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ssobol
Joined: 27 Oct 2012
Posts: 3374
City/Region: SW Michigan
State or Province: MI
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
Photos: SoBelle
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 Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:50 am Post subject: |
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| journey on wrote: | ... The first was a 9.9 (don't you love that number, they can claim HP to the nearest 1/10?) ....
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This is probably because a lot of lakes/reservoirs have restrictions only allowing motors of less than 10HP. There are a number of these in my area that would be good for my CD-22, but my motor is too big. Most won't even let you launch a boat that has a big motor on it, even if you aren't going to use it (i.e. using the kicker). |
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smckean (Tosca)
Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 975
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
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| Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Did you ask about the "19313-ZY6-000 (or -010) SPACER *NH8* (Honda Code 9137126)" To me that looks like a plate Honda designed to seal off the corroded surface on the chain case and allow you to reinstall the thermostats without replacing the chain case. |
OK.....here's the "rest of the story"......
Essentially, everyone's guess was right  . journey on was correct that there is a spacer part (~$23) which would normally be the fix for this problem. But it also true that my 2005 Honda BF150 did not have this part! That's what the service bulletin was about.
The chain case was redesigned to add that spacer part so that corrosion problems near the thermostats can be repaired without having to spend $1000 for a new chain case. And indeed, if the engine was still under warranty, and if one claimed that one had a corrosion problem in the thermostat seat between the chain case and the thermostat housing, then Honda would replace the chain case at their expense with the newly designed chain case that includes this new part.
So when journey on looked at the parts explosion, it shows that new spacer design, but my engine did not have that new part. Les at EQ and I looked up an old part explosion diagram, and sure enough that spacer part was not there in the original parts explosion.
I also have a copy of the service bulletin that describes this design change (including serial numbers). I will post this bulletin later today or tomorrow.
If you have an Honda BF150A or BF135A engine with one of these serial numbers, I recommend you look into this situation:
BF135A BARJ-1000001-1301170
BF135A BASJ-1000001-1300077
BF150A BANJ-1000001-1302336
BF150A BAPJ-1000001-1300373
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smckean (Tosca)
Joined: 18 Jan 2014
Posts: 975
City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
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journey on
Joined: 03 Mar 2005
Posts: 3595
City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
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| Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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OK, the thermostat housing on the Honda 150 on Journey On, on which I work doesn't appear to be corroded at this time, but... I'd like to make sure that I know what's involved.
First, I want to thank Honda for letting me know to let the motor drain after every use. Thanks, smckean, for doing that job.
Next, since I don't want to change the chaincase and exhaust manifold at this time (or ever,) I wonder if that plate could be fitted directly to the existing chaincase, using a little bit of JB Weld. I assume the hole pattern is the same, so maybe, if the chaincase surface is still smooth, one could adapt the plate. Would be worth $23 to find out.
Broject #273-a-100
Boris |
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kaelc
Joined: 19 Jul 2017
Posts: 411
City/Region: Saanich
State or Province: BC
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Island Magic
Photos: Stil-Afloat
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| Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2023 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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| journey on wrote: | OK, the thermostat housing on the Honda 150 on Journey On, on which I work doesn't appear to be corroded at this time, but... I'd like to make sure that I know what's involved.
First, I want to thank Honda for letting me know to let the motor drain after every use. Thanks, smckean, for doing that job.
Next, since I don't want to change the chaincase and exhaust manifold at this time (or ever,) I wonder if that plate could be fitted directly to the existing chaincase, using a little bit of JB Weld. I assume the hole pattern is the same, so maybe, if the chaincase surface is still smooth, one could adapt the plate. Would be worth $23 to find out.
Broject #273-a-100
Boris |
Hi, Did you ever give this a try? Looks like mine has to be fixed so looking at the kit. Anyone else do the repair themselves? Thanks
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starcrafttom
Joined: 07 Nov 2003
Posts: 7882
City/Region: marysville
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1984
C-Dory Model: 27 Cruiser
Vessel Name: to be decided later
Photos: Susan E
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| Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2023 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | The engine has always been flushed using muffs after every retrieve to the trailer. |
So here is something that sounds easy and simple but depending on your water source you are most likely doing wrong. I was doing to wrong and had a similar problem with my thermostat. So here me out on this. What does a thermostat do? It opens up and allows water to flow into the motor to cool it ONCE IT REACHES A SET TEMP. So here is the problem. I live in the PNW and I am on a well. A 250ft deep well. You can not wash your hands in cold water at my house because its so cold, even in summer, that it hurts. So will my thermostat reach the temp needed to open at idle in my drive way with such cold water??? Well no it does not. I know because if you watch the exhaust port, the prop hub, when I flush the engine you can see if the flow of water increases and gets warmer when and if the thermostat opens. At idle mine does not. So what do I do now, for the last 5 years? I run the motor at about 1500 to 2000 RPM until I see the warmer water and increased flow come out the hub. I let it cycle 4 or 5 times this way. That way I know that the other side of the thermostat was really flushed. Now my thermostat, which I inspect once a year, is salt and corrosion free. Its not some thing I really thought about until that first thermostat failed and saw just how corroded it was. I have 4 power boats and this is my system on all of them. So it all depends on what your water temp is like but here in the PNW where public water comes from cold lakes and wells are deep you might want to check and see if your thermostat is really opening up during a 5 min flush. even at a high idle it takes about 5 to 8 mins for the temp to open it up. I am willing to beat that most people are not really flushing thier motors because of this. So what do you think?
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Thomas J Elliott
http://tomsfishinggear.blogspot.com/ |
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clayhubler
Joined: 03 Aug 2019
Posts: 280
City/Region: La Center
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Hammerhead
Photos: Hammerhead
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| Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2023 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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Tom, that is a great point and something I've never thought about before. Thanks for sharing that.
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Clay on Hammerhead
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Peter & Judy
Joined: 03 Dec 2014
Posts: 550
City/Region: Olds
State or Province: AB
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Mistaya
Photos: Mistaya
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| Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2023 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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Even though I live in Alberta as does my boat, most of my boating hours are in salt water. I am fortunate that my brother-in-law lives on Sproat Lake on Vancouver Island. After each salt water journey (most are about 2 weeks long), I launch the boat in this fresh water lake and go for a few hour cruise. I like doing this as it gives the motors a good flush, helps to wash the salt of other parts of the boat and the trailer as well. I think flushing with muffs on is a good final step, but a few hours or days running at all speeds in a fresh water lake can't be beat.
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Peter & Judy Haase
Buffalo Horn Ranch
HMCB Mistaya
"Mistaya" (Grizzly Bear in Cree)
HMCB (Her Majesties Cute Boat) |
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drbridge
Joined: 25 Jun 2014
Posts: 220
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Susan Marie
Photos: Susan Marie
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2023 11:42 am Post subject: |
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After a long trip in the salt or mooring our boat in salt for a few weeks, I flush the motor through the flush port for half hour and then I run the motor in a 100 gallon stock tank with salt away. I let it run for about a half hour and then let it soak in the salt away tank over night. The next day I will run it again for another half hour and then put it away. Salt away is a good product and anything you can do to remove salt helps.. It is very important when flushing a motor to run it until the thermostats open up so the cooling ducts in cylinder and head are flushed thoroughly.
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Doug & Susan |
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