removing hot water heater

jacuthbert · Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 11:18 am Post subject: removing hot water heater

Would any of you be up for listing the steps for removing my hot water heater from my C-Dory 25? My normal MO is to just barge ahead, but I am concerned I will electrocute myself, or end up with water running in places it shouldn't be...
Here's hoping...
Amanda

localboy · Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 11:31 am Post subject:

You won't get electrocuted if the boat is NOT hooked up to shore power. Drain the tank completely; open the pressure lever & open the drain spigot. Make sure your 12v system is activated so the bilge pump drains the box. Disconnect the in/out water supply hoses & drain hose, disconnect the 110 power wire...pull heater.

Once done you'll have to somehow connect/splice the water hose(s)together; I'd simply splice them together with a brass, tapered joint and two hose clamps for simplicity. Then I'd disconnect/remove the power wire at the circuit breaker. The drain hose that goes into the bilge box could be cut and plugged under the closet. Done.

Aurelia · Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 12:10 pm Post subject:

I just pulled ours last week and replaced it with a smaller model so I have it fresh in mind. Localboy has it right and those are the basic steps for yanking it out. If you have questions about anything else related or replacing it with another tank, I would be happy to help out. Send me a PM with your number or post more questions here.

Alyssa Jean · Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 2:51 pm Post subject:

Greg,
What did you replace yours with?

Aurelia · Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 4:11 pm Post subject:

Looked around and researched too much and the solution actually came from the local Home Depot. A GE 2.5 gallon round unit wired with a 110 plug. Changed the element over to 240 and now it runs off the 1000 watt honda generator. Heats up in 47 minutes and has enough juice left over to change the batteries at the same time. The boat is now truely has the "Anchoring" package and is very self sufficient. The water heater cabinet has tons of space now and the new tank runs the shower for a sufficient time. When Cindie first used a 2 gallon solar shower bag hung on the door and ended up completely happy with that experience using just over half the water in the bag, I knew we could really be happy with a smaller tank with a bonus of running it with our little generator that fits under the v-berth cushion.

I have one plumbing revision to make on the drain line but other wise its tested and working well. Gives 2 full minutes of hot water out of the factory handheld trigger nozzle in the head. Doesn't sound like much but it plenty for one person with an on-demand nozzle.

Here is the first of three phone pics in our album:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Aurelia&id=1224000954_G&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Greg

jacuthbert · Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:11 am Post subject: removing hot water heater

Dear LocalBoy
THANK YOU! I will follow your instructions to the letter.
Amanda

Pat Anderson · Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:32 am Post subject:

Yes, that pretty accurately describes how I did it as well. So what is this sudden interest in removing the hot water heater from CD25s? Did I start something? We are not even thinking of replacing it with anything that requires 110 v. That was why it was basically pretty useless for us as cruisers who anchor out most of the time. It certainly took up more space than it was worth for us. When we need hot water, we heat it in a tea kettle on the stove and mix down (for dishes or hair washing or whatever).

Aurelia · Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:52 am Post subject:

We just wanted a tank system that was closer to the boat in purpose. I think the six gallon tank they come with is really just a common model and became the obvious choice for cost and availability reasons. I couldn't look at it and honestly see how it was the best choice for the boat when there are other more compact marine units available that could feed the little nozzle in the head just fine. Something around 2.5-4 gallons in a space saving form would be ideal for the boat. All of us are always trying to wring the most space out of the vessel but we somehow think the huge box filling nearly all the useable space in one of the largest cabinets on the boat makes sense when it is obvious that most owners don't even use it for showering or they have other "methods".

We love our compact honda EU1000 and think it is a great anchoring accessory for the 25 and fits under our Vberth cushion with a bale of PDFS and all of our manuals. We really thought it best if we could power basically anything on the boat with that unit or 12v so we went through the necessary motions to install an inverter, microwave, toaster, water heater, large house bank, and dual house bank chargers that could all be supplied without marina support. Any of those appliances can be run with the 1000 or the inverter. LEDs and one 30watt solar panel (so far) help out as well.

The neatest places we have found have all been while anchoring so that is what we like most. And we don't run for cover when the sun stops shining.

I am waiting for the compact forced air air/water combo heater that runs on unleaded.

jacuthbert · Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 4:44 pm Post subject: removing hot water heater

Well y'all...
I managed to remove the water heater and only ended up standing in 1 inch of water. (I forgot to put on the power so the bilge pump would work...). Anyway, I followed your directions (mostly) and accomplished the task. So thank you all kindly. I now have a nice space for storage and I have listed the heater for sale on Ebay. Hopefully I can sell it this week and use the money to do a little extra floating!
Amanda

Hooked on Powell · Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:55 pm Post subject:

Greg on Aurelia,

Your smaller water heater looks very interesting. Sure does free up a lot of space.

What do you mean when you say you changed the heating element to 240? And you also mentioned that the unit has a 110 plug for power. I'm clueless when it comes to electric, so this really has me confused. I'd like to understand because I'm very tempted to get rid of the "big box" on Frequent Sea, too.

Thanks.

Dalton

rogerbum · Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 7:13 pm Post subject:

Hooked on Powell · Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:19 pm Post subject:

Roger, thanks for the electric equations. Now I remember some of this stuff from physics classes a loooong time ago.

I looked at the GE site and found this water heater. It comes as a 110v unit requiring just under 1500w.

So, following your equations I think I now understand why Greg said he changed the element to 220/240v...to reduce the wattage requirement.

Do you see the next question coming? How in the heck do you modify the heating element to 220?

Dalton

Alyssa Jean · Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:43 pm Post subject:

I think you buy a new one, But let's wait for the expert.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 12:24 am Post subject:

Aurelia · Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 12:34 am Post subject:

Everyone is on the right track as usual. I ordered a new 240 volt 2500 watt element for the little 2.5 gallon tank so it runs at about 625 watts in theory and my basic testing so far backs that number up.

I cut the 110 plug off and wired it directly to the original water heater power wire on the boat so it operates as standard with the breaker switch under the table. I first tried a square unit that was even more "space saving" but could not find a 240 volt element in the right wattage because of the boxy shape of the tank.

If you need it I can direct you toward the precise element I ordered. Just have to track down the order in my email.

Plan to give it the full test this weekend with the wife as a tester.

Greg