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Replacement of older G4 Tie Down disc brakes
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SeaSpray



Joined: 12 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:55 pm    Post subject: Replacement of older G4 Tie Down disc brakes Reply with quote

I have an 04 King trailer and went out to check the brake pads. The first wheel I looked at had frozen pistons in the caliper. I was able to push out one piston but don't think there are rebuild kits for these.

Has anyone replaced the Tie Down G4 with stainless rotors with a newer system? Tie Down seems to make two G5 models - the Eliminator non-stainless with GALVX coating, and a stainless rotor Eliminator.

I did find replacement calipers for my G4 brakes but these have always seemed to wear the pads quickly and I would have the same rotors. The price of just the calipers is about $330 and the others $450 and $600.

Any experience with these models or suggestions?
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I have a EZ Loader, but in general brakes is brakes. First, I'm not sure why your calipers cost so much, unless that's for 4 calipers. Journey On's trailer takes these calipers: Kodiak Calipers they aren't SS, but I've still got 3 of the original calipers and we've been launching in salt water for 6 years.

Second, it's not the calipers which grind down the pads, unless they're crooked. For me, it's the rust on the disks that wear out the pads. You get rust on your car pads, but salt water and infrequent trips do a number on the trailer. I've changed to ceramic and wear seems to be better. I guess you have SS, but it's still the disk, the caliper just shoves the pad against the rotor.

Boris
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Will-C



Joined: 21 Aug 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:51 am    Post subject: Replacement of older G4 Tie Down disc brakes Reply with quote

I'm not sure but you might look into replacing the complete axle assembly with brakes already installed. I don't know if you have torsion or leaf springs but complete axles sometimes are priced pretty aggressively. Just a thought since your axles are eight years old. Try the www.trailerpartssuperstore.com who are east coast but have decent prices on brake parts.
D.D.

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cbgale



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.etrailer.com/
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SeaSpray



Joined: 12 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have ordered the Kodiak brakes to replace my Tie Down G4 models. I have a set of brake pads for the G4's and I will have 4 complete hubs/rotors and calipers that could be used for parts. Let me know if interested.

Steve
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gonna replace all four of our G4 brakes w/ then newer G5. Has to be done; the rotors are shot and the pad are worn. Question is this: HOW DO YOU BLEED THE SYSTEM? Confused
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SeaSpray



Joined: 12 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a link for bleeding the brakes:

http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html#bleed_brakes

Steve
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Spike



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark I am in the process of replacing all 4 of my rotors, calipers,pads,bearings, seals as we speak. On my coupler there is a lever on the underside just behind the reciever cup push that up poke a flat tip screwdriver in the hole pump master cylinder. It Is a two person job. One to pump and add fluid the other to crack the bleeder nipple at the calipers. Don't waste your money on those small hand vaccum pumps that claim to make it a one person job. I have two and neither are worth a crap. I don't know who makes your coupler mine is a UFP. There is a picture of how to pump the master cylinder and a short discription on their site. Bleeding the system is the only real PITA on the whole job. Have fun
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I found the answer once I got cleaned up and put all the tools away.

I have a Titan "Surge-O-Matic" model 10. I "GOOGLED" that and found detailed instructions. Duh... Rolling Eyes I always jump to "trying to figure it out..." before I remember the inter-web is here now and has answers for everything. Embarassed Now to just order the parts; $190.00 per wheel from Trailer Parts Superstore. Mad Cry Oh, well. It's just money....right? Neutral
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SeaSpray



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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The results of my brake change have been good with a little problem in the beginning.

The new Kodiak brakes work much better than the Tie Down I had. But I am not sure how long the calipers have been so corroded they where not working.

When I installed all 4 new hub/rotors, bearings, and calipers I took it for a test run to my local ramp - about 10 miles low speed. When I got there on of the outer wheel bearings had destroyed itself and the hub was running on the nut. I have never had a failure like this and have no idea what caused it. I installed all 4 the same way and only this one had a problem.

I talked with Kodiak and they sent me a replacement hub and bearings. I am very grateful they did this since I purchased online and there was no way for them to know how I installed it.

With a new hub and bearings I made a trip to Lake Powell and back (2000 mi) with no problems except a blown tire.

If anyone has the Tie Down G4 brakes I have a new set of brake pads free for pickup or you pay shipping.

Steve
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If all four were properly installed and equally torqued w/ the end play properly adjusted, a defect in the wheel bearing itself would by my first guess. It's the most "complex" piece of the puzzle, and as such, the most prone to failure.
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SEA3PO



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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disk brake calipers are very easy to rebuild....and you sure don't need to order a rebuild kit or have someone rebuild them....

You can buy the parts separately from a quality parts house...like a Napa Dealer...but they have to want to help you...it takes some looking...
the ONLY part that touches inside the caliper bore is the square cut seal...and those are standard sizes... you can have rust pits inside the caliper bore and that will not cause any sort of problem...only if they are inside the groove where the square cut seal rests.

The dust boot is also available separately as is the piston...the piston on all caliper systems is nickel plated..if it is pitted replace that..it will be the same as a car piston...Napa can find that too...

The caliper rebuild kit is expensive...and once you look inside you will feel robbed....because there are only two pieces...a new square cut seal and a new dust boot...that is it.. you can buy them for much less from Napa as separate parts...easy to do...there is a special catalog they have that shows the parts.... it's called a Illustrated Parts Guide A400 if I remember correctly.

It takes less than 10 minutes to clean a caliper and rebuild it...if anyone wants me to rebuild theirs...buy the parts, send everything to me and I will be happy to rebuild them for free...it's that easy.

Joel
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SEA3PO



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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Napa also has a caliper rebuild service and it costs something like $30 and includes the new parts....

If the caliper itself is rusty, I think I would send it in and have them cadmium plated..it is not very expensive...cad will not build up like powdercoating.

Joel
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Golerud



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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 3:28 pm    Post subject: Electric over Hydraulic Brakes Reply with quote

We have a 2006 King trailer with Tie Down Engineering disc brakes on both axles. I am hoping to convert from a surge brake system to an Electric over Hydraulic sytem. I prefer the Carlisle Hydra Star unit. I talked with the tech rep at Tie Down Engineering today and he informed me that whatever system I choose, it cannot exert over 1000 PSI. He said that even 1001 PSI would destroy the aluminum calipers.

I know that many of the C-Brats have the electric over hydraulic systems on their trailers. Do any of you have the system where the TieDown disc brakes are used?

Thanks for any information you can provide.

Gary
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Captains Cat



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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Electric over Hydraulic Brakes Reply with quote

Golerud wrote:
I talked with the tech rep at Tie Down Engineering today and he informed me that whatever system I choose, it cannot exert over 1000 PSI. He said that even 1001 PSI would destroy the aluminum calipers.

Thanks for any information you can provide.

Gary


That "tech rep" must be an English Major, he' certainly not an engineer!

Charlie

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