Sink and stove mod on a 19

[South of Heaven]

Here's a video of my new sink, stove and dual adjustable fan. I basically copied Tinker Toy's layout! Although his craftsmanship looks a lot better. BTW, in my video the water pressure is low and noisy because my fresh water tank is almost empty.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIs97eQNjJQ

My mechanic fabricated 2 boxes out of 1/2 inch Starboard. He then put in 2 accordion style hinges; cool design. The outside of the boxes he dressed up with oak trim. The boxes are VERY sturdy and will still be used as passenger seats. He added some snaps for the Sunbrella seats to accommodate the the added height.

SINK: I have a SS steel sink which is flush mounted in the port box. There is a faucet that folds down and the switch is inside the box. Below the seat there is a 7 gallon tank with a Jabsco pump. All the fittings were sealed with 4200 and hose clamped. The drain hose to the thru hull is heavy duty and DOUBLE hose clamped.

STOVE: The single propane burner is on the starboard side. It is very securely fastened. The 1lb propane tank line is foldable and lays nearly flat when not in use. I keep the small propane underneath and secured it with a bungee style cord. It's not going anywhere....Cool setup.

FAN: The fan is mounted just port of the top storage area. It has 2 speed settings and each fan can be moved to many different angles.

THE SCARY PART: My thru hull is only about 4 inches above the top of the water line....or top of the bottom paint. If you look at the level of the scuppers it's below that on the next down chine. The mechanic thought that was a good place to put it; I agreed with him because I thought it was above the water because the bottom paint was 4 inches below that.
LONG STORY SHORT, it's not completely below the water line! There are times when at rest on the water it will go under briefly. It just depends on the waves or weight distribution on the boat.
Now, I've inspected the hole from under the storage area and I know that the water will never come up the drain tube....It's practically impossible from a physics point of view. The tube is very close to vertical. Sometimes some water will enter the bottom of the tube and then it'll flow out immediately. So because sea water will never flow up the drain tube, then I guess what I should focus my attention on is to periodically check the hose clamps and any other fittings. If THOSE fail then I'll have water coming inside BUT that's the only way. Right??
At this point I'm more worried about the thru hull itself...Is that bottom chine cored or just fiberglass? The mechanic assured me that the hole is 110% sealed and watertight but I'm always a skeptical person. I like having facts and figures; not lip service and smiles.

Aside from all that, I love the boat!!!! and new mods! LOL

[South of Heaven]

My infamous new thru hull.....

[thataway]

Looks nice. The hull at that point--any of the sides vertical surface--is solid fiberglass.

It appears that the "thru hull' is nylon. If so I am not a big fan. I have had some break--You would be safer with a SS or bronze thru hull. The worry is not water coming up the drain, into the sink--although in a seaway, that is always possible, but if the the hull broke it could allow considerable amount of watering the boat. The good news is that you would know it if you are aboard.

[South of Heaven]

[thataway]

ABYC 27.4.4 Seacock — A type of valve used to control intake or discharge of water through the hull. It is operated by a lever type handle usually operating through a 90° arc, giving a clear indication of whether it is open or shut, and is typically of the two following types:
27.4.4.1 Flanged Sea Valve — A Seacock with an integral flange used to individually and securely mount the device directly to the boat hull structure.

27.4.4.2 In Line Ball Valve — A Seacock designed to be supported entirely by the through-hull fitting.

Now is your thru hull below the water line or not? I would so consider it, since you do see that water comes thru it when the boat is at with any chop,

A proper sea cock;



This may be a bit of "overkill" for a CDory"--but what is proper. If you put a sea cock on, or even a thru hull with a threaded tail piece you put a ball valve on, it should have solid fiberglass thru the hull (can be thickened epoxy), and a backing block.

As for the number of "plastic" or "nylon--un-reinforced I consider them not satisfactory for a thru near the waterline. Marlon is an impact-resistant, noncombustible, fiberglass-reinforced material with UV inhibitors, formulated for marine applications. Some like this--I tend to avoid it, because I have seen it break.

I have seen new nylon thru hulls break. I have seen ones which I have no idea of their age break. Certainly with time, there is more likely to have a failure due to UV light degradation of the plastic material. I do have one thru hull bilge pump discharge nylon fitting, which I check the inside and outside regularly--it is 18" above the actual waterline. I have 3 thru hulls, which are 12" above the waterline and are SS.

The answer to is a white nylon thru hull strong enough for a valve?--is no, it is not strong enough.

I don't understand your question about the 4200--what did the mechanic do? Is the hose clear, or is it re-inforced with nylon threads? I always use re-inforced for a drain.

[Sunbeam]

I wouldn't prefer the through-hull to be that low, but if mine was, I'd definitely have a proper seacock on it. Then you have a way to shut it off in case of hose failure (and I'd shut it off whenever not aboard as well). I wouldn't see any reason to have the potential exposure to a hose failure sinking the boat when you are not even using the sink. Sure it's not likely, but still. I'd also want a bronze (or chromed bronze) or 316 stainless through hull, but that's just me.

Double clamping is only required on a couple of specific hoses (fuel fills and one other one that I forget at the mo' but I think it's inboard-engine related). Double clamps on any other through hull are optional and fine UNLESS there is not the right amount of space on the barb. Sometimes the barb is not long enough to really accommodate two clamps, and then one of the clamps sort of rides on the edge of the barb and can actually damage the hose or "encourage" the hose to try to come off. So I'd look and if there is not enough room to really accommodate two clamps, then remove one of them. I like AWAB type clamps that are easier on the hose than the ones with all the open slits.

I'd also want to have hose rated for beneath the waterline, although technically you are only beneath the dynamic waterline. But then there's no harm in having the beneath-the-waterline rated hose either. Just a preference.

The one minor plus I see is that you won't have much "droozle space" on the topsides between the through hull and the waterline (for staining, etc.). That wouldn't be enough to encourage me to put it that low, but it is something.

[thataway]

Sunbeam is coreect that ABYC and CG (for recreational boats) only require double clamping on fuel fill and on exhaust fittings. ISO which is the European standard for recreational vessels does require double clamping on any hoses to sea cocks--especially below the waterline.

I have had a number of marine surveyors insist on double clamping hoses below the waterlines--they are correct is is a good idea. But if you were to press them to show you in any US regulations, they cannot.

Absolutely excellent point about barb length--and quality of hose clamps. We often see hose clamps which are SS from the auto parts store....problem is that the screw fittings are not SS, even if the band is SS.

[South of Heaven]

My bigger concern now is figuring out if my thru hull is regular plastic or Marelon. If the latter then I'm not too concerned. If the former then I guess I'd contemplate having it removed and reinstalled with a good metal one.

I'm not gonna even think about having the hole filled, re-glassed, epoxied or whatever. And then having ANOTHER hole made. No way.

I'm sure everything is fine and the 2 subsequent sea trials that I did proved that. But it never hurts to be over cautious when you're on the water.

[Sunbeam]

Here's the Forespar Marelon page showing white through-hulls with barbs. The outer rim looks flattened, which may be a clue (I've seen other random plastic through hulls that have a more rounded lip). Also, if memory serves, they may have Marelon embossed on the lip, but I can't remember for sure.

http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-mushroom-head-hose-barb-thru-hull.shtml

If you went to a seacock you wouldn't be using a through hull with a barb directly on it (but maybe you don't plan to change that).

Photo of the white Marelon barbed through hull from the linked page:

[South of Heaven]

[Sunbeam]

I may have missed something, but I didn't see where anyone was recommending filling this hole and adding another one. Maybe recommending a seacock sounded like that (?). Adding a seacock could be done using the same hole, just different hardware (seacock and threaded through hull). Maybe that was obvious, but just figured I'd mention it. Asking the installer is a good idea. Maybe you can get a part number, which will tell you exactly what you have.

[Aurelia]

Just adding a simple ball valve on that drain line would make me feel like I had an option for closure or at least carry a pair of these and tie them to the hose for easy access.

http://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T70547-Hose-Pinch-Pliers/dp/B00A8FNOP0

Just last week we ran across about 8 miles of open water with 4-6ft wind waves crashing on the port beam/bow. I would be willing to bet that in such a situation, your drain would allow water under that wave pressure to slosh up the pipe and splash around your sink area. It would be nice to have a quick solution for that mess.

Greg

[Aurelia]

A valve of this type could help with any possible backflow splashing as well.

http://www.adventurerv.net/shurflo-inline-check-valve-p-1722.html?gclid=COib0o7a8MwCFUVsfgodGkAHww&utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle


That's why our heater exhaust is as high as I could get it. This waterline reference is with nobody on board but loaded for cruising.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=album2346&id=20150826_174122&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Your sink drain would be under water on our heavy 19.

Greg

[haliman]

[Aurelia]

Were you able to put the seat cushions back on the boxes for dual use? That would be slick. More pics!

Greg