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cbadmin



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 11:48 pm    Post subject: Anchor Rigging Reply with quote

From: Richard (Original Message) Sent: 4/6/2003 10:24 PM
I find that the head of the crossbolt on my anchor shackle tends to hang up on the bow roller bail when retrieving anchor unless I manually give the rode a twist to bring the bolt head to the "up" position where it will pass through the bail more easily. I've entertained the idea of using a "quick-link" instead of a shackle since it would present a cleaner profile and be less likely to hang up. My question to those of you who've been around is this: Is there a reason why I've not seen others do this? Is there something inherently unwise about using a quick-link in this situation that is escaping me at the moment? They seem to be available in strengths equal to the rode and they're intended for joining two lengths of chain so I don't see why I couldn't use it between the chain and anchor shank. By "quick-link", I'm referring to the type that uses an internally threaded barrel to make the closure. I'd probably use teflon tape or something similar to discourage the barrel from working lose in use. What say?

Richard on TK Grand

From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 10:36 PM
Richard -

That is exactly what I use. I had to go with a couple sizes bigger than the chain to get it into the anchor shank, so it is probably the strongest part of the coupling. Attached to it is an eye-eye swivel, with a lap link between it and the chain. I squeezed the lap link together and put a touch of weld on it to keep it closed.

Those quick links can be secured by using a wrench to give the barrel nut a bit more turn after finger tight. I think the end of the barrel that stays on the threads is crimped so that it won't screw all the way onto the other side.

It works just fine. Go for it.

Mike

From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 10:44 PM
As luck would have it, I even found a picture of the chain-to-anchor connection I use. It's not a real good picture, but it shows your quick link pretty good.

From: Helen_Oİ Sent: 9/11/2003 7:11 PM
I'll soon be using my windlass for the first time and have a question. Am I supposed to do anything to the end of my anchor rope. (tie a knot? mark it with a ribbon 15 ft from the end?) My concern is if I'm anchoring in 70 ft. of water and have 200 ft of anchor rope, I'll be letting out close to 200 ft of line. What do you do to insure that you don't pass out all the rope and lose $250 worth of anchor & rope to the bottom of the river?

Larry S

From: Mike Sent: 9/11/2003 8:12 PM
Larry -

I tied a big old chunk of aluminum on mine. Anything tied to the end that will not start through the hole is fine, but you gotta have something. Some folks put a cleat or eye bolt in the hold to tie the bitter end off, but the blob bigger than the hole works fine.

Another thing I did was tie a ribbon about fifteen feet from the bitter end so I know when it's getting close. I also tied a ribbon on the chain that comes up about a foot before the shank of the anchor gets to the roller when retrieving. That way I know to stop and jog it the rest of the way.

What kind of windlass did you get? I may have something for you.

Mike

From: Helen_Oİ Sent: 9/11/2003 8:30 PM
Mike

Thanks for the info. The factory installed a Simpson-Lawrence Sprint 400 Windlass. I think it's what they call a flush mount type. I wish I could tell you more, but I'm clueless. Have only seen one work before. (On Blue-C)

Larry S

From: Mike Sent: 9/11/2003 9:09 PM
Larry -

Cool. We'll talk about the possibility of a line counter one of these days if you want. It might be a little more difficult to get the switch and magnet installed on the vertical type windlass. But you know what they say - where there's a paper mill, there's a way! Actually, the paper mill is kind of letting me down lately. I only have one of the counter units left, but I do have a couple extra reed switches. Them line counters are skookum, so let me know if you want the last counter saved for you to try. (I guess I will have to encourage the electricians at work to do a little PM tour and replace a few of those counters on the machines.) If we can figure out how to mount the flag, you'll be way ahead of Da Nag on the cost of the thing. He had to shell out 4˘ to get the switch mounted on his horizontal windlass.

Mike

From: Helen_Oİ Sent: 9/11/2003 9:19 PM
Great, that'll give us something to haggle over up at Sequim.

Larry S
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Alyssa Jean



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Helen O, There is a heavy eye in the anchor rode locker (at least C-Dory put one in mine) that you attach the bitter end of the anchor rode too so that you CAN'T run the whole line out the windlass. I also have marked the rode with red heavy ribbon like string at intervals so that I visually can tell how much rode I have out.

Just in the process of ordering a windlass for my 22. Have finally decided on the Simpson Lawerence Horizon 600. Am going to have Les do the install. Mike, if it is not to late I would be interested in your line counter addition.

Now I have to figure out how much 1/2 rode I can get into the locker. Probably raise the sides of the locker. Am replaceing 300' of 3/8 and 25' chain.

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B~C



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 200' of 1/2 & 25' of chain, it overfills the locker...300' of 1/2 would for sure require some side boards
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TyBoo



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The locker in the TyBoo22 held 300' of 1/2" rope and 15' of chain. After it gets wet one time, it packs right down.

You take a look at www.brokenlegdave.com for your anchor rode. They now offer Plastimo brand rope/chain rodes all spliced up with windlass grade rope and chain for a little over half the price for S/L brand. I'll be getting one soon.

Miracle of miracles! I think there is one counter unit left in the world. I have been having trouble finding any more, and the electricians are all starting to hate me, but I do have two of the things at home. I only need one. It will find its way north.

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Helen O



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

David M

Thank you. I found the heavy eye in the anchor rode locker. I'm running 200 ft, of 1/2 rope with 20 ft. of chain and 22 lb anchor. It works really well for holding me on the Columbia, haven't had it slip yet.

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Alyssa Jean



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mike. I will check out the website. I think the 600 takes 1/4 inch HT if I am not mistaken. Will look it up here shortly.
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Mighty Bite



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2004 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick Link should work Ok and feed with out problem thru the roller. I use one of WM's Swivel Anchor connectors. They make provide for a positive link, gives you the swivel action and runs thru the roller great.

To tie off the bitter end of the anchor rode, I have a healthy sized cleat on the under side of bow deck, to the port side and over the rode locker that I tie off to. Works good for me!

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Alyssa Jean



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

300 ft of 1/2 in rope with 15 ft of 1/4 in chain by Plastimo just delivered from Marisafe. About $180 including shipping. All spliced together and ready to go. I spliced in an eye in the bitter end to attach to the bottom of the anchor locker. Having the S/L Sprint 600 installed next week. That will be Anna Leighs 1 Y/O birthday present.
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TyBoo



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plastimo?? Oh no - you didn't buy that stuff, did you?

I have the exact same rode in shipment right now. Same price, too ($180.86 total). I emailed the guy at Dave's Marine to make sure that it was the premium grade at that price, and he assured me it is. The same rode combo from S/L cost me $237 plus shipping at the local marine store for my last boat. I hope this new stuff works as well.

Oh, and I have a little gift for you, David, in my tool box at work. It seems to be the last one of this particular type in the world, so I don't know what we're going to do for Daydream when he goes electric.

Good deal - you'll love the windlass. You said in an earlier post that you were getting the S/L Horizon 600, and this time you said it was the S/L Sprint 600. Isn't the Sprint the vertical model? If that's what you're getting, then the pirze in my toolbox might be harder to make work. Maybe there's hope for Pat, after all!

Whichever model you get, you'l be getting a good one.
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Alyssa Jean



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I was going to go with the 400 at first but decided that beefier was better. Also the 600 has a metal gypsy and tension arm. Or at least a metal arm is going to be available and could be swapped out later. The Sprint just gives a little more room on the top of the deck and protects the motor better as it is below the deck and really doesn't seem to take up much room over the locker. Been looking for a nice stainless anchor swivel on ebay but haven't found one yet. Not sure that I need one actually with the sliding anchor pulley thingy. That sounds real nautical doesn't it?
Thanks for hanging on to the counter switch. Is this just the switch? Do I need a counter also. If this doesnt' fit on the Sprint I will save it for Pat if he gets a Horizon.
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TyBoo



Joined: 23 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David -

I have both the switch and the counter. All you need to find is a strong little magnet to attach to the gypsy. The only trouble might be finding a good spot for the switch and magnet. But it can certainly be done. The thing is fun to play with. Email your mailing address and I will send it up there next week.
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