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Water under V Berth

 
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Peter_BDA



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
Posts: 87
City/Region: Bermuda
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 22 Classic
Photos: Luna-Sea
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 6:50 pm    Post subject: Water under V Berth Reply with quote

I've seen a number of great posts here on my search for info on this topic. I don't have clam shell drains in my anchor locker (yet) but I think I was suffering from water intrusion through some unsealed deck hardware. Just seems to be so much of it!!


As the boat is "new to me" I am also planning on upgrading sea-cocks just to be on the safe side.

Like everyone else, water seems to pool in the area where the sea-cocks are despite my removing it. I don't have an inspection hatch under/near the toilet but I am tempted to put one in to help get the water out.

I was also tempted to drill a small hole in the step where v-beth meets the cockpit floor and jut let the water drain into the cabin where I can sock in up.

I new pearls of wisdoms on this topic??

Thanks!!
Peter

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20866
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where are your seacocks? Most C Dory 22's do not come with sea cocks. If there are seacocks where the false floor is forward, that area should be cut out--the balsa core (which is near the end of the balsa--so you may want to check this)-- needs to be cut out, and the core around the sea cock filled with solids. Then put back in with a new hole smoothed.

Leaking deck hardware would be on top of the bunk platform usually. There can be leaking around the bow railing, cleats and even the cap rail--but in these older boats many of these places had epoxy dabbed over any hull penetrations...The railing fittings may need replacing, bored out, epoxy lined and properly sealed with 4200.

The brass stip on the bow has been one point of water intrusion. Remove the strip and screws. Then fill all of the holes with epoxy and replace screws with modern sealant under both the screws and strip (think 5200) The holes should be slightly drilled out. Another common point has been the anchor locker--if it is not sealed at the very bottom. That is easy to check, and then fill with epoxy/or polyester in the bottom of the anchor locker--use cloth and mat, after grinding out the lower area, to be certain of good adherence of the new material.

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
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Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
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Home port: Pensacola FL
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Peter_BDA



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
Posts: 87
City/Region: Bermuda
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 22 Classic
Photos: Luna-Sea
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Peter_BDA



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
Posts: 87
City/Region: Bermuda
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 22 Classic
Photos: Luna-Sea
PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Bob, most of those things are on my list of "to check" and/or to do. There wasn't a cap on the chain rode when I got the boat and the rub rails were in bad shape. Rain/sea definitely made it in through the rail fastener holes and the rode....

See below the link for the sea cocks which I'm sure were put in locally.



Rather be sure.....[/url]http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Before&id=IMG_0001_1600x1200&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php[url][/url]
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's that link:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Before&id=IMG_0001_1600x1200&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up

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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's that link:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Before&id=IMG_0001_1600x1200&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up
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Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
Posts: 7313
City/Region: Cod Creek>Potomac River>Chesapeake Bay
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Captain's Choice II
Photos: Captain's Cat
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh My! Shocked Guess you have a true marine head. If you don't use the boat a lot and have a way to dump a porta potti, I'd sure get rid of the marine head, seal up those overboards (seacocks) and take out that plumbing!

Charlie

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20866
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually those are not proper sea cocks--and I would get rid of them ASAP--either by glassing (both sides) them or replacing with bronze seacocks with ball valves. This type of gate valve is not safe--the stem will corrode and can fail.
From the photo album it appears that these are further forward in the boat and under the V Berth--and that you do have a marine head.

Another problem with this specific installation is that you should be pumping in fresh sea water--the discharge is next to the intake--and that is not ideal.
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Peter_BDA



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
Posts: 87
City/Region: Bermuda
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 22 Classic
Photos: Luna-Sea
PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@Thataway,

All very good points....especially the intake being so close to the dischgarge. I'm, thinking that I will replace the seacocks and see how it goes this season-this is my least expensive option for the time being!

I had been investigating repalcing it with a portable but none seem to have consistantly good reviews.....

Peter
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