Planar Heater

Doug Moody · Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 5:36 pm Post subject: Planar Heater

We definatley need to put a heater in our 22' Cruiser. The AK "summers" are very damp. We tried the Mr. Buddy, but creates too much moisture. I realize the options are Espar, Wesabo etc... Does anyone have any experience with the Planar heaters? I see it is a product developed as a joint venture between a US and Russian firm.

It looks like the entire unit can be purchased for $550 plus shipping. The few product reviews are very posititve. The online manual also looks thorough.

Any info would be helpful.

Thanks!

starcrafttom · Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:30 pm Post subject:

Look a LOT like a Espar. I installed a espar last year for around $900 total. We just love it It really heats the cabin in a hurry with nice dry hot air.

thataway · Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:15 pm Post subject:

I would spend the extra dollars for a proven Espar unit. There have been years spent working out the bugs of this technology. There is too much of a risk of CO accumulation from a unit (even diesel produces carbon monoxide)

The information for the unit:
"When installing this unit the heater must be positioned so that the exhaust, air intake, and fuel intake are facing down and bolted in tightly.
Fuel pump must ALWAYS be positioned vertically with arrow pointing upward.
When exhaust pipe is installed it must be positioned so that it is NOT blowing against the flow of wind."

OK bolting it down, etc, but not blowing against the flow of the wind???
That makes me think that this is not a forced draft (blower) unit for the fire box, and back drafting is a real potential issue. This is also a safety issue.

Finally the some Russian products are OK--but some are not. Again, too many risks.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:33 pm Post subject:

I concur with Bob:

The Espar and Webasto units are proven products engineered and built in Germany and used for many years on school and other passenger busses as well as trucks.

Parts are also available now and for the foreseeable future, as is technical assistance from the manufacturer and importer.

Go with a proven winner!

Joe. Teeth

Doug Moody · Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 12:38 am Post subject:

Appreciate all of the prompt responses. I guess I got turned off by the Espar heaters due to a quote of $1999 for a Espar 2 with full marine mounting components here in Anchorage. Any suggestions of a reputable dealer in the lower 48 that has respectable service?

Starcrattom, where did you buy your heater from? Did you purchase all the through hull fittings and other marine specific goodies?

mmitchell · Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:59 am Post subject:

Doug
Advanced Diesel sells the espar heaters here in Anchorage.
Buy Alaska for Alaskans

Captains Cat · Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 6:50 am Post subject:

Doug, ever wonder why Russian Diplomats are driving Mercedes and Cadillacs and not ZILs? Mechanical and reliability reasons mostly and safety too..at least until the ZIL factory starts putting armor on them. Disgust

Be safe, your life is worth more than $$$.

Charlie

Discovery · Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:31 am Post subject:

Doug,

Watch Ebay for Webasto or Espar heaters. Buy from a truck supply dealer, then order the few boat related items elsewhere.

I bought a truck kit for $700 and the other parts for $200 or less. I did the install on the TomCat.

thataway · Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 12:06 pm Post subject:

Right now on E Bay there are several Espar units in the $850 to $900 range, You will have to buy the air intake, exhaust discharge (thru the side of the boat--some are combined units). A small tank--like the walls stove tank, or even 3 gallon outboard motor tank--and you should be good to go. (with some innovation on mounting etc)...

I built my own hydronic system, using ProHeat truck parts , computer fans and small radiators, separate thermostats in each cabin on a larger boat. Worked great--and is currently in a larger boat (was about 45,000 BTU) still working well, over 20 years since building it out!

starcrafttom · Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 1:04 am Post subject:

As others said I shopped ebay and found a new unit from a truck dealer ( cant remember the name) then I bought the other parts locally. If you are going to order the thru hulls and other parts I would call Sure Marine in Seattle and not boat Electric , which is the Espar dealer. Boat Electric is over priced and has yet to learn about customer service IMHO.

For everyone= I just read that wallas has a new thru hull that works in the wind a lot better. I hope to look at it at the boat show.

Will-C · Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 12:10 pm Post subject: Planar Heater

You might consider a Wallas DC 30 heater from Scan Marine. We have an Espar which you can find on Ebay etc. The Espar D-2 is a little noisey almost like a miniture jet engine. It works well and after a couple years it has worked without a failure. Some quoting cost of heater and installs might be somewhat misleading as they may have removed a Wallas cooktop/heater. They start out a head of the game as they might already have had a fuel tank and a through hull for the exhaust. On the home page look under recent photo activity at the man cave album. Pictured there is a DC 30 Wallas looks like a clean install,but I don't know the cost.
D.D.

starcrafttom · Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 12:52 pm Post subject:

My install was not to replace the wallas, dont have one. Its a simple lay out really. You have the main parts. Heater,, tank, thermostat, combustion air intake, burned air exhaust, cool air intake and heated air vents. The big challenge is figuring where you are going to put everything. Think about it and then think about it again. Can you get to it easily? can you get to the tank and fill it or remove it to fill. Can I reach the control unit from the wheel? from the berth when whinny wife said its to cold to hot? Where is the fuel pump and can you get to it? if it leaks what will get fuel on it? will the exhaust burn the dock or my trailer? will the exhaust port hit the trailer guides? or will it burn the lines or fenders? Just sit in the boat and think about it.

Ok here are my thoughts on the air flow. The install instructions ( written for a truck or bus) call for the air, both combustion and heated, to be brought from the out side. I choose to have them both brought from the inside. Lot less trouble for the install and I believe that it keeps the cabin drier by pulling all the moisture out of the boat and either heats it or burns it off. The heated air pick up is close to the floor pulling all the heavy cold air off the floor. My cool air combustion intake is also on the floor but behind a cabinet. You can feel the air and the cabin getting drier when the heat is one. I saw no reason to drill two more holes in the side of the boat just for these air intakes. I only have the one thru hull for the combustion exhaust.

Don't waste money on a fuel tank from sure or scan marine. I just modified a cheap red 5 gallon (?) plastic gas can I had in the garage. Why? cause I am cheap that's why. And is way fun and easy. All the parts where on the kit or on the can I just swapped out the parts I needed from each to get what I wanted. works great.

The one thing I did not install ,but will be doing this winter, is a water drain for the exhaust line. In really bad weather you can get water in this line from a large wave. I have a U in the line but no drain. water cant get tot the unit but if water is in the exhaust the unit cant create enough pressure to push the water out and it will not light.

I hope this helps you when it comes time to install your unit.

Doug Moody · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 2:30 am Post subject:

Espar it is! Thanks for talking me off the Planar cliff. Now where to put it in the boat. That is what the long winters are for.

Truly appreciate all of you responses!

Rick from Maine · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:16 am Post subject:

Is there any reason that the Espar unit can't be installed in the cockpit under a coaming locker, in a weatherproof case? I know there would be some heat loss from the outside duct to the cabin. An outside install could have minimal impact on interior arrangements. Port side installation could allow a duct to run into the cabin above the water tank and further fwd along the side thru the locker to the berth area (don't know if it could work with barber chair).

Rick from Maine

starcrafttom · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 4:30 pm Post subject:

Rick, No no reason at all. I gave a lot of thought to building a seat/storage box against the back wall of the cabin and installing the unit there. In the end I found a better place for me to put it in the cabin. You know a small box attached to the ceiling over the stove would work well to. Its all up to the owner and his use. I have thought about moving mine to the other side of the cabin under and behind the cook top. We will see.