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SO WHAT DID YOU DO WITH OR ON YOUR C-DORY TODAY??
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
Posts: 4545
City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just talked to my neighbor who knows metals better than I. He said it is stainless steel! Still asking only $500. But I'm pretty sure shipping won't be too cheap. Colby
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smckean (Tosca)



Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 975
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am adding a 2nd AC outlet from my 1000w inverter to the port side of the boat near where the AC panel is (now I only have a single outlet which is on the starboard side near the galley; so any cord to a device on the port side has to cross the beam of the boat). I am also running a 120v cable from the AC panel to my relatively new 36 amp ProTournament charger mounted under the slashwell (now I have to pull the charger's power cord out of the lazarette and plug it directly into the generator).

I knew I would do this someday, so a couple of years ago when the boat was being re-powered with the Yamaha 200, and the shipyard guys were running engine control cables in that area anyway, I told them to run a couple of AC cables from near the AC power panel to the stern under the spashwell for future use of the charger and the inverter. Well, I presume the head guy I talked to told someone else to do this but failed to mention the intended use of these 2 cables. Anyway, they installed two 10-3 gauge cables which are normally used to carry 30 amps into the boat from shore power. They are huge! (I can't imagine what the installer thought I was going to use those for!) When the job was done, I noted that they had run the cables all right, but I never had a good look at the cables. Both devices use under 10 amps so 14 gauge would have been more than adequate.

Now I have a problem since those 10 gauge wires are a bitch to work with. Attaching them to 120v plugs, outlets, and the C-Dory AC panel is nearly impossible. I think I will get some 10 to 14 gauge step-down butt connectors before I go any further. Ah, the wonder of boats Laughing .

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Sandy McKean
Purchased Tosca in 2014
Re-powered to Yammi 200 in 2015
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JMacLeod



Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 173
City/Region: Stuart
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2018
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: C-Shalom
Photos: JMacLeod
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smckean (Tosca) wrote:
Now I have a problem since those 10 gauge wires are a bitch to work with. Attaching them to 120v plugs, outlets, and the C-Dory AC panel is nearly impossible. I think I will get some 10 to 14 gauge step-down butt connectors before I go any further. Ah, the wonder of boats Laughing .

Ouch. All that wasted copper with an extra dollop of hassle to boot.
I still have to run cables to move and add to the house battery.
Not looking forward to it, or the price of massive wires.


Last edited by JMacLeod on Tue Jun 02, 2020 5:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
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JMacLeod



Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 173
City/Region: Stuart
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2018
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: C-Shalom
Photos: JMacLeod
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Installed a generic winch remote to the windlass.
Works like a charm, even from 50' away and through a door.
No more walking back and forth to reach in the window.
No real instructions, so it was just dumb luck that I got the up and down wires correct the first time.
Snipped off the small ring terminals and attached the piggyback terminals so it can be quickly removed/replaced if any problems.





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smckean (Tosca)



Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 975
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JMacleod,

A word of warning on connectors. I did a bunch of research after I got some tips here (from thataway if I remember correctly). For boats at least, you want nylon connectors not vinyl. Vinyl are brittle and can break apart under vibration or strong crimps. Nylon are more expensive, and in my analysis worth it (but of course YMMV). The nylons come in 2 varieties: single crimp and double crimp (these take differing crimp tools too). The single crimp depend on internal heat shrink adhesive to provide strain relief adding cost to the connectors; whereas, the double crimp ones use the 2nd crimp for that. I decided I preferred the double crimp.

P.S. In most boat applications, the ring connectors (attach to screwed terminals) are recommended not the spade or forked ones. Also, my bet is that most folks will use more butt connectors than any other (that's been my experience), and many of these kits don't include those. I note the photo you included of connectors are for piggy back quick disconnect spades....I can't imagine what one would use those for on a boat.
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JMacLeod



Joined: 26 Jun 2018
Posts: 173
City/Region: Stuart
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2018
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: C-Shalom
Photos: JMacLeod
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smckean (Tosca) wrote:
JMacleod,

A word of warning on connectors. I did a bunch of research after I got some tips here (from thataway if I remember correctly). For boats at least, you want nylon connectors not vinyl. Vinyl are brittle and can break apart under vibration or strong crimps. Nylon are more expensive, and in my analysis worth it (but of course YMMV). The nylons come in 2 varieties: single crimp and double crimp (these take differing crimp tools too). The single crimp depend on internal heat shrink adhesive to provide strain relief adding cost to the connectors; whereas, the double crimp ones use the 2nd crimp for that. I decided I preferred the double crimp.

P.S. In most boat applications, the ring connectors (attach to screwed terminals) are recommended not the spade or forked ones. Also, my bet is that most folks will use more butt connectors than any other (that's been my experience), and many of these kits don't include those. I note the photo you included of connectors are for piggy back quick disconnect spades....I can't imagine what one would use those for on a boat.

Thanks for the heads-up.
I'd originally bought several sets of heat-shrink connectors and terminals to use with the Anchor crimping tool, but I started finding these spade terminals already in use in more than one location around the boat.

Either factory or dealer, depending on whoever was originally responsible for installing the cabin lights and windlass.

I found and bought some Anchor marine spade disconnects that match the factory/dealer ones, but their piggyback adapter isn't insulated.

This isn't the first bit of "unconventional" wiring I've come across.
Wiring from the alt and charger not properly routed to the batteries, and wrong ABYC color wire for the cabin lights come to mind.
I have a feeling I'll be buying a lot more wiring and connectors before I'm done in my boat-learning.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I Got to share a bit of the C-Dory experience with some interested folks. They came to visit on the SleepyC, and we had a nice time to chat, share, laugh and enjoy C-Dory speak. Kathy and Kevin is was great to get to meet and visit for a while. Best to you in your search.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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Knipet



Joined: 11 Nov 2018
Posts: 262
City/Region: Orcas Island
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Model: 23 Venture
Vessel Name: Pan-A-C'ya
Photos: Pan-A-C'ya
PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Watched a couple of YouTube videos on whipping rope ends. I call it going to "YouTube University". Whipped my dock lines and an anchor snubber along with making a nice splice. I remember my grandfather, a Danish merchant marine, teaching me how to splice as young boy, but it was nice to relearn the skills!
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anchorout



Joined: 03 Jul 2013
Posts: 357
City/Region: Lake Charles
State or Province: LA
C-Dory Year: 1999
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: EZ DUZIT
Photos: EZ DUZIT
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 12:50 am    Post subject: moved batteries to port locker. Reply with quote

With the fridge, 6hp kicker, and batteries, and captain all on the stbd side of the boat, the list became Titanic like. So I moved both batteries to the port locker. That leveled things out a bit.
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Nancy and Bud



Joined: 02 Aug 2019
Posts: 305
City/Region: Nashville
State or Province: IL
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Emma Mae
Photos: Emma Mae
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Removed the rusty swim ladder off boat. New one ordered.
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"C-dory's are the 13th step in a 12 step program for sailors."Marc Grove, Wefings Marine
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gstraub



Joined: 02 Aug 2017
Posts: 113
City/Region: Callao
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 1998
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: EnDoryFun
Photos: EnDoryFun
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pulled the boat out for some maintenance and after a good cleaning, finally put the name on the boat!
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Gerhard
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Pacificcoast101



Joined: 29 Sep 2007
Posts: 717
City/Region: Torrance
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: No Pressure
Photos: No Pressure
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We hauled No Pressure out for the third time this year. We had to replace the drive shaft on each motor the previous two haulouts. Last week, we were hoping to dive around the south side of the peninsula but the charging alarm went off. I tried speeding up, slowing down, idling, and turning the motor off for a few minutes but nothing worked.

We made it back into the slip. I told Merry I would likely have to replace the alternator. I removed the cover to find this.


A leak on top of the motor sprayed water everywhere, frying the alternator and starter. We hauled the boat out, ordered parts including new thermostats for each motor and will try to clean off the rust everywhere else.

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Phil Garner
2008 Tomcat 255
No Pressure



Southern California Marine Life
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Nancy and Bud



Joined: 02 Aug 2019
Posts: 305
City/Region: Nashville
State or Province: IL
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Emma Mae
Photos: Emma Mae
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to see that. Good luck!
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20803
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil, How many hours on the motors? Sorry to see that. How long do you think there was a leak..?
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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
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Home port: Pensacola FL
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Pacificcoast101



Joined: 29 Sep 2007
Posts: 717
City/Region: Torrance
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: No Pressure
Photos: No Pressure
PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2020 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1070 hours. The corrugated hoses leading from the motors were too short and pulled away from the motors the first week we had the boat. I tried tape and zip ties but water would still get in. That is the likely cause of the starter and various bolts being rusty.

The water leak that fried the alternator is new. I just checked the oil a week before.
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