drilling in cockpit of CD16Cruiser

rjmcnabb

I want to install an external socket in the cockpit so I can plug Luna into 110V shore power. The trouble comes when I have a hole made (about 3cm) and no way to get behind it. The places I might use are all out of reach to me unless I want to remove about all the interior liner from that side of the boat. The liner that covers foam flotation (and the electrical chase) in the cockpit side also enters the cabin to provide side wall covering in the cabin and form the cabinet for the seat mount on that side. It is one bodacious molding and there is no way I am ever going to take that loose.
I will have the same problem when I try to install any fixtures on the coamings: how do I get in there to place washers, nuts, backing plates, etc??
Cool

The only solution I see right now would be to install a large inspection port at some central place, then remove the flotation behind so that I can get to the back of the liner and the coaming. That might mean a couple of inspection ports per side. Help! Please? Idea

Thanks, Rod

ghone · Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:01 pm Post subject:

Hi there are you wanting 110 volt aboard for shore power ie battery charger, heater lighting etc? The simple way for smaller boats is to use a gfi circuit breaker equiped power strip from staples or home depot. Good for 15 amp power cords with no holes in the boat. Attaching hardware with no acces is done with epoxy bonding techniques. Thataway Bob has great tutorial on it. Basicly overdrill, undercut and fill. Redrill and install with thickened epoxy on screws or bolts let cure. Pick boat up by the new hardware. The unlimited hydros in washington could not keep engines tight until they started epoxy bonding the fasteners. Now they can pick them up by the engine if they choose. If you ever want to debond, heat fastener with soldering gun till epoxy gets hot enough to let go. 145f ish

rjmcnabb · Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 5:22 pm Post subject:

Hi George,
Thanks for your thoughts. What I want to use (and already have) is a weatherized flush mount outlet plate that accepts the female end of a std. extension cord. The plate mounts through a 3 cm hole in the desired surface (cockpit side wall.) I want to pass a power cord from there into the wiring chase and bring the the cord into the cabin, where the GFI guarded outlets will be near the table, but can be stuck into the chase for storage. Fifteen amps and three outlets should do; I want to keep down interior clutter. This boat is set up so that each side has a 2-3 inch pipe concealed in each side wall. They run from under the splash well forward to below the dashboard, and on the steering wheel side serve for motor control cables, wiring, etc. Very slick.
The situation still leaves me with coaming-mounted fittings to handle. I was assuming that down rigger mounts would need a backing plate behind the mount for strength. What you describe would only allow screws to be used to attach the mount. Same with rod holder/pot puller-base.
Regards,
Rod

sweet pea · Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:30 pm Post subject:

I moved all of my electric (2 batteries, battery switches, on-board charger) under the port side passenger seat. I know that isn't your project, but to do so, I had to run wiring down the port side.

I ran an electrical fish down the port side, then pulled my wires from aft to the port passengers seat. Prior to running the "fish" I used a 1/2" piece of CPVC pipe to act as a Styrofoam drill. Actually it was more like a star drill you use with a hammer. It made a nice channel to run the wire fish through. Also there isn't any other electrical on that side to destroy during the installation.

My point is, that is where I drilled for the "external socket" to connect to power so I could utilize the charger. I drilled the hole on the top left area of the aft side of the port passengers seat. Works well for my application, I am not sure if you could modify your set up to use the same.

sweet pea · Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:59 pm Post subject:

FYI

It really isn't that difficult to drill out the rivets that hold the port side coaming. Then you could run whatever you want, install whatever you want, and make another access port to run future wiring needs. Then you can drill, epoxy, and screw it back in place. As I said, obviously it isn't difficult, just very time consuming.

rjmcnabb · Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 1:56 am Post subject:

Thanks, Sweet Pea, but I am reluctant to remove the cockpit liner. Mine has a string of pop rivets in the cockpit, a string of screws along beneath the windows, and Dog knows how many pop rivets around the bottom of the seat cabinet. Yikes. It is hugely structural and well anchored.
I don't understand why you used your PVC drill, but it sounds ingenious for that styrofoam. I don't need to drill the foam, if I use the built-in chase, which I can access at both ends. My dilemma is wanting to use a wall mounted plug and not use extension cords for everything.
Mounting fittings onto the foaming still is a problem for me.
Regards,
Rod

sweet pea · Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 9:23 am Post subject:

I understand not wanting to remove it.

I made another "path" through the foam because I store a Cajun anchor and 1 spare rod in the port side "chase". I didn't want wiring and storage items sharing the some space if it was preventable.