Anchor Savor device query

journey on · Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 6:12 pm Post subject:

I've noticed the slot on the Manson Supreme. they also offer a standard hole with which to attach the rode shackle.

Does anyone know if there are any problems if one uses the slot for the rode shackle? Will the anchor turn and set when the boat swings in the tyde?

Boris

baensch-ak · Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 7:47 pm Post subject:

Again, no practical experience with that anchor yet - new to us.
Directional change in pull on an anchor usually does not come 180 degr all at once. They may get yanked around, but usually stay buried. We have used Danforth, Bruce, Delta, CQR. Any of them may come out, but will also reset. We had a 35#CQR completely fouled with weeds and mud a couple of times in Maine - it would not reset but just drag on that ball of mess. If you are concerned about the shackle traveling up to the head in the slot of the Manson and pulling it out, I think, yes, that can happen. However, the anchor will then turn and reset - unless, of course, it is heavily fouled, which can happen with any of them. You can always use the hole if you like. We learned not to set in weeds, which are usually in shallower water. Go deeper, no weeds, better securiy. But, no, I don't think there is any hook that will give you 100% assurance of never dragging under any condition. That's what makes boating interesting!

thataway · Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:54 pm Post subject:

I never used the "slot" in the Manson Supreme I owned. I would look at this as any of the other "temporary" anchorage situations--and feel that it would not be wise to use this unless you are standing an anchor watch.

Yes, boats can reverse 180 degrees, and pull out an anchor--and I have seen it happen, even with all chain rode.

As for the loop of chain--pretty well described, except I have found that it is better to use the dinghy to drop the loop of chain down, and then you can pull the chain over the shank by going 180 degrees from the way that the boat is/was pulling. Dropping it from the boat directly over the anchor will be much less likely to be successful.

Another trick, with any cable or object, is to put a line or graple under the cable--take up the slack of the cable which the anchor is caught under with the boat/windlass, and then suddenly drop the anchor. Usually this will free the anchor from the cable. In Rhodes (Med) we hooked into a battleship chain which was a storm mooring down the middle of the med moors. We pulled the anchor up as far as we could with the windlass (2 speed= 3500 lbs of pull, and were depressing the bow of our 62 foot vessel. Then we dropped a line under the chain, took the load on the line,and rapidly dropped the 70 lb CQR, freeing it--then dropped the line/and chain. There are lots of harbors with chains, cables and even electrical or phone cables under the bottom ("Do not anchor...signs)--where anchors get hung up.

Doryman · Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:23 pm Post subject:

I have a Manson Supreme but I have always used the hole, not the slot, to attach the shackle to. I think I went through this with Bob when I first got the Manson.

Thanks to all who explained the messenger chain process. I have seen the other device mentioned, with the ring or tube that slides down the rode, and which is attached to a small round fender from which a line runs back to the boat. I've heard that these were primarily for fisherfolk who hook into a big one while anchored and unhook themselves from the anchor and rode to follow the fish and then come back to the fender to retrieve the anchor. Not too practical with our typical C-Dory anchor arrangements.

Warren

baensch-ak · Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:29 pm Post subject:

Ah, now that we have a couple of captains with Manson Supreme anchors and losts of experience, may I please ask how well they works?

Al

Larry H · Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 9:11 pm Post subject:

I had some questions about the Anchor Saver so I emailed the company.

My questions:

1. What is the size and tested breaking strength of the SS cable?

2. What is the material of the shear bolt?

3. What is the material of the swage on the cable?

4. What happens if the boat is anchored and the wind shifts, putting a sideways pull on the cable attachment to the anchor?

5. Does the warranty cover damage due to corrosion of the SS parts where they are clamped to the cable?

6. If the shear bolt shears or fails when not requested, and the boat drags ashore, do you accept any liability for the damage to the boat.

The answer:

hardee · Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 9:48 pm Post subject:

Larry, Good questions.

Harvey
SleepyC

thataway · Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:28 pm Post subject:

To answer baensch-ak
Before your joined the group--about 2 years ago I did a series of anchor tests. Test boat was a 18 foot Century with 115 Yahama outboard. I deployed a number of anchors, including a Delta, Manson Supreme, Northhill, 40 HT Danforth, Fortress etc. The Manson Supreme had the best holding of the group--and with full power forward I could not make the Manson drag more than a few inches, as it set in. (PVC pipe markers were used to see how much drag). The bottom was a combination thick mud, sand and a few shells in Perdido Bay. I then used that anchor for about 60 nights at anchor in all types of conditions--mostly on the West Coast, including Alaska, with no draging on a C Dory 25.