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Jazzmanic



Joined: 07 Feb 2005
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City/Region: Seattle
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey, when we bottom painted, they used the same bottom paint all across the lower portions of the motor as well as the trim tabs. Basically carried across the same line. Both of these portions did collect barnacles while wet mooring for at least 6 months.

When we re-bottom paint this spring, I think we'll paint these metal areas with special paint made for metal below the waterline. Hopefully this works better. Especially on the trim tabs. I bought the special spray paint a couple of years ago but have yet to do it. This spring.


Peter
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are some bottom paints which are comparable with Aluminum. Those include TriLux 33, Vivid, Hydrocoat eco, Ultima Eco, spray cans of West Marine outdrive, Trilux 33 outdrew, Petit "Alumaspray Plus.

I try and keep the lower leg of the outboard out of the water. My Caracal, has a small area on the tip of the Suzuki 140 which is in the water, so that has a a number of coats of one of the outdrive paints on it. The C Dory gets the vivid applied to the trim tabs (except the zincs), and the outboard bracket. I can keep the rest of the outboard out of the water.

Be sure there is a good barrier on the aluminum before spraying. Probably on SS a coat of epoxy will give a better bond.

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
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Hunkydory



Joined: 28 Mar 2005
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City/Region: Cokeville, Wyoming
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey,

The information about the Pettit Hydrocoat ECO bottom paint, I applied last spring, says it can be applied to the areas you asked about. Thus far, I haven't tried it, but as I have plenty of paint left, I think this spring, I will start by trying some on the undersides of these areas. As mentioned before I'm very pleased with the ease of application on the normally applied areas & how it performed last year.

Jay

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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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City/Region: Sequim
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C-Dory Year: 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bob and Jay. I have to decide which and what pretty soon here. For me, this bottom painting is a big decision, but I think the right one now.

Just working on the "appendages".

Thanks Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

Harvey
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At the Seattle Boat Show I ran into some folks who do bottom paint. Who'd a thunk it, right? I actually talked to a few of them who would answer serious questions.

Anyone here have any experience with the Sea Hawk line of paint? They have the full meal deal, and have been around for 15+ years, and have some pretty major boat builders using their products -- Westport and Ocean Alexander are just a couple that I remember.

I am looking into that line comparing it to Vivid, which has been around for much longer.

Curious?

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question for those who have bottom painted.

What did you do with the Brass Stem strip? I see 3 basic options.
1. Pull it off, fill the holes and then paint and leave it gone.
2. Pull it off, fill the holes, Paint and reapply it.
3. Pull it off, fill the holes, Paint and then apply a Keel Guard over the bottom paint.

Thoughts, and reasons please?

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

#4. Leave it in place, and paint over it. This is what I have done on all the boats and no issues.

If you pull it off, you will have to not only fill, but cosmetically blend the bow to the rounded profile which the brass strip gave. In my 22, the brass strip got up to the bow eye, so there would be an area to gel coat, and blend in.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
#4. Leave it in place, and paint over it. This is what I have done on all the boats and no issues.

If you pull it off, you will have to not only fill, but cosmetically blend the bow to the rounded profile which the brass strip gave. In my 22, the brass strip got up to the bow eye, so there would be an area to gel coat, and blend in.


If you paint over it, how dies the paint maintain over time, on the brass?

OR, looking at #3. the KeelGuard would cover the profile void, after the screw holes were filled.

This is the one I am leaning toward, as I don't like the idea of painting over the brass strip and not having it painted underneath, on the gel coat.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob, what do you use on underwater sensors such as the transom mounted depth sounder? Or do you have any on the 22? I'm asking because last summer the depth sensors ended up being covered in small barnacles whilst in Frisco. Never in the San Juans when we were there. Must be water temp and stagnant water.

Does regular copper bottom paint reduce the signal? I never thought about it before.

Boris
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

journey on wrote:
Bob, what do you use on underwater sensors such as the transom mounted depth sounder? Or do you have any on the 22? I'm asking because last summer the depth sensors ended up being covered in small barnacles whilst in Frisco. Never in the San Juans when we were there. Must be water temp and stagnant water.

Does regular copper bottom paint reduce the signal? I never thought about it before.

Boris


Good question. Please add the use of the baby diaper rash cream (Desitin) or another Zinc Oxide treatment in the answer. I used Desitin on the trim tabs and around the edges of the transducer last summer. I did not put it on the bottom of the sounder transducer, or on the outboards, but scrubbed them with a brush fairly often.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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Hunkydory



Joined: 28 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey, I found the brass strip offered near the same as no protection when hitting a rock at very low speed on one of our early Alaska cruises. The brass strip bent to the side & a holding screw broke off. I ended up removing the strip & filling the holes & covering the area with Keelguard. In my opinion the brass looks good, the keelguard actually protects. I felt much more comfortable beaching the boat using the bow after installing the Keelquard.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey, the paint seems to do fine on the brass (bronze?) strip. I painted the large boat thru hulls for many years--only problem was when I converted one head from manual to electric--and I had some electrolysis with paint bubbling. Put a switch in the negative line and solved that problem. This was with copper containing paints.

Are you going to paint the keel guard? (Keelguard says that can be done) I have not had one. Saw one which was starting to come off--have seen several which were holding up fine.

I agree that hitting a rock with the brass strip, would cause damage..I didn't take my boat boat to on rocks--just on sand.

I have used the hydro coat and baby diaper rash ointments on large props--with fair results.

For the motor and transducer there are "transducer" paints sold. I have also used a very light coat of vivid. Right now on my downscan/chirp transducer --no paint.

On my son's 25 we put a downscan/sidescan/chirp transducer--and he already had bottom paint. We put a light coat of bottom paint--he is keeping the boat in Dana Point and has a diver monthly clean and check the bottom.

Boris, yes a thick coat or several coats of bottom paint may slightly attenuate the signal. But with my Cal 46, I had a depth sounder transducer sitting inside the hull in the keel sump--the bottom is almost an inch thick of fiberglass there, and there were 3 coats of bottom paint. I still held the bottom at 600 feet--which was the limit of that depth sounder.

Airmar (makes most all of the transducers) states that you should only use water based bottom paints: Specifically MDR, Woolsey, Pettit, and Sea Hawk
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't think I would paint the Keel Guard, but not sure about attaching it (gluing) to the bottom paint. Might question the adhesion of that process. Might put the keel Guard on then paint right up to its edges all around.

Good question. I will as Bitter End about that, as getting rid of the brass strip on C-Dorys has been their recommended practice and replacing with KeelGuard.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jessie at Bitter end response:

Pull the brass rail, fill the screw holes, then put on the Keel Guard. Paint up to the edges of the KG because the paint will not stick well to it and it will not adhere well to the bottom paint. The Epoxy barrier coat would go on before applying the Keel Guard, and after the holes are filled.

he would apply Sea Hawk paint, but does not think it looks as good after 2 years as the Vivid will.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should not apply the keel guard over bottom paint--adhesion issue. But putting it on after the epoxy would work.
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