Homecoming-Back to Lake Barkley/Kentucky Lake Oct. 2011

[onthewater]

We took our boat to the Kentucky Lakes area for a visit in the fall of 2011.

Following is an account:

Friday 10/7 Buzzard Rock Marina (Approximately MM 39.3 Lake Barkley)

Back in the late 90’s we kept our 37’ trawler here for three years. It was a very friendly laid-back spot, and we really enjoyed the time spent here. Just as we moved our boat to Demopolis, AL in final preparation for our Great Loop trip, the marina changed hands. We’d not met Wayne, the “new” owner.

Since this was our first time back, we didn’t know exactly what to expect. Not to worry…it’s still very friendly and laid back! Even with a lot of new construction in the past 12 years, the charm remains.

This time we trailered our 26’ Cape Cruiser Sal Salis Vita in, and launched her at the ramp.

Our kids are all grown up, and involved in different pursuits. Our English Springer Spaniel, Clover passed away nearly three years ago, so many things are different in our lives.

Still…it was easy to close our eyes and imagine how things were the last time we were here. The slip where we kept Nostrum Again is now delegated to PWC dockage . At the time it was the only uncovered slip that would allow us to enter without dropping her mast every time. The water got pretty “skinny” when Lake Barkley was at winter pool, but the bottom was soft and there was no harm done if/when she bottomed out.

Wayne, the new owner checked us in, and his first question asked was “Did you do the loop?” Even though we hadn’t met, he knew our boat, and asked if we still had her. (We don’t. She was sold in 2002). Then he asked about our loop adventure. As we talked about the 18 month, 6,000 mile journey others in the office joined in.

There was a group of 3 bass fisherman down from Indiana for the weekend arranging temporary fishing licenses. One of them apologized for “eavesdropping” but said “How many did you have on your trip?” (My wife and I, three kids aged 6-12, and our Springer Spaniel, Clover). “How did the kids go to school?” (We home schooled, and all of us learned a lot). “Where all did you go?” (The loop, including a three month sojourn to the Bahamas from Abaco to Georgetown, Exumas).

The questions were similar to those raised many, many times before, but it’s been a while since we’d taken them “rapid fire”! The whole point is, where there’s a will, there’s truly a way.

Even though it wasn’t always fun, it was always interesting. It instilled a spirit of adventure, and wanderlust in our kids that serves them well to this day. If we hadn’t gone when we did, the trip probably wouldn’t have been made.

Time is of the essence, and you need to follow your dreams while you can. But, I digress…

Most of the folks we knew at the marina have moved on in one fashion, or another, but our memories were still alive. We used to drive from out home near Branson, MO and “go to the boat” nearly every weekend. We would usually leave late, and arrive later, but boy, was it worth it.

When aboard, we were free from the worries of running a business, and making all those pesky “necessary” decisions. We could enjoy the kids, and watch them grow. There was time to do some of the things that they really enjoyed. It was magic.

After we launched Sal Salis Vita, and parked the truck it was time to “get down to business”! Once settled in a transient slip, with all the lines and connections made, we took the girls on a long walk. It was Friday night, and the place was busy. People were coming and going and conversations flowed. After we fed Maggie and Mallory, it was time to feed us.

There is a café on site, and it smelled good! We took an outdoor table on the upper deck, thinking we’d maybe just do appetizers and a beverage. After perusing the menu it looked too good for just appetizers. Lori ordered a Cobb Salad, and I, a Quesadilla.

We also ordered a couple Corona’s with lime. They were very cold, and went down easy. The stars came out, and it was one of those perfect evenings. Welcome back to Buzzard Rock! Oh, BTW the transient slip fee was $20.00

Saturday 10/8 Eddy Creek Anchorage (Approximately MM 46.6 Lake Barkley)

Following a peaceful night, a leisurely walk and breakfast for all, we topped off the water tank and headed out. We turned up river (the Cumberland River) on Lake Barkley. The next town upstream is Kuttawa, KY. The harbor has a marina, and restaurant called “Rudy’s”. They’re well known for their over-sized Rudyburgers.

Although, there is now a new, bigger restaurant located on shore, it used to be housed in a small floating structure adjacent to the fuel dock. An “infamous” Kentucky Water Patrolman used to spend a LOT of time there.

The Rudyburger and fries were one of our kid’s favorites, and we ate there several times a year. We used to have an 8’ Achillies inflatable, with a 4 hp Johnson OB. It was serviceable when it was just Lori and I, but as our family grew, it became much “less roomy”.

On one particular occasion, we’d had our fill, and went to take the dinghy back to Buzzard Rock. The Water Patrolman stirred from his favorite table, and followed us out. (Uh, oh...) As we boarded the inflatable he stood tall above us on the dock with gleaming knee high leather jack boots, and resplendent uniform, where nothing was out of place.

His first question was “Are all y’all really goin’ to get in that little bitty boat”? (Ah, yes officer). His second question involved the number of PFD’s we had on board. (We had the proper number…whew!). His last comment was “Y’all be careful now, cause we’re watchin’”. (OK officer, we will be).

It was shortly thereafter that we ordered a 12’ Apex RIB inflatable with a 15 hp Suzuki.

They also used to have a seaplane based in Kuttawa Harbor. One year, we all went for a seaplane ride. Our middle son (age 8 at the time) thought it was the coolest things he’d ever done. That 23 year old now has his fixed wing, and helicopter pilot’s license, while working toward his commercial rating on choppers.

Sometimes seemingly "little things" can make a lasting impressions.

Cruising on we passed the “Castle on the Cumberland” (aka the Kentucky State Penitentiary). It does look like a castle from the exterior, but I have no interest in seeing the “inside”.

Incidentally, when we took the seaplane ride the pilot flew over the prison. He pointed out the different color uniforms worn by inmates. Some (wearing blue uniforms) were on death row, and were generally segregated from other prisoners.

A little further up is Eddy Creek. There’s a marked channel that leads up the bay, and you come to a point where things narrow for a highway bridge. For those not “height challenged” (as the air draft is definitely limited) there’s a whole other world past the bridge. We simply could not have gone there with the trawler, but it was no problem for SSV. Several large coves with minimal development await the splash of your anchor. There were essentially no lights ashore, and the stars were spectacular that clear night. We didn’t hear another sound until a few fisherman appeared the following morning.

Sunday 10/9 Lighthouse Landing Marina (Approximately MM 24 Kentucky Lake)

The pups longed for shore in the dinghy, and Lori volunteered to do it “on her own”. There was a whispy fog blowing across the water’s surface, as they disappeared into the "soup". Next thing I heard was a splash, and a laugh, accompanied by an occasional bark. Both dogs are retrievers, (Golden, and Chesapeake Bay) and one of their most favorite things is to go swimming, and chase sticks thrown into the water. Sometimes, their exuberance gets the best of them, and they can’t wait to get to shore before taking the plunge. At approximately 75 pounds a piece, they can be persuasive!

Lori returned pretty wet. She didn’t get dunked, but she might as well have. The pups, on the other hand, were totally soaked!

We dried off, had breakfast, and hauled anchor. Destination: Kentucky Lake.

When we first brought our trawler up the Tenn-Tom Waterway from coastal Alabama, we stayed briefly at the Kentucky Dam Marina. It proved “too big” for our taste, hence the move to Buzzard Rock.

Several times, though, we ran by Lighthouse Landing Marina which was directly across from KDM. It is essentially a sailboat facility.

The location, though, is real close to another land mark in these parts, Patti’s 1880’s Settlement Restaurant. Patti’s reputation goes far and wide. Their specialty is a 2” BBQ ‘d pork chop. Lori loves them, so, it was on our radar!

Lighthouse Landing is a very pretty marina, that also offers numerous rental cabins on the lake front. Everyone there was also very friendly, and helpful. Since there wasn’t much of a breeze, most of the sailboats were in port, but there were a lot of folks around, nonetheless.

We had reservations for Patti’s (strongly recommended) and had a great meal. The portions are way too big, but the food is terrific. We even ordered desert, which is something we rarely do. Yummy.

The pups really enjoyed exploring both the marina, and resort, in addition to walking around the town of Grand Rivers, KY. There is a grocery store a couple blocks away, along with a soft serve ice cream parlor, in addition to Patti’s complex. If you have a chance, it’s a worthwhile visit.

Monday 10/10 Cypress Bay Anchorage (Approximately MM 62.6 Kentucky Lake)

In anticipation of our trip, I asked for suggested anchorages, and Marinas from those who had local knowledge on a couple different boating forums. Several suggested Active Captain, and we did check those out.

A couple people (Joe, and Bill) responded on the Trawler and Trawlering list suggesting myriad places to consider, in and around Cypress Bay, off Kentucky Lake.

We got under weigh about Noon heading south on the main part of the Lake.

There’s a place called “The Quarry” on the eastern bank (Land between the Lakes side) which has gained some notoriety for the “artwork” present. When Kentucky Dam was being built, this is the spot from where the rock for the dam was taken. Eventually, the wall between the quarry, and the lake was removed, and it filled with water. The artwork is more along the lines of graffiti; “Spuds was here”, “Wildcats Rock” or “ Johnny loves Martha”. A couple renderings show more talent, but it was none too impressive. The word is, though, that the partying can be most significant on summer weekends when the number of boats and people increase dramatically. I guess every area has a Party Cove!

When we popped in, lots of bass boats were there, so the fish population must be healthy. The water was deep in the main part of the quarry (well over 100’) and out depth finder indicated many schools of fish, as well.

The main navigation channel on the lake is very well marked as it wanders from side to side, following the old Tennessee River channel. There’s a significant amount of commercial traffic, (mainly tow boats hauling coal), but that’s good as it keeps the facilities (markers/locks/etc.) open and well maintained.

Without commercial interests, the majority of this effort wouldn’t make much sense, and might just go away.

One of the respondents to our inquiry about anchorages was Bill. He sent me several emails, and wished us a good visit, along with his contact phone number if we had any questions.

As we arrived at the Fort Helman light (marker Mile 62.6, entrance to Cypress Bay) there was a pontoon boat with a couple aboard casually cruising around. We slowed to allow them to pass, as we assessed the channel into the bay. The pontoon boat slowed, as well.

Then they headed in our direction, and said “Your name wouldn’t be Bob, would it”? I answered in the affirmative. It was Bill who was there to give us an “update on the situation”. He told us about one of the marinas up the cove that had closed for the season, and how the restaurant hours at the other marina were reduced. He also told us about anchoring in the first little cove off the main lake, and some of the other close-by attractions. It may have just been a coincidence that he and his wife were out that day, but I get the distinct impression that he was looking /waiting for us.

That in itself is remarkable enough, but the real kicker is, Bill had no idea when we would be there, if at all. In my original email I just mentioned the week we’d be visiting. Honestly, we didn’t even know when we’d be there, as our itinerary was , “go where we want, when we want”, with no fixed schedule.

Boaters are, by and large, just really nice people.

We anchored in the little cove, and sat back to toast our arrival! It was a beautiful sunny afternoon, and we just took it all in. After a bit, we launched the dinghy, and took the pups ashore. They had a rollicking good time running up and down, and swimming after thrown sticks.

The one downside to these visits is Maggie, our Golden Retriever’s propensity to “roll” in things she finds on land. In this case, it was mainly dead fish. The worse the smell, the better she likes it! That requires more swimming to rinse away the offending odor. Nothing like an enclosed cabin with a smelly dog sleeping next to you!

Later we BBQ’d dinner and tried to count the stars. There was a gorgeous full moon rising, and it signaled the end of another great day.

Tuesday 10/11 Paris Landing State Park (Mile Marker 66.1 Kentucky Lake)

Interestingly enough, the border between Kentucky and Tennessee runs right through the “center” of Cypress Bay. In fact, the marina near the end of the cove sits in both states!

We took the pups to a different shoreline for their morning romp, where the dead fish count was significantly less, so we all smelled better!

After a leisurely breakfast, and stowing the dink we hauled anchor and made our way to Paris Landing State Park. It is a large development with lots of recreational activities

The marina is modern, and well protected from weather. The staff at the office was very friendly. Sal Salis Vita’s transient fee for one night was $18.20.
There is a lodge with a restaurant, and they were having “Crazy Chicken Tuesday” where a variety of chicken dishes were $7.99 for all you could eat. We opted to eat aboard.

As we sat back, a parade of “loopers” began to arrive. Many boats travel together and spend time at the same anchorages, or marinas. This day there were five trawlers of varying size, and one houseboat. We assisted a couple of the trawlers in their docking, and found they all had the mutual destination of the Naples, FL area. Several of them flew the burgee of the America’s Great Loop Cruiser’s Association. That symbol is only “allowed” when a boat and crew have completed the Loop.

The houseboat was interesting. It was maybe 24’, and an older model with the appearance of many, many miles under her hull. It was “equipped” with lots of “cruising gear” (a full size motorcycle/several anchors of varying shapes and size/a full size back yard Propane Grill/and various pieces of fishing gear and paraphernalia) all tied to the front deck in seemingly random fashion. Perhaps there was a plan behind the disarray, if so, it wasn’t obvious. The important thing is they were out following their dream.

The Captain said they were from Ohio, and their final destination was Mobile Bay. More power to them. (Although, in times past we’ve been on Mobile Bay in less than “Chamber of Commerce” weather, and I don’t think the low freeboard houseboat hull would be an optimum design in those conditions).

We spoke to the lady in the Marina Office about all the bass boats we’d seen. She said the Kentucky Lakes area started seriously promoting bass fisherman to the area a few years back. It was obviously a very successful effort. We live on Table Rock Lake, and there are a lot of bass fishermen at home, but it doesn’t hold a candle to the activity we saw on KL.

Walking through the parking lot at the launch ramp next to the marina we saw trucks with license plates from far, and wide: (NY/PA/ME/MI/MN/OH/SC/GA/IN/WI/FL, and more).

That translates into a big economic boost for the whole area. Pretty remarkable marketing. The pups enjoyed all the new “smells” encountered on their walks, and we covered a lot of ground (which makes them sleep very well).

Wednesday 10/12

We really liked it here, so we decided to stay another day. (Isn’t the absence of a firm float plan wonderful?)

Right across the harbor from the marina is a US Coast Guard station. There were two buoy tenders moored, with lots of “nuns and cans” stacked neatly on deck, and even more in racks on shore. They use a loud speaker to relay orders and information about the day’s activities. We hadn’t paid much attention the day before, but around 0900 there was an urgent sounding message broadcast: “NOW HEAR THIS…All hands on deck…Man overboard…Man overboard…Man overboard”. Wow, we thought, and looked over to see one of the Coastguardsman toss a mannequin into the water from the bow of one of the tenders. Then the loudspeaker said “This is a drill…This is a drill…followed by a repeat of the Man overboard alert.

I’m sure that all military personnel become accustomed to training. I’m also pretty sure it may become sort of monotonous practicing the same drills over, and over again. I would hope, though, if someone was really in the water, that the crew would show a bit more urgency of purpose than displayed this morning.

People seemed to be walking in s l o w motion. It took a good 10 minutes to launch the jon boat stowed on the foredeck of the tender. The coastguardsman attempting this maneuver took a significant amount of time batting away accumulated spider webs in the rigging. There also seemed to be some confusion about starting the launch’s outboard, once the boat finally hit the water.

While all this was taking place, the mannequin floated a significant distance away in the steady breeze. The water wasn’t really cold, but I’m pretty certain hypothermia was becoming a real "danger" to our stalwart mannequin. Eventually he/she was retrieved, and things returned to normal…until the next drill.

NOW HEAR THIS…we’ve struck a submerged object…all hands to your stations for a damage report …all hands…

God bless our service members. They perform some truly miraculous feats. Training is definitely necessary, and pretty interesting to observe from the “other side”.

Our fuel tanks were getting low, so we moved to the fuel dock and put some more premium (ethanol free) gas in SSV. Although we hadn’t seen anyone take on any fuel in our time there, the office manager assured me the gas was fresh. Apparently it was, because we had no issues.

We decided to do some more exploration. With pups in tow, we crossed highway 79 to check things out. We passed campsites, (both primitive, and RV improved) an Olympic size swimming pool, picnic areas, playgrounds, a swimming beach, a rose garden, a large conference center, the Lodge with many hotel rooms , and restaurant. It’s a pretty impressive, well maintained facility. We bought an order of onion rings, and ice tea, while gazing at the water and watching the wildlife play. We probably walked about 4 miles, so the pups were happy to just lay down and rest.

When we finally returned to the boat, a new round of Loopers were arriving. Unlike the trawlers from the day before, these were the “high speed” folks.

A couple large Sea Rays, a Fountain, and an un-named Sportfisher.
These people KNEW how to party!

They started shortly after the last boat was secured, (about 1530) and lasted way past midnight. I bet Lori they wouldn’t be up very early to continue their journey, but I was wrong. They stirred about 0800, and were all underway by about 0900. Impressive endurance.

Thursday (10/13) Moors Resort and Marina (approximately Mile Marker 30 Western Shore Kentucky Lake)

The weather had taken a turn. Overnight it rained off and on, and the wind really piped up. The skies were overcast, and it was cooler than earlier in the week on our morning puppy walk. The dogs didn’t mind.

We had a leisurely breakfast, and slipped the lines about 1030 hours. Our trip back up-lake( north) was much different than the one heading south. The orientation of the lake is mainly north/south on this stretch. The wind was about 20-25 knots, with occasional higher gusts.

With enough fetch, we were heading into 2-3 foot waves with some higher. That wasn’t any problem, as we just slowed down, and SSV took them just fine. The problem was the wind driven spray.

There were times where the spray was traveling the whole length of the boat, and landing aft of the bimini top. There wasn’t much traffic on the lake, apart from an occasional tow, and they also slowed way down (even the southbound ones). There were a couple bass boats flitting about, but the people aboard were totally soaked from the wind driven spray.

We were looking for the channel that went from mid-lake to Moors Resort and Marina. According to the chart it sort of meandered from its’ start, to the western shore. One piece of information that definitely caught our attention involved the history of the dam, and this spot, in particular.

The town of Birmingham was originally located nearby on the Tennessee River. When the Kentucky dam went in, the buildings and houses were demolished, or moved. They did not, however, remove any stairways, foundations, or some chimney “structures”. Since the Lake was headed toward winter pool, there were some areas where the water depth was only two or three feet above bottom. It would be truly unfortunate to find a 2 foot set of concrete steps in three feet of water with the wind driven waves. No problem, you say, just follow the channel. OK…

In the spring of this year there was a lot of flooding, and high water in many areas of the mid-west. The Tennessee River Valley was no exception. That volume of water generated lots more current than usual, taking its’ toll on many aids to navigation. The smaller channels are not maintained by the Coast Guard. Some are state, and some are private.

I’m not sure about the buoys to Moors, but they were surely in need of some maintenance. Several of them were floating “pretty low” in the water, and a couple were simply floating on their sides.

If you’re familiar with the channel, it wouldn’t be a problem, but between the wind, the white caps, and the route’s serpentine nature, it was a challenge to find them.

We still have a pair of Fujinon Image stabilized binoculars from our loop trip. Luckily, that made picking out the marks somewhat easier. We eventually made the marina without incident, and tied up at the fuel dock to see about transient space.

Maggie and Mallory anxiously awaited landfall. As soon as we were within striking distance of the dock, they jumped ship, and ran full speed down the dock. Their joy was enhanced by the peals of laughter from the dock attendant, who thought it was just hilarious. They soon “boarded” a rental pontoon boat that must have smelled like fish, and were promptly leashed. (It was fun while it lasted).

Overnight slip space was $15.00, with 20A electric service.

The attendant directed us to the transient dock, where we tied SSV up. We went to explore. The transient dock is located between two different launch ramps, and adjacent to the fish cleaning station. When the lake level is higher, the cleaned fish remains fall into the water, and I’m sure provide a feast for resident turtles, crawfish, and numerous other creatures.

With winter pool water, there was a rather impressive pile of fish carcasses below the station. It was impressive not only because of the number of fish caught, (which was substantial) indicating recent fishing had been good, but even more so because of the odor produced by the rotting remains. Whew!

The dogs didn’t seem to mind, but for Lori and me, it was quite powerful when the wind blew our way. We fixed dinner, and watched a spectacular full moon rise to the east. We were secure, and it was another great day afloat.

Friday (10/14)

There is a campground associated with Moors that seemed to be filled with semi-permanent , (and some more so) trailers, and fifth wheelers. There weren’t many people around, but there didn’t seem to be any open spaces. I suspect it’s a lot more populated during the summer season. The campground has showers, so we cleaned up before eating breakfast at Ralph’s Grill.

Ralph Moor started this development, and the restaurant is meant to help keep that part of his effort alive.

The breakfast was OK, but the waitress was a real hoot (very friendly, outgoing, and a font of local knowledge). We wandered back to the boat , took the pups for another walk, and prepared to depart.

The day was sunny, and with shelter from surrounding trees didn’t seem too breezy, until we made it back on the lake. With a long fetch, the waves and whitecaps were back, but not as strong as the day before. Everyone was still taking it slow.

We made our way back through the Barkley Canal, and went north to look around Green Turtle Bay.

The first time we were there was when we towed our 19’ ski boat to the area back in the late-1980’s. We wanted to go through a lock, just to see how it felt. We were a little nervous, but the lock master was friendly and helpful.

We locked down to the Cumberland River, went a couple miles, and then locked back up to Lake Barkley. It was a little intimidating in our little boat, but set the stage well for further adventures.

The restaurant is still there were our waiter did an impromptu full song rendition of Billy Rae Cyrus’ then hit, “Achy Brakey Heart”, before he showed our 4 year old the numerous turtles in the basin. He then produced a large piece of bread, and encouraged Matt to feed the gathering throng. Lots of fun, and memories.

We navigated back to Buzzard Rock, and started to prepare for the trip back home. One more great dinner at the restaurant (it was $1.00 bottled beer night!) and we went to sleep.

Saturday (10/15)

We loaded SSV back on the trailer, and bid the Kentucky Lakes area farewell.

It’s always fun to go back and see places and people who were part of your past. Reminiscing helps keep the memories alive.

But, it’s also great to live in the moment, and enjoy life as it unfurls. Finally, we look toward the future, and relish making plans for adventures yet to come.

Wishing you fair seas/clear water/ fabulous sunsets/ and great memories!

[Rob & Karen]

Great story. Thanks for sharing. We will be crusing from Clarksville on the Cumberland River to the Ohio River and back over Memorial Day. Maybe we will cross paths some day.

Rob, Karen & Riley