axles (WA included.)

- Upgrade to Goodyear Marathons. The crap bias ply tires (Carlisles) they put on mine were quickly removed...should have done it up front, would have cost less.

[DodgeRam]

You're right about that EZ-Loader . When I bought my 2005 EZ- Loader , 4000pds tamden 102'' . I had nothing but trouble, I got my dealer to take it back and order me a new welded galvanized trailer . I just love this new trailer, it is a bunk trailer with two 11' boards , 4000pds, this time I got a 9' tongue . Two reasons for it ; # 1 -I own a 11' Big Foot sliding camper # 2- I love the long reach when you put the in the water the truck wheels do not have to go in salt water . My dually truck does not have fresh water flush to clean the wheels! If I have to order it again I probaly get rollers . This is my first time with bunks on a boat trailer. Maybe with more experience I will get to like it better, I find that if the trailer is a little to shallow in the water is is very difficult to crank the last two feet or so to the front roller . I do have the heavy duty hand crank winch, and if the boat is too far in the water the bow hook in the front gets too high at the roller. But with a roller trailer it won't make a difference where your trailer is in the water and makes that hand crank lot easier to turn. One big plus about the bunks is when you are pulling your trailer on the highway your boat sits lot lower to the ground , it makes it a way better ride (center of gravity much lower) . It is also easier to get in and out. I would stay away from plastic fenders they look good but single galvanize fenders are a lot.... cheaper than one piece plastic dual fenders. Gary SEARAM

[flapbreaker]

So far I like my dual axle king trailer with LED lights and disc breaks. The one thing I don't like is the plastic wheel fenders. When it's warm out the flex real bad when you try and get in the boat. I'm wondering how long they will hold up. I also have the bunks and haven't had any problem loading/unloading. I like the idea that the bunks spread the weight on the hull out but this is only something I made up in my mind so don't take it as fact. It just makes sense to me. Plus rollers can be a problem as the trailer gets older. I'm sure bunks can too but just not the same.

[Sneaks]

Like DaNag, I too have the Pacific and like it for many of the reasons Bill points out. Though the main frame/crossmember section is welded, most everything else, like the fenders, bunker mounts, etc. are bolt on and replacement parts are easily obtained from Pacific. It also seems to have a heavier galvanize coating than my previous trailers.

Mine came with Transmaster 215/75 14 tires which I'll keep a close eye on. They still put 205/75 14 Carlisle tires on other trailers though. As for the second axle brakes, I can understand why Bill needs them, considering what he tows with and the possibility of a permanent WA move. It's an easy upgrade I'll probably do at some point.

New trailers come with LED lights - plug in style just like the old incandescent, so LED upgrade is fall down easy with no wiring required.

As for a dual speed winch, tried it, removed it. Much easier for me to dip the bunks to get them wet and leave the trailer a tad deeper before dragging the boat up to the bow roller. At least at the ramps here iin San Diego.

Don

[Da Nag]

[DodgeRam]

Don you mention that you removed your 2 speed hand crank winch,I my correct , if so what did you replace it with? I gest they idea is to sink the trailer at the right depth in the water than pull the boat as close as possible to front roller ? Gary SEARAM

[Sneaks]

Gary, my trailer came with a single speed. I had a 2 speed laying around from earlier adventures and installed it for a while. Unfortunately the 2 speed only uses cable or 3" strap. I don't like cable, and could not find a 3" x 20' strap that could be used unmodified. Since the 2" strap really gave more problems than it was worth, I went back to the single speed.

Late breaking news: DaNag gave me a source for 3" strap so I'll at least prepare the winch should I go crazy and move North.

Couple of methods to decrease the effort on a single speed.

1) Replace the winch handle with a longer one. Fulton carries longer handles and the only caveat is to watch that it isn't too long or the roller will interfere with handle travel.

2) Use a product called "Liquid Rollers" (West Marine) on your bunks, but ONLY use it on the front half or 2/3, because it really does work and if you do spray the entire length, you WILL get side to side movement on curves while towing.

Yes, around here we have a ramp (Oceanside) where you can launch and recover without ever starting the outboard or getting your vehicle tires wet. Float on float off. Wonderful! San Diego Bay and Mission Bay require powering on and off, especially if you're alone. Proper trailer depth is key. Too far in and it won't "stick" enough to climb on or off with the bow strap disconnected. Too far out and you may not launch even with a 90 hp outboard doing it's thing.

Personally, I judge proper depth by how far the forward top of my trailer fender sticks out of the water.

Then again, like DaNag sez, a lot depends on ramps. We're lucky here. Tides don't range as widely as up north, and the ramps are very well built. I'd hate to deal with shallow ramps and low tides.

[TyBoo]

My CD22 had an EZLoader roller type. It never gave me any trouble, but it was a single axle with no brakes, so it was pretty simple.

My CD25 has a King with bunks, dual axles and 4 wheel SS discs. It has never been a problem either. I got the next size heavier than the boat required so as not to be right at the limit. The plastic fenders are just fine for me.

If I was to buy a new one for whatever reason, I would most likely go with the King again, just because it appears very well made. Based on the problems reported by CBs with EZLoader, that one is out in my book. For the CD22, the Pacific might be my choice based solely on the lower and narrower factors. I am kind of wondering how they got it narrower overall with the boat sitting deeper between the fenders, but I don't have a CD22 to run out and look at. I know I would not want my CD25 sitting any lower on the bunks, because there is scarcely enough room between the fenders now. Whatever the brand, tandem axles and four wheel discs would be the choice for new, although I wouldn't replace a single axle trailer under a CD22 just for drill.

Don't get me started on the winching the boat up! As Les so accurately stated a while back, the trailer bearings cost you 20 bucks a set, but the little eye you hook the winch strap to is attached to 1/20 of a million bucks. With carpeted bunks, it is advisable to back the trailer in deep enough to get them fully wet anyway, so I just leave it that far in until the boat is loaded. And I haven't got my feet wet yet.

[Sneaks]

[TyBoo]

The only reason them guys can pick those boats like that is because my wife hasn't loaded it for a weekend of boaterhoming yet! Once she gets the groceries and dog food in there, it's too heavy.

The key to them getting away with that is in the "straight up" part. We know the steel eyes can hold the weight, but the glass they go through is the concern. Sheer versus tensile gives a lot more strength to the attachment points. (I only feel safe making such bold statements because I think DoD is hibernating for the winter.)

[Salmon Slayer]

I have an older (1981) EZ Loader roller single axel that is adequate for the short distances I tow but the boat sits so low that I cant lower the motor all the way when unhitched (and having a slight bow rise on the boat for drainage). I also notice that the boat is busyer than I like which I am assuming is caused by the single axel configuration.

I have to be very careful when loading the boat because there are many things on the trailer to dig into the hull. One center roller at the front has angle iron on either side and if you miss that roller, it digs into the hull. The steel fenders of the trailer are also fairly narrow and you have to watch that the boat doesnt rub against then when loading in the water. I will be looking for a tandum axel probably nect year.

As for putting truck tires or wheels in salt water..DONT DO IT EVER. I take great pains to avoid this and always wash down the truck at the end of the day just like I do the boat and trailer.

[Sea Wolf]

If you want to get exotic about trailer brake systems, you could go with electric over hydraulic brakes. These are a more recent development in the trailer industry, at least as applied to boat trailers.

As I understand it, in this system, a braking control module incorporated into the vehicle's tow package system provides proportional electrical signals to the trailer. The trailer has an electric motor driven hydraulic system that actually powers the brakes.

The advantages here are that you get

1. proportional braking that is controllable and adjustable from the cab.

2. no braking going downhill, unless you want it (unlike surge brakes).

3. no problems with backing up (again, like surge brakes that lock up when you try to back up, necessitating a solenoid or mechanical lock out system).

4. plenty of hydraulic pressure to power double or triple axle drum or disc brakes.

On the down side, to have an effective break away system, the trailer has to also carry a small battery to power the system should the trailer become disconnected from the tow vehicle.

I looked quickly to find a good article to describe this system, but no single easy source. If I find one, I'll come back and post it here.

C-Bill has such a system on his trailer, and I saw it at Lake Shasta last year, but at the time, I was so unfamiliar with the system that it kind of went by without my fully appreciating it's advantages.

Another good addition is Kodiak brand stainless disc brakes. I added Tie-Down stainless discs on my trailer last spring and haven't had any problems with them, but the difference between the two brands is like the difference between the houses made of wood and bricks by the little pigs! The straw house, of course, is the drum brakes of ordinary steel.

Get the discs on all axles. Think about even an aluminum trailer with stainless fasteners if you're a salt water weekend warrior without easy access to rinse water.

I've got my first roller trailer that came with my boat (used), and it definitely has it's advantages in various difficult to launch conditions, such as shallow water. Otherwise, not a problem, and works fine.

A strong and tall set of guide-ons is one of the best launching aids you can have on a trailer. Centers the boat at the ramp in wind and currents, and keeps it centered when trailering. Wimpy ones are proportionately dysfunctional.

Does anyone use a power winch to any advantage on a boat the size of a C-Dory?

An absolute great addition would be a ladder built onto the trailer tongue to get up and over the bow and pulpit upon launching and retrieving. Have one on my pontoon boat and couldn't do without it!

Cover the front "V" section of the trailer with 1/2 " waterproofed plywood to be able to walk out on the trailer when necessary. Add non-skid to the tongue and widen the tongue with plywood or metal if necessary to provide a safe walking surface to walk out on. Non-skid on the fenders helps a lot.

Get a 45 degree spare tire mount and use it to place the spare in such a way that the tire becomes a step between the dock and the trailer.

Most new trailers come with the cheapest wiring possible to keep the cost down. When you have to re-do the system, throw out the old system and
use good, high quality covered tinned cable, LED lights. and make all connections above the water level if possible. Add a junction/distribution box on the tongue under the winch to make secure and above the water line the connections between the front pigtail/plug and the wires to the light fixtures. Get the highest quality solderless connectors, then paint them with liquid electrical tape, then cover them with shrink tubing to prevent abrasion. Ground everything necessary both through the trailer frame and with ground wires. Bad grounds are more often the problem than anything else after a few years. Eliminate points of possible abrasion for wiring.

Get the trailer tow package with a new tow vehicle. Better electrical connections, gear ratios, cooling, brakes, suspension, etc. Also includes trailer brake module for electric brakes, etc.

Enough from me. HTH. Joe.

[Sneaks]

Quick trailer question:

I have 215/75 R14 load range C which came stock on the Pacific tandem C-22 trailer.

What size is on yours?


Don

[SeaSpray]

I have the King tandem trailer that is one year old. It tows well and seems to be a good trailer.

On my way from California to Desolation I had a problem with one wheel being significantly warmer than the others. I had checked the grease on all the bearings before leaving. I stopped at the King factory on the way up and they gave me good service even though they were short handed.

The problem turned out to be the disk brake dragging. I was told you need to flush the brake system every year. I had not heard this before. They flushed the system and it was fine after that. Does anyone else do that regularly?

The general manager John helped me that day. I noticed in his office the design for improved fenders. He said they would soon have stiffer plastic fenders. He also said they will no longer use bias ply tires but put on radials. It seems like they listen to their customers.

Steve