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Bearing Buddies / Bearings Redux
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.quora.com/How-do-you-fix-squeaky-brakes

The piston will be in the center of the rear caliper, the one the hose attaches to. See the page. It's just held by hydraulic fluid so you can push it back into the caliper with a C clamp. Caliper must be removed and the inner brake pad pulled out.

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Pat Anderson



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, the thingee just above the hydraulic hose connection is the only thing on the inner side that even remotely looks like it could be pushed in...is it the piston? And if it is, and I get a large enough C-clamp, do I have to remove the inside pad? How would I do that without taking everything apart again? Thanks!

On edit - it seems that things is the bleeder screw and not the piston? I sure an not seeing anything that looks like this picture, but maybe when I pull the caliper it will jump up and smack me in the face!


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Last edited by Pat Anderson on Wed Aug 03, 2016 6:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Pat Anderson



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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Photos: Daydream and Crabby Lou
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

localboy wrote:
https://www.quora.com/How-do-you-fix-squeaky-brakes

The piston will be in the center of the rear caliper, the one the hose attaches to. See the page. It's just held by hydraulic fluid so you can push it back into the caliper with a C clamp. Caliper must be removed and the inner brake pad pulled out.


Thanks, Mark, seems like you were reading my mind! See my photo. I will have to pull the caliper but this time NOT disassemble it! Will it then be obvious how to remove the inner brake pad? Off to buy a 4" C-clamp, largest I have is 3".

It may seem ridiculous that I will have lived 70 years in about two weeks and never dealt with disk (disc?) brakes, but this time I am determined to figure it out one way or another!
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you are correct. That "thingy" is the bleeder nipple. Rubber cap protects it and keeps junk out. To bleed the system you'd put a hose on it and loosen it as a helper pushed fluid thru from the front OR attaché a suction unit to it, loosen it and pull fluid thru. Since you did not break the seal and allow air into the system, you don't have to worry about bleeding.

Last edited by localboy on Wed Aug 03, 2016 6:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pad is usually just held in by either springs or tabs; it just sort of 'snaps' into the caliper. Pad rear will ride on the piston and the piston will be a circular steel "thingy" about 2"-3" across, in the center. Sometimes not easy to push back in, but the C clamp will do it. Center the clamp and use a socket to make a spacer if need be.

Usually, they will push in until flush with the caliper body. Then re-install pad and it should give you enough clearance that the rotor will now spin pretty freely. You may still hear some minor metal/metal rubbing but that is normal. NOT binding up, however.
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Pat Anderson



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is NOT going well! I pulled the whole caliper off, then popped the pad out of where it was seated, but there are three springy thingees on the rear of the pad, and there is simply no clearance between the part with the piston and the front pad to pull the pad out. I possibly could bend the springy thingees but I don't think I should do that as it would probably destroy their functionality. It looks to me as though I have to split the caliper again to remove that pad. I will see if I can get a decent picture, but color me frustrated to the max right now, and I am just running out of steam...and confidence!

On edit - couldn't get a good picture, and it is time for me to call it a wrap for today. At it again tomorrow.


Last edited by Pat Anderson on Wed Aug 03, 2016 8:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just think how easier the other side will seem! Wink

In all seriousness, post a pic. It's probably springs that hold the pads that are in the way...probably. They are designed to flex and keep everything in place. Don't bend them. Just unscrew to two bolts and take the caliper apart. Once you get the piston pushed in and the pad re-installed, it will all go together. You've already done the other part of installing the rotor etc.
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Pat Anderson



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picture tomorrow! It is Happy Hour in Birch Bay!
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good call. When my cars really piss me off...I walk away, close the garage door and turn the light off...
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jkidd



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pat there are a lot of videos up on YouTube that you can watch to get an idea. Etrailer.com has a lot also. Looks like your having fun anyway.
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BrentB



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pat

Here is Timken pdf showing various bearings issues

Good Luck

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Pat Anderson



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jkidd wrote:
Pat there are a lot of videos up on YouTube that you can watch to get an idea. Etrailer.com has a lot also. Looks like your having fun anyway.


Jodi, thanks, i have looked at some of those, and none show the same kind of disk brakes I have. Even the Kodiak brake installation video shows a completely different configuration. I will call the place that installed the brakes in 2014 and see if I can find out EXACTLY what brand and type of brakes these are. Without knowing that, it is hard to zero in on any useful information!
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Pat Anderson



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BrentB wrote:
Pat

Here is Timken pdf showing various bearings issues

Good Luck


Brent, as far as I know, I am not having bearing issues any longer, but rather brake issues, specifically, when I put the brakes back on the newly repacked and installed hub, which turned freely before I put the brakes back on, the wheel no longer turns freely. Hence the deduction by many that the brakes are binding and what I now need to do is pull the inner pad and compress the piston. Where I am right now is that I cannot get the inner pad out of the caliper (it appears to me) without splitting the caliper back into its two component parts.

It occurred to me in the middle of the night that I still have the part of the caliper with the inner pad dangling from a wire from the frame, and first thing I intend to do today is to study it closely and see what I can learn about the inner pad.
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BrentB



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK good luck

How do are the calipers?


Sometimes the brake calipers need replacement.
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Pat Anderson



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This picture clearly illustrates the current predicament I think. The inner pad is popped out of where it was seated. You can see the clips or springs under fixed part of the caliper. The inner pad cannot be removed because the clips or springs do not clear the fixed part above them and the outer pad blocks tilting or otherwise moving the inner pad to remove it.

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