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Anchor Locker Drain
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ripple



Joined: 07 Feb 2007
Posts: 65
City/Region: Mill Valley
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Ripple
Photos: Ripple
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2007 6:52 pm    Post subject: Anchor Locker Drain Reply with quote

I have a 2006 22 cruiser that does not have a drain installed by the factory for the anchor locker. I just installed a hawse pipe in the deck today but I want to make sure the water that leaks into the locker will drain overboard. Can anyone tell me where it should go or post pictures showing the location that the factory installs the drain?

Thanks...
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Midwatch



Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 18
City/Region: Port Angeles
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Midwatch
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2007 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have a 22' 2006 as well, but with the anchor locker drain factory installed. It is about a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the locker on the port side. Where the hole comes through the hull there is a stainless steel clamshell installed on the outside with the opening facing aft. Don't forget to seal any holes you drill!
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2007 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know about the 2006 models, but the earlier boats had to have a sleeve (tube) connecting the inner anchror rode locker with the outside opening in the hull. There was a space between the two fiberglass structures. Without the sleeve, the water just drained into the flotation chamber under the v-berth.

The sleeve or tube could be metal or rigic plastic, but must be sealed well on both ends.

Ken McCollough used a .32 caliber pistol casing for his sleeve.

It would be nice to flare both ends of the tube, but there's no easy way to flare the tube's second end once it's installed, unless you have a suitable cone shaped tool and a person on both the inside and outside of the hull so that the tube can be held rigidly (backed up) on one end and pounded with the flaring cone tool on the other.

It would also be possible to use two tubes, one of which would fit inside the other, and insert them from opposite ends after flaring them one one end.

The most important thing would be to seal the tube up as well as possible.

Probably 3M 5200 would be best for the job if applied liberally and carefully.

MarineTex 2-part epoxy could also be used.

Joe.

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Lake Shasta, California

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Cutty Sark



Joined: 11 Dec 2004
Posts: 462
City/Region: Kenmore, Sammamish Slough
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1989
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: TBD
Photos: Cutty Sark
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I noticed over the weekend that my 2006 cruiser didn't have a drain hole either, and mine was ordered with the hawse pipe installed, I'm surprised the factory didn't put a drain in. I'll have to look at soeone else's installation to see where they put it, and go ahead and do it now that I have all my gound tackle. Anyone have some detailed pics?

Sark
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drjohn71a



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 1820
City/Region: Wichita
State or Province: KS
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Tom-a-Hawk
Photos: Tom-a-Hawk
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sark, you need to search this site and the old C-Dog site. I remember having seen detailed photos of this fix.

John
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Forty Two



Joined: 16 Nov 2004
Posts: 114
City/Region: Prince William Sound
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2017
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Black Cat
Photos: Barrel O Monkeys
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Our 2004 TomCat showed up without a drain hole. I noticed this and pointed it out to the dealer. The dealer drilled a hole at a low point in the anchor locker, and installed a clam shell on the exterior of the boat. They did not seal the hole, and they managed to drill too far aft and tapped into the storage space beneath the bunk. We were collecting a couple of gallons of salt water in the storage space each time we encountered bumpy water.

This spring, I drilled the hole out to about an inch in diameter, filled the hole with fiberglass epoxy, then drilled a new 3/8" drain hole, sealed the clam shell screw holes, and re-installed the clam shell. I hope to test it out next week.

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Forty Two



Joined: 16 Nov 2004
Posts: 114
City/Region: Prince William Sound
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2017
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Black Cat
Photos: Barrel O Monkeys
PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It works!!!

Went through some very bumpy water for several hours, and not a drop in the storage space.
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fishbob-

Good Job!

I can understand how an average boatowner could have make the mistake of drilling straight though the hull and anchor locker without knowing of the need for a sleeve or solid filler placed between the two, but a C-Dory dealer?

Glad you've got it working!

Joe.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 12:06 pm    Post subject: raising the locker floor Reply with quote

SleepyC has a drain hole. It seems to be drilled through solid fiberglass material, with no tube in place. So this weekend, I am replacing the clamshell cover, due to a "reshaping incident" last fall and decided to get up into the rhode locker and I found that the towel in the bottom of the locker was wet, (boat has been stored outside but with a cover on, and the anchor has not been deployed since early last summer.) When running the chain out, there were places where it looked salt encrusted, and the drain hole is about 3/4 inch up from the bottom of the locker.

I have read of some fixes here, but still curious if raising the locker floor level is practical, or if it would be better to just drill a new anchor drain hole. (Maybe using the existing external hole and redirecting it.)

Comments please and thankyou.

Harvey
SleepyC

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starcrafttom



Joined: 07 Nov 2003
Posts: 7882
City/Region: marysville
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1984
C-Dory Model: 27 Cruiser
Vessel Name: to be decided later
Photos: Susan E
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey, It lookas if I have to do the same thing. My current drain hole is a inch off the floor of the chain locker. I plan to drill ( gives me chills thinking about it) a new hole on the other side with a second clam shell.

I will start fron the inside out with a small drill. Then move to the out side and drill in with larger and larger drills to the right size. I will be doing it later today. wish me lock.

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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

starcrafttom wrote:
Harvey, It lookas if I have to do the same thing. My current drain hole is a inch off the floor of the chain locker. I plan to drill ( gives me chills thinking about it) a new hole on the other side with a second clam shell.

I will start fron the inside out with a small drill. Then move to the out side and drill in with larger and larger drills to the right size. I will be doing it later today. wish me lock.


I'm thinking the drain hole is 1' above the floor because of the rounded curvature of the locker floor. Drilling it above the floor avoids going through the void between the outer wall and the curved corner of the locker compartment.

If I'm right and you drill into the corner and void, you'll have a much more difficult time, because you'll have to install a tube between the walls, seal it properly, etc. This has been doable in the past, but requires some careful work.

IMHO, it would be a lot easier to just fill up the bottom 1' of the locker and use the existing drain hole. The bottom could be filled with a form fitted piece of styrofoam, then easily glassed over.* Fine finishing wouldn't be necessary. Who looks inside your locker compartment and inside drain hole opening anyway, the Boat Colonoscopist? This assumes you don't absolutely need the 1" of space because of the size of your rode.

Another way would be to drill the hole in the floor of the existing locker, install a flange fitting with a threaded shaft to lock it in place, the connect a flexible tube from that fitting to a similar fitting on the existing hull wall, and cover it with the clamshell or one large enough to hide the fitting.

Of course, the exact solution swill depend on the peculiarities of how your set-up fits together and what types of work you feel good at and like to do.

I remember our friend of New Mexico used a .38 caliber shell casing as a tube to connect the locker with the outer hull wall a few years back!

*The styrofoam has to be coated with something before the resin hits it, or it will "melt" when the resin hits it. They used to use white wood glue, but I'm guessing there's a newer, better way to coat it.

Have fun with it!

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up
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Capital Sea



Joined: 16 Dec 2007
Posts: 425
City/Region: Olympia
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Capital Sea
Photos: Capital Sea
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stop. Don't drill another hole.
I had the same issue as the drain was not at the lowest point and the hole was not sealed either. I cut a piece of old cutting board to fit the shape of the bow and sized it so when fixed in place the locker drains every drop out the existing drain. I then glassed it into place. As the resin set up, it was necessary to keep the drain open and wipe off the hull below the drain on the outside.
The net loss of storage space was not enough to worry about.

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starcrafttom



Joined: 07 Nov 2003
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City/Region: marysville
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1984
C-Dory Model: 27 Cruiser
Vessel Name: to be decided later
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking of pouring in a leveling compond like you would use to level the floor before putting down tile. Anyone have any ideas on this??
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

starcrafttom wrote:
I was thinking of pouring in a leveling compond like you would use to level the floor before putting down tile. Anyone have any ideas on this??


Sounds like a good, simple idea!

But I'd call the factory rep at the manufacturer making the product and see if it would set up in a 1" thickness in a reasonable amount of time. It might skim over, cure slowly underneath, and stink you out of the V-berth for a month or two. Maybe anyway....

AND, you'd have a nervous breakdown from not satisfying your fishing addiction!!!Laughing

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up
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Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
Posts: 7313
City/Region: Cod Creek>Potomac River>Chesapeake Bay
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Captain's Choice II
Photos: Captain's Cat
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sea Wolf wrote:
starcrafttom wrote:
I was thinking of pouring in a leveling compond like you would use to level the floor before putting down tile. Anyone have any ideas on this??


Sounds like a good, simple idea!

But I'd call the factory rep at the manufacturer making the product and see if it would set up in a 1" thickness in a reasonable amount of time. It might skim over, cure slowly underneath, and stink you out of the V-berth for a month or two. Maybe anyway....

AND, you'd have a nervous breakdown from not satisfying your fishing addiction!!!Laughing

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up


You can always fill the water tank again and have Susan pump it out! whle you wait for it to set up!! Shocked

Not a good idea BTW! Rolling Eyes

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