RG58 connector

[localboy]

So I bought a GLOMEX VHF radio antenna; it was a close-out. I intend to install it for a second radio on board. When it came I discovered the cable was much smaller than the Shakespeare I had brought previously and still use as our primary VHF. The cable on the GLOMEX says RG58. My question is how do I install a connector, soldered, to this much smaller diameter cable? Is this what I need? Description is somewhat lacking.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/shakespeare-pl-259-vhf-connector-with-ug175-adapter

Pros/cons to this smaller cable? Seems to be an older style of cable; this anyway from the limited research I've done into it. Less shielding? Smaller cable inside? Or just an older "standard"? I'm running it along with the radar cable; my plan is to zip tie the two together. Any issue with this?

Thanks as always....

[BrentB]

I bought solder type connectors on ebay and dont trust solderless units (just my prejudice)

You can practice soldering by soldering paper clips together
After a 100, you will be an expert

tutorial
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm

Dont have one then borrow one, I have a dozen or more and some are antiques from relatives

Since your radio can save your life, borrow a SWR meter and test the radio and antenna in operation.
Why?
It tests receiver function as well as output power and VSWR (antenna efficiency)

I have one like this
http://www.thegpsstore.com/Shakespeare-ART-3-Antenna-Radio-Tester-P2440.aspx?gclid=CPnx3oziwrwCFaZAMgodGFAAKg

m2cw

[colobear]

Mark, I have successfully used a Shakespeare PL-259-CP-G Centerpin Solderless Connector when replacing antennas or radios. I know how to solder but this seemed pretty simple and reliable. They are available in most marine stores for about $10 or less. Using it made my life simpler. YMMV.

[thataway]

Although the Shakespeare PL CP=G is easy to use, and will do fairly well at first, with time in the marine environment, corrosion will eventually occur at the braid (ground) prong interface. An example is during the Nordhavn Atlantic Rally, some of the boats were getting AIS signals out 30 or so miles, others were only 8 miles. After analysis, it was discovered that the boats with the lesser range were using these crimp on connectors.

You might do better with the Shakespeare PL 259, using dielectric grease on the area where the points pierce the braid, then covering this area with coax seal or adhesive lined shrink wrap.

RG 58 is not the worst coax you can buy--but it is close… It is 50 ohms, which is fine, but the amount of insulation, diameter, type and amount of braid made it more "lossy" and it will have slightly over 5 dB loss per 100 feet. This coax is easier to run in tubing, because it is smaller diameter. The best to do, is to cut any unused coax off. Just be sure you have at least 3 feet between the antenna and radio.

You can find both soldered and solder less connectors. Brent cites an excellent site on soldering. For the PL 259 there are some tricks. I did some photos and here is a link to a good article on soldering the PL 259's.
http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-electronics-forum/189964-how-install-coax-connector-pic-heavy.html

Below is the photo of a properly soldered PL 259--see page 14 of the "Thataway" album

[Barry Rietz]

Localboy,

Before you cut the coax there are several issues you should consider. The first is the "impedance" of "feedline (coax) and antenna". If they vary by more than a few "ohms", you will experience some loss of signal strength. The quality of the coax "shielding" also affects signal strength. "Standing wave ratio" should be checked with a temporary "inline" meter before sealing up the installation. Additionally the photo of the PL-259 connector Bob Austin provided shows the best quality solder joint I've ever seen! However his photo does not show the most important solder joint which is the "center conductor". As for the difference in coax size, you can obtain a "barrel connector" at most electronics stores that will allow the smaller coax to be adapted to the PL-259 connector. Feel free to "PM" me if you would like additional information. (N9DXC@hotmail.com)

[thataway]

Barry, Thank you for the kind word about my solder on the PL 259. The photos which I suggested that folks look at, show the soldering of the center connector--which is far easier to achieve a good solder joint than the braid.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Thataway&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=14

The RG 58 cable should be 50 ohms. The cable itself is not part of the antenna circuit on a VHF antenna--however leaving 3 feet is a precaution to avoid any impedance change.

The other article and these photos give a pretty good idea of what precautions are necessary, what size of soldering irons, and type of solder should be used.

[localboy]

OK. Thanks all. I'll read the articles and get the proper connector. If I have any questions, I'll contact the proper persons...THANKS!!

[localboy]

What is the proper soldering iron? I see some that are larger, pistol grip and 100 & 140 watts and some pencil like ones that are like 25...40 watts?

Costs vary too between $12 to over $100.

[thataway]

My recollection is that for the demo I did in the photos I used a 40 watt soldering iron. You don't want to get the whole fitting too hot--and you and one of the reasons to use a vice, is for that to be a heat sink. I used a machinists drill press vice in the demo--THT link used a bench vice--either type will work. You may also want to put some heat sink on the tip--such as a hemostat on the tip--you don't want to melt the insulation. With the trick of pre soldering the braid to the adaptor fitting, you can use much less heat when you solder the barrel to the adaptor (to the RG 58 in your case). A mistake which many make is to get the whole barrel too hot, and insulation melts. You want a smooth flow of the solder, but just around the hole--not over the entire barrel. You can use a higher power iron, with less contact time, or click the 100/140 iron on and off to get the right amount of heat--I have done that--and the 100/140 iron is very versatile. Don't use 300 watts however.

I have an assortment of soldering irons--they all last a long time and have other uses. There are two Weller two heat Guns--one is the 200 to 300 watts, for really heavy and fast work, The other is the 100 to 140 watts, and that is the one I have used the most. It is about 40 years old. I put new tips on it and it still keeps on working! I have an assortment of tips--and use it for hot knifing acrylic fabrics, putting holes in fabrics, to seal the edges etc.

Then I have several of the pencil type (I don't have the fancy soldering station)--one is 15 watts for circuit boards, there is a 40 and an 80 watt pencil type with chisel tips. I also have a Portasol which is 25 to 75 watts, and is handy if you have to solder away from electrical power--like at the top of a 65 foot mast on a sailboat! It uses a propane cartridge to provide the heat. I also have several of the torches, from a mini up to an oxygen/ mapp gas (silver solder and very light brazing), with various tips. All of these give goo much heat for me to use for soldering the PL 259.

Also tips have to be cleaned, and occasionally reshaped with a file. You can use a "sponge" or cloth to clean the trip--and keep the tip well soldered. Of course only use resin core solder when working on electronics.

The other question not answered is about wire tying the VHF and Radar cables. Probably OK--I have seen problems with the sonar and VHF cables. A lot depends on what is sent thru the cable. For example the Garmin now do most of the computing in the dome, so you have basically a ether-net cable. If I was worried, I would do a mock up before mounting, and see if there is interference. (If the radar is already in, just tape the VHF cables next to the lower Radar cables, and key the mic with the radar running to see if there is interference. My guess is that it is possible you might have some Radar interference during a VHF transmission. I try and keep the antenna/transducer cables separate, not close or parallel.

[localboy]

Guess I should've actually READ the tutorial posted above. It answered all my stupid questions. Thanks.