Weight Distribution in Refurbishment

[Peter_BDA]

Hey all, I have just purchased a 93 22' C Dory Cruiser which is in great shape but the interior is a almost bear save the basic "furniture". I hope to post some "as is" (before??) pics as soon as I get an album.

Currently there is no water tank on the boat and on the starboard side is a bench seat which I am converting to a galley (lots of great ideas and pics on site).

My thought is to install a 20 gallon Todd tank under the port dinette seat and upgrade my battery system to 2 x sealed Federal units under the galley to help offset the water weight. I also wanted the batteries inside the boat to deter them being stolen (a real buzz killer).

Anybody have any opinions on any of this? Ideas? Comments?

Thanks!!
Peter

[ghone]

Welcome aboard Peter, you'll have a great time with the new boat. No specific ideas but this site is loaded with great pictures of many layouts. I like the batteries low down in the boat and inside the cabin works , just provide a good sealed spot with adequate ventilation for charging gases. George

[thataway]

No problem putting the battery under the galley, but I prefer to use AGM batteries inside of the boat. A group 27 battery will weight somewhere in the 60 lb range; 2 are 120 lbs. 20 gallons of water will be about 160 lbs. But also consider that the water tank may not always be full, and that the driver may be the only person on the boat--so there could be considerably more weight on the Stb side.

[Valkyrie]

Peter,

Your profile notes that you have a 22 Classic with a Yamaha 175. Is that correct?

Nick
"Valkyrie"

[Peter_BDA]

Hey, Nick, that info is correct. I haven't had her in the water myself and I can see from the scum line that she is riding high all around. I plan on posting some pictures as soon I am given permissions.


Peter

[centerisland]

I'm thinking through the same thing (and started a thread last month about movable ballast - suggestions were water jugs but I think I'm going with lead pancake weights).

I agree with Dr Bob that you want AGMs inside the cabin. You could also mounts those horizontally (though I believe they are typicall derated by 10% in that orientation) if clearance were an issue.

I bought 2 of the Cabela's group 27 AGMs last month when they were on their owners' club special ($159 each as I recall) and I was playing with their placement yesterday. I started with a neutral balance of 2 flooded batteries in the stb lazarette offset by about 10 extra gallons of fuel in the port tank. 120 lbs of AGMs to port on the cockpit floor, 60 lb sayomed on the dinette berth, 190 lb driver at the helm, and it was pretty evenly balanced.

I'm going to move the AMGs forward into the cabin and keep them as low and centered as possible. Probably going to go under the port settee and remove the water tank, later putting a bladder in the bow. As Dr Bob noted, using the water for lateral trim is problematic if you actually want to use the water (same with my temporary use of fuel for balance).

[Captains Cat]

[Sea Wolf]

centerisland;

I have two 27's in the starboard lazarette and two more under the forward settee, and the weight of those second two 27's together is very hard to balance out under certain situations. (I still have the water tank under the rear settee, though, so moving that forward into the bow will help.)

I would have split them up, but the desire to keep the wiring simple, short, and to a common switch (plus the limited space choices available) led me to put them there.

The big problem comes when you get the second person on board. They're statically balanced with one person on board and at the helm, but the second person throws the whole scheme "outta whack" when they set in that port settee, either in the forward or rear seat! Be sure and try your balancing solution with the second person on board and plan to be able to balance out under those circumstances.

Also, try the balancing act out more than statically, at rest. Do it underway, and on plane, and see how the shifting around works out dynamically.

Joe.

[C-Otter]

The classics only go to 1986. 175 horse -WOW. C-Otter

[thataway]

I had missed that 175 hp--My concern is that the engine is close to 100 lbs more than the transom is designed for in the primary propulsion engine (but many folks hang a kicker on--with is another 100 lbs--so that alone is not of a concern)--but the almost twice the HP that is recommended (I believe that the 1992 boats were rated for 90 hp, could be of concern, unless the transom was re-enforced). I would put the boat on a trailer, or blocks, and then put all of my weight on the lower unit, to see if the transom deflects (or the lower unit moves downward). This is one way of checking the transom's intregrity. I wouold consider re-inforcing the transom if it checks out OK--but my experience is that the 1992 vintage boat limit is about 30 knots. Beyond that speed, it is not as stable as one wouold like---and my boat of that vintage had 90 hp.

Does the boat have trim tabs? You might consider that early in any of your upgrades.

[Peter_BDA]

I am pretty sure that it is a 175 on the back, I will check and confirm. I must confess I've been paying more attention to the interior and related issues.

I am having the motor checked and winterized this Friday and I will have a word with them about the weight and transom strength questions. Thanks for bringing this to my attention!!

Trim tabs are on the list, although I'm not sure that they are going to make the cut this season!

Thanks everyone, and more soon.
Peter

[Peter_BDA]

OK, I can confirm that the engine size is NOT 175, but is a Yamaha 130. Excuse my ignorance-I have updated my profile. Whew....

Peter

[Peter_BDA]

In case you are interested, boat is in the water and appears to be perfectly balanced port/starboard but not forward/aft. This will be solved with more fuel in the tanks I am hoping!

Peter

[jennykatz]

It looks like a 130 hp yamaha not honda they were 4 cylinder models lots of power lots of fuel weight should be less then a 115hp four stroke That boat will fly