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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12632 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Sunbeam,
Where did you come up with the part number?
Quote: | "For the side nav lights, just to double check, do you have the Perko 120/170 style fixtures that look like this:" |
I found it in the West Marine catalog but not on the light itself. There are two different light sets that look close, I did take the colored cover off but did not remove the whole fixture from the boat. Also, the WM catalog has the power requirements and bulb number but I have not been able to find that bulb in any search.
I am going back over to the boat to dig deeper. Measure and check again.
Harvey
SleepyC _________________ Though in our sleep we are not conscious of our activity or surroundings, we should not, in our wakefulness, be unconscious of our sleep. |
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Sunbeam
Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Posts: 3990 City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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I just happen to know those lights from past years. They were originally called the Perko 120 series and had regular bulbs (non LED). Then the 120's were superseded by the 170 series (still with regular bulbs) in the same molded housing. Later came the 170 series in LED (very expensive at >$150). So now the 170 series comes in both "regular" and LED.
Let me dig up the link on Perko's page...
Okay, here we go. This is the regular-bulbed 170 series. If you look under the notes tab, you'll see that this superseded the old 120 series. Going by the note, there is a hint that perhaps the 120 series only came in 12-volt, but the 170 is 12 or 24 volt.
http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/navigation_lights_under_20_meters/product/933/
Although I've always been a fan or Perko (I like that you can get - and determine part numbers for - parts for older fixtures), I just can't quite see the price of the 170 Series LED's. I looked at the Aqua Signal 33 series, which are natively designed to be LED's, and are a nice, tidy fixture (they don't really need to be so bulgy with LED bulbs), but the footprint is not quite the same, and there may be an issue with the hole where the wire goes into the boat (the LED's are often flat on the back; not sure about the Aqua Signal) (this issue does exist on the back of the 170 LED's just to make them even less appealing at the price point). So in that way probably easier to just get bulbs, if not quite as reliable.
Perhaps this will help on the bulbs. It links to Perko's spare bulbs page with dimensions. The bulb for the 170 series light is part #0070DP1CLR
http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/spare_parts/product/568/
The Perko page says that bulb is 1-11/16" long; converting to metric I get 42.86mm, presuming I got it right. So its interesting that your side lights have bulbs that are so much shorter.
Sunbeam |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12632 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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Sunbeam said:
Quote: | "Perhaps this will help on the bulbs. It links to Perko's spare bulbs page with dimensions. The bulb for the 170 series light is part #0070DP1CLR
http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/spare_parts/product/568/
The Perko page says that bulb is 1-11/16" long; converting to metric I get 42.86mm, presuming I got it right. So its interesting that your side lights have bulbs that are so much shorter." |
Yes, Interesting is one way to put it. And to think I was ready to order and just because I was over at the boat decided to pull the bulb on a whim My bulb is 30.15 mm, and I measured it and converted to metric and then found a metric tape to do it again after I came up with such "off" numbers. I only pulled the port light. Think before I close the order I am going to go back and pull the Stbd one too, just to make sure.
One thing I did like about the Perko 170 is that they are available in brass/ chrome. Can't say I like the price much though.
Thanks for the help, Hope you finally got some sunshine.
Harvey
SleepyC |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12632 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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From that Perko link, under the spare parts tab.
"Lens and Shield Assembly: 0170BP0LNS"
Think I will be calling them and see if that will bolt on directly over my existing light base I I would have the brass and chrome in stead of the waxy black.
Isn't it fun to do boat projects It is never just one thing.
Harvey
SleepyC |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12632 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 2:19 am Post subject: |
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As far as I can tell, my lights are either the 0120 or the 0170, from measuring as close as I can. They just have the smaller lights (31mm) than (it appears) everybody else's. and I have yet to get that figured out with Perko yet.
Harvey
SleepyC |
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srbaum
Joined: 30 Aug 2010 Posts: 877 City/Region: Portsmouth
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 26 Venture
Vessel Name: Osprey
Photos: Osprey
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 12:09 pm Post subject: Perko side light |
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OSPREY is a 2002 boat and the originally installed Perko 120's had corroded lamp bases, so replacing the bulbs was not an option. I really did not want to drill more holes in the boat, so I shopped for alternative fixtures. I ended up paying a kings ransom and buying the Perko 170 series to have the same base, as I knew that even new 120's would corrode down the line.
After ordering the 170's (lot of confusion between West Marine & Perko because the incorrect lights were shipped twice), I figured that mounting them wouldn't take more that about 20 minutes... Well though the light base and mounting holes have the same hole pattern, the wires coming out of the 170's come out at a different location. Again not wanting to drill another hole in the boat, I made a rubber gasket for both lights that gave enough clearance, to allow snaking the new wires to the previous hole in the cabin side, without crushing the wires.
The part number of the new lights are:
Perko Red 0170BP012L
Perko Green 0170BSD12L
So that 20 minute job took more that 2 hours considering the time to go get gasket material and cut it to mate to the light bases. _________________ Steve Baum
Homeport of Portsmouth, VA
OSPREY (Ex Mister Sea) 2000 22 C-Dory 2010 - Sold 3/19
OSPREY (Ex ADITI) 2007 26 Cape Cruiser 2018 |
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dabfd
Joined: 24 Mar 2009 Posts: 42 City/Region: Thousand Oaks
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Patriot (was Tom-a-Hawk)/sold
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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On a side note to those of us that return to our boats at night, Cruising Solutions, offers LED anchor lights that will turn on automatic for around $35. While cruising Mexico we installed one on our mast and just left the anchor light switch in the on position. _________________ Dave & Donna
42' Catalina sold
07 Tomcat 255, Patriot sold
42' Catalina Mk II, Legado |
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Sunbeam
Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Posts: 3990 City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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dabfd wrote: | On a side note to those of us that return to our boats at night, Cruising Solutions, offers LED anchor lights that will turn on automatic for around $35. While cruising Mexico we installed one on our mast and just left the anchor light switch in the on position. |
That is a nice feature. I had an older Davis (non LED but low draw for the times) anchor light like that and it was super convenient. Leave the boat at 1 p.m. and not sure if you will be back by dark? Just turn the light "on" and leave it, and it will come on at sunset if you are not back (so many times before in the same scenario, but without the photosensitive light, I'd think I wasn't going to be gone that long, and then have to rush back to turn the anchor light on) (with the older, higher draw bulbs, there was no way I wanted to just turn it on at 1 p.m. just in case!)
Bebi LED anchor lights now also come with the "on at dusk, off at dawn" feature. Apparently it's done in a different way than my older light was - that's probably a good thing as the photosensitive part of the Davis light was not very reliable (meaning, it worked perfectly until it stopped working altogether, which came too soon).
I don't know if very many 22 folks use their boats in that way, but if you can use it, then - combined with the low draw of LED - I, too, found it a very handy feature!
Sunbeam |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12632 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 1:05 am Post subject: |
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Just ordered from Marinebeam. After talking with Jeff, (and we were both surprised at the insides of my Perko Nav Lights) his recommendation was the FS-31-04 31mm Festoon in Red and Green, used on the appropriate sides. At $10 each I have spent more than that for replacement bulbs since I bought the boat.
Jeff at Marinebeam was very helpful, as was this sight. Thanks Roger, Sunbeam and everyone else. I will pass on how the 31,, bulbs work out.
FYI, the 31mm festoon bulb is in a Perko 0120/0170 according to my measurements. I have not talked to Perko yet, but intend to find out if they actually put 2 different systems out and if there is a way to tell. Also, if the chromed brass "Lens and Shield assembly" will fit onto the light unit I have. Might be a worth while upgrade.
To be continued........
Harvey
SleepyC |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12632 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 2:28 am Post subject: |
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The Marinebeam LEDs came in the mail Friday... I went to put them on the boat tonight...... and they are too short.
Boy do I have egg on my face and some straightening up to do. The FS-42-30C Green or Red for $25 each are cone-end. LED Festoon replacements for Perko 0120 or 0170 as listed earlier in this thread. They are 42mm (1-5/8" or 1-11/16") and I messed up because I did not find a metric ruler and measure the Perko fitting itself. Being leaf spring fitting, they appeared to close together to get the 42 mm bulbs in between.
So now I stepping back and reordering the FS-42-30C Festoon bulbs in the red and green.
I apologize for any confusion I may have caused. Thanks to Sunbeam and Roger and everyone for the extra effort they went to try and help me.
Harvey
SleepyC |
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bridma
Joined: 13 Sep 2011 Posts: 1155 City/Region: Comox
State or Province: BC
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Nomad
Photos: Nomad
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Posted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 3:29 pm Post subject: LED Nav Lights |
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Hi Guys,
I just went on the Marinebeam site to order the TW-GE-15 bulb for my anchor light. First check box said, warm or cool white? I checked cool, because you guys had covered that. Next check box was, single or double contact? Huh, no one mentioned that before! I assume it is "double", but wanted to be absolutely sure before ordering. Is "double" the correct answer?
Martin. |
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Sunbeam
Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Posts: 3990 City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
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Posted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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I looked that up a week or so ago. I had found out that the Perko anchor light fixture itself varied over the years in terms of being "two or three wire," so I figured that maybe the bulb contacts were not all the same either (not an electrical expert but just didn't want to assume anything on the bulbs). So, I looked at mine (which turned out to be double contact).
What you do is remove the bulb and look at the bottom of it. It will have either one or two raised, silver contact "bumps," which corresponds with single or double contact designation. Note that it's not the two "Frankenstein" lugs on the side, which lock the bulb into the socket, but rather the contact bumps on the bottom.
Here is a page on Marine Beam's site that shows the two:
http://store.marinebeam.com/bapr.html
Sunbeam |
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bridma
Joined: 13 Sep 2011 Posts: 1155 City/Region: Comox
State or Province: BC
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Nomad
Photos: Nomad
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Posted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 7:08 pm Post subject: LED Nav Lights |
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Thank you Sunbeam. You confirmed what I was thinking. The order has now gone in.
Martin. |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12632 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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Just replaced my nav lights with the Marinebeam LED's and found that now I can see inside the fixture, which seems a bit weird. The LED's have cells all the way around so light in 360* instead of just in the needed (122.5* I think it is) so I am wondering about adding some reflectivity behind the LED to get more light into the desired direction.
Picture of lens with LED bulb. Can see the internal parts of the fixture.
[img]http://www.c-brats.com/albums/album1819/40_G.jpg[img]
Picture of nav light with an incandescent bulb in place. Cannot see the internal parts.
So I am wondering if it would it be a good idea to place a reflective material behind the LED to increase the intensity of the outward going light. (The material I was thinking of is crinkled up and then flattened aluminum foil, glued into the fixture to avoid shorting anything out, and stuck in with double stick tape or 4200.
I have not checked whether mine are visible at 2 miles out yet.
Harvey
SleepyC |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12632 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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OK, I'm not getting the image transfer done right. The one I was trying to bring in to the previous post is the one from page one of this thread, the 4th image down....
Sorry.
Harvey
SleepyC |
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