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Tough Tom Cat 255 Boating Day Ends with Sea-Tow
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gulfcoast john



Joined: 14 Dec 2012
Posts: 989
City/Region: PENSACOLA
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2010
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Cat O' Mine
Photos: CAT O' MINE
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:32 pm    Post subject: Tough Tom Cat 255 Boating Day Ends with Sea-Tow Reply with quote

We live 110 miles away and arrived at our marina (NAS Pensacola Bayou Grande) last weekend to find no AC power on Cat O' Mine and the AC panel tripped off with the 'REVERSE POLARITY' red warning LED on. The fridge automatically switched to DC and ran down the house battery toward the Nova Kool design specified 10.8v cutoff (how about 11.6v, you Nova Kool slimeball engineers?) The AC Marinco shorepower inlet neutral prong (to white wire) was totally blackenened/seared/charred/fried and wiggly loose and the corresponding shorepower cord receptacle hole burned sooty black and charred. No pic but the inside cover was so sooty I think it had contained flames. This inlet is over the water and requires sitting on the port gunnel and holding a grabrail with one hand while connecting power with the other hand on a good day, and on a bad day (as this one was quickly turning out to be) I dreaded dissecting the guts of this 110v inlet and dropping Important Parts in the water. Should we go back home and get the truck and trailer and haul out?
My power inlet strain relief was clamped hard on an insulated wire section with no room to wiggle. The line inside the cabinet to the AC distribution panel was flush against the wall and cable tied every 18 inches and not subject to vibration or movement or touching anything. Well, we did the dissection over the water and found only the white wire burned about 1 inch total from the connection and a very loose and burned blade to wire screw. I'm very much more OC than the typical boater, but I do not 'wiggle' the boatside 110v inlet prongs. Do you? When you mate the shorepower connection with a 45 degree twist, you would never know that a blade is 'loose'.
So I sez to myself, I sez, "Myself, could just a loose blade connection do this? There was no sign of charring 2 weeks ago and there’s no significant wakes or rolling or movement in the marina. Makes sense that the AC panel would interpret 120v AC potential between the AC hot and green safety ground wires as a ‘Reverse Polarity’ fault. Are you going to let this AC electrical problem interfere with your boating today when we could go to West Marine and buy and replace a new AC inlet connection wiring module if they have one and a new 50' shorepower cord?”
... and Myself sez, "no way, lets wing it." Eileen agreed, so we did. Took several hours and several gallons of sweat and some tools (like a tiny Phillips) I never thought I’d use. We didn't drop any Really Important Parts and only a couple of Important Parts in the water.
So we replaced as above and verified there were no warm wires or any other signs of AC trouble and the Blue Seas AC distribution panel lit up happily and the house battery started charging and the air conditioner worked so we disconnected and set out to a favorite barrier island for a nice long beach walk.
We like to anchor off stretches of Gulf Islands National Seashore and go hiking for several hours in areas where there are no boats and no people in sight for miles. There have been no reports of theft of boats/items that I know of, but I still think leaving a nice boat or nice car with the windows and doors open with my wallet (and passwords) and credit cards on the seat and the boat keys in the ignition and Genesis 5.0 key fobs ($400 each to replace, according to our dealer) on a public road or waterway is an invitation to The Kind Of Trouble I Do Not Need. Our concern at this point in our lives is avoiding issues that ruin a whole boating day or weekend or season. If some casual thief stole our ID and credit cards and drivers license and passwords it would mean countless days on the phone and standing in long lines. It’s just not a viable option to close all the boat windows and lock the door in Florida in August at 95 degrees with 85% humidity in 85 degree water. Besides, you could jigger the door open with a screwdriver while doing $1000 worth of damage to the DSG door and jamb. We keep the doors and windows open while we’re gone with a WalMart magnetic insect screen on the door.
Our solution to this existential problem, after considering the many options, is a cheap electronic 4-digit code safe (similar to hotel rooms), secured with a 1/8" cable to a 2.5" rigging tube. The manual claims it gives over 30 days warning with a red LED blinking to warn of weak batteries prior to the AA batteries getting too weak to retract the steel bars that lock the unit. That has never happened, and we use it many times every weekend during the boating season. We have a manual bypass key in case the batteries get weak, but we never got around to bringing the key to the boat, since it would never be needed (do you see where this is going?). We replace all 1.5v batteries on the boat with new ones at the start of every season. When I removed them last Nov they tested almost good as new, and went in the Non-Critical Applications Used Battery Box (NCAUBB for you Navy types).
Well, the safe wouldn't open when we were finally ready to head home around dinner time after such a late start, and the boat ignition keys and my car keys/wallet/money/cell phones were in there too. (Thank goodness I forgot to throw Eileen’s car keys in there when we went on our walk). Some little electronic part in it had the microprocessor equivalent of a nervous breakdown while we were out hiking...perhaps a tiny 1.5v heat stroke. It gave the 'I demand a reset' code (yellow LED blink with any button push and no beep). Unfortunately, this reset can only be done with the safe door OPEN while pushing an interior reset tab flush behind the keypad. The most destructive tool I keep on board (other than me) is a short handle hammer, but we doubted we could pry the door open with that. I was PRETTY (70%) sure I’d put the bypass key in my bag in the car months ago. We could call a cab, if we had a phone, but no cab is going to take two sweaty beach bums with no money on base with no ID. We scratched our heads and thunk about options a while and I finally came around to Eileen’s suggestion to call Sea Tow, get towed back to the NAS marina and hope the bypass key was in the car, using her set of car keys to open it. July marked 30 years of marriage for us and 30 continuous years of Sea-Tow membership, during which we’ve never ever called Sea-Tow for help. I really dreaded making that call (“What seems to be the problem?” “I can’t start my engines. That’s all you need to know for now. Other Florida boat drivers will be listening on this VHF channel and I don’t want them to choke on their beer and have an accident.”)
Capt Keith was very understanding. I asked if there was some point under the cowling where I could short something with a screwdriver in a shower of sparks to start the engines, but he said ‘No, no, no, no, not that I know of.’ (Don’t ask how I know about this technique). He did NOT say, “let me get this straight…you want me to come and get you with nothing wrong with your boat and nothing wrong with your engines, you idiot? Did you read the friggin’ contract? Does it say we tow idiots in functioning boats?”
He showed up in under his 45 minute estimate in a 20 foot yellow Twin Vee cat with twin 175 hp Suzis (AAARGGGGHHH!! The SHAME!!!), hooked his tow line to the bow eye (I know you were wondering) and towed us back at 9.1 to 9.8 MPH with both drives full down. He switched to a hip tow in the marina and even nudged us stern to into our slip with some really fancy piling pivoting at sundown without touching the big Doral cruiser next to us. “Nice heavy boat,” he observed, “tows real well. I don’t tow too many like this.” (I’m glad the Doral skipper, a retired 3 star Admiral who flew Tom Cats, had left for the day. No need for him to ever know. Bryant, if you promise not to tell him I'll buy you a couple of 12 packs).
We hooked up the brand new shorepower cord to the brand new AC inlet and got the RV roof AC going and Eileen found the safe bypass key in the car. I reset the safe 4 digit combo and it worked flawlessly, over and over and over and over. The 4 AA batteries all tested good as new.
What are the odds of a critical 110v AC and a 1.5v DC failure both severe enough to ruin your boating day BOTH occurring on the SAME day? Although I kick myself for not having the bypass key on the boat, I am firmly convinced that if I DID have it, it would have broken off in the lock. Or something. Some days are just like that.
I sure hope no one took pictures of our shameful tow to post on the Twin Vee owners’ forum. Or sells them to Twin Vee or Suzuki to use in a full page ad in the boating magazines. If so, let me know how much money you want for them.
I’m going to ask Sea-Tow to add to their FAQ section on their website:
“Will you tow Members for free if there is nothing wrong with my boat or engines?”
To my knowledge, no other TC 255 has ever had to call for a tow to get home, with all its’ reliable and redundant features. I’m an outlier! And no, I do not fill my port/starboard tanks with gas from different gas stations like some of you do. (I do only feed them ethanol-free gas + Star-Tron + Yamaha Ring-Free).
I’ve never been so embarrassed, except when I ran her up on a well-charted mud bar at last years Apalachicola C-D Gulf Coast Gathering in front of a restaurant/bar full of boaters with cameras. (But that's another story).
The best part is, we’ve never burned so little gas getting to that beach and back!
If you’ve had a weirder boating day, let’s hear about it!
Cheers!
John
P.S. On searching the forum, Rogerbum has a Feb 2013 picture of his burned Marinco power inlet just like mine, with Reverse Polarity fault just like mine. I don't know whether you should 'wiggle' your blades to make sure they're not loose, or avoid 'wiggling' them so you don't MAKE them loose. I guess one compromise is to dis-assemble the inlet in your off season and really tighten down the screw/wire-clamp connection. I still don't have a reasonable explanation of how my connection could loosen, or how it could go from 'bright silver clear' to 'burned and black' in 2 weeks with no movement. In any event, I'll change over to a Smartplug inlet in the off season.

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The most common cause of fires on small boats is this Marinco connector! The smart plug is the way to go.
http://www.smartplug.com/products/cordsets.html
I have replaced many of these on my boats. Always double check them for tightness, and being secure. But there is still a design flaw.

Glad the day work out in the end. We have never felt the need for a safe on the smaller boats. Very large cruising boats, we had about a 1 cubic foot steel combination lock safe fiberglassed into the side of the hull in hidden places. Taken a manual key for the door lock, and either a water proof bag for the wallet, if necessary, or hid it. Always leave the keys in the boat. I think the the chance of some good samaritan having to relocate the boat from a nearby fire, flooding, or dragging anchor, overweighs the possibility of theft of the boat.

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Thataway
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Hunkydory



Joined: 28 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,

I enjoyed your write up even if it was a rough day for you. Your problem with the shore power plug & Bob's comment was enough to have me heading out to check my Marinco connector tonight. Sure enough one of the pins is very loose, so ordered a replacement smart plug tonight & will have it in before heading to Yellowstone next week.

Jay

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Ray



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The failure mode you describe with your shore power is typical of a salt-water environment connection.

What usually happens is that the blades on the connector get some corrosion on them and the contact resistance increases. Over time, this resistance increases more and more which generates heat when a current is drawn across them. This heat can build up (depending on the loads on the boat at the time) and cause the wires to burn, and in some cases cause a fire.

The heat is likely what caused your "loose" blade as the surrounding plastic melted/softened.

DILIGENCE about keeping the contacts on both sides (cable and inlet) free from corrosion is the best way to prevent this type of thing. One good preventive measure is to use "bulb grease" or similar electrical anti-corrosion/anti-oxidant on the contacts regularly. Wal-mart has a very small tube that goes a long way for $0.39 or something.

While the smartplug may be a better inlet, I don't think it would be totally immune to this problem, especially as your cable end may still be exposed to salt air a lot of the time and is subject to corrosion.

..don't ask me how I learned all this. Embarassed

PS - it is entirely likely that something similar happened to your AA batteries - the battery contacts in the battery holder that device are likely not made for the marine environment. A small amount corrosion blocking the current -- and when you removed and re-inserted them, scraped off the contact area. A teeny bit of anti-oxidant here, too? Just a thought. Wink
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Will-C



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 7:48 am    Post subject: Tough Tom Cat 255 Boating Day Ends with Sea-Tow Reply with quote

What's really great for me is that you wrote about your dilemmas. For me you safe story was another reason we hide things of value in our butane stove's fuel canister area. Since we never use it any more no key required. We also keep a key hidden for the boats back door in the cockpit area to avoid any unnecessary calls to the locksmith. Plus if we are away from the boat we can direct someone who needs access to the boat for what ever reason to the key should we be miles away and something crazy happens. The thing I like best about the Smart Plug is that the socket has a thermal overload which opens the circuit if it senses excessive heat. We never apply power until both ends of the power cord are connected then we flip the breaker. Only then do we start turning on any electrical loads such as A.C. battery chargers etc. Some marina's have rules about unattended boats leaving shore power on just for reasons you describe, fires. Better days are coming. Getting towed is such a shameful experience not matter what the cause might be. Safe Travels
D.D.

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JamesTXSD



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It happens...



Sounds like you dealt with it the best way possible. I understand "the walk of shame". Wink Wasn't our boat... company boat.

It's an adventure.

Best wishes,
Jim B.
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rogerbum



Joined: 21 Nov 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad it all worked out OK in the end but what a day! I think my cable went bad due to saltwater corrosion and I'm glad I replaced it with the Smart Plug. When (and if) you do, I'd advise that you spring the extra $'s for the factory made cable with the molded in strain relief. Initially, I took my old Marinco cable and replaced the female (boat) end with a Smart Plug end. The strain relief in this broke after about 1 year and I wound up buying a new cable anyway. Also, on the 12V DC to the fridge, I'd recommend you install a switch that you use to disconnect the 12V from the fridge when you're on shore power. The PO of my boat installed one for just the scenario you describe. Of course you have to remember to switch the 12V back on when you disconnect from shore power, but we haven't forgot that yet.
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Hunkydory



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went went with the factory Shore Power 30 amp cord as Roger advised & chose the 25 foot over the 50 foot. Our present Marinco 30 amp cord is 50 feet & to big & bulky to take on a cruise, so we have only used it here at home. Our set up on a trip has been two adapters, one out of the boat connection to a heavy duty 15 amp cord & the other from the end of that cord to the shore connection. We carried an additional 25 foot 15 amp cord, but only have had to use it 3 times in 12 seasons of cruising. The adapters I described will now work for going from the Shore Power cord to our on board Honda generator & the 25 foot 15 amp extension if needed for shore connection.

Jay
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Chuckpacific



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I arrived at Big Sky last January to find the Marinco shore power connector, as well as the end of the connecting power cord, all black and crusty. I remembered that the prongs had been loose. Fortunately was able to replace the connector and replaced the cord with the Marinco Eel which I am happy with.
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Robert H. Wilkinson



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, interesting, well written story! Thanks for sharing. Calling for a tow is almost as bad as making a guy ask for directions - most would rather drive around lost for hours! Laughing 3 years ago after a very rough 7 hour trip on Lake Erie I ran out of gas within about a half mile of the entrance to our marina. I called the marina to ask if they could bring us some gas. They said to call the Coast Guard. Now I know he couldn't see me over the radio- on my knees begging,, but I asked him if there was anybody he knew around the marina with a small boat that I could pay to bring me some gas. He got back to me about 10 minutes later saying a guy was on his way with a can of gas. I was very glad to dodge the bullet and get back in on our own power!

Last week we rented a slip for a few days and I was rather disturbed at the number of electrical hazards I noticed. Between the hard and slip 67 which we were in I counted 3 boats that had their shore power cord drooping and running under the water. On the Sunday I counted 3 other slips where the boat was out for the day and the shore power cord neatly coiled up on the dock - with the male end still plugged into the pedestal. As far as I know there is no breaker on the pedestal that disconnects power to it. Not a far fetch to imagine it getting accidentally kicked into the water.

Regards, Rob

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redbaronace



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fisheries is selling the Smart Plug and Boat Recepticle for $149.95 right now.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/sitesearch.aspx?keyword=smart%20plug

Just in case someone was looking at doing this update to their systems.
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localboy



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JamesTXSD wrote
Quote:
"It happens..."


Yes..yes it does....sometimes even your totally restored classic has a bad day when leaving a VW show....


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

redbaronace wrote:
Fisheries is selling the Smart Plug and Boat Recepticle for $149.95 right now.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/sitesearch.aspx?keyword=smart%20plug

Just in case someone was looking at doing this update to their systems.


FS send an email today that smart plugs are on sale for 25% off


ask them to send me their big catalog

Thumbs Up

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gulfcoast john



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to all, starting with Dr. Bob for local knowledge and the Smartplug link.
And Redbaronance/Bret for the Fisheries 25% Smartplug discount over the cheapest price I could find! I bought the inlet and 2 25 ft and 2 50 ft cordsets.
I have implemented every posted advice except I don't think the Marinco EEL is equal in contact area at boat inlet (20% less than Smartplug). Also, Rogerbum, I'll just shut off the House and Engine DC panel distribution switches when leaving rather than install a 12v fridge cutout switch for now. My (first Triton) 255 was rigged with both float switch bilge pumps on 24h with 2 'bilge pump' LED's on the DC panel reflecting that. The only downside I see is that I'm not sure whether the AC battery charger is charging the 3 batteries when that DC panel switch is 'Off'.

Should every small boat owner replace the problematic Marinco standard boat inlet with the Smartplug inlet at the previously never-seen 25% discount offered? (you have to Add To Cart to see the discounted price).
You Bet! You can afford $148 for this replacement shorepower upgrade. Just show your Admiral my pictures of the burned connections (in my album...I'm trying to learn to post pictures, but I am not the sharpest crayon in this particular box). If your Admiral is like mine, I can buy anything if it's Safety Related. And, By George, it really is!
Granted, the dock pedestal connection is not addressed by this solution, and remains the Weak Link, but as previously pointed out, that's not my issue/my boat on fire/my insurance hassle. This is the reason I never converted to the Smartplug previously, I was concerned about The Weak Link, rather than making sure the Weak Link was Away From My Boat.
Check my album pictures...really scared me, I think there were flames in the strain relief container (no pic, but really blackened/sooty) before the the wire clamp connection burned down to just a few strands (enough to light up the REVERSE POLARITY warning LED but not enough to continue running the air conditioner).
I have no financial or other interest in the SmarPlug company. It won the Innovation Product of the Year 2011 for a good reason.

Happy Boating!
John
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BrentB



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if the next generation plug will the ones used to charge electric car
[/img]
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