Tired of Buffing & Waxing

[rogerar]

Anyone have experience with this product:

http://www.nyalic.com/

I note it lasts 3-5 years as opposed to Poly Glow which says lasts "over 12 months"

Roger

[ssobol]

There are now available wipe/brush on ceramic coatings. I've seen them for metal parts, but there are now ones for painted surfaces and wood. Supposed to last 10 yrs.

[Dreamer]

$ 199 for a prep kit, 32 oz. of product and one 12 oz. spray can seems a bit steep to me! Even if it was used on space vehicles

[rogerar]

I see a 12 oz. spray can is 42.00, not to bad if I can do the prep right on my own, I just want to do the trim on my hull and cabin. Compund and wax isn't too cheap either, and I am afraid one day I will buff through the gelcoat-then I'll be facing a real problem!
Roger

[starcrafttom]

If this anything like the stuff that was on my boat when I got it RUN do not walk away from this stuff. Its really just floor wax. it yellows, fades and streaks in some areas and is impossible to get off other areas. It took me about 30 hours over a week to get this stuff off my boat. I had to use floor wax remover by hand to get it off. It was a night mare. Once its on you are stuck with it. No way I would use this.

[Sunbeam]

Just out of curiosity, when you are buffing and waxing, are you getting it back to a fine shine before the wax goes on? If you are already a compounding/buffing expert (which you may be but I have no way of knowing) then ...please pardon my asking. I just ask because I have found over the years that some people either buff lightly with a "homeowner" buffer, and then expect the wax to make it shiny. Or they compound fairly aggressively and then go straight to was. I haven't found either of those to work as well as they could.

What I found to work better was to compound with the most aggressive necessary compound, then polish with one or two stages of a less aggressive polishing compound, sort of like working through the grits when you are sanding wood. Then - only once it's all shiny and just how you want it to look - then wax, just to help keep the UV off (I know, in Florida you can only try to keep it off, because you have some wicked UV there).

(Or substitute wetsanding for some of the above.)

Of course if there were a product one could just brush on instead of doing that (and maybe there is!), then great.

Sunbeam

[Hunkydory]

[Sunbeam]

I think this has been mentioned before, but quite a few fiberglass trailer folks have been using Red Max floor polish on their outside gelcoat (available at some big-box home DIY stores). I was skeptical, and haven't kept up on the threads, but when I was reading about it I have to admit people didn't seem to have much bad to say.

So far I'm still in the "old fashioned" camp, but always interested in learning about new things.

Sunbeam

[rogerar]

Thanks for finding that discussion! I found the info in a workboat trade journal, and after reading the Wooden Boat discussion, I'm sold!
And yes, I have professional buffing and waxing experience, enough to be very tired of it.
The boat isn't due for haulout 'till Oct., but I think I'll order a can and go on and try it on the cabin trim.
It will probably work great because I just bought an expensive Porter Cable dual action varible speed buffer!
When I bought my boat it was coated with peeling Poly Glow, hard to remove, but a lot of paper towels and acetone will do the job.
Roger

[starcrafttom]

My boat was covered in Poly glow, which is just acrylic floor wax ( which is not really a wax), and was a night mare to get off. This product looks like the same type of thing but I would have to see it. I much prefer just a reel wax.