Rub Rail Replacement - Suproflex

Pearl · Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 10:40 am Post subject: Rub Rail Replacement - Suproflex

I have a 2007 25 Cruiser and I am planning on changing the rub rail as the aluminum rail is beat up on both sides. Talking with Taco Marine they have suggested one of their newer products called Suproflex kit number V11-9960. They said it comes in a coil and is a vast improvement on the old aluminum sticks and goes on a lot easier. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

ssobol

journey on · Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 12:12 pm Post subject:

On Journey On, the rub rail is aluminum with a plastic insert. That said, the aluminum is pop riveted on to the boat at the deck/hull joint when it left the factory. So, it not only attaches the aluminum part of the rub rail but also secures the bottom and top of the boat in some part.

Originally, the factory used pop rivets which have corroded away, and I've replaced them with 1/4" bolts and lock nuts. I used sheet metal screws where I couldn't get to the rear of the joint. It was a bear of a job.

I don't know how the new rub rail attaches, but does it bolt on? Are you up to removing the pop rivets or does your boat have bolts? It can't be a direct replacement?

Boris

tsturm · Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 12:21 pm Post subject:

Pearl · Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 3:11 pm Post subject:

Excellent point Boris on the securing the bottom and top of the boat in some part. The aluminum rail is riveted and a few of them have broken causing the rail to loosen. I was hoping Taco Marine would have the aluminum rail in 14' but they only supply 12'. Guess I will being installing three sections of rail instead of two. Researching C-Brats I plan on going with Aluminum Rail A12-0303BYL12 and Insert V12-0303BKA70-1

journey on · Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 5:33 pm Post subject:

tsturm,

My point was that those rivets go through the joint where the deck and hull join, not through some fiberglass sheet.. Certainly, our boats have a bond with glass and the pop rivets. If you remove the rivets you not only have holes but a weaker joint. That's why I used bolts and sheet metal screws instead of new pop rivets. Also I used a plastic washer under the bolt head to separate stainless and aluminum. You may differ, your choice.

Those aluminum rails have absorbed a lot of abuse and have a few flat spots that I haven't hammered out. And, BTW, my aluminum rail had started to corrode internally so I drilled small weep holes at the aft bottom of the rails.
Boris