Do I Need Trailer Brakes?

mangobob · Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 6:45 pm Post subject: Do I Need Trailer Brakes?

I will be towing my CD 16 Cruiser (1700# w. trailer) with a 2012 Toyota FJ Cruiser from Vancouver Island, Canada, to Texas twice a year, a distance of about 2,500 miles each way. The FJ has a towing capacity of 5,000 lbs. according to the manual. I have a 2006 EZ Loader trailer that's in solid condition. I'm a bit concerned about towing the boat with my relatively short wheelbase FJ (108"), and I wonder if any C-Brats can advise me whether I should keep the existing trailer and use it as is (no brakes), add surge or other brakes to the existing trailer or start all over with a new trailer with or without brakes. I'd like to be safe. Any thoughts would be very much appreciated. Bruce

thataway · Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 7:09 pm Post subject:

First you have the canadian rules:

Gross trailer weight of 1,400 kg (3,080 Ibs) or less – Brakes are required if the trailer and its load weigh more than 50% of the licensed weight of the vehicle towing it.

In the US, going thru WA, OR UT, AZ, NM, and TX, you are OK with that size trailer and no brakes.

However, with a relitatively small tow vehicle, I would put trailer brakes on what you have. I tow about the same size trailer with my 18 foot Caracal--but tow it with a 36,000 lb RV or a Yukon XL--but I do notice it with both of the vehicles, and if any more than I would probably put brakes on.

Spike · Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:56 pm Post subject:

Bruce
Years ago I towed my first boat, a 19' IO cuddy all around with an old Toyota FJ 40 did not have trailer brakes, get brakes they will help a lot. Also your concerns about the short wheel base are justified. Just be careful and you will be fine. Backing the trailer was a mother bear but it can be done. Sure wish I would have kept that old Toyota. Great little vehicle

mangobob · Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:34 pm Post subject:

Thank you thataway & Spike. I will look into trailer brakes tomorrow. I wonder if it's reasonable to put brakes on an eight-year-old trailer, or if I'd be better to just start over with a new trailer. Would you guys recommend surge brake or another kind? Bruce

thataway · Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:17 pm Post subject:

For that size boat and trailer, the surge brakes are fine. I would recommend disc, with a solenoid lock out for backing--attached to the reverse lights.

There are videos on the internet showing the procedure of installation. You should be able to get a "kit" with coupler, all of the brake parts, solenoid valve, and brake lines for $500. A new trailer is going to be considerably more.

Also you want to be sure that your trailer tires are less than 5 years old--6 at the outside.

Take appropriate jacks, tools for dismounting a wheel, spare wheel and tire, extra wheel bearings, and I have also carried an extra hub, with the wheel bolted on for longer trips.

I repack (renew) all of the wheel bearing grease before each long trip.

williwaw · Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:56 pm Post subject:

Just a heads-up that EZ Loader sometimes uses axles on their lightweight trailers that don't accept the typical disc upgrade packages. I once ran into this and as I recall it had something to do with a problem mounting the caliper bracket.

I know they have several models that cover various weight categories so with luck you might have an upgradeable trailer. Be sure to have the exact model number etc. when calling EZ Loader.

Sunbeam · Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:08 am Post subject:

I added brakes to my 2002 trailer when it was ten years old - was totally doable and appropriate. I see above where someone said to check if they can be added to your trailer, but I mean in general I felt it was better than buying a new trailer.

My trailer is a tandem (22 Cruiser) and it came to me with drum brakes on one axle, no brakes on the other axle, and a totally un-usable brake actuator. The trailer also needed quite a few other things in order to be the cross-country hauler I wanted. So I considered a new trailer. But I decided to fix mine instead. It worked out that I was able to do all the upgrades (many!) for less than a new trailer; but in addition, many of the components I installed were better/different than I would have gotten stock on a new trailer. So I was happy with the outcome in that way.

In my case, for the brakes, I added Kodiak disc brakes to both axles, with new lines (the flexible hose type), and a new surge actuator (with reverse lockout solenoid). I'm very happy with them. The axle on my trailer that had not had brakes originally did have the square plates that the brakes mount to, so that was nice.

Of course there is nothing wrong with buying a new trailer either, but adding brakes to an older trailer is at least something worth checking into.

Sunbeam

mangobob · Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:10 am Post subject:

Wow! Thank you all for the wealth of information. It will take me a while to check the internet and digest your comments and suggestions. All of my tools are in Texas, so it's going to be difficult to do the install myself here in Canada. I'll see if I can get someone locally to install the brakes. But after reading all of the comments, I'm definitely getting trailer brakes for the long haul to Texas. Bruce

'o cino · Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:56 am Post subject:

Along with the brakes (at least surge, but SS disc if you are flush with money), a distribution load hitch will work wonders in control and ride. I have an Xterra (5000lb 500lb tongue limit), that's also short in wheelbase, and DL definitely helps, seems like especially when going down long grades.

T.R. Bauer · Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 12:50 pm Post subject:

I guess I am the lone wolf. While I don't think you will ever regret putting brakes on it, I don't think you need them at all. I don't think you will even know 1700 pounds is even there. Most of the guys commenting have a 22 or larger. The 16 is really light and I have pulled lots of small boats like yours (used to have a 16 foot Bayliner) that didn't have brakes with absolutely no issues. Even my old 82 toyota 4x4 pickup would perform the duty just fine and it isn't nearly the tow vehicle your rig is. No arguing it will be better with brakes for sure, but not really certain you actually need them.

Sunbeam · Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:18 pm Post subject:

JamesTXSD · Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:25 pm Post subject:

Not a lone wolf, T.R. - I was thinking the same thing. We hauled a small sailboat (Com-Pac SunCat, 17.5') behind a one ton Class B van (8,400 pound tow rating); no trailer brakes. Around 1,500 lbs on the trailer. VERY easy to tow and stop. All of our other trailerable boats have been considerably heavier than that, and always had trailer brakes.

If the tow vehicle can easily handle the weight for towing and stopping, an extra "system" is just one more maintenance item. Certainly, trailer brakes are not a detriment on a small load, but not always necessary. Anything over 2,000 pounds, I would consider the trailer brakes a must.

A small boat is the ultimate "keeping it simple" conveyance, since the boat will also have limited load capacity. As with all things boating, it's a compromise. I don't recommend compromising where safety is concerned, but I would have to see some facts to support brakes on a light trailer load making a significant difference... I could be swayed.

Jim

mangobob · Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 4:22 pm Post subject: Lots to Think About...

I appreciate all of the input, and I thank each of you for giving me a great deal to think about. I'm humbled by the thoughtful responses. Thank you. Bruce

thataway · Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:26 pm Post subject:

I am going to have to disagree with the lack of need for trailer brakes on the 1700 # (probably minimal wt) trailered load.

The Toyota JF is known for poor braking for example comparison to a Mustang:

"braking distance at 60mph Ford Mustang 104 ft vs FJ Cruiser 138 ft The Mustang GT has extraordinary brakes, but the FJ Cruiser is quite bad." From a comparison test.

There are other critiques (and I am not knocking the vehicle), which suggest that the FJ cruiser is not the best of handling vehicles.

The FJ cruiser weight is listed at 4090#, the 1700/# trailer is 41.5% of the weight of the FJ Cruiser. You have an extra 1700 lbs of momentum pushing a vehicle which already has limited braking capacity. Since Mass x Velocity squared, velocity is the same, but the stopping distance will increase by 41.5%! That is a bunch. Take the example above; the stopping distance will increase to 195 feet--almost twice the stopping distance of the Ford Mustang…! In normal prudent driving, maybe not an issue--but in a forced emergency stop--can be very significant.

There are some comments on other forums, about the effect of a trailer which weighs 25% of the weight of the tow vehicle, and recommend brakes.

Remember I regularly tow a 1800 lb load, 18 foot CC boat,(probably a bit more than that weight with fuel etc) behind a large SUV (weight over 6000 lbs) or an RV, (weight on the scales today was just over 32,000 lbs), and I do notice the difference braking with and without the trailer.

colbysmith · Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:37 pm Post subject:

Not aware of the state laws regarding brakes, but speaking just on the brakes them selves, your boat and trailer combo sound like they are probably light enough not to worry. However, I also agree you'd never regret putting brakes on. And I'm going to go against the tide here, but if you are retrofitting your trailer, I think you will find the cheapest and easiest retrofit would to just go completely electric. I have replaced two surge units with electric, and that is all that I run on my trailers. (I'll admit I don't launch in salt, but do put up with the road salt of midwest winters...) However, you would need to add an electric control unit to your tow vehicle, but also not all that expensive, assuming you do it yourself. If you're trailer/boat combo is less than 2000 lbs, I just can't see spending any more than necessary, and it's not like that is a lot of weight to stop. But brakes on the trailer would help conserve the auto brakes! You should be able to retrofit to electric for less than $150/wheel, and a controller unit could be found for under $100. Colby