Suggestions for high-quality trailer brake lines?

[NewMoon]

Hi Sunbeam,

FWIW, when I did disc brakes, lines etc, I replaced my 10,000 lb Titan coupler with a 16,000 lb UFP model A-160. It's far superior in design, not just in cpacity.

[Sunbeam]

Richard,

Thanks for your thumbs up (based on experience) for both the thermoplastic brake lines and the UFP coupler. It's not the same as having used it for awhile, but I definitely liked the one I played with at the shop. It's tempting to change since the Titan is annoying and I'll have the brake system "open" and need to bleed it anyway.

[Marco Flamingo]

It sounds like the leak was right at the thinnest point of the metal fitting. Seems to me that the only reason you would have metal fatigue there is if the rubber hose leading to the fitting was not of sufficient length to absorb the vibration of the axle. Even though there might be enough slack to not cause an obvious bind, if the rubber hose was yanking up and down on the fitting a thousand times a mile, it might cause the fitting to fail. I have seen lines (which I didn't do on mine) that make a complete loop between the trailer frame and the brake caliper. It could be that a "slight bulge" is not enough. I may have to re-arrange my lines.

I bought my actuator based on some reviews that it was easy to bleed and an improvement over the previous model (following some older reviews where the new model had some issues). It has a large fill cap (didn't spill a drop) and a simple bleeding process. Insert a screw driver in a hole and pump the fluid through. I did the "hose in a glass jar" method and was close enough to watch for bubbles myself. A one man 10 minute process.

The ball clamp on my new actuator is better than many that I have used, but it still requires some accuracy, just not as much as prior hitches. I've had some where if the ball didn't enter perfectly you couldn't just wiggle a little and get it to set down. You had to start over again and get the alignment perfect. Really a pain when the trailer is on uneven gravel and the vehicle has to be aligned perfect (no adjusting the trailer a little - you have to use the vehicle to get it perfect). The one on this actuator seems a little more user friendly. Not that important anymore since I have a backup camera.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BJ2DG3G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

The pin that lock the ball clamp is temporarily moved back to mechanically lock out the brake actuator for reversing (if you don't use the solenoid). Two downsides. If you are stopped on a steep hill, the brakes already have pressure and the pin won't fit in the lockout hole. You can't use the mechanical lockout. I was using a UTV that doesn't have backup lights, so no reverse solenoid. I had to chock the trailer wheels, let the UTV roll forward to release the pressure, then insert the pin and back up. Kind of a pain after the convenience of the reverse light solenoid, but at least I could back up.

The second issue, and this may be a deal breaker for some, is that this actuator doesn't have the traditional ball lock for anti-theft. An alternative method would have to be used if required.

Mark

[Sunbeam]

I thought I'd follow up since I started the thread.

In the end I decided that I wanted to know my trailer and what was "in there," so I did all the work myself, and went past just the brake lines. This eliminated the last of the "professional" work I had done by the original trailer shop (a good thing!).

Starting at the front of the trailer I put on a new coupler, a UFP A-60. I haven't towed with it yet, but it seems to have some nice design improvements over the previous ones I've had (Tie Down that failed almost right away, and a Titan that didn't fail but was very fussy about latching, and didn't have a convenient manual brake lockout).

I also went with all new fasteners and nuts for the coupler and chains. In addition, the UFP coupler uses six holes in the tongue not just four (it has an inner member that rides in an outer housing).

Next, new thermoplastic brake lines (UFP) and new fittings. I spent some time doing a better job than the previous one of securing the brake lines. There are loops welded onto my trailer frame but they are a bit far apart for non-rigid lines. I didn't want to drill holes in my galvanized trailer if there was another way, but after researching, I found that it can be a challenge to stick things to galvanized steel. I went with a Weld Mount glue (AT-8040) and their glue-on wire tie mounts. I placed these wherever the loops left too much of a gap, then used them to secure both the brake lines (with hose for anti-chafe) and the new trailer wiring. I decided might as well get rid of the cheesy wiring while I was at it.

Then, for various reasons, I went with new Kodiak hub/rotor/caliper sets. Instead of Timken bearings this time (as I read they are no longer US made, although I didn't have any new ones to actually look at), I went with SKFs that were made in Japan. Got everything put on just so, new bearings and packing, buffed up spindles, etc. My axles take Bearing Buddys so that's what I put back on (cleaned up and re-used). I switched from Lucas Red N' Tacky to Green Grease, for somewhat arbitrary reasons.

Let's see... what else. Oh, after an annoying mishap where my buddy accidentally dumped sawdust into my open brake reservoir while manually bleeding (don't ask), I bought a Motive Products bleeder. Oh boy, does that make it easy and tidy!

I also bought some guide-ons from Pacific Trailer (where I sourced most of the parts), but have not installed those yet. Might do it yet this spring, or maybe next winter - but I wanted to grab them while I was there as they are heavy and bulky (great service from Pacific Trailers btw).

While I was under there, I did a better job of cutting/fitting/stapling my bunk carpeting.

I also got four new tires put on the rims while I had them off. Load Range D this time just for extra margin.

It would have been a lot easier with the boat off the trailer, but I got 'er done.

Thanks again for the suggestions!

Sunbeam

PS: One note is that the Kodiak all-in-one (I think they call them integral) brakes/rotors will fit 13" wheels, which the separate units won't).

[thataway]

One thing to watch out for with the Thermoplastic lines is getting them pinched or damaged. On My C dory25 trailer, When getting new tires, the tire shop, either put a jack, or jack stand over the thermoplastic Break line--damaged it, and I had to buy a replacement from Pacific Trailer. I don't know if steel would have survived any better, but this time around with the 22 trailer, we have steel brake lines. Also with road debris/gators etc, I fear that there could be an issue with the plastic lines. Hopefully you will have a good experience...

[Sunbeam]

I hope so, too. I did run the lines aft first inside the box section of the tongue, then inside the C-section of the side rails, and then across the tops of the axles -- so maybe that will help. If they don't work well, I guess I'll try steel next time around.