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windlass installation where to put the wiring

 
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cgypsy



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:46 pm    Post subject: windlass installation where to put the wiring Reply with quote

I have decided that it can't be THAT hard to install a windlass, so I am going to try and I have a shop that will help me if I get totally lost.

Lewmar Pro Series 700

Here are my questions:

1 Where should I install the circuit breaker? I have two batteries in the starboard lazarette. The instructions say to install it near the batteries. Any suggestions?

2. Where should I install the contactor? I would like to find someplace out of the way.

3. Do you have any suggestions where I should install rocker switch?

4. What size wire should I use? The store is recommending 1 AWG and the installation instructions recommend 6 AWG.

I am thinking that if I lay those out first, I can measure the wire and then get the store to put the connector ends on the wire for me so I just need to attach them.

Are there any other suggestions about the wiring part that might make my life easier?

Thank you so much in advance.

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anchorout



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 12:33 am    Post subject: windlass Reply with quote

I am sure you will get many replies to your question, as this is a popular upgrade. I just added a windlass this year and my method has worked for me.

First of all, I wired the contactor to the starter battery; my thoughts being that the motor would always be running when the windless was being used.

I don't remember what gauge wire I ran, I believe it was one gauge heavier than suggested. I mounted the contactor on the electrical panel behind the helm. This makes it simple to position the up/down switch anywhere on the front of the helm panel.

The breaker should, technically, be mounted as near the battery as possible. However, my breaker has a manual disable switch incorporated, which I keep off for obvious safety reasons (Having one's anchor deployed at 30 kts or 70 mph could ruin your whole day. I do secure the anchor with a shackle pin whenever moving, but that is another discussion.) Should the anchor drag at 2:00 AM, I don't want to be fumbling around in the cockpit, in the dark, turning on the breaker. So, I mounted the switch, as I have seen others do, under the ledge near the throttle. There I can turn power on, manipulate the anchor, and turn power off.

You could certainly measure wires and have the terminals crimped on, or buy a crimper ( The hammer type is inexpensive.). For this "dry" application, I had no reservations with soldering the lugs on with a propane torch, flux, and solder.

I added a remote hand-switch that plugs into a connector which resides on deck, in the old hause pipe, which I sealed off. This works well when I am forward, setting or removing the snubber. A common two way momentary switch (Lowes) mounted in a small PVC tube handle, did the trick.

The system works flawlessly. There are many pictures of of these installations in the photo section. Mine is in the "windlass" folder. Good luck.

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cgypsy



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The breaker should, technically, be mounted as near the battery as possible. However, my breaker has a manual disable switch incorporated, which I keep off for obvious safety reasons


That makes total sense to me. I think it is important to have the breaker easily accessible.

Quote:
A common two way momentary switch (Lowes) mounted in a small PVC tube handle, did the trick.


Do you have a picture of your remote switch. It makes sense to me, I just can't picture how it is done.

I checked out your albums and you have some nice mods. You are an inspiration.

Thank you for your suggestions.
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hardee



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 2:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey, good for you and you will know your system well.

Only comment, on the Switch, Why mount one and have a remote too. I think if I were doing mine I would go with a single switch, on a 8 foot cable, that could go up front, or hang by the helm. Only one switch, works in both locations and keeps it simple. Attach to the helm or under the companion way with Velcro, and save space at the helm and in the wire nest mess. JMHO

Harvey
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cgypsy



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I think if I were doing mine I would go with a single switch, on a 8 foot cable, that could go up front, or hang by the helm.


I'm thinking I may mount the rocker switch that comes with the windlass on long wire so I can take it up front with me.

A wired remote switch costs $250 and a wireless remote costs about $350, but I don't think I would need them if I made my own.

I just wish I knew more about what I am doing, but I'm sure I can figure it out with a little help from my friends.
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thataway



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 1:01 pm    Post subject: Re: windlass installation where to put the wiring Reply with quote

There is no "right way"--there are best practices, but sometimes they are not the safest or most convenient. Thus there will be differences in the way we make the connections.

Quote:
1 Where should I install the circuit breaker? I have two batteries in the starboard lazarette. The instructions say to install it near the batteries. Any suggestions?


I put my breaker on the forward facing part of the galley cabinet, just outboard of the helm seat. This allows me to leave the windlass off until I am ready to use it. I also have a 60 amp fuse near the battery.

Quote:
2. Where should I install the contactor? I would like to find someplace out of the way.


I put the contractor on the forward part of the forward cabin bulkhead outboard; this gave me the shortest wire runs. Also easy to get to if necessary. This is inside of the V Berth compartment, yet covered by the fabric "shield" over the electrical panel.


Quote:
3. Do you have any suggestions where I should install rocker switch?


I put the rocker switch directly below the helm. This is protected, yet easy to get to by feel.

Quote:
4. What size wire should I use? The store is recommending 1 AWG and the installation instructions recommend 6 AWG.


The total run is about 40 feet (you have to use up and back distance), and the amp draw is up to 50 amps. If I can tolerate 10% voltage drop: Table gives the number: #6, however I wanted to be closer to 3%,(#2) so I went with #4 wire. Be sure to use AWG, tinned wire. I also used the wires which come with the motor, at their full length-this is controversial, and I wished that they had supplied heavier wires with the windlass motor...

Quote:
I am thinking that if I lay those out first, I can measure the wire and then get the store to put the connector ends on the wire for me so I just need to attach them.


You can, but this is the time to start making up your own wires. Hopefully you have a good ratchet crimper for #10-#24 wire. The "hit the hammer" type of crimper is what I have used for many years, when I have not used a friend's professional tools, but I often use it in a vise, which gives better control. I have recently purchased one of the hydraulic crimpers at Harbor Freight--and it is only $55 with 8 dies. 00 -#12 Some folks have modified the dies.

Quote:
Are there any other suggestions about the wiring part that might make my life easier?


Use adhesive shrink wrap on the crimps. I use plastic clips, which are placed over the bolts which come thru the deck from the bow pulpit, and small screws with the plastic clips, driven upward into where the overhead under side of the deck to hold the wires in place in the forward cabin.

I always have at least one 1/8" line going between the batteries, or master switch, and the back of the console, so it is easy to pull wires. When I pull one wire, I also pull a second line, to replace the one I am pulling with.

Quote:
I'm thinking I may mount the rocker switch that comes with the windlass on long wire so I can take it up front with me.


I would not do that. There is too much chance that the switch could be damaged or get wet--even putting it in a water proof box, would be iffy... I have made second "remotes" for many different devices including auto pilots, just with normal switches, with custom boxes. In this case, you need two button type of monetary contract switches, no more than 5 amps. The wiring diagram is on line, and it is 3 wires, which can go directly to the contractor. If you have problems with the wiring, a number of us can walk you thru it by e-mail. It is not too hard to make this water proof, and the cost should only be a few dollars.

There are times you need to get that anchor down "now"--not hunt around for the remote, and then plug it in...have the remote, plus the fixed, which comes with the windlass.

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cgypsy



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bob. Those are good tips.
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cgypsy



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I put my breaker on the forward facing part of the galley cabinet, just outboard of the helm seat. This allows me to leave the windlass off until I am ready to use it. I also have a 60 amp fuse near the battery.


I think that is a really good idea, but I'm wondering why you did that instead of putting the circuit breaker at the back and some kind of an on/off switch at the helm.

Of course, I don't know what kind of switch would be suitable - which may be the answer to my question.
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cgypsy



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I put my breaker on the forward facing part of the galley cabinet, just outboard of the helm seat. This allows me to leave the windlass off until I am ready to use it. I also have a 60 amp fuse near the battery.


I think that is a really good idea, but I'm wondering why you did that instead of putting the circuit breaker at the back and some kind of an on/off switch at the helm.

Of course, I don't know what kind of switch would be suitable - which may be the answer to my question.
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thataway



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I think that is a really good idea, but I'm wondering why you did that instead of putting the circuit breaker at the back and some kind of an on/off switch at the helm.


I could have put a switch there, but it would have to be able to carry 50 amps at times--and that is beyond the average small switch. (Reason for contractors--which are just relays. I want the main current shut off, not just the trigger current from the rocker switch (which only carries a few amps)

The second reason, is that on occasion one might trip the 50 amp breaker due to overload on the windlass--should not happen, but I have seen it happen. This way if the breaker is tripped, it is right there, and I don't have to leave the helm, and run back to find it in the Lazarette.
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cgypsy



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I could have put a switch there, but it would have to be able to carry 50 amps at times--and that is beyond the average small switch. (Reason for contractors--which are just relays. I want the main current shut off, not just the trigger current from the rocker switch (which only carries a few amps)


That makes perfect sense.

I was going to cut holes in my bow today but it is raining and perhaps not the best time to that so I will hope for a nice day before Monday when I am going to get the wiring hooked up.

I don't making mistakes on some things, but I think the wiring is a safety issue and I want to make sure it is done right.

Now, I just need some nice weather.
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