Hi All. Gotta have a CD 22 Cruiser in Tacoma

[Rob55]

My wife and I are at Fort Lewis for the second time in our lives. We want to learn the sound, fishing, crabbing and cruising, so we have been considering a boat. Lots of talk and no joy in the boat department. On the way to the Olympia farmers market we passed a small boat repair business. stop the car she said, that's the boat I want. It was a C dory with a Honda outboard and kicker that looked to be about 20' called "Dancing With Waves". I've sailed Cds before. I like a boat with sheer. They are so much classier than the aluminum fishing boats. So I am here. Seems to be several WA boaters here.

Any special corners or things I should be concerned about when looking at older CD 22 classic cruisers? Are the newer motors and hulls worth the extra 10k? Do the CD folks around Olympia and Tacoma ever get together? Does anybody have one they want to give me?

Thanks

Rob

[Sunbeam]

Hi and welcome! Sounds like it was love at first sight You're in the right place as it's full of friendly, knowledgeable fanatics

[JamesTXSD]

Well, you've passed the first hurdle: the wife has already told you that's the boat she wants.

The C-Dory hulls hold their value. Newer motors and electronics will command more $$. You are in the part of the country where C-Dorys are at home, so: yes, there are a lot of friendly C-Brats around here, and lots of boats. I would suggest that you have your finances in order so that when a good example of what you want in a C-Dory comes up, you are ready to jump on it.

Check the home page for a C-Brat gathering, then make the trek to it - it will be a great opportunity to see boats and talk to owners. That may be the best pre-purchase investment you could make.

Good luck with your search.

Jim B.

[Rob55]

James and Sunbeam

Thanks for the warm welcome. Yes I've found the classifieds. I'm just not educated enough to do a proper cost benefit analysis. My assumption is unless abused a10 year old hull is not much different than a 5 year old hull, specially in the lower uv cooler great PNW. Prices vary 10 to 20 k. If the difference is just fuel consumption; 10k will buy a lot of gas. If I have to repower in a couple of years; 10 k is false economy. Finances are in order. The other thing, diesel stove/heater. I am a beach and boating in the winter kind of guy. Just wondering if you have any experience with that.

Thanks again. Rob

[Sunbeam]

Hi Rob,

If you are staying within one size of C-Dory (say, all 22's), then there is little difference in fuel usage between the various boats, as long as you stay with a 4-stroke or modern 2-stroke engine (E-Tec). So you can probably eliminate that as a comparison point.

The hulls are basically the same from 1987-present. Small changes to this and that were made along the way, but they are such that they don't change the overall character of the boat, and an individual might prefer various of them. What I mean is, there is no "known" better year or tweak. For example, I was open to any year boat from 1987 on up, but I did slightly favor those from around 1995-2005 (for my own personal, idiosyncratic blend of the various changes and features). But I would have bought another year range. My own personal highest priorities were stored indoors, the fewest possible accessories added, and no bottom paint; but another person could easily have different ones (again, no universal "truth" on which is best).

Our main size engines (typically either two 40s or two 50's, or a single 75-115) went from carbs to fuel injection in the mid-2000's (different brands at slightly different years), and that is considered a dividing point by many. I have a carbed engine and that's fine with me, although I would expect to pay less for a boat with a carbed main engine, all else being equal.

The Wallas combined stove/heater seems to be a love it or hate it sort of thing. On the one hand, it does both, and takes up precious little space doing so. You can easily take along extra fuel if you are going on an long trip (say, Inside Passage). On the other hand, they are the opposite of "a flame and a tube" (basic stove) as they have a lot of parts and circuits, etc. They are expensive to buy (so good to have one on the boat already if you want one), and a bit more expensive to maintain (vs. a flame and a tube). They take a while to heat up for cooking (say you just want to boil a cup of water on a hot day), and just in general, a combo thing never does the job as well as two separate things that are each dedicated to one job.

So, some folks LOVE them (and for good reasons).
Some really don't like them.
I'm somewhere in the middle: My boat came with a Wallas and I just knew it would drive me nuts to wonder if it was going to work or not, plus I often just cook something quick (not the Wallas forte). So without even giving it a chance , I removed mine (and sold it to another C-Brat who falls into the first category). I carry two devices (one for cooking; one for heating).

Newer boats are worth more. A lot of that is because they are... newer. As you would expect. But unlike buying a 20 year old car, you actually can buy a 20-year-old C-Dory 22, and if it's in great shape, you aren't buying something that is going to seem as outdated as a 20-year-old car, because they haven't changed that much. Also, as long as it is in the budget, it is easy to re-power, change electronics, etc. (whereas you really don't do that on a car). So really, any 22 could be a good one, just depending on condition, rigging, and what you personally want.

[thataway]

Welcome aboard.
The price can be all over the place, withe the "Classic" (prior to 1987) being a bit lower. The condition of the boat, to some extent the year, new 4 stroke or Etec motors, and electronics plus other add ons, will always bring the price up. I think that a newer motor is always worth while. I prefer to put my own electronics, unless the boat has high quality and recent electronics. A full camper back is desirable, since it gives you a second "room" A windlass can save the back.

There may be bare floor boards in the 2005. There is the forward dinette seat which slides aft to make a forward facing "navigator's seat, and more recent boats have molded fiberglass interiors.

Trim tabs are almost essentials, at least for a single engine boat.

[colobear]

Welcome Rob. C-Dory hulls are pretty bulletproof and hold their value. Conventional ideas about boat value are of limited utility when looking at C-Dory's, C-Dorys sell for much more than an equivalent older boat. The true "Classic" C-Dory hull was flat bottomed. That changed to about a 15 degree deadrise (someone correct me here), in the late 80's-early 90's. Modern 4 stroke engines last for many years and, given good care, at least 2-3,000 hours. Electronics go obsolete much faster but we are operating a 9 year old Raymarine system and it works just fine. The most popular model around here is a 22 cruiser. Like all boats it is a compromise. Best for cruising, not as good as an Angler for fishing (bigger cockpit in the Angler). Many people have their 22 cruisers out for a week or more, we've been out in ours for a month and a half at a time. One of the best things about a C-Dory is this group. We are welcoming and helpful. If you just ask, someone will certainly offer you and your wife a ride on a C-Dory. We have what we call C-Brat Get-togethers throughout the year. The biggest is in May in Friday Harbor. The next planned one is August 22-24 in Victoria BC. By all means take a ferry to Victoria (The Coho goes from Port Angeles, the Victoria Clipper from Seattle) and visit the gathering. You will be welcomed, you can see different models of the boat, etc. The best day is usually Saturday when most everybody will have arrived. Tom and Susan Elliot are the hosts (Starcrafttom and Susan E. on the site). Contact them by going to the Victoria gathering thread. We will be out of town so will not see you but you will really benefit from a visit to the group.

Good luck.

Barry Daniel
(US Army Ret.)

[Rob55]

Thanks for all the great input. I'm calling the bank and insurance co tomorrow. The search begins.

[RobLL]

Rob - I may see you on the water late this year or next. I plan to make the decision then buy a 22 early this winter. My thread on this is just a week or so older than yours. The main question was a CD, and 22 or 25. You may find the comments useful to you. I have found your thread useful. RobLL

[Rob55]

Yes, RobLL. I was reading your thread at midnight last night. I'm pretty much committed to the 22 cruiser. Both of my vehicles are pretty maxed towing. I don't think the boss will sign off on a new F 350 and a boat. My RWD Tacoma is rated @ 3500# and has limited slip. I have no doubt it we'll move the rig on level ground, getting it up a slick or gravely ramp the first few times will give me opportunity to worry.

It would be great to meet you sometime soon

[Rob55]

http://www.boattrader.com/listing/1999-C-Dory-22-Cruiser-102193566#

http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2006-C-Dory-22-Cruiser-102314260

These two and the one in the c-brats classified in WA seem to be my choices. If I went for the CA one it would be sight unseen and shipped for an additional $1k.

[Sunbeam]

Just as a data point, and without going to heroic measures, a C-Dory 22 all up on the trailer will weigh around 4200 to 5200 pounds. I just weighted mine again coming north this spring. Empty tanks, moderate gear load, tandem galvanized trailer. I had 4000 pounds on the trailer axles and 350 pounds tongue weight for around 4400 pounds total.

You could lighten that perhaps. Empty boat, single axle aluminum trailer, etc. Of course then you have more gear weight in the tow rig, unless maybe you are close to ramp and can make two trips. I don't say this to discourage you, but just to let you know that you won't likely have a 3500 pound all-up weight on a typical 22 cruiser.

Of course tow rigs are a whole 'nother discussion.

[thataway]

I would be more worried about the towing on highway than up a ramp, unless there is not enough weight on the driving wheels. I have towed boats the size of a C Dory22 in lots and up ramps with an 18 to 25 hp lawn tractor--it is the gearing that gets the boats up the ramp. Most light trucks and SUV's have enough HP to get the boat up the ramp in low gears. But you want the weight, hp and gearing to pull and stop the boat on the highway.

[Rob55]

Thataway. You are right. The worst thing that can happen on the ramp short of sinking the vehicle is getting stuck. If wind or weight take over at highway speed someone can get hurt. My wife's SUV is rated at 4900. We would use that for road trips. The Taco would just be for short trips to the ramp. One of my biggest concerns is I can be doing everything right except being overloaded and if somebody else hits me in the rear I could be at a fault if they decided I am over loaded. The factory says it will load up at 3500 or less. We will see.

[Sunbeam]