Anchor Trip Line

bridma · Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 11:17 pm Post subject: Anchor Trip Line

There are two kind of trip lines that I use, or will use. One a freestanding float with about 60' of line tied to the anchor. The other, Dr Bobs favourite, lowering a chain bracelet down the line to slide over the anchor shank.
The first one I would set up if it is known that I will be anchoring in an iffy area. The second one I would use if I get caught out unexpectedly.
I need to replace my trip lines. What type of rope should I use? Any suggestions?

Martin.

Barry Rietz · Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:24 am Post subject: Trip Lines

Martin, If your speaking of "stuck anchor retrieval" the tight twist variety of "3-strand" in 1/2 inch diameter is best. It would resist "abrasion and chafe" and in "Dacron" would limit recoil and spring-back under tension.

thataway · Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:26 pm Post subject:

The very few times I have used a trip line, I used 3 strand nylon. Barry makes a good point that Dacron may be a better choice. On the other hand, I just don't carry spare Dacron (or spectra etc) lines on the boat. I just use a anchor line. The float is also a good question--I have used a large round fender--clearly labeled "trip line, no mooring" and had boaters try and pick it up! (as well as a commercial fishing boat wind it up into their prop…) There is the theoretical use of a floating line--and there if there is slack in the part floating on the water (even at low tide) there is the possibility of another boat fouling it in their prop.).

The 3rd option is the shackling of the chain to the crown of the anchor, with electrical ties along the shank, and several at the normal
head of the anchor shank. The danger of this is if there is a rapid tidal or wind reverse, and the ties were to pop…in reality that very rarely happens--and a GPS anchor watch should be set anyway...

bridma · Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 6:03 pm Post subject:

Not many replies, but thanks Barry and Bob. Perhaps those of you who do use trip lines use any old bit of rope lying around. I didn't want to use the yellow 'floaty' line or the 'sinky' pot lines, so am going to buy some 3-strand nylon. I'll look at 1/4" and 3/8", then make a decision.

Martin.

thataway · Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 11:35 pm Post subject:

I would use 3/8, because if the anchor is "stuck" you may have to really load it. For example I have hooked into various objects, including a huge log, a battle ship chain, some logging cables, and some very sizable rocks--always got the anchor back--never left one down there….yet...

Jake B · Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 12:00 pm Post subject:

just a curious question. with a said stuck anchor the best way to "free" it would be to motor above and away from it? I think i am going to go the zip tie way..

thataway · Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 12:07 pm Post subject:

With any of the techniques, you will go directly toward the anchor in the direction which it was set--if our bearing was 90 degrees when riding to the anchor, then motor at 90 degrees (as you normally would) until over the anchor. Use the boat's power to try and pull out the anchor. In unsuccessful, and you have the zip ties, continue to go forward, until the zip ties break, then you can pull the anchor up by the crown. If you have a trip line, and the anchor does not come up, snag the trip line with the boat hook, and use it to pull the anchor up. You may have to use the boat to do this, if the anchor is jammed under a rock or cable. The last technique is the loop of chain. That is shackled around the rode, in a loop. A separate rope is connected to this chain, and the chain slid down the primary rode. Then allowed to slowly drag along the bottom--keeping the rode tight. Finally as the chain comes under the shank of the anchor--you want to apply force in the line as you did above--at compass heading of 90 degrees.