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terraplane
Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 524
City/Region: chesapeake bay
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: R-25 Tug
Vessel Name: BANJO
Photos: Sally's Sister
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 Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 9:06 pm Post subject: Delivery check-list for a new 22 C Dory |
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A number of us here on the "right coast" seem to be taking delivery of new boats between mid-March and May. Though I'm an experienced boater, i've never owned a C. Dory, never used an outboard, and never owned a glass boat. So, I'm asking all of you experienced C. Dory people for a kind of "check list" I can use when i look the boat over , take it on a sea trial, and just generally do the final checks. You can't kick the tires of one of these things. What should be the basic review of the boat I might use to make me feel good about handing over that check?
Input will be greatly appreciated.
tom/terraplane |
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Valkyrie
Joined: 09 Jan 2005
Posts: 1028
City/Region: Loudonville
State or Province: OH
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Valkyrie II
Photos: Valkyrie
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| Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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I'm "in the same boat" with Terraplane, taking delivery in May. Clue me in, too.
Nick
"Valkyrie" |
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Pat Anderson
Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 8556
City/Region: Birch Bay, WA
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Daydream
Photos: Daydream and Crabby Lou
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| Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 9:33 am Post subject: Re: Delivery check-list for a new 22 C Dory |
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First off, relax, C-Dory does not deliver lemons (read the Bayliner horror stories!) - there might be a few little things that you will discover, but they will be taken care of...You WILL feel good about handing over the check, it is the Day of Goofy Grins. Just read the Honda manual for the outboards, follow the break-in procedure (rpm limits for 2 and 10 hours), and most of all take it easy for a while. The Hondas are great engines, I have never heard anybody who had any problems with the current crop of Honda four strokes. Be sure you have all your Coast Guard required stuff on board. Drink on the dock, not on board (except sundowners at anchor of course!) Cruise at the speeds the boat wants to cruise and don't worry about keeping up with the go fast boats. Fender well for docking! Approach even more slowly than you think you should, pay attention to the wind and try to be on the side where the wind will be blowing you into the dock and not away from it! Use Stabil in your gas and disconnect the fuel lines to run the gas out of the carbs when you flush the engines. Get all the salt water off everything every time you pull out (or are you leaving it in the water, I forget). Keep it under some kind of a cover to protect the gelcoat against UV. That is all my accumulated knowledge...Enjoy!
| terraplane wrote: | You can't kick the tires of one of these things. What should be the basic review of the boat I might use to make me feel good about handing over that check?
Input will be greatly appreciated.
tom/terraplane |
_________________
DAYDREAM - CD25 Cruiser
CRABBY LOU - CD16 Angler (sold 2020)
Pat & Patty Anderson, C-Brat #62!
http://daydreamsloop.blogspot.com
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katie Marie III
Joined: 27 Dec 2004
Posts: 29
City/Region: Stoney Creek Chesapeake Bay
State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: katie-marie III
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| Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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| I give my check over in 14 days, and I will see you in June. I am naming her Katie Marie III. Now do I need to change my screen name to the boat name? |
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Alyssa Jean
Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 2376
City/Region: Guemes Is.(Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: Alyssa Jean
Photos: Anna Leigh and Alyssa Jean
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| Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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That would make life easier for everyone. Gets difficult trying to remember that Gadabout owned by G.I.Forgot goes by the nickname of whats-his-face.
_________________
David and Kate
Alyssa Jean 16 Angler
Anna Leigh 22 Cruiser Sold 2005
Anna Leigh 25 Cruiser Sold 2014
K7KJR C-Brats #51 |
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rogerbum
Joined: 21 Nov 2004
Posts: 5928
City/Region: Kenmore
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Meant to be
Photos: SeaDNA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 11:05 pm Post subject: Re: Delivery check-list for a new 22 C Dory |
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| terraplane wrote: | A number of us here on the "right coast" seem to be taking delivery of new boats between mid-March and May. Though I'm an experienced boater, i've never owned a C. Dory, never used an outboard, and never owned a glass boat. So, I'm asking all of you experienced C. Dory people for a kind of "check list" I can use when i look the boat over , take it on a sea trial, and just generally do the final checks. You can't kick the tires of one of these things. What should be the basic review of the boat I might use to make me feel good about handing over that check?
Input will be greatly appreciated.
tom/terraplane |
I agree with Pat that C-dory doesn't deliver lemons - however, there are enough minor things that can crop up and enough items are fitted at the dealer that there are some things you should ask/check-on. Take the test ride/check-out time as a good opportunity to get some free education. Here's my list for what it's worth.
1) I'd do a general walk around the boat and look close for gel coat breaks or blisters. I had one or two minor imperfections that were quickly fixed to my satisfaction.
2) I'd ask a number of detailed questions regarding how the electrical system was wired - this is often done at the dealer and different places put stuff in a bit differently. Even if they all did it the same, some things were not obvious to me - the novice boat owner - when I first took delivery. Specifically ask:
a) Where's the shore power outlet and what do I do to connect it? I couldn't find the hook up when I first started looking for it (mine's at the front of the starboard gunnel) and I didn't see the breaker panel (mounted to the right and behind my knee at the helm). No one told me that I needed to switch the breakers over from battery to shore power when I connected.
b) ask where the battery switch is at and the recommendation for how to use it. Most recommend NOT having the switch in the BOTH position while charging from the motor alternators. Again it would have been good if I was told this on test drive.
c) Get a replacement parts list for all the bulbs, fuses, etc and pick up a spare set. It's easiest to do this up front.
3) Have the fuel system explained to you. Ask how to switch from one tank to the other, how to prime the engines for starting and have them demonstrate how to break the vapor lock that forms if you run a tank dry. With my fuel selector, it was not obvious which end of the handle was the "pointer" and I ran the engine dry on my first switch over. It took me awhile at anchor to figure out that I needed to release the fuel line from the engine, hold the ball valve in and re-prime the line with the squeeze bulb to get going again. It always takes longer to figure these things out under stress.... Also ask how often to change the fuel filter and how to check for and get rid of water in the separator. If the fuel filter is the Honda labeled Racor filter ask for the Racor equivalent part number - most places around here don't recognize the Honda numbers.
4) Have them go over proper starting and flushing of the engines. It's useful to have someone show you how to use the mufflers the first time. Also ask about the various alarms that the engines can give (low water and over heat). I'd also have them demonstrate how to start the engines manually (e.g. pull start). You might need to do that some day and knowing exactly how to do it might help if conditions are bad.
5) Have them show you how to check and fill the oil. It's pretty self evident but might as well know before you leave the shop.
6) Have them go over the maintenance schedule for the engine(s) with you. Yes, you can read it on your own but they should know it by heart and can help you find the relevant pages quickly.
7) Check all electronics all on at the same time to make sure that one doesn't interfere with another - static on the radio from the fish finder, etc...
 Have them demo launching and retrieving on the trailer and how to tie it down. The guy who gave me my check out ride from the factory towed the boat without tie downs and would have had me leave with it that way!! (fortunately he doesn't work there anymore)...
9) If you have the wallas heater/stove installed, ask how to fill it, turn it on and off and how to clean it if it clogs (mine hasn't yet but there is some talk on the site that occasional cleaning of a fuel jet is required).
10) Have them show you how to fill and empty the fresh water system and ask about recommended cleaning of such.
After getting the boat, moor it for a couple of days to check for leaks - there shouldn't be any BUT it occasionally happens. There was a brief time when the stem guards were installed with holes drilled too deep. Those boats leaked water into the bow under the v-berth - you wouldn't notice it without removing the inspection plate or without noticing that the bow was riding lower than usual in the water. This is a solved problem now but I still think it is wise to moor for a day or two in calm waters with the original water line marked.
My boat also had a leak around the fresh water system fill cap. This is well above the water line so I only noticed it after a heavy rain but it took awhile to figure out since the water came in behind the port seat near the bulkhead. I didn't find it until I waited for it to start pouring rain and ran down to spend a night on the boat. Water can puddle a bit in front of the fill cap - a little silicone fixed that. Same for a small leak at the wire to the GPS antenna. Hence, I'd recommend spraying all through holes with a hose and checking for leaks. Nothing is hard to get fixed or to fix but you won't find these things until its wet.
other minor stuff -
Buy an extra plug and use a twistie to secure it near the boat drain. If your's ever pops out ir isn't in when launching, you'll be glad you have a nearby spare.
Make sure you get a complete set of fenders and lines - I recommend at least one 50' line and two 25's. 3/8" is plenty - I rig the 50' centered on the bow with half down each side to the cockpit. The two 25's go on either side of the stern. Set it up so that when you exit the cock pit, you can leave with a bow and a stern line in each hand. Makes life much easier.. Also have a boat hook or two handy. You're probably much better at handling the boat than I was at first but it took me about 40 dockings before I got to the "not worried about hitting something" stage.
Roger on the SeaDNA
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