Pulling Anchor

[ThumbsUp]

I purchased a Delta #14 fast set anchor and V700 windless on the advice of the C-Brats and Thataway for my 22 Cruiser. I don't have much experience with anchoring and pulling anchor.

What is the best technique for pulling anchor? I've pulled anchors on different boats using an anchor buoy and forward momentum. I worry about the anchor line getting fouled in the prop and possibly sinking the boat.

[tsturm]

[thataway]

Windlass are not made to pull the boat--especially these smaller ones we use, such as the Lewmar.

Generally one powers the boat forward, taking up the anchor rode slack until right over the anchor. Often I find that a single kick or two forward at an idle, is enough to get the boat's momentum going. Often I will go over the anchor, with the rode tight, to break the anchor out. This is using the boat's momentum rather than using the electric motor of the windlass.

Once the anchor is broken out--wither by momentum, or a couple of kicks forward with the engine, with the rode tight, then we raise the anchor. It is good to have markings on the chain, just before the anchor is at the surface of the water, and just before it will come up onto the pulpit.

If there is a muddy bottom, then we put the boat in reverse, with the anchor, just below the surface, and back down, until there is no more mud coming off the anchor. Bring the anchor to just below the pulpit--usually, then one of the crew checks it, and it is eased up over the roller with a couple of quick pushes of the windlass button.

[ThumbsUp]

I really appreciate your help Thataway, you are always so helpful and provide great information.

[BrentB]

We start the motor and approach the anchor. RPMs is about 1000 -1200 . When we see slack then retrieve a portion, then re position and repeat

I usually go forward and remove the line from the cleat and The Admiral runs the controls. She does a great job of keeping the boat over the anchor and goes slowly.

[Hunkydory]

Without wind or current, I sincerely doubt a CD22 is going to strain the V700. Test this out yourself by pulling the boat toward the anchor by hand. If there is some wind or current I do as Bob describes. It's easy to hear if the windless motor is starting to strain & I never let that continue. The majority of the time, I start the retrieval process with engaging the windless, then after the boat lines up in the direction of the anchor, I give a burst or two of low rpm as the windless is continuing to retrieve. Only a few times has the anchor been so well set in sticky mud that cleating off the line before breaking it free with the boat, I thought to be necessary & there have been times it's not perceptible, just when the anchor frees up, so I generally continue using the windless, as I think the boat is moving over the anchor, until I feel a slight tug or hear the windless starting to strain. Most often a gentle forward movement with the boat directly over the anchor easily breaks it free. I have never even come close to your concern of wrapping the line in the prop, even when first starting to use the windless. In most conditions, it's a very simple process, that after a few times doing will make you wonder why you were ever concerned about it at all. The larger concern should be picking the right bottom for a good set & making sure the depths & swing room are sufficient for the conditions expected.

Jay

[BrentB]

related question

After the anchor is set, does anyone cleat off the anchor line or let it stay in the windlass?

[Hunkydory]

With me, it's another, it depends. If I plan on using some reverse power to set, then I cleat it off before. If it's a lunch stop or very short overnight in very protected easy setting clam shell/mud bottom with the no see ums out in force with our 25 # Boss anchor & 50 feet of chain connected to a CD 22, I have on rare occasion not set or cleated off, on the other hand if there is the tiniest concern, I cleat then set. In a good bottom it self sets well.

[thataway]

Pretty much the same as Jay. For example I have dropped an anchor to take the dogs ashore, in the dinghy--calm, I just leave it in the windlass. Generally if we are stopped for the night, I use the bridle system with two snubbers, and the main rode to the cleat.



For backing down, normally I bring the boat to a halt with the line in the windlass--depending on the bottom, I may cleat the line, and then go harder reverse--but with the Boss anchor (2 sizes smaller than Jay's), I find the anchor sets so well, that it is not necessary.

If the anchor breaks out easily (95%) I don't cleat to break the anchor out--there have been a few times if the boat does not break it out with minimal power over it, then I cleat and give more power.

Never stay over night with the rode on the windlass.

[gulfcoast john]

I've found that color cable ties secured to the chain work well as markers and surprisingly, don't get chewed up in the gypsy even if you leave the whole 6 inch tail on. Unlike paint, they are easy to remove when you reverse the chain next season. They're cheaper than the tape markers, and can be used on the line as well if you cinch 'em down tight. Even cheapo medium-duty versions last several seasons.
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Tie-AC8SD100-Assorted-Standard/dp/B005LTJ2OA/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1466712965&sr=8-9&keywords=cable+ties+colors
We had the wireless Lewmar windlass remote control installed by a pro, ran about $600 as I also needed all the extra parts, and the wiring was tight, massive and complicated. I'm undecided on whether it's worth it.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar--three-button-wireless-remote-windlass-only--11866852
Although a 'proprietary scheme' is advertised to prevent accidental wireless activation of the windlass, that would be a nightmare underway on the water or trailering with a self launching anchor. On receipt of the correct RF signal, down goes the anchor. I secure the anchor above the roller with a 50# rubber bungey to the bow rail, and disable the windlass circuit at the thermal breaker when underway/trailering. Belt and suspenders, but popping that breaker is not a bad idea for any of us to prevent accidental activation (by someone bumping the toggle,for instance) while underway. Consider adding that to YOUR Departure/Arrival Checklist.
The thermal breaker is likely un-marked but looks something like this:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--285-series-thermal-circuit-breakers-panel-mount--P011975505
Mine is all black on black, so I painted the pop-down lever with yellow glitter fingernail polish. Fortunately, I had enough left over to do all my nails, too. And one eyebrow.
Agree that the more you use it ( the windlass, not the fingernail polish), the easier it will become, and with Bob that the abrupt appearance of the anchor at the roller can be surprising if the chain isn't marked. When 3 big red cable ties appear at the roller, I know the anchor is just at the water level and we decide then if it needs some cleaning by up/down dunking or a bit of idling. Agree that fouling the prop is never an issue (in my case, with 120 feet of hi-test chain) if you follow Bob's excellent advice.
Most windlass failures seem to be from water intrusion into the gears and/or motor. I'm still looking for a windlass rain cover while docked...we have some torrential downpours.
I use a chain-grabber with 8 feet of nylon 3 strand to a cleat if we are going to go out of sight of the boat. It only takes a minute and just gives peace of mind. I don't use snubbers at anchor but have the Scandvik Bungey snubbers on the dock lines and like them a lot, but they're hard to find.
Happy Boating!
John

[smckean (Tosca)]

[Moxieabs]

I have the same remote control and find it very useful for my type of anchoring & going ashore, along with clearing the occasional windlass jamb while single handing. I too was concerned about accidental launching so I have a off/on switch in the power supply to the receiver unit mounted next to the remote unit cradle. This way the remote control is only active when I plan to use it.

[Jack in Alaska]

Thumbsup.............

Unless you are anchored up in a stiff wind or running tide you will not have a problem of pulling your boat under if fouled in the prop.

I did that trick last year after pulling my anchor over 500 times without a problem in 150' with a 5 knot tide. The whole problem was that i left the engine running (I thought in neutral) and it snagged the line and wound it up. Cutting the line relieved it. The throttle does not have a good solid detent when in neutral. I now kill the engine and raise it up when deploying the anchor and line.
I pull it with a buoy and snap. Works great.

[Robert H. Wilkinson]