San Juan Islands

[Baxter]

San Juan Islands cruise.
The last four summers have done East Coast. I am interested in Puget Sound.
I have read several boots taking about high tides, winds, fog and rip currents.
I am experienced and have a 23' Venture with two Honda 50s. As I read these things mentioned above it sounds like no one should ever go on the water.

Is it really that unsafe for small boats. I would like some local opinions
On cruising the San Juans in our boat. Any hints? I grew up boating
On Lake Michigan, been on Superior and had an out rigger canoe on
Guam. The writings I have been using
Seem to want to scare people off.

Safety Is better than wishing we were ashore. We like adventure but
Have had enough life threating ones. So we value safety but are not
Scaredy cats.

Local knowledge comments would be appreciated
.
Thank you
.

[NORO LIM]

Your boat (a 23 Venture with twins ) is perfect for the San Juans - and all over the Salish Sea! It sounds like you are experienced in boats generally. You also seem to have the good sense to plan ahead and actually try to learn about something before you do it. I think your biggest danger may be other boaters who don't have those qualities but do know where the throttle is on their over-powered, under-maintained boat. Getting into the San Juans from the mainland requires some care and weather watching in order to safely cross open waters - but it's easily done thousands of times a year in a lot less capable boats than yours.

The currents, the fog, and the tides are real, so are the cargo ships and tankers in the shipping lanes around the islands and the ferry boats between and around them. All manageable/avoidable.

It's one of the worlds great places to boat and there are many posts on this forum about approaches to the islands and places to anchor or moor.

[PaulNBriannaLynn]

I don't think its a dangerous place to cruise at all. It can be challenging. There's spots that are more dangerous than others. Those are well known locations like Cattle Pass and Deception Pass, and are related to tide.

the thing about the San Juan Islands, is that when the water moves, it all moves at once, and it all flows out of bottleneck locations like Cattle Pass. There's rocky shoals that may or may not be exposed, but you'll see the turbulent water that indicates the rocks below. A good quality modern chart plotter and/or paper charts are a must and will have many of these dangers marked. It can go from no water moving to absolutely ripping in the course of an hour. Keep a tide chart on the boat, and time your travel on days when there's a lot of water moving.

Also fog, it can get bad. Not really any worse than anywhere else in the PNW, and less fog then the Oregon coast. Again a good quality chart plotter is what you need to get out of trouble. Radar is good too, although we never had it on our boat. We would find someone's private mooring ball and tie off to it, until we could see again. That could take half a day or longer, but it gave me peace of mind.

Its a safe place to boat, and you have a good boat to do it in. Take your time. the biggest dangers are from people trying to travel when conditions aren't safe. Giv e yourself an extra day or two and relax. Its a gorgous place to cruise

[journey on]

We've been both on the East Coast and cruised the San Juan and Gulf Islands. If you've survived the East Coast weather, the San Juans will be a relaxing holiday.

The thunderstorms in the East are terrible, and the spring/summer rains dump a lot of water on you. We've escaped the summer hurricanes but experience their remnants a couple of times.

Not saying they don't have storms and rain in the San Juans, but they're a lot milder that the East Coast. And, there is no chance of a hurricane. If its windy out, wait a day and then go. If there is rain, well, the C-Dory has a cabin, though there is a chance of cabin fever.

The tidal passes are well charted and timed. You will have to read current/tide tables. Though, if you have OpenCpn, free software, they give a graphic representation of the currents and tides.

Remember, the C-Dory is a Northwest boat, developed for the San Juans. It'll take good care of you.

Boris

[MikeR]

Just echoing what others have already said, and adding that I have been cruising the San Juans for 23 years, the last 2 of which have been in a 16' C-Dory. A 23' Venture is a perfect size boat for these waters!

I always keep an eye on the NOAA Marine Forecast for the week leading up to my planned departure, and if wind waves are greater than 2' on the morning of, I dont go. Obviously that's a much easier decision when you live in the area and can go any other time, but I seem to be able to keep my plans more often than not. And using the wind forecast is a bit conservative because some areas are much better protected than others, but usually my lauching points require me to cross some of the most wind-prone bodies of water, like Bellingham, or crossing over from Deception Pass.

Speaking of Deception Pass, Ive never experienced any issues from the current itself, it's the current combined with waves, either from yachts or wind/swells that cause me concern. But I also try to travel early in the morning at first daylight, before the wind picks up and the boat traffic/wakes become too annoying. I find cruising early is so much more enjoyable at those hours anyway, with the low sunlight and so peaceful and quiet.

Hope you decide to make the trip, it's definitely worth it!

-Mike

[JamesTXSD]

I have seen the article about something like: "Ten Places To Avoid In The San Juan Islands." For the most part, that is for chartered boats with inexperienced skippers. When we bought our C-Dory 25 in 2006, the San Juans were one of the first places we went. We have come back a lot since that time; in fact, this is our 5th year working for a whale watch company on San Juan Island. I drive whale watch boats daily in the San Juan Islands (and further).

You don't want to have a cavalier attitude about cruising in the San Juans, but it is a very boater-centric area, AND one of the most spectacular places to cruise a boat like yours. There is an annual C-Brat Get Together in Friday Harbor (often called the commercial/retail hub of the San Juans) - they come here because of the great cruising.

Have current charts, a good chartplotter (and a back-up, such as Navionics on a phone or table). From the 4th of July through mid-September, the chance of fog is slight, but can certainly happen (so radar is handy, but not essential, as long as you are flexible with your timing). Not much rain. The weather is generally a gorgeous 70s and sunny. (This is also part of what brings us back.)

You will want a tide/currents booklet and I suggest a cruising guide like Waggoner's. Yes, there is tide and current to deal with, but with proper materials, it isn't a dangerous situation.

I have met people who have run from the mainland (22 miles from Anacortes to Friday Harbor), boated around San Juan Island, ran to Sucia, and felt they "did" the San Juans. There are SO many interesting places to visit by boat - good anchorages, state marine parks with mooring balls, and nice marinas. From anchoring just off English Camp (site of "the Pig War") or in Blind Bay (off Shaw Island), to living large in the marina at Rosario Resort or restocking on groceries and restaurant choices in Friday Harbor. Watch the striking of the colors ceremony in Roche Harbor. Hike to the lighthouse, one room schoolhouse, and "the Treasure Chest" on Stuart Island.

A dinghy will open up possibilities for anchoring out, dinghying in.

You may want to bring your passports and check out the neighboring Canadian Gulf Islands or spend a couple nights at the Inner Harbour in Victoria (Vancouver Island), about 23 miles from Friday Harbor.

Look for bald eagles, Stellar Sea Lions, and, of course, maybe get the chance to see Killer Whales. There are laws mandating minimum distances and speeds around the Orcas, and "ignorance of the law" isn't an acceptable excuse to Enforcement (there is a sidebar article in Waggoner's about the distance laws - watch what the commercial operators do, and don't try to get too close or cut off another boat's view).

Summer weekends are busy. The 4th of July is a zoo.

We spent 3 summers living on our C-Dory in Friday Harbor, and cruised here a couple summers before that. We are currently "land based" on San Juan Island... it is a beautiful summer day here!

Yes, we love this area. Summertime, it is boaters' paradise. You have a great boat. Sounds like you have a smart attitude. Spend a day, and you will see how beautiful it is. Spend a week, and you will get a glimpse of the boating wonders here. Spend a month cruising the area, and you will be hooked.

Come experience the San Juan Islands.

Best wishes,
Jim

P.S. Look through our photo album here to see some of the great boating to be had in the San Juans.

A link from a day at work here: http://captnjim.blogspot.com/2016/06/a-beautiful-cruise.html

[Jazzmanic]

Ditto to all that has been said before. We bought our boat brand new in 2005. I had no boating experience whatsoever. Caryn spent a little time on a sail boat but never skippered it. We moored our boat right near Anacortes with the sole intention of boating the San Juans. Yes we learned to boat in the SJI's and I'm so glad we learned on big water. The biggest lessons we learned was that it's all about paying attention to wind and current. In our 12 years cruising these beautiful waters, there have only been less than a handful of times when the waters were too rough to safely boat. Your V23 is the perfect boat to cruise these waters. If these newbies could do it 11 years ago, you could certainly handle it with all of your boating experience. Just respect mother nature and pay attention to the weather reports. Come up to the PNW and enjoy cruising one of the greatest cruising destinations in the world!

[localboy]

It is a gorgeous place to boat and you will be fine. Most of it is protected, although as many have mentioned, their are certain aspects that deserve respect and care. I am not the most experienced and have never given it a thought after a week on my older brother's sailboat prior to our C-dory purchase. I trip on that same boat is what got my wife hooked, and she had zero boating experience prior.

Check the weather, check the tides, check your charts...plan accordingly. The summer months are very busy but it slows after Labor Day and the weather is usually still pretty good in early September. Usually. Lots to do; lots to see. Lots of cool anchorages or handy marinas. Lots of wild life too.

We usually use Squalicom Harbor (Bellingham) but others use Cornet Bay (Deception Pass) for launching. There are other ramps/sling launch sites too. Fuel and supplies are easily located all over the islands and there are numerous marinas for showers, laundry etc. Get a Wagonner's guide. It will provide a plethora of info.

[thataway]

I'll echo all that was said above. We first "did" the San Juan Islands in a 14' aluminum skiff with a 25 hp outboard. (2 adults, two children and a lab) Camped along the way, in 1978.

I would suggest that you launch at Anacortes--fairly short crossing. Check the weather in the Strait--might get a bit choppy with wind against current.

Many modern chart plotters will also give you the current, and tide. With a fast planing boat they are much less of a problem than slow displacement boats--but still consider that any major pass at full current can be nasty, and dangerous.. Start timing for slack high water. As your experience builds, then you can consider other times, depending on the pass.

While up there , go up to Princess Louisa Inlet. Take a few weeks, or a few months. Also concur, the Gulf Islands are great--plus Vancouver Island, and the Mainland.

[Hunkydory]

Baxter, go wth the don't worry, have fun & you have the right boat & prior knowledge to do so advice.

After many SE Alaska cruising adventures, we decided to attend the 2014 Friday Harbor Gathering, then cruise the San Juan & Gulf Islands for a month or so after. We gathered information about the area prior & the cruise book information had us about spooked, just like you with all the cautions for the area. It turned out this information was pretty much laughable, other than the possibility of being run over from the zillion other cruising boats from the huge boating population that surrounds the area & of course the fast ferries & in the big channels, freighters.

We really enjoyed the gathering, marine parks, Friday Harbor, & seeing the preserved history settings, but were put off by the endless houses & resorts on the islands that weren't marine parks & the almost constant stream of other boats that had to be watched out for.

Some would say this is a good area to prep for doing the more remote areas of British Columbia & SE Alaska, but I'm glad we started out in the non hectic waters of the Lynn Canal, where other boaters are few, even if help, if needed more so, as we found learning on the go, the hazards of remote Alaska cruising, much less dangerous than avoiding the intense boating traffic of the San Juans.

Jay

[colbysmith]

I took my CD-22 to the San Juans two years ago and had a good time. The tide chop folks warn about, laughable compared to Lake Michigan chop! I used my chartplotter, backed up with charts and stayed out of the shallow areas. Put in at Cap Santa Marina and enjoyed a cool, cloudy week. My brother (who lives in Graham) said we were lucky not to see much rain, but it was cooler than normal. Cool enuf to purchase a little electric heater. I'm hoping to make one of the C-brat gatherings there in the next few years. Colby

[starcrafttom]

ts a little funny that you are worried to do the San Juan's in a 23 cruiser. We first went to the San it was in a 19 ft open starcraft. We bought the Cdory the next year so we would fell safer in a real boat.

I think that the books written about the San Jauns, and cruising the west coast as a whole, are all written by sail boater and slow boaters. Boat that can not get on plane. If that is what you are driving then you better know a little bit more about the tides and currents because you can get into trouble, seen it happen. But you own a boat that can do 25 knots on a plane and I dont know of a single current or pass you can not go right thru ( look for logs). Even when deception pass is flowing 10 knots. you can power right thru. its a little weird the first time but people do it all the time in 14 ft alum open boats with 25 hp motors to fish.

The biggest thing you have to deal with is wind against tide. That can make a nice 2 ft swell in to a short length 4 ft back killing chop. But pick you tides and winds that work together for a smoother ride when crossing the big channels or the straights. once you are in the islands its all easy going for the most part.

Know your reefs and make sure you know where they are on the chart plotters. Great article in this months Sea magazine on which rocks in the san juan not to hit. use you chart plotter. Susan and I watched a 45 ft sea ray plow over a marked reef in day light on a clear blue ski. he was not watching his 1o,ooo dollar chart plotter system or depth finder. How? because he did not look at his chart plotter and thought he understood the channel markers. He was not reading the channels right. Tore both out drives off the boat and would have sank except sea tow was heading back to Friday harbor and was a mile away when it happened. I make this point only to show that no matter the size of your boat or the amount you spend on you navigation if you dont know how to use it or just dont use it, its worthless.

[redbaronace]

Not sure whether it has been mentioned previously, but July and August are great months for the San Juans in terms of weather and generally calmer seas.

[JamesTXSD]

Just to clarify something my buddy Tom said regarding, "which rocks to not hit"... um, there are no rocks here that you want to hit.

Some of the information so far is perspective. My buddy Jay lives in the mountains in Wyoming. If there is one car ahead of him at a stop sign, that would be a "traffic jam." He is more comfortable with the "bear jams" in Yellowstone and boating in the remote Alaskan waters. Having boated out east, you will think the San Juans are lightly boater populated, with the exception of the 4th and a few weekends. The bigger marinas, like Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor will book up at those times, but go in on a weekday and you won't have that issue.

The wind and opposing current Tom talked about - that can be a real thing. The bigger Straits, like Rosario, Haro, and Juan de Fuca need to be taken seriously (even for Great Lakes boaters). It can get snotty in a hurry, but it is rarely a surprise if you learn what to expect with the wind/tides/currents.

Some of the very popular marine parks (Sucia Island, Reid and Prevost Harbor on Stuart Island) will get pretty full at times. With your boat, you can anchor in places that deeper keel boats wouldn't. Bottoms can be rocky, muddy, or thick with vegetation - so check that your anchor is set before turning in for the night.

The sunrises and sunsets are glorious. Gas is available at several places (main marinas). I think Anacortes and Deer Harbor both still have non-ethanol gas.

Anacortes is the closest place to launch from on the mainland, but you will spend more $$ on a sling launch. Stocking up on supplies is very easy in Anacortes, with the Safeway Grocery Store across the street from the marina, and West Marine and hardware stores close by. Bellingham (Squalicum Harbor) has good ramps and free parking; and very inexpensive transient slips (up to 3 nights). For provisioning, you will have to drive.

Working here, and going out on a schedule, I have seen glorious weather and some nasty stuff. I would not suggest you have the "piece of cake" attitude about boating here, but it doesn't have to be scary. Something I have recommended to new folks is to first go to Friday Harbor and spend a few days "day tripping" to get a real feel for boating here.

There are places in Anacortes and Bellingham that do week long charters, and have suggested "itineraries" - you will meet great people on the docks and get inspiration from where they have been. The Waggoner's Cruising Guide is something most cruisers here carry - SO MUCH good information.

[El and Bill]

ENJOY!

El and Bill