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ken 120
Joined: 17 Oct 2005 Posts: 108 City/Region: Sea Isle City,
State or Province: NJ
C-Dory Year: 2001
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
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Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:15 pm Post subject: Screws |
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Where my batteries are- between the gas tanks- found some screws that water got into the balsa core- essentially two screws that are used to hold the the plastic holder that the straps go through to hold the battery- drilled some pilot holes and pulled all the battery holder screws out and found my problem was localized to two screw holes- refilled all but the two wet screw holes and in the process of drying them out-
Thinking I would like not to re drill and instead get some plastic lumber or starboard and poxy them to the floor in the back bilge and then drill the plastic wood/starboard- anyone take that approach to avoid re drilling?
Ken |
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Jack in Alaska
Joined: 17 Aug 2004 Posts: 1190 City/Region: Anchorage/Ninilchik
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 26 Pro Angler
Vessel Name: HIGH TIDE II
Photos: HIGH TIDE II
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Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:08 am Post subject: |
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Ken,
I believe epoxying starwood blocks would hold battery hold down brackets.
Another method would be to fiberglass a small block of wood the the floor and screw into that.
Water intrusion in our CD's is a problem and needs to be checked up on as you are doing.
Jack _________________ On the HIGH TIDE-II, wife Carolyn and I.....Another summer fishing on the HIGH TIDE II in the Cook Inlet at Cape Ninilchik, Alaska.
HIGH TIDE-II; 2005 26' ProAngler; 2003 200 Honda / 2009 9.9 Honda high thrust
No. CD026021I405; AK-5008-AK
MSSI No. 338143486(cancelled)
HIGH TIDE; 1983 Angler Classic 22'; 90 Honda/ 9.9 Tohatsu-sold 2009 to son Dan (flatfishfool)
Stolen & stripped in Aug. 18
Bare hull & trailer sold in Nov. |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12633 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:43 am Post subject: |
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I don't know, (don't think), you can epoxy starboard. BUT I do know you can epoxy wood. that is what I am doing right now in moving my Racor filters. they were screwed into the transom, under the splash well, and when I removed them, I am filling those holes and then have some wood, (was looking for teak, but a C-Brat friend had some purple heart that I am going to glue to the transom, and then drill and mount my filters into the wood. Had to do all that, just to put in a new bilge pump.
Harvey
SleepyC
_________________ Though in our sleep we are not conscious of our activity or surroundings, we should not, in our wakefulness, be unconscious of our sleep. |
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Sunbeam
Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Posts: 3990 City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
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Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:16 am Post subject: |
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A couple of thoughts:
1) Epoxy/glass a couple of short pieces of fiberglass angle to the deck and then use those to anchor to. One place to get the pre-formed angle is McMaster-Carr.
1a) I wonder if VHB tape would work for the angles instead of epoxy/glass (this is something I've been reading up on and experimenting with for some things but am not yet qualified to "officially" suggest). But it could be a good use.
2) Another thing I've been wanting to experiment with is Weld-Mount fasteners. They are essentially various fastener bases that "glue" to the substrate with methacrylate. They are being used quite a bit in new boatbuilding to hold various pieces of equipment (fuel filters, etc.). without penetrating cored/thin structures. I'm not sure if they would be appropriate for batteries, but that could be checked.
3) On the other hand, if you were to remove all of the damp core, then prep and put in a wide epoxy annulus, re-screwing into the bottom would be very unlikely to cause a future problem, if you decide to go that way.
I wouldn't choose starboard. It does not take sealants well, can creep under load, and (minor cosmetic point) in the light colors it gets dirty and is not easy to clean. |
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Jack in Alaska
Joined: 17 Aug 2004 Posts: 1190 City/Region: Anchorage/Ninilchik
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 26 Pro Angler
Vessel Name: HIGH TIDE II
Photos: HIGH TIDE II
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Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:16 am Post subject: |
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Good info on Starboard. That though went through my mind about it not sticking to epoxy. Now I know. Thanks |
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ken 120
Joined: 17 Oct 2005 Posts: 108 City/Region: Sea Isle City,
State or Province: NJ
C-Dory Year: 2001
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
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Posted: Tue May 01, 2012 6:09 pm Post subject: Screws |
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A friend - boater- tells me he used stainless steel battery posts and used "5200" to attach them to his fiberglass floor and has held for a year- spoke with a sales person at West Marine who seems to think it would work- sounds simple- anyone ever "here tell" of anything like this as a way of Holding batteries in place??
Thanks for the advise.
Ken |
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potter water
Joined: 12 Apr 2011 Posts: 1076 City/Region: Logan
State or Province: UT
C-Dory Year: 1997
C-Dory Model: R-21 Tug
Vessel Name: Poopsy
Photos: Still C-razy
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 9:45 am Post subject: |
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Battery posts???? _________________ You can tell a man his wife is ugly, but never ever criticize his dog, his gun, his truck or his boat.
Never let ignorance interfere with an opportunity to state a knowledgeable opinion
Testosterone Tales-Amazon.com
2006 C-Dory 22 Cruiser 2008-2014
1997 Ranger Tug 21 Classic 2016
KG7RC |
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ken 120
Joined: 17 Oct 2005 Posts: 108 City/Region: Sea Isle City,
State or Province: NJ
C-Dory Year: 2001
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 9:54 am Post subject: Screws |
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AKA the"things" that the straps go through to hold the batteries in place. The "thing" I am trying to avoid screwing to the floor of the back bilge-sorry for not being as clear as I should have been- I am sure your question made my post clearer for everyone else.
Thanks
Ken |
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