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Sunbeam



Joined: 23 Feb 2012
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C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In case anyone is interested, I did find a screwdriver that fit the Yamaha slot perfectly at a decent Ace Hardware. It was one of their "good" ones - the type that has a black section at the tip - and fit like a glove. Slot is still a pain though!

As for torquing, I typically do like to use a torque wrench, and had the figure to hand, but when the Yamaha tech told me how he does it, I decided to try it his way (he was one of the "been there awhile" fellows and has spent time in the past when I've had questions). As it worked out, any looser and it would not have kept from seeping (did use Yamaha screw and new O-ring); any tighter ..... I don't think it was going any tighter!

The guy did say that it's hard to get the O-rings to "clamp down" (or whatever the term is... spread or what have you). He said that when they have a parking lot of new motors (they sell new boats with Yamahas and Mercs on them), they typically have to go around and tighten them all with their method as many of them seep from the factory.

I like the idea of the impact screwdriver. Good tip.
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jkidd



Joined: 23 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a Impact screw driver to remove them. I don't hit it just the big handle gives enough leverage to get it loose. New crush washer and a torque wrench to the proper spec. Haven't had one leak or come loose yet. They don't get a whole lot of torque if I hand tighten them they would be to tight might be a lot harder to get them off again.
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
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City/Region: Madison
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going to ressurect this thread.... I finally found a screw driver that fits the heads of these outboard oil drain plugs perfectly. And now, I've got a stripped lower unit hole in my kicker! The screw is an 8mm. Not sure of the the thread yet, but looks like I'm going to need to go up one size and retap the case. Just wasn't my day today. Oil plug on the main stripped out also. Didn't really think I was overtighening that one, and I suspect it got cross threaded. I was able to buy an oversized plug with an internal smaller plug within it. I'm hoping that works well. Had a hard time getting the oversized plug to go in straight, but it seems to have pulled it self flush as I tightened it. The only other option I can think of, is to find a 14x1.25 plug, and retap the hole for a helicoil. The original plug was 14 x 1.5, however the helicoil and tap set I have is for a 1.25 thread. Other than that, I suppose I could pull the bottom cowl off and see if the block piece the oil plug fits into, is a separate unit that screws into the main lower unit.
As a side note, I asked my local shop how they fix stripped out holes for the oil plugs. This was in regard to the Main's engine oil drain. The mechanic said they don't have that issue, as they "suck" the oil out. I wonder if one can really get all the oil out this way? That drain plug is pretty low on the engine. Colby
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use one time use crush washers bought in bulk from SIM . I use a big screwdriver n no torque wrench. No leaks or or other damage to date
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a big screwdriver with a square shaft. Makes it easy to apply the appropriate sized wrench for torquing.
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thataway



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

colbysmith wrote:

As a side note, I asked my local shop how they fix stripped out holes for the oil plugs. This was in regard to the Main's engine oil drain. The mechanic said they don't have that issue, as they "suck" the oil out. I wonder if one can really get all the oil out this way? That drain plug is pretty low on the engine. Colby


Colby, I have been draining my outboards thru the drain hole (do use a torque wrench, and one can find the proper size screwdriver bit for the torque wrench.

There are a number who say that can get all of the oil out--and I am going to use longer dip tubes and see if I can on my next oil change.

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
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C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob, let me know how it works for you. If it's easier to do the main oil change that way, I may consider it. In the mean time, I just ordered some Helicoil insert kits for the two lower unit drain plug sizes (3/8-16 and M8-1.25) to repair those areas. Next time I change the main engine oil (probably this time next year), I'll look at the fix I did with the oversize oil plug and see how it's working. The oversize plug had a smaller 1/4" plug, which might even slow down the mess allowed by the bigger plug. At that time I can either use a Helicoil set I already have and change threads to 1.25, or pull the lower cowl and see if I should just replace the block that the oil plug goes into. Hard to see with the cowl on, but it looks like the oil plug goes into a block screwed into the engine. Suppose I could look at a parts diagram as well... Colby
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tsturm



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marco Flamingo wrote:
I thought about using my impact wrench with a screwdriver bit, but first I just took a big honkin' screwdriver to it and it came out easy enough. Was it the right size screwdriver? The Yamaha screw is metric (8mm x 1.25mm thread pitch). It wouldn't surprise me that the slot is also metric. I'm not sure that I've ever seen a metric screwdriver. Yamaha probably sells one just for this purpo$e.

The oil change went without incident, so I'm okay for a few hundred hours.

Mark


I bought a Snap-On screw driver that fits the slot on Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Evinrude/Johnson/OMC & Merc 35 years ago.
That's all it gets used for, Lower unit drain plugs. No rocket surgery involved. The correct tool will last a lifetime. Wink Beer
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thataway



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many don't realize that there are large screwdriver bits for 1/2" socket drive in slot bits 5/8",1/2",7/16" wide and philips #2,#3,#4. They are also available in the impact wrench sets, but it is rare that an impact wrench is necessary---far better to soak the fitting with PB blaster or other penetrating oil, before putting any torque if the fitting does not move easily. We do carry a 1/2" drive impact wrench in the truck.

I carry a 3/8" drive inch lb 9" (inch lbs). torque wrench onboard the boat, and a 18" foot lb 1/2" drive. (foot lbs), torque wrench in the trailer tools in the truck. With adaptors to fit various size drives.

Conversion from foot lbs and inch lbs to Newton Meters and to meters Kilogram, are available for I OS and android devices. Not all torque specs are in ft. lbs etc.
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Barry Rietz



Joined: 21 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 11:50 pm    Post subject: Outboard Drain Plug Leaks Reply with quote

When rigging aluminum sailboat masts most of the attachments are made from materials other than aluminum and they will in time experience "galvanic corrosion". A product that is widely used and very effective in preventing this degradation is "Alumalastic". It is also a non-hardening sealer and would be the perfect solution to cure leaking lower leg drain plugs.

https://burnstines.com/products/alumilastic-sealant-10oz-sold-by-tube-25-case

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AstoriaDave



Joined: 31 Oct 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Know this problem well, vicariously, thank God. A less than able buddy buggered the soft aluminum recess into which his drain plug fit, thinking there was a crushable washer to remove. In the end, he carved a new "seat" using an old fashioned water faucet seat repair tool, and found crushable washers to take up the slack. Ten years ago, still going.

It has to be said, however: what a gawdawful engineering decision, to emplace threads in soft aluminum in a hard to reach place. SOP in the real world would be a harder metal insert with hard threads and a hard plug so monkey wrenches could not damage them. Just sayin'!

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jennykatz



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 9:52 am    Post subject: e tec Reply with quote

I guess we could all buy e tec engines and only do lower unit once every 3 years .
On my 2016 merc 115.I have oil seeping out ever so slowly out of the drain nut that the new mercs all have . it makes changing oil very easy but it is leaking so I will pull boat change oil and see why the plug nut is leaking hopefully just a gasket .

During hurricane Irma my engine took a hit from a tree branch cracking the cowling (getting it repaired and might paint it to compliment the cd23) just wondering if it jarred something loose ?I see oil around the lower unit in the water ??

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hardee



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This last summer, after having my OB's serviced, I found an "Oil Patch" on the concrete below the stbd engine. Called the mechanic and took it back in. He was convinced it was not a leak, but replaced the gasket, refilled (which took nearly nothing) and I was on the way. Again the oil patch, on a clean paper towel this time. Same routine, and again the same, no oil required. BUT, he figured out what was going on....

When they drained the lower unit oil, some of the oil ran down into the stainless skeg protectors I have over the stock skegs. They add about 2 inches in depth, but also keep from wrecking the skegs if they drag. AND, that oil spill was gradually running down through the skeg protector and out through a small drain hole on the bottom of the protector. SO, hosed that out well with WD40 and then go use the boat. No more oil leak and lower unit is still full..

More better.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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Larry H



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I second what everyone said about a large screwdriver that fills the slot.

Another thing is that the tip of the screwdriver must have sharp square edges. A screwdriver used as a prybar or can opener soon develops rounded edges on the tip.

A little work on a bench grinder can square up a rounded tip. (Careful, don't overheat the tip!)

Quality screwdrivers (Snap-on, and the like) have hardened tips to resist wear.

A screwdriver tipped socket or socket insert is also a good choice, and can can be used on a torque wrench to control tightening.

Larry H
Retired outboard mechanic
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PaulNBriannaLynn



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A hammer driven impact wrench is magic. if you can get it done with the right size screwdriver, that’s great. Corrosion sucks sometimes. The impact wrench was invented to solve this problem before mangling the screw unusable. I got a 10$ harbor freight unit, and for all I use it for it’s worth it.
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