Windlass/Rode splice problem

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 9:10 pm Post subject:

Harvey- Will try to draw up a schematic and take some photos when I get back from a weekend trip tomorrow and Monday.

It's an easy project.

However, it will work only if your windlass has a relay type contactor where the up/down switch works on a low amperage circuit, and there's a relay in the contactor that sends the high amperage current out to the windlass.

This is the way most of the windlasses work. The dash at the helm has a small amperage up/down switch which tells the contactor/relay which way to send current through the reversible DC windlass motor.

However, many of the smaller Lewmar (formerly Simpson/Lawrence) windlasses pull the full 80 or so amp current through the up/down switch right on he dash, without a contactor/relay unit. The dash switch carries the full operating amperage of the windlass right though it, reversing the current in the switch itself because of the way it is wired. This works best for small windlasses in the 400-700 size.

Larger ones have so much current that it's simply easier to do it though a relay, plus you usually have a much larger boat with the larger windlass, and the desired helm location for the switch is often a long way from the batteries and the windlass. My Sea Ray windlass battery, it's dedicated charger, the windlass itself and the contactor are down below and forward in the V-berth, quite a ways from the flying bridge.

A remote for one of the smaller types would have to have wires capable of carrying the full 80 amps up to the remote at the bow from the helm and back again, and probably have to be at least 6 gauge or larger!

More info later!

Have a great weekend!

Joe. Teeth

Sunbeam · Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 9:52 pm Post subject:

Harvey,

Also depending on which windlass you have, Lewmar makes a wireless remote. I know that you need to have the relay/contactor, but other than that don't know the specifics. It was available for my Lewmar 700H (~2013/2014 model).

NORO LIM · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:23 pm Post subject:

Sunbeam · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:27 pm Post subject:

That looks a little different than the one I have, just for comparison. It's this one, and is wireless:

More detail here if anyone is interested:

http://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8836&lid=27469

It looks like it basically works with any of their windlasses that use a solenoid (which I think they sometimes call a contactor), but it does mention to contact them with any questions. It does work with the "stock" 700 (Pro, horizontal) that I got last year.

NORO LIM · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:57 pm Post subject:

Lost Petrel · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 2:18 pm Post subject:

Lost Petrel · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:39 pm Post subject:

thataway · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:58 pm Post subject:

20 seconds on the search function of this web site came up with the instructions and photos I did of the 8 plait splice about a year and a half ago. I have used this over 100 times, and zero problems feeding thru the windlass (700H). I don't know if there is an "up grade kit", since I purchased the windlass about 18 months ago.

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=21709&highlight=plait

I prefer a double back splice, over any of the woven chain splices--but if you can proof the splice to several thousand lbs, then it should be good to go!

The wireless remote is great, I believe that Jody used one at Powell. It seemed to be flawless. My Lewmar 700 H windlass installation instruction sheet had all of the details of the wireless remote, along with part numbers and simple diagram. It looks like less than an hour time max to do the wiring and installation if you already the contractor, which I believe that all of the new 700 H's have.

Below is a photo of the completed splice before use: A bit dirtier, but about the same size:

TyBoo · Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:53 am Post subject:

Here's the infinitely helpful email reply from Josh at Lewmar. It kind of bugs me having spent probably four thousand bucks on their stuff over the years that they really don't care if it works or not.

AstoriaDave · Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 2:01 pm Post subject:

Mike,

My splicing career is nearly nonexistent. The only suggestion I have is to work the splice hard over a rounded edge to improve the flexibility. Dr. Bob's splice is light years ahead of anything I could do.

thataway · Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 5:44 pm Post subject:

The secret of any splice is to bring it tight, and work it well as you do it. Then do the taper. The taper, takes a bit more time, but brings the line into the gypsy in a smooth manor.

With a lot of bulk, it suggests that who made the splice was not putting the physical work into making it tight. Paradoxically it can also make the splice stiff. It is also possible that the person doing the splice did not do it correctly.

The nice feature of a good splice, is the more you pull on it, the tighter it grips. Sort of like the Chinese finger basket trick. (I don't think that applies to chain weaves. I put this one on the trailer hitch, and the chain end to a big oak tree--brought it up to what I estimated would have been over 2000 lbs load.

hardee · Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 5:31 pm Post subject:

SGIDave · Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 7:30 pm Post subject:

Kushtaka · Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 8:13 pm Post subject:

hardee · Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 11:36 pm Post subject:

I had serious concerns about just getting a "standard rode to chain" splice done, even at Defender, but one of our local Sequim Contingent CBRATS came over this afternoon with a newly purchased length of Yale 8-strand Plait spliced to a 1/4" chain, and it looked very nice. Tight, with a taper, and covered in a blue sealer of some sort.

We tried pulling it through my windlass. Not so good. It slipped and just would not hold. Looks like the pros at Quick and Defender were on the mark. I will be staying with the 3 strand for now.... Just updating the connections from rode to chain and chain to anchor and the anchor.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon