East Coast Docking Techniques

[RobMcClain]

We have always boated on the West Coast where the docks are floating and the fingers run the full boat length. Since we've been puttering up the East Coast we've found many fixed docks with finger lengths as short as 4 feet. And often one finger serves two boats. So on one side you have the short finger while on the other you are right next to a boat.

Boats at these docks are always sterned in with bow lines around pilings that are set well forward from the end of the fingers, perhaps by 25 feet or more. I can see how beamy 35' boats in these slips can get the bow lines over the pilings, but how do you do it in a narrow 22' or 23' boat? And how when you have a 20 knot wind blowing on the beam? We have run into this situation a few times and have yet to comfortably figure it out. Any thoughts, techniques, tricks, tips, things not to do....., etc, would be appreciated. It's clear we have a lot to learn in order to more professionally dock in these environments. Thanks for all feedback...

Rob

[Pat Anderson]

I'll be anxious to hear the answers you get too...that was a difficult part of our otherwise wonderful time on the Chesapeake in 2005.

[Sunbeam]

I'm reading with interest, too! I'm not from the east coast, and at one point in time a friend and I delivered a small sailboat from Point A to Point B on the Chesapeake -- the owner had to leave the boat and get back to work before he got all the way home due to weather delays. He mentioned the difficulty in getting into the slip at Point A because it was "so large." Not that I didn't believe him, but it sounded interesting... usually it's tougher when they are too small! (None of the three of us were from the area.)

Well, I found out when I got there. It was just as you describe, with the one tiny finger, and the boat stern to with a huge, high-sided houseboatey thing on the non-finger side. Then port and starboard bow pilings waaaaaay forward and very far apart. Trying to get out of there was a handful, mostly because of those pilings. I can no longer remember the details, but I guess maybe the lines weren't slipped (?). Or maybe they were and it was still just darned tricky due to the friction or just the general setup. We muddled through but it wasn't pretty! I was very glad to wave good-bye to that slip, but would be interested to hear how folks handle them more gracefully.

[Captains Cat]

I've always found that, if the configuration is as you described it, to back in, get the stern tied up (with long mooring lines), then go ahead slowly until you can get the bow out and get it close enough to the forward pilings. A boat hook is useful here if they are tall. With current and wind, it's a lot more difficult. The boat hook is useful also to keep you away from nearby boats during this process.

The short fingers can be very tricky if your balance is not good! We only have a couple of feet of tide as long as you're not up North. There, you'll usually find floating piers.

Charlie

[Will-C]

Depending on wind and current we usually back and if the marina or another boater is around we usually get a line on the up wind or up current piling first then something on the stern using a long boat hook to the finger dock or a cleat on the dock. We try to loop the rope around the front pilings one at a time. We usually try to put the loop in the line on the cleat and just go around the piling so when you leave you can just untie the other end from the boat and pull the line free of the piling. After things get settled adjust all the lines criss cross the lines on the stern. If you are going to be coming and going run a line on the starboard side of the boat from a dock cleat to the piling. That way you can reach out the window and pull yourself and the boat back into position and hold while the line handler does their thing. Some folks also will fashion a pieces of schedule 40 2" or 2 1/2" PVC pipe that can span the distance in between your two fenders and then some. Drill holes thru the pipe about a foot from either end and knot the lines on either side of the pipe. These are tied off to your roof rails set the length to be half way on the outside of your fenders. This will act as a continuous fender to keep pesky pilings off you gel coat. Most just leave them tied in place on the roof so deploying them is easy. Velcro straps can be used to keep them from flying off or bungy cords.This also works when going thru a lot of locks it keeps your fenders from turning into dirt or slime bags.
D.D.

[Jake]

Reminds me of HGTV show last Sunday in Florida keys where they had docks with no fingers, just some lines running from the pilings to the dock to separate slips. And all the boats were docked bow in. I don't know, guess they were good at jumping from the bow to the dock and back.

Jake

[Will-C]

For me if there is a cross wind or cross current and your boat is shorter than the space from the dock to the pilings I would be glad to have those lines there while we get the stern tied off to the pilings and the bow secured.
D.D.

[Foggy]

If all the above seems impossible or doesn't work, there's the PITA method.

Secure your boat temporarily in the slip as best you can. No matter it doesn't
look pretty now.

Board your dinghy and complete the long unreachable piling(s) encircling the
piling once keeping both ends of the line on your boat when finished. Adjust
your long lines from the boat to properly place your boat in the slip. Retrieve
them from onboard when leaving.

Aye.

[thataway]

I believe what Wil-C is trying to describe is called a "fender board"--if I miss-understand--my apology in advance.

We make ours out of wood. We carry several 3 to 4 foot lengths of 2"x4" (in larger boats we used 4 x 4 or 2 x 6). There fendering material which can be put on the boat side of these boards. They are used to allow the boat to lay against rough pilings or docks. We have used them extensively. You drill one hole in the center of the 4" width, and hang these from the railings act with 3/16 or 1/4" line. You can back them with fenders on the boat side.


Fender board bumpers:


We also carry long inflatable finders for temporary use--for any length the abrasion might be too much. These take little room when deflated. This is just a sample, not the brand we use:





We are not always happy to go stern too, because on occasion this does put the outboard motor in jeopardy. With a cross wind, always tie up to the windward piling first, as you go in. Bow in is often better with the cross wind. Use your judgement as to what is the best way to get into one of these slips. If we go Bow in, we will put the lines on these pilings as we go in. Stern in, also put the lines on the pilings on the way in--Windward first. There are several ways to get the line over or around the piling--the hug method, allowing the boat with a fender board or fender to rest against the piling--then lay out plenty of slack and work the boat with a boat hook or engine to the opposite side. There are also devices which help with this which affix to the end of the boat hook.

Such as the Landing Loop:


Ours is similar, but has SS wires about 15" long to hold the loop open, which will fold back into a SS plate which is clamped to a boat hook.

Another is the Shurhold Dock dock line holding tool:


Some can do this with a big loop and just the "three in one boat hook" on an adjustable 8 foot pole:




Those from Montana and Wyoming have their own technique. Don't laugh, we have lassoed a number of pilings, Keep in mind a Lasso is much stiffer than a normal mooring line. But you can often toss a large loop over a piling.



Don't forget to put a spring line on each piling--for many of the high docks you will need this. After your outer pilings are secured, pay out the lines, until you can get a person on the dock--have a fender handy, and lay to the dock until all secure.

Reverse the procedure when leaving--undo the windward end last. Some times it is best to have long lines back to the boat--other times, it is better with a spliced eye and loop, or large bowline.

[redbaronace]

After reading all this, I realize that we certainly have it good in the Puget Sound.

Our worst docks are probably easier than this.

[colobear]

Would someone please post pictures of these docks. I am having a hard time visualizing the necessary steps or how far away the pilings are, etc. etc. Thanks.

[Sunbeam]

[colobear]

Thanks Sunbeam. That helps some. I'm wondering how people singlehand with this arrangement. Looks like there would be lots of quick acrobatics and colorful language involved.

[thataway]

Here is a photo of Panama City Marina docks--These are for smaller boats like the C Dory, so not too bad.



There will be two boats for each space--between the two docks. There are Three pilings on each side the boat can tie to. The outer , the ones at the end of dock, (and in the middle between two boats) and one on each side of the boat at the sea wall. There is very little tide here, so fixed docks work well.

If you notice that the power boat in the first photo is not all of the way back because of his I/O drive. Many sailboats do bow in--because it is too shoal for the keel and rudder:

[Aurelia]

Makes me wonder why Marine Trade associations don't have an active floating dock initiative. How many fewer Ranger tugs would be sold locally to new boaters if that was the situation when they reached a marina. Thrusters help but just the added line handling would make many people just by an RV instead. Maybe thats good or bad but we do have it nice around here thanks to the tides.

Like the paper charts of docking.....

"There are two reasons why fixed
docks continue to be popular in these
areas. One is their long history as the
dominant docking system for both
recreational and commercial boats–a
period spanning hundreds of years. The
other is the abundant supply of southern
yellow pine."

Some reading: http://www.dissen-juhn.com/in-the-news/Marina%20Dock%20Age%20Article%20by%20GW%200605.pdf