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Question about Raymarine/Raytheon Sportpilot
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Sunbeam



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BrentB wrote:
Can the unit come apart?
It looked snapped together


I guess that's what I'm going to find out. I mean, it looks like it's in two halves, and it must have gone together in the first place, so I guess the trick is probably going to be getting plastic parts to un-snap without... snapping off. I will probably call Raymarine first, just to see what they say.

At the moment I'm (also) preparing to install new lazarette hatches, and I've just set up to fill in the edges and fastener holes with epoxy. Also, the holes were too wide along one edge for good placement, so I'm narrowing down that side with some glass/epoxy. I want to get that done before I work on the autopilot. Trying to take apart the Sportpilot should be fun in comparison (of course, what isn't? Cry)
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starcrafttom



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a differant question. Will the sport pilot work on a steering wheel with tilt? if so can I have yours Rick?
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Sunbeam



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A contact with Raymarine produced an exploded diagram of the autopilot, and the information that the sloppiness is not a "known" problem with a known solution. Also, Raymarine no longer has any parts for the Sportpilot (not a surprise).

The diagram does show how to take the Sportpilot apart, although it does not show any internal detail of the part that seems to be causing the sloppiness (but, maybe something will reveal itself upon disassembly).

I'll photograph and post the diagram later so that others can reference it.

Sunbeam
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BrentB



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sunbeam wrote:
BrentB wrote:
Can the unit come apart?
It looked snapped together


I guess that's what I'm going to find out. I mean, it looks like it's in two halves, and it must have gone together in the first place, so I guess the trick is probably going to be getting plastic parts to un-snap without... snapping off. I will probably call Raymarine first, just to see what they say.

At the moment I'm (also) preparing to install new lazarette hatches, and I've just set up to fill in the edges and fastener holes with epoxy. Also, the holes were too wide along one edge for good placement, so I'm narrowing down that side with some glass/epoxy. I want to get that done before I work on the autopilot. Trying to take apart the Sportpilot should be fun in comparison (of course, what isn't? Cry)


Good luck
I understand
I replaced the glass screen on an iTouch by watching a Youtube video

Maybe there is one for SportPilot

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BrentB



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sunbeam wrote:
A contact with Raymarine produced an exploded diagram of the autopilot, and the information that the sloppiness is not a "known" problem with a known solution. Also, Raymarine no longer has any parts for the Sportpilot (not a surprise).

The diagram does show how to take the Sportpilot apart, although it does not show any internal detail of the part that seems to be causing the sloppiness (but, maybe something will reveal itself upon disassembly).

I'll photograph and post the diagram later so that others can reference it.

Sunbeam


thanks!
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BrentB



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

starcrafttom wrote:
I have a differant question. Will the sport pilot work on a steering wheel with tilt? if so can I have yours Rick?


It should. Mine attaches to the end of steering shaft as seen in the pics then add the spacer for the wheel
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c-ness



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is not a solution, but I found that when I replaced the sport pilot with a s1000 that I had much more room at the helm without that bulky device. Really much more room.
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416rigby



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sent you a PM, Tom.
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Sunbeam



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

c-ness wrote:
This is not a solution, but I found that when I replaced the sport pilot with a s1000 that I had much more room at the helm without that bulky device. Really much more room.


I'm considering that as an option if I can't get the slop out of the Sportpilot. The only "problem" is that since I have cable steering, I would also have to change to hydraulic steering (and the cable is working fine). Not necessarily a deal-breaker, but just one of those "the plot thickens" sort of things.

One feature I might appreciate is that with the non-Sportpilot autopilots, as I understand it, the wheel does not move (spin) when the pilot is working (which it does with the Sportpilot).

Here is a copy of the exploded Sportpilot/+ diagram from Raymarine. (I had to shrink it to post it in my album; PM me if you need a larger copy.) It seems like the slop is coming from part #6, which is the part just left of the center of the diagram that sort of looks like a vehicle wheel rim with four holes.

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Captains Cat



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sunbeam wrote:
Thanks for your responses. On the one hand, great, it's not how they all are. On the other hand, huh, I wonder why mine is that way, since it's hardly been used. I did think it would be pretty weird if they were all like that and people just accepted it.

I've copied in Brent's photo: The part where you can see a brass ring with slots and then holes behind it is where the slop is on mine. Mine looks the same in general. The boss that attaches to the four holes is tight and there is no slop on the boat's steering shaft at all. The problem seems to be within that brass ring/slots section.



On your Sportpilot(s) with no slop, does the part with the slots move independently (in a clock-like plane) from the part just behind it that has the holes? Mine seems to, but also it seems like something that may be supposed to happen when the pilot is working.

Perhaps I'll take mine apart (the tombstone shaped part) to see if there is something loose behind the brass ring with the slots.

Thanks,
Sunbeam


Just a thought... Is there any way to temporarily "block" that slot in the picture? Try putting something in there that stops the thing from sliding back and forth in the slot. Not sure why the slots are there.. Maybe they are "slop slots"? Mr. Green

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BrentB



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for diagram

Ahhh there are screws in the back. easilier from iTouch
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Sunbeam



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update on my Sportpilot, which was giving the steering wheel on my 22 Cruiser a very annoying amount of side-to-side slop. I think the problem has been found and can be fixed. Yay! I won't be able to find out for sure until I launch, but what was found seemed wrong and allowed slop, which then went away when it was corrected. So here's hoping it fixes my Sportpilot and also the other folks' who have the same problem.

So, to review, here is what you see once you remove the wheel/nuts/steering boss (referenced in drawing in first post). This photo is Brent's Sportpilot+, but what you see at this point looks the same as on my Sportpilot. The part we are interested in is the brass "wheel" you see, which is labeled as part #6 on the exploded diagram I posted partway through the thread.



First, remove the Sportpilot from the steering column (on mine that was accomplished by removing the wheel/nuts/Sportpilot steering boss, and then one athwartships screw at the center hinge of the torque bracket ("flamingo leg" bracket that attaches bottom of Sportpilot to helm bulkhead). Note that the manual recommends you have the helm hard over to starboard and that you don't "brace" against the Sportpilot when you loosen/tighten the steering-shaft nuts - just let it spin around and let the end of the steering travel stop it.

Once the Sportpilot is removed, you'll have the entire black tombstone-and-stalk unit in your hands, with part #6 showing just as it is in Brent's photo above in this post. If you turn the Sportpilot over, you'll see six deep black holes in the plastic case - each one holds a hex screw that takes a 3mm hex wrench. Once those are out you can "crack" the Sportpilot in half and get part #6 out (there are wires and etc. still so don't just pull it apart with abandon - I just separated it enough to extract #6.

Here is part #6 "right-side up" on the table (in other words the part that faces you when you are at the helm is the "top"). I added some descriptive text to the photos - it may be a bit hard to read but I figured that way if people saved the photos they would have the pertinent info right on them. I'll repeat it here in the post though.



If you turn part #6 over, there is a black plastic, toothed ring that you can pull off. It's indexed so it can only go back on in one orientation.



There are three small screws on the "back" of the brass part. On my Sportpilot these were loose. By putting two of the case screws (same size) into the "front" of part #6 and using them as handles, I was able to tug on this part and recreate the side-to-side slop that I felt in the wheel (and let's hope it was all coming from this - I think it probably was...).


These three screws can be tightened with a 1/16" hex wrench. Once they were tightened part #6 passed the "tug test" with nearly no slop - very different from when they were loose. This is the stage I'm at now. Normally I wouldn't post until I had completed a repair and tested it, but I won't have it tested right away, and since there were other people who, like me, were about to rip the thing out and get rid of it just to alleviate the slop. I figured I'd post the information I have now.

I think I'm going to use some Locktite on these three screws, and then also check to see if I need to lubricate the Sportpilot unit at all (there was a small amount of grease on various parts that I wiped off with towels in order to work on it - although no fluid like you see in Brent's photo).

Sunbeam Hot
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Sunbeam



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Captains Cat wrote:
[
Just a thought... Is there any way to temporarily "block" that slot in the picture? Try putting something in there that stops the thing from sliding back and forth in the slot. Not sure why the slots are there..


Just to clarify, the slop in the steering wheel was not in the plane of those slots, which would be moving in a circular way, like a clock's hands. So it was not like "loose steering" in a car, where you can turn the wheel left or right quite a ways before actual steering occurs. The problem was 90º to that -- it was a rocking motion. If I put my hands on the wheel in the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and I alternately pulled and pushed on those spots (forward and aft), the wheel would rock.
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BrentB



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

excellent writeup Sunbeam

The solution seen in my photo is either WD-40, spray silcone, PB Blaster, brake fluid or a few other lubicants. We had a difficult time removing the ap from the helm shaft
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Sunbeam



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BrentB wrote:
The solution seen in my photo is either WD-40, spray silcone, PB Blaster, brake fluid or a few other lubicants. We had a difficult time removing the ap from the helm shaft


Thanks for letting me know. Mine was not too hard to get off originally, but after tightening the main nut to ~25 ft. lb, as recommended (hoping that would fix the problem), it was a bit of a wrangle to take it back off. It did come off by using a modified socket extension as a sort of drift on the shaft (after loosening the nut of course) and giving it some healthy hammer "taps" while also pulling steadily on the autopilot.
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