Bilge pump and wiring

ferret30 · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:31 pm Post subject: Bilge pump and wiring

My bilge got something stuck in the impeller that prevented it from running when I hit the manual on switch. It fried the fuse (10A) which I can replace, but should the pump still be ok after this? From the dash light it looks like it might have been turned on for >30s seized before the fuse burnt.

Second, the wiring for the pump seems hacky. It's got regular (non-waterproof) wire nuts in the starboard hatch and in the bilge 6" away from the pump. These wire connections were wrapped in some black tape that didn't seem water resistant either. I know there are "waterproof" wire nuts but I'd prefer to use something like a waterproof inline crimp splice that can be cleanly wrapped with thick self-sealing electrical tape stuff (don't know what it's called).

Sorry for multiple threads but it's probably better for future reference to keep topics separate, right?

Thanks!

Captains Cat · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:38 pm Post subject:

Clean out the pump suction, put in a new fuse and try it. Hard to tell from here! Rolling Eyes

Charlie

ferret30 · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:23 pm Post subject:

hambone · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:05 pm Post subject:

If in doubt change it out. That's my motto. But that's just me. Smile

H

C-Nile · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:16 pm Post subject:

Two year's ago, I had a 5-amp fuse for the bilge go bad, but it passed a continuity check! When I put the voltage meter on it, it would only allow about 6 volts to pass -- not 12. Essentially, the metallic element was corroded, and it would not allow the bilge pump to operate. After replacing the fuse, everything worked fine, so I agree with Sea Wolf that to be safe, just replace it.

Rich

ferret30 · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:18 pm Post subject:

Yep, I found a RuleMate manual online, and I don't currently know which pump it is (the boat is stored 15 miles away) but the recommended fuse size is 1.5A or 2.5A. The installed fuse was 10A! Might be good to keep a replacement on board at least! Actually, I need to dig around a little since I think the boat may have come with a spare...

If my driveway wasn't off of a 15% inclined street I'd keep my boat in my driveway and work on it anytime!

Thanks guys

ferret30 · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:23 pm Post subject:

Dreamer · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:29 pm Post subject:

f-30,

Drop by Fisheries Supply in Seattle and get some of These They'll keep water out of your connections.

ferret30 · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:37 pm Post subject:

Matt Gurnsey · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:59 pm Post subject:

I once owned a boat where the connector of choice was wire nuts, and the fastener of choice were sheetrock screws. Ugh. The things some guys do....

If the pump runs, I think you may be okay, but if you have doubts, replace it for the peace of mind. A few hundered bucks for new pump and connectors is better than lying awake at night!

C-Nile · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:30 pm Post subject:

I believe the Rule 1100 specifies a 5 AMP fuse. By having a 10 AMP fuse in place, it allowed 10 AMPS of current to the motor windings, creating a lot of heating, and possibly melted the windings' insulation coatings. So it is best to replace the motor, and insure that the fuse you use is the one specified by the manufacturer. If you had a 5 AMP fuse in place, and the motor seized, you might have gotten away with not replacing the pump, but at 10 AMPS, you're taking a chance in using the old pump.

I apologize for the confusion I caused on my previous post.

Thanks!

Rich

rogerbum · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:53 pm Post subject:

Just because there's a 10A fuse in place that burned out doesn't mean that 10A went through the motor windings. The motor (when working properly) will only draw the amount of current that 12V through the motor windings will allow - in this case < the 1.5 or 2.5 A or 5A fuse that Rule specifies (it's hard to tell what Rule really specifies from the above collection of posts). The purpose of the fuse is NOT to protect the pump but rather to protect the wiring to and from the pump. If a 10A fuse blew, it suggests a leak to ground someplace in the wiring system as opposed to burn pump windings. Given the brief description of the less than quality wiring job that the previous owner did, my bet is that the pump is just fine. I'd replace any connectors that look bad with proper marine connectors and assure that marine grade wiring was used. A bilge pump should be able to run many, many minutes without burning up (>30s is not a problem).

20dauntless · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:03 pm Post subject:

I'd keep the pump, fix the wiring, and then add a second bilge pump.

ferret30 · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:04 pm Post subject:

Papacorn · Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 10:20 pm Post subject:

Contrary to what others have said here, I would assume the pump saw 10amps. An electric motor that has voltage applied is almost a dead short (limited only by the winding resistance which is not a lot) until it starts to turn and then the counter electromagnetic force reduces the current flow. If you hang up a downrigger ball , you blow the fuse because the motor won't turn.

The pump , if working, is likely OK but you seem worried about it, so for a few bucks buy another and take a load off your mind.