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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 12:00 am    Post subject: Windlass Line Counter Reply with quote

From: Mike (Original Message) Sent: 12/23/2002 5:55 PM
A couple of us are working on this wild idea to add an electronic line counter to the windlasses on our boats. The gypsy that pays out and retrieves the rode is right about 4" in diameter, making the circumference where the line actually runs just about one foot. Therefore, one revolution of the gypsy will equal approximately one foot of rode. All we need to do is count the revolutions. Joe (Seawolf) just installed a new windlass that has a switch built in. I have a low voltage proximity switch that I plan to use, and will attach a metal lug to the gypsy to serve as a flag. We both have some snazzy little electronic, resetable counters. One of us will have the thing working before too long.

We'll let you know on this thread how the projects go.

Mike

From: Mike Sent: 1/5/2003 10:08 PM
Joe -

Did those counter gizmos ever show up? If so, does it look like it will work for you? I haven't got started on my counter project yet. Too many other people needing my time.

Hope all is well,

Mike

From: Sea Wolf Sent: 1/6/2003 8:21 AM
Mike- Good news! I finally got a few hours to go up to the Delta and fiddle with the counter on the boat. Everything works just as planned! The magnet on the gypsy triggers the proximity switch on the housing underneath, and the counter registers every pass perfectly! The system requires 12 volts or so to operate, and therefore must be wired in series with the boat's power source.

I decided to made the counter only work on the downward motion of the anchor, so I figured out which side of the two output wires to the motor is positive when the motor is in the down mode. (For those of you unfamiliar with the set up, the power to the windlass is controlled by a solenoid which reverses the polarity and direction of current flow through the motor to reverse the direction of rotation on the up and down use of the windlass.)

Here's how to wire it:
Connect a wire to the positive side of the windlass output. Run this wire to terminal 1 on the counter. Run a wire from terminal 2 on the counter to one side of the switch on the windlass. Run a wire from the other side back to the negative (ground) imput to the solenid. In this manner, the circuit will be energized only when power is going to the motor on the down cycle. The button on the counter will have to be reset to zero for the next down/out measurement.

I couldn't find a good place to read the LCD display of the counter on the dash, so I put it in a little 2 x 2 1/2 x 5 inch project box from Radio Shack, and mounted the box on the tray top of the dash on the right had side. Much easier to see there. The counter body is 3 1/2 inches long, and you need the extra length inside for access to a machine screw to mount it through the top of the dash, plus room for the wires and soderless connectors. Blue size female "tounge" receiver lugs slide perfectly over the round pins on the rear of the counter.

Thanks for the great idea, Mike! And thanks for the counter!!! Pictures asap. Joe.

From: Mike Sent: 1/6/2003 6:40 PM
Joe -

Sounds really neat. Your whole installation looks great. I really like that windlass. The counter install worked out good. I like the box on the top idea. I talked to one of our electricians last week and told him that we need to start collecting those counters. Usually when I make a request like that, some good stuff shows up. I will be sure and keep a spare or two around in case we ever need them.

Thanks for the excellent project details. Very good info. So good, in fact, that if I was adding a windlass today I would be checking out the Aires line. I seriously considered a Sprint vertical, so there would be less of it up on the deck, but their's has a vertical motor, as well, and I didn't want it hanging down into the rode locker area. Sounds like the motor arrangment on yours is much better.

Mike

From: Mike Sent: 2/28/2003 8:55 PM
Oh yeah - it works! I got the line counter hooked up this evening. I came up with a different style counter (out of necessity - ran out of the others), and it uses it's own internal batteries for the signal power. Instead of the hot proximity switch, I used a small reed switch that is flagged by a magnet stuck to the gypsy. I believe that is the type of switch that comes built in with Joe's windlass (and now Cheers' and 2nd Byte's).

Maybe tomorrow I can get some pictures of the thing.

Mike

From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 9:40 PM
I used the windlass for the first time in the water today since rigging up the line counter. I like it. She never missed a lick.

From: kenonBlue-C Sent: 4/7/2003 6:25 PM
Yipper Skipper, that pattened Tyboo Marine Products Line Counter works mighty fine, very slick. Those rode marker flags don't cut it, with the TMPLC and the fish finder's depth reading I can easly tell what I have for scope. I think I still owe you another truck load of smelt as payment for this fine device.

From: Mike Sent: 4/7/2003 7:21 PM
Well, let me cut down the pile of smelt I have first!! A guy always needs to know his scope, that's for sure. I done run them out of the used counters and switches at work. I need to persuade the electricaltricians to be a little more on the ball with the preventive maintenance and replace a few more. We sure can't afford the new ones. Don't tell Tim, but I am trying real hard to come up with just one more setup to make up for the dog email list that Kay stuck him on.

From: Mike Sent: 5/21/2003 9:36 PM
Hey there Da Nag Bill - Ain't it about time for a windlass line counter report? Did you get it installed yet? How about the fancy peg? Did it work out?

From: Da_Nag™ Sent: 5/22/2003 8:45 AM
Hey Mike,

Just got the boat back home last weekend - no time yet to do the install. Should have it done by Blakely at the latest - you coming up?

Bill

From: Mike Sent: 8/31/2003 6:21 PM
Bill -

Did you hook up the line counter yet?

From: Da_Nag™ Sent: 9/1/2003 8:53 AM
Hey - I said I'd have it done by Blakely. Since I flaked on that gig, I figured that gave me another year.

I'll have it ready for your inspection at Sequim.

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 9/2/2003 1:33 AM
Mike,

Just wound up a solid month of cruising and fishing PWS. Silver fishing was great as usual and we stopped counting at 200, most of which we released of course. Weather was good for the most part and the water flat. The Aries Quick 500 Windlass and the counter are teamed up and work great! I mounted the counter on top of the "dash" left of the steering wheel with a special two sided tape (Fusor #170). Also used a thru hull vent (sans screen) for the rode locker drain. The 600' of 3/8" that I had been using with the bouy/anchor pulling just didn't work with the windlass. The line was too soft to feed reliably into the locker. It was a brand X line, definitely not "New England" or equivelent. I used a 200' piece of NE 1/2" and it worked fine. I'm going to have to determine if a better/stiffer grade of 3/8 or maybe 7/16" will work so I can get my length back up closer to where I'd like to have it.

The SS motor bracket worked great . Couldn't have been better!

I'll burn some pics of the 'ole raft & recent projects and stick 'em on my album as soon as it quits raining. Had more rain the last 3 days here in Fairbanks than I did the whole time I was fishing.

Mark

From: Mike Sent: 9/2/2003 7:17 PM
Mark -

That's good to hear about the gizmos being good. Your stuff is the only things I ever made that works! Also good to hear you had such a blast with the fishing.

You might be stuck with the 1/2" line. The windlas gypsy is sized to squeeze that diameter the most efficiently. You might get by with 7/16", but I think any smaller and you may get some slippage when retrieving. That's the case with mine, anyway. Your vertical windlass (horizontal gypsy) could be more forgiving than my Horizon, though. The 300' of 1/2" line just fills the rode locker on mine. I could get another couple hundred feet in easily if I extended the bulkhead that forms the wall of the locker. Maybe you can try that and get some more in there.

Pics would be great.

Thanks,

Mike

From: 2nd Byte Sent: 9/3/2003 12:39 AM
Mike,
You may be right on the 1/2" being the "only" viable alternative and I can live with that. In talking to MariSafe they said that the main problem in the smaller line is that the gypsy hangs on to it too long instead of releasing it cleanly (if that makes sense) and causes it to feed unreliably into the rode locker. However the specs say it should feed the 7/16" OK. I'll find a chunk to play with and see but may wind up moving the rear bulkhead of the rode locker back a few inches.

Mark

From: Da_Nag™ Sent: 9/26/2003 10:04 PM
OK, it's ready for a Sequim inspection. Works fine in the driveway, may head out to the reservoir before the weekend is up for some real testing. I placed the counter on the overhead shelf, using velcro tape.

And, I finally have a use for that dang anchor deck pipe - makes for a nice wire routing location for the counter.

Bill

From: Da_Nag™ Sent: 9/26/2003 10:07 PM
Forgot to mention - a great source for magnets is a home alarm dealer/installer. They use these tiny rare earth magnets, that are smaller than a shirt button, and incredibly powerful. Just glued one to the side of the gypsy, you can hardly tell it's there.

Bill

From: Rma1531 Sent: 10/16/2003 11:59 AM
Seawolf,

I noticed that in your photo of your excellently detailed windlass
installation you have added a screw (or bolt) in the fortress anchor slot,
just below the anchor swivel connector. I have the same exact set-up,
i.e., a Quick windlass, same anchor swivel connector, same fortress
anchor. The problem is that some times, the anchor swivel connector can
get stuck/jammed in the fortress anchor slot because the slot is too long.

I assume that the screw you added resolves this issue by effectively
shortening the slot and thereby preventing the swivel from becoming
jammed. If this is the case, can you kindly tell me what type and size
screw you used? Did you have to drill anything, or was it just a matter of
inserting and tightening the right size screw?

Thanks in advance!
IM000346.jpg

From: C-Wolf1 Sent: 10/26/2003 2:30 AM
Rma1531-

Sorry to take so long to answer, but we've been on a two week cruise through New England, the Canadian Maritime Provinces, the St. Lawrence Seaway, Quebec, etc.

The machine screw is a 1/4 x 20, 3/4" long, with a Pan head and Phillips insert. The other side is a Ny-lock nut, standard 1/4 x 20. There are also two washers, about 5/8" diameter, one on either side.

The trick is to jam up the throat just enout to stop the thing from jamming on one side or the other without preventing it from pivoting from one side to the other, the way it's supposed to.

It's been a while since I set this up, but I don't remember any other "tricks" or adjustments were necessary. The 3/4" length is a little short ofcutting into all the nylon material, a 1" cut down to 7/8" would be perfect. Let me know if you need me to take it apart and check it out further. Joe

From: Rma1531 Sent: 10/27/2003 5:27 PM
Thanks for responding. Based on your photo, I pretty much did the same thing, but instead of a loc-nut I used a stainless steel tee-nut that I reversed (and flattened the barbs). I used serated lock washers. Seems to work good. While I was at it, I added a chain counter (cheap counter from Allied Radio - $30). I even added a remote control (inexpensive keychain remote from Autozone - $35). I'm thinking about adding a limit switch on the upward direction to remove any guesswork. This isn't much different than a garage door opener come to think of it - just more torque! Now, there's no more aching back (priceless). Anchoring has become quick and easy. I've even got a coil hose at the bow to wash mud from the chain and anchor as it feeds towards the locker (25 foot coil hose with nozzle from Lowes - $15).
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SeaSpray



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is old stuff but I would like to build one of the anchor line counters for my windlass. Can anyone provide the devices used?

Thanks,
Steve
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TyBoo



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bad news on those counter gizmos. I got several of the things from work after they were removed from machinery, but am no longer able to get them. Or anything else for that matter. We have a new regime at the mill, and they will not allow anything to be removed. They used to have a very liberal policy for scrap and junk, but now they say because of "homeland security issues" they can no longer let anyone take anything home. I don't believe the reason - I think they are just being selfish. But they still let me keep my paycheck, so who am I to argue?

The setup is pretty simple, though. It consists of a self powered (3v) totalizer unit and a reed switch. Glue a magnet on the gypsy and mount the switch so it senses it once each revolution and sends a signal to increment the counter. It is real close to accurate because of the gypsy diameter. But the components are pretty spendy (I guess so the pulp industry teerrorists can't afford them).

But here's an idea you might look into. Go to a bicycle shop and check out the simplest, cheapest electronic speedometer they have. The ones I've seen work by counting the revolutions of the bike wheel and calculating the speed. The ones with the cadence feature actually count the revs of the pedal crank. It should be pretty easy to get the thing to work for this.

Or you can go to an idustrial electrical supplier and see what they have that would work for cheap. If you are a semi-nerd, you can probably even find something on the web.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, Folks - Post Deleted By Author

Last edited by dogon dory on Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:54 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My advice, Tyboo, is to keep making sure there is indeed something in your bi-weekly envelope, because in my experience, it won't be long before your paycheck goes the way of the scrap metal policy.
Al

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dogon dory wrote:
The bike speedo is not a bad idea.


Let me be perfectly clear on this. I am referring to a bike speedometer, not the spandex get up that DoD references. I think a speedo would without doubt be a bad idea, but whatever floats his boat.............
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dogon dory



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and the natural order of things has returned.
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SeaSpray



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a couple of bike speedos and they are wireless. Good thing too, those wires could hurt! Disgust

Sounds like a good idea if I get it going I will post something.
Steve
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really reaching back. (2003 Thread)

Wonder if anyone has accomplished any of these counters? Seems like a great idea, or maybe there is something available "after market" that I don't know about?

Harvey
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 4:28 pm    Post subject: Windlass Line Counter Reply with quote

Since the windless only runs at one speed. Why not use a stop watch while testing in your drive way. Let out some rode measure it. Then you could just multiply and have sheet showing how many seconds for 50' 150' etc.
No perfect but it should close. Finding a cheap watch with a stopwatch function should not be to hard to find. Get some sleep.
Mr. Green
D.D.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

D.D.

That is a good idea, and I have used it, or tried. It does help approximate it, but in practice, it is pretty awkward to do. I have tried it with the stop watch on my phone, and the one on my boat clock. It runs at 13 meters per minute so about 1 minute to drop 28 feet. After the first run to the bottom, which goes OK, the backing and laying the chain the windlass is run intermittently, and I run out of hands. I do have the chain and rode marked, but not in frequent enough graduations. I am working on that.

I was really hoping that somebody had found a really cool measuring system, digital and works up and down, so I could read it off the dash at the helm.

Harvey
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 2:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hardee wrote:
Wonder if anyone has accomplished any of these counters?


Yes.



I forgot to take a picture of the sensor and magnet on the windlass.

The little red light at top center comes on with the breaker as a reminder. I don't like leaving the breaker on when the windlass is not in use.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW, thanks Mike, I wonder if that would work on my Quick windlass. Or, maybe thay have one that would be able to be applied as a retro fit. I'm sure they do $$$$ Shocked

Thanks for the idea, I'll be doing some checking.

Harvey
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 8:09 am    Post subject: Windless Line Counter Reply with quote

http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/AA-11472588.htm

For the man who has everything. Found it just by going on a Google search Anchor Line Counter

D.D.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 8:51 am    Post subject: markers Reply with quote

Always the outlier, I like combos of Day-glo colored zip ties on both chain and rode. If they came with reflective sparkles, I'd buy that. You can space them as close or as distant as you like. You can leave on the whole colored 6 inch plastic hi vis tail and it will pass right through the gypsy without getting chewed, oddly enough. You can see 4 bright blue 6 inch tails go down better than any of the above, even the counter. You can cut them off without a trace if you add chain or rode or reverse rode every few years (not a bad idea). Nothing permanent or long term about them and dirt cheap. I love the added complexity and expense of a counter but I can't justify it yet. When you get the common Lewmar 700 windlass, be sure to get the version which is compatible with later adding a wireless remote (you'd have to ask the seller or Lewmar per Tom Shulke's experience with looking into that. I had it done, he can't with the same 700 series). The added expense and complexity of the windlass wireless remote is also cool and I can justify it better than a counter, but that's just me. Now I or the Admiral can stand right over the chain and see them tails go right by our feet.
Have fun deciding!
John at Hontoon Marina with the Brats

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