Lewmar 700 Pro (horizontal) windlass install note (hole cut)

Sunbeam

I'm in the process of installing (or rather "planning") a Lewmar 700 Pro (horizontal) windlass. Although, I tell you, after lugging that thing up to the foredeck and looking at how big it is, how clean the foredeck is now, etc.... I had second thoughts! But I just have to think back to Jay (Hunky Dory) anchoring his boat by standing back with a remote control in hand and then I "re-want" it Mr. Green

Anyway, after laying out all the parts and pieces, I came up with a question: The installation manual calls for a 3" round hole (for the "deck pipe" portion), but the hole in the bottom of the windlass -- and the gasket -- is a smaller oval. I borrowed the first two photos from Voyager's excellent album:

The hole they call for:

The shape of the gasket, which mirrors this template, and also the actual "hole" in the windlass bottom:

This is the bottom of the windlass:

If you use the 3" round hole, then a section of the gasket and that round plate will have nothing but air beneath them. Probably not a real issue, but since I don't have a 3" hole saw on hand, and could easily make a smaller, oval hole, I wondered. I couldn't see any downside (the chain seems to drop straight down, but I would probably make the oval slightly wider than that oval opening anyway*), but figured I didn't want to cause an "I must be smarter than they are" problem. My best guess was they were trying to make the hole drilling "easier."

So I put in a call to Lewmar last week. They called back today, and I asked them about it. They said that people had found it more complicated (more tools needed) to make an oval hole, and so when they slightly re-designed some of their windlasses, they decided to make them all work with one, 3" hole. All the same, all "easy."

So that answered my question. I'm going to go with an oval hole, because it's of about equal difficulty for me, and because I will like it slightly better without the "extra" hole under that plate (not sure yet if I will use the gasket or sealant -- usually I quickly toss the gasket and use good sealant, but it is a very nice gasket, so haven't decided yet).

*I did look at another C-Dory with the older windlass that required the smaller, oval hole. I wanted to see how likely the chain would be to "flare out" to the sides and possibly require a slightly wider hole. It seemed to want to drop straight down, and there was no evidence of scuffing on the side of the hole. I may add a bit of extra space anyway.

Sunbeam

thataway · Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:45 pm Post subject:

I have not posted my photos of the winch install, but I use the oval, or rounded end square to be more precise. It is easy if you have the proper knowledge and tools. I did rout out the core, filled with thickened epoxy--no sign of chain slapping when we put the chain in.

I made a copy of the templet on very heavy paper to make a better templet.

I also drilled individual holes for the wires, rather than one large hole.

I ground down the non skid, and then leveled this with a thickened epoxy to make the deck area where the gasket fits level and fair for a tight seal. I used Boat life, life seal under and around the seals.

Sunbeam · Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:55 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the notes, Bob. I'm thinking I'll use a smaller hole saw at each end, then connect with a jig saw; but I do have a few other tools along if needed (although ironically, no 3" hole saw).

I do plan to take down the non-skid, and also to remove all the surrounding core and replace with thickened epoxy, plus a backing plate on the inside. It's nice to hear how you did it to confirm, thanks.

Good to know the chain doesn't tend to "flare out" and need the larger hole.

Sunbeam

PS: What did you do on the inside for backing?

jkidd · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 8:58 am Post subject:

Been thinking of adding the wireless to mine. It's really nice not to have to haul the anchor up by hand. To be able to control it from the bow or shore would be great.

thataway · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:25 am Post subject:

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:54 am Post subject:

Sunbeam · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 1:01 pm Post subject:

BrentB · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 1:22 pm Post subject:

maybe add a terminal strip (board)
useful for troubleshooting and part repalcement down the road

Sunbeam · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 2:02 pm Post subject:

jkidd · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 2:36 pm Post subject:

I haven't seen the receiver part yet but I would guess 1 hot wire, 1 negative wire, 1 for up, and 1 for down. I can parallel them all off the back of my estop and up down switch. Should be easy. Adding the extra terminal would be nice but it will also make more places for things to go wrong. Joe when I installed mine I replaced the switch with the contactor so in the future I could add more switches like you said. I single hand the boat so it would be nice to put the bow on the shore jump off and pay out the anchor set it and tighten thing up from the shore. Maybe I'm being a little lazy but I'm ok with that if it is going to save some time in the wind.

BrentB · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 2:46 pm Post subject:

Are you using their relay and wireless module?

That looks like the way to go!

jkidd · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 2:58 pm Post subject:

thataway · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 3:12 pm Post subject:

The wiring is very simple--and basically the same as the up and down switch--there is a PDF diagram (first diagram) which shows the positive in red, which may make it simpler:

http://www.lewmar.com/assets/img/dataset/Manual_3%20and%205%20button%20wiring%20diagrams.pdf

Using a 4 point terminal block would be appropriate, and keep form using spade connection doublers on the contractor.

Cost of the remote receiver and fob is $275 to $360, depending on source.

I can see where it might be handy going stern too at Powell. Of course that depends on the beach--or lack of a beach. Hopefully no one around has a device which operates on the same frequency…(There is an "on" button on the fob). I would invasion using a wired remote as Joe suggested-- Our technique is to let out the right amount of rode, then go fast astern, and pull the motor up, hopefully the anchor line coming tight with the stern about 2 feet from the beach waterline…(Anchor is set first).

BrentB · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 3:14 pm Post subject:

Is the faceplacte metal or plastic?

Plastic degrades over time and wish Lewmar used metal

Sunbeam · Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 4:03 pm Post subject:

Thataway: Thanks for the additional info on your install. I can understand exactly why you used fender washers, and I agree they will be fine. I did notice on my stock bow pulpit that some of the fender washers had dug into the gelcoat on the overhead, but I attribute this to tightening them against balsa core, whereas you have firm epoxy fill behind yours, and so they are not "crushable."

I'll probably go with a backing block, because I can and have the material on hand, but I'm sure it's overkill. Plus, unless you tie it into the topsides (which would be complete overkill on a boat our size), it's all just the same deck anyway. The load is spread with a block, but not to any additional component.