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Sneaks
Joined: 06 Jun 2004 Posts: 2020 City/Region: San Diego (Encinitas)
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Brat
Photos: Jenny B and C-Brat
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Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 4:31 pm Post subject: Bottom paint alternative |
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Caveat: I have no fiduciary connection with Armored Hull or Affordable Marine Service, the dealer with the product described below. It's just an alternative to the AirDock system described in other threads and my motivation is simply to share this as a viable alternative.
While setting up at our marina, I noticed a 25' Skipjack almost directly across from our slip that had a "plastic pond" surrounding the boat and no bottom paint whatsoever on it. Absolutely no buildup on the hull or outdrive. AAMOF, the outdrive looked brand new. Turns out the owner is also the dealer for Armored Hull (AH) and he's kept that boat in the AH for several years. I learned later that there are 5 other boats in our relatively small marina with the AH product and all are very satisfied.
Bought it.
First impressions:
It took less than 2 hours start to finish to assemble, launch, and install the dock with two experienced people and a powered dinghy. Simple enough to build, it was towed from the launch ramp after assembly via the dinghy and affixed to the dock side rather easily before filling it up with water. In my case, the ramp was only 100 yards from the slip but a launch ramp isn't absolutely necessary, just way more convenient.
It takes 3-5 minutes to lower the gate, 11 pumps on the air pump to raise it again. The rear is 4' deep, the front is 1' deep.
The outside surface of the "pond" will need scraping about once every 3 years here in San Diego since it is exposed to marine life. YMMV. Chlorine tabs (five 3" tabs) are replenished about once every 3 weeks.
The smallest model fits the C-22 just fine but that reaches the limit for that size AH. Next size up isn't that more expensive.
You can gently idle in and out but they recommend for safety of the gate to just push out past it when exiting and pull it in when entering. I've tried it about 4 times so far and it's not a big deal. We C-Dory types have very little draft to worry about anyway.
Heavy rain locations can make it difficult to lower the gate because of fresh water problems and requires an additional step. I forgot what that step is since it never rains in Southern California, but it didn't seem to be a big deal.
So here it is. I have a couple more photos in the Jenny B album, including a closer shot of the gate end.
Don
Last edited by Sneaks on Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:38 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Bob Cat
Joined: 28 Dec 2004 Posts: 262 City/Region: Santa Monica
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Dive Cat
Photos: Dive Cat
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Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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Hi, Sneaks
Heading for San Diego tomorrow to take the grandkids to the zoo. I love San Diego.
I'm interested in your real life experience with the growth on the outside of the system. I understand from the Harbor Department here in MdR that many of these have been used until the growth builds to the point where it sinks the system to the bottom. What does the rep recommend for exterior cleaning. If left too long, it could be a very difficult job. Note the post about barnacle glue. We get long, green algae filaments here. From what I've seen, that what likes the exterior surface.
Thanks,
Bob Cat |
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Sneaks
Joined: 06 Jun 2004 Posts: 2020 City/Region: San Diego (Encinitas)
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Brat
Photos: Jenny B and C-Brat
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Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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Those filaments grow here too. As far as personal experience, I'll get back to you in three years or so Otherwise I can only take the word of the guys here.
They scrape it off with a wide plastic scraper shaped and sized about like a plastic dustpan only thicker attached to a long pole and the "indicator" of when to do it is when it takes a lot of time to close the gate due to growth weight on the outside of the gate. It's not supposed to be a big deal job. No need to worry about barnacle glue, it's weight that needs to be removed. Same thing has to be done to Airdocks too, same procedures.
I was given an easy procedure for this particular location but it's a job more for the younger, fitter set to do. Maybe hire 3-4 marines and pay 'em off with a few cases of beverage of choice.
Don |
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Captains Cat
Joined: 03 Nov 2003 Posts: 7313 City/Region: Cod Creek>Potomac River>Chesapeake Bay
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Captain's Choice II
Photos: Captain's Cat
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Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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Don, how do you keep the salt water out and the fresh out when you "lower the gate", or is that what the chlorine tabs are for?
Charlie _________________ CHARLIE and PENNY CBRAT #100
Captain's Cat II 2005 22 Cruiser
Thataway (2006 TC255 - Sold Aug 2013)
Captain's Cat (2006 TC255 - Sold January 2012)
Captain's Kitten (1995 CD 16 Angler- Sold June 2010)
Captain's Choice (1994 CD 22 Cruiser- Sold Jun 2007)
Potomac River/Chesapeake Bay
K4KBA |
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Sneaks
Joined: 06 Jun 2004 Posts: 2020 City/Region: San Diego (Encinitas)
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Brat
Photos: Jenny B and C-Brat
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Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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Charlie the water inside is just like the water outside 'cept it's disinfected by the chlorine tablets. Opening the gate to go boating means losing the treated water until you return, tie up, raise the gate and the tablets get the chlorine level back up again, usually within a few hours.
The sides and front end are held up by 6" schedule 80 PVC pipe which provide flotation. Top of the gate is the same except it has a valve/hose system that can flood the pipe so it sinks, carrying the gate down below the prop so the boat can exit/enter. Then it's pumped out with an air pump and the gate closes again.
Pretty simple arrangement.
Don |
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westward
Joined: 18 Feb 2005 Posts: 718 City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: TBD
Photos: Steady Eddy
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Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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Did the dealer address concerns re: placing clorinated water into the surrounding water upon launching? Maybe it's actually less toxic than the bottom paint most of us use. Mike on Westward. |
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Byrdman
Joined: 06 Nov 2003 Posts: 3320 City/Region: Cumberland River, Clarksville,
State or Province: WA
Vessel Name: " ? " After Rename Ceremony
Photos: FreeByrd and C-Byrd
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Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 8:56 am Post subject: |
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Looks pretty cool. I do not think a "tub-a-water" will hurt things with a bit of chlorine.... How many times do we go down the dock with a guy washing his boat and the water is just running into the lake? Ever check the chlorine level in "city" water just to keep it potable coming in thru the water lines??? WAY up there....much higher than the chlorine levels of my pool..... and then.... watch the dude go sit down with a refreshment of 6 talking to his dock buddies.......and simply forgot to turn off the water in haste to get to the cooler. Grin. Glad that aint never happened to me. |
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Sea Wolf
Joined: 01 Nov 2003 Posts: 8650 City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
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Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 12:54 pm Post subject: |
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Don-
Looks like a viabale choice for where you boat!
We used to see this same type of approach up here in S.F. Bay in the 1970's, used especially on racing sailboats.
Most of the pools had air inflatable collars, and they used a blue colored substance in the water inside (a copper compound such as copper sulfate).
Disappeared suddenly. Probably outllawed because of the amount of copper induced into the enviornment.
Too bad we can't still use tri-butyl tin in paints! Still allowed on freighters and tankers that must compete economically in international shipping.
Is there tri-butyl tin in submarine paint?
Glad I'm in freshwater, under a covered berth (much less light for organisms), and the bottom paint lasts 3 years!
Joe.[/list] _________________ Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California
"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous |
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Sneaks
Joined: 06 Jun 2004 Posts: 2020 City/Region: San Diego (Encinitas)
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Brat
Photos: Jenny B and C-Brat
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Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 2:05 pm Post subject: |
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Sea Wolf wrote: | Don- Is there tri-butyl tin in submarine paint?
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No. Subs are normally underway a lot so organisms usually can't catch up and climb aboard, Joe. There's usually a fringe of green slime around the waterline, but no special paint additives that I know of. Certainly no "bottom" paint. They get into drydocks or floating drydocks fairly often and get pressure washed there as well.
As for westward's question, I'm told the "pond" has less chlorine than tap water and doesn't present any danger to the local edible critters such as sand bass, calico bass, spotted bass, halibut and occasional bonita etc that visit our part of the bay.
Don |
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Chivita
Joined: 04 Nov 2003 Posts: 218 City/Region: Hansville
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Chivita
Photos: Chivita
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Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 4:42 pm Post subject: |
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Westward I can somewhat respond to the safety concerns of Chlorine due to the time I served on the water board of a private water system. Chlorine is routinely added to drinking water supplies (within reason) to overcome contamination issues.
Sneaks, the only concern/comment I would add is that anyone considering this system should first contact their Harbormaster or Harbor Department. I wanted to do this up here and the Harbor Department will not allow it. Everything I have heard about this system has been quite positive! |
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