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kicker port or starboard?

 
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Jake B



Joined: 06 Jun 2012
Posts: 521
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1989
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: PLUS 3
Photos: PLUS 3
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 12:48 am    Post subject: kicker port or starboard? Reply with quote

so I am getting ready to put new power on the dory. the original owner has it set up for the kicker to be on the starboard side.and the swim step is on the port side. I see most boats run them on the port side. but I am not sure of two things clearing the steer bar on the main if on the port side and re-drilling holes for swim step if it is worth it

I am putting a 2006 honda 9.9 electric everything on for a kicker. so I was curious if anyone else runs there kicker on the starboard side and how the weight ect is on it. just seems like a lot of weight especially since batteries are in the starboard hach as well.

eventually trim tabs will be on boat and that will help a lot if off balanced but my main concern is one or two guys in boat with all the weight on the one side.
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ferret30



Joined: 22 Mar 2011
Posts: 569
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Lily Pad
Photos: Lily Pad
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My preference would be to move the batteries to port, leave the swim step on port, and have the kicker starboard. There are 3 reasons I'd do this:

1) the port side is easier to climb in and out of since you don't have all your gas/electrical/hydraulics crossing the part of the splash well you'd climb through.

2) many kickers (i believe) have tillers set up such that you have more steering range if the kicker is on the starboard side (so the handle must be on the port side of the motor).

3) you're already got it set up like this.

Moving both batteries to starboard side would greatly help with canceling out the kicker, and rewiring should be a lot cheaper than gelcoat repair of the old holes.

Also, to counter the weight of the driver when running solo, you can use the water tank as ballast.

I've got a kicker and swim step ready to install (just need to get it out of the water) and I'm doing step on port, kicker on starboard.
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Jake B



Joined: 06 Jun 2012
Posts: 521
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1989
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: PLUS 3
Photos: PLUS 3
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks,
yeah I was thinking of moving batteries as an option as well. had not thought of the water tank option either., but I think I will look into moving batteries. as I am re-wiring the whole boat this winter/off season
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Wandering Sagebrush



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
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City/Region: Northeast Oregon
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Constant Craving
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Ferret30. Honda tillers are on the left, so you get more range out of them when you mount the engine to the right of the main. I put the house battery in the port fish locker, left the starting battery on the right. With a full load of water, it balances nicely.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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City/Region: Pensacola
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C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree with above, and we have always put our small kickers on the Stb side.
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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
1) the port side is easier to climb in and out of since you don't have all your gas/electrical/hydraulics crossing the part of the splash well you'd climb through.

2) many kickers (i believe) have tillers set up such that you have more steering range if the kicker is on the starboard side (so the handle must be on the port side of the motor).


Ditto. Also cuts down on the distance any needed fuel lines/battery cables etc must cross.

I even removed the step & patched the holes to do it. That's how much I agree.

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G Gallagher



Joined: 14 Feb 2010
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C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Reel Salty
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 8:37 pm    Post subject: new kicker motor Reply with quote

Here's a thought.
Since you are repowering your kicker why not buy an electric start, with power controls from the helm( of course it is more expensive) and install conecting rod to main motor from kicker (about $65 ) so you can steer from helm.

If you do not have hydraulic steering on your main it is a welcome addition -there are several brands , but Sea Star is a good one.

It makes all the difference in the world.

I,m just trying to stimulate the economy with your bucks, bu you would love it.

My 2 cents worth.

Gary

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Jake B



Joined: 06 Jun 2012
Posts: 521
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1989
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: PLUS 3
Photos: PLUS 3
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the responses.

and my 9.9 kicker is electric start with controls and I have the connecting bar as well Wink I have had this set up for a while now and will not go back.
with this set up I am trying to see how I will get two sets of controls in the cabin as it sits theres room for only one.

I do not have hydraulic steering but it is near the top of my list just below radar and rocket launcher. once I get that on board I will be adding a cockpit Helm as well for easier fishing with one or two guys. but in reality its probably a year or two out for that one. hoping to have radar added this winter and possibly launcher.

I was more concerned with weight rather than tiller travel. but it looks like starboard it is.
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