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RoseDoctor



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 5:35 pm    Post subject: Stainless or galvanized Reply with quote

I'm replacing the hardware on my buoy and anchor system. It is salt water (Puget Sound). Am I better off with a galvanized swivel or a stainless swivel?
Gary
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thataway



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this a permeant mooring? What material is the rest of the mooring made of? Generally moorings are heavy chain shackled to the eye of the mooring ballest/mushroom/anchor. Then there is light chain--and often the swivel is between the light and heavy chain, or between the rope tenant, and the light chain. If the rest of the system is galvanized--as is the custom, then the swivel should also be galvanized. But try and get one with American galvanizing. The Chinese, may be 2 to 3 mills, and good American fittings can be 10 to 20 mils of galvanizing....!

The issue I see with Stainless, is not only with the dissimilar metals, but also many SS swivels are now Chinese made--and there have been a number of cases of failures.

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RoseDoctor



Joined: 06 Mar 2016
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob,
Thanks - excellent answer. It is a permanent moorage and the rest of the
metal is all galvanized.
Gary
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hardee



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...Or with NO swivel?

I know, that is a hard concept to bite into and swallow but it can be done.

Last summer, after changing out my anchor to a Rocna, and repainting my rode, I struggled with the same thing. A good friend of mine with years of experience, and tons of knowledge talked me in to trying with out the swivel. I had always used one before. After nearly 90 nights of anchoring last year, all without a swivel, I'm OK now. (I am using 70 feet of chain and 180 feet of 1/2 inch 3 strand. It all works well, self launching with a Swift 600 windlass.

Oh, did I mention, I carried my stainless swivel with me for the entire season, in the box under my feet? I don't think I need it anymore.

Now on a mooring ball, that may be a different matter.

Harvey
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Pandion



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey, why did you repaint your rode? I've not heard of that practice.
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Foggy



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My experience is a swivel will be the weak point in a rode/mooring system, all
else being proper.

Aye.

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thataway



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a permanent single mooring, a swivel is the norm. It can be oversized, so it is not the weakest link--often a shackle is the weakest link, be cause it has to go into a certain sized chain. An oversized link is often forged onto a mooring chain, to take an oversized, and adequate SWL shackle.

If the mooring is two "anchors" and the bow and stern moorings are connected by a "sand line"--that is when one picks up the mooring pennant; there is a bow loop, which goes on the forward create. There is also a line (sand line--which normally takes no load) which is pulled up and leads to a stern mooring line. These are common in some West Coast semi exposed anchorages--where one wants to keep either the bow or stern into the swell or prevailing wind.
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rjmcnabb



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Bob,
Would you please explain, or post a reference for, the two anchor—sand line method for a mooring?
Thanks,
Rod

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thataway



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One picture worth.....



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BTDT



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a youtube video on "how to moor your boat in Avalon' that will give you a more in depth and 'scenic' description of the method Rolling Eyes
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Jazzmanic



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTDT wrote:
There's a youtube video on "how to moor your boat in Avalon' that will give you a more in depth and ''scenic' description of the method Rolling Eyes

The "scenery" was exquisite John. CoolSmile

Peter
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hardee



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pandion wrote:
Harvey, why did you repaint your rode? I've not heard of that practice.


I painted color coded length (or depth) markings. Red was very visible, Yellow was good, black was useless, and they are due repainting again for the new season, after 60 nights on anchor last season.

Harvey
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thataway



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For rode length, I use colored zip ties. Goes thru the windlass well, lasts a long times and much easier to replace than painting.
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Pandion



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hardee wrote:
I painted color coded length (or depth) markings. Red was very visible, Yellow was good, black was useless, and they are due repainting again for the new season, after 60 nights on anchor last season.

Doh. I thought you were talking about painting the entire chain. I've been using those chain markers from West Marine.
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hardee



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pandion wrote:
hardee wrote:
I painted color coded length (or depth) markings. Red was very visible, Yellow was good, black was useless, and they are due repainting again for the new season, after 60 nights on anchor last season.

Doh. I thought you were talking about painting the entire chain. I've been using those chain markers from West Marine.


I forgot to mention that I did paint some of the chain with spray-can galvanize paint. That was because there were some sections that were showing some light rusting.

Harvey
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