need help sealing wood floor

starcrafttom · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:53 am Post subject: need help sealing wood floor

Hi, I'm making a new set of floors for my sled. The old ones were covered in thin carpet and water logged. I have no idea why you would use carpeted covered bare ply wood in a open sled but hey that's just me.

So I have not done this before and want to know what type of the resin I should use or if there is better option that I should be looking at. Also what type of non skid. any help is welcome.

Captains Cat · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:15 am Post subject:

It may depend on the kind of wood you are going to use... What kind is it, more plywood? If so, be sure to use marine plywood...

Charlie

AstoriaDave · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:23 pm Post subject:

Marine ply will hold up a lot better, if you can afford it. Epoxy will seal the plywood, but it will check and water will get into the wood unless you lay on some glass. Six ounce is heavy enough, filled with a couple added coats of resin. Clean it well with hot soapy water and hit it with the orbitlal sander using 150 grit to give tooth for the paint. Paint it with whatever you like, adding some polycarbonate grit to the first coat, and covering the grit with a second coat. System Three sells the polycarbonate grit. much better than sand. You can knock down the grit with some 150 grit to take off the sharp points, leaving plenty of roughness for traction if you like.

More work than slapping down a layer of outdoor carpet, but probably last longer, and a bit lighter. In any high wear areas, stick down some rubber carpet runner if you like.

rogerbum · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:42 pm Post subject:

Tom,
I may have most of a can of the grit in my shed. I'll check when I get a chance. If I have it and you want it, you can have it.

thataway · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 5:57 pm Post subject:

Agree that a coat of epoxy resin is far better than polyester resin. Also it is advisable to coat the edge grain of the plywood with epoxy resin, as well as the under side. An alternative for the underside would be cuperinol #10 wood preservative. (assuming that you can obtain this in WA.)
You want to wash the epoxy between coats to remove the amine--unless you are laying the coats up before the prior one kicks off entirely.

I prefer glass beads for the non skid. They are not as aggressive, as the various grits, but still give an excellent non skid surface. Mix the beads in the last coat of epoxy resin--then paint over. There are also some good paints with the nonskid mixed in; Kiwi grip has excellent reviews. I have not used it, but would be tempted for this type type of project.

bcassal · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:13 pm Post subject:

You might want to look into "Smith's Penetrating Epoxy". It is a very thin epoxy, the consistency of water. It is an excellent sealer and if recoated within 3 days or so ( depending on the temp) it will bond to the coating as well as the substrate and greatly enhance adhesion. It is used extensively in antique boat restoration.

Carpy.

starcrafttom · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 9:24 pm Post subject:

Roger I will take the grit. Thank you.

I will look into the glass. I have worked with that before a few years ago. It am using a high end ply wood but not marine ply. I thought that the epoxy would make it water proof, is that not right??

AstoriaDave · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:15 pm Post subject:

thataway · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:18 pm Post subject:

One of the features of Marine plywood is that there are no voids, and no dutchmen. The laminates are grade b or better. No knotholes, or gap greater than 1/8", The glues are exterior/waterproof.

There are also some very high grades of plywood such as Okoume or Bruynzeel which are used in boat building.

If the wood expands and contracts more than the epoxy, the checking will occur as Dave notes. Putting the glass overlay prevents this. I have used A/B exterior ply as a backing where I rebuilt some hatches on the Taiwan built ketch we owned, with teak facing and epoxy saturation on the back without glass and it held up well.

I have built several small boats using Bruynzeel ply and covering inside and out with very light (.75 or 1.5 oz cloth) with epoxy in stitch and glue technique. I am sure that Dave suggested the heavier cloth because of the application and potential for foot traffic.

starcrafttom · Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:57 pm Post subject:

Ok I see that the plan has to be glass over the wood and then paint. Should I soak the wood first with resin before I glass or just let the resin soak thru the glass? I have only glassed over glass before as a repair, never done any glass work as a build.

This floor will see a lot of rough work in a river / duck boat. I play hard and use my toys in the same manner. River fishing and hunting do no lend themselves to careful use so that this floor has to be tough but with out being heavy.

Captains Cat · Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:21 am Post subject:

starcrafttom · Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:44 am Post subject:

In my second post I stated high end ply but not marine. Dam navy.

AstoriaDave · Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:11 am Post subject:

Captains Cat · Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:19 am Post subject:

rogerbum · Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:29 am Post subject: