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Webasto / Espar Installation Question
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beermanPDX



Joined: 01 Feb 2012
Posts: 261
City/Region: Portland
State or Province: OR
Photos: Jean Marie
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again everyone for the replies. I just thought I'd post a follow-up now that I've finally completed the install.

I bought the heater separate from the marine installation kit. I purchased the installation kit from Sure Marine along with their thermostat and Surewire board. It really simplified the wiring and gives me some diagnostic tools along with an hour meter. FYI - The guys at Sure Marine are fantastic.

Initially I was going to mount the heater and diesel tank in the galley cabinet. I just could not come up with a good place to mount the heater and ductwork that would not require me re-routing a bunch of other plumbing and cables. I also didn't want to mount the heater transversely so I'd have to add an immediate 90 degree turn. The installation guide is pretty clear that you want to minimize sharp turns in the first few feet of ductwork. I then thought about installing everything on the port side, but couldn't come up with a way that didn't require me to permanently remove the water heater or completely lose the hanging locker for storage.

I ended up with a hybrid approach. The heater and duct work is on the port side. Heater unit is mounted behind the hot water heater and eats up no storage space. It's mounted on an angle to minimize sharp duct turns. The exhaust exits the hull near the top of the hanging locker (had to cut an access hole between the water heater compartment and the hanging locker). I really didn't lose any hanging locker storage since the back 6" or so were already taken up by other plumbing. I took the advice of some here and just let the combustion air be pulled from the cabin. The 6 gallon aluminum diesel tank is mounted on the starboard side of the boat....on the shelf in the galley cabinet. The only drawback was that it required a longer fuel line run, but I'm still way under the max allowable length. I added a new deck fuel fill on the gunwale so I wouldn't have to lug diesel fuel in to the cabin and risk spilling it. I also added a new Attwood p-trap flush mount tank vent. I really like it and may change out the other thru-hull vents to this flush style over time.

I added some installation pictures in to my album:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album2016&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

The following picture from a 44 degree day sums things up best:



We were warm and happy inside. Note that the windows are FOG-FREE!!!

_________________
Cheers Beer

Rob
2008 25 Cruiser - Sold
2002 Nordic Tug 32/4 - Sold
1989 40 Tollycraft Sport Sedan
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Sunbeam



Joined: 23 Feb 2012
Posts: 3990
City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice - I always like to read the follow-up Thumbs Up

beermanPDX wrote:
I also added a new Attwood p-trap flush mount tank vent. I really like it and may change out the other thru-hull vents to this flush style over time.


I replaced both of my fuel tank vents with those. I chose them because they solved a problem for me (vents were so close to gunwale that there was no room for a loop or for non-flush P-trap installation), but in the end I liked them "just for themselves" anyway.
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