Another Bottom Paint Question!!!

[Tug]

Think i need some expert help: i have narrowed it down to two bottom paints..Interlux CSC or Pettit Vivid..to topcoat InterProtect 2000E

I do plan on mooring my boat next summer but i still want the option of being able to trailer my boat for part of the season. Than dry store next winter without having to repaint.Also want a paint that will not come off on my trailer bunks. Maybe i am asking too much.lol Need help on deciding which paint would be the better choice. Thanks Tug

[thataway]

I am using the Vivid on my Caracal. Over a year in fresh to brackish water, and no growth--no problems taking onto the trailer. Looks great still.

[Tug]

Bob... is Pettid Vivid hard enough to beach without scrapping off any bottom paint. Thanks Tug

[SEA3PO]

Are you planning on sanding the bottom to rough it up prior to applying the barrier coat ?

I was thinking of sandblasting the bottom then applying the barrier coat.

Joel
SEA3PO

[A Fishin C]

sea3po, I think a sandblast would be overkill and may damage gelcoat. I would think a roughening of the surface with something like a scotch brite pad, 80 grit sandpaper would be enough.

Epoxy barrier coat considerations?

I had many coats of antifouling on my last boat which came off in pieces. If I were to bottom paint my c-dory I would sure want a paint that would not do this. I didn't do the paint on my last boat so may it was not the kind to take in and out of the water...

[Tug]

I plan on just hand sanding or using an orbital sander on the gelcoat bottom, ( 60-80 grit ) after cleaning and removing any wax.I will just sand enough to give the gelcoat a dull hazy finish with enough bit for the 2000E to grab hold ,than i will apply the InterProtect 2000E. I think sand blasting is overkill but i would use something less aggressive like soda blasting if there were multiple layers of tough,old bottom paint that needed to be removed. Tug

[matt_unique]

No paint will survive beaching...it's basically the same as sand paper. It will not strip the paint clean but it will wear it off.

I used Vivid this past season and it worked as any other paint I have used.

After speaking to Pettit I'm leaning toward their top of the line ablative called SR60 to see how it works. If it does not prove to work well...the paint will slough off with time. Their top of the line hard paint Trinidad SR looses it's mojo once the boat has been out of the water 60 days per Pettit. Said another way, after applying in the Spring you need to be in the water prior to 60 days for it to remain active.

[thataway]

I have beached many small boats with bottom paint--you have to keep it touched up. Gel coat and epoxy with aluminum will wear down when beaching a boat.

As for sand blasting--not a good idea. Soda blasting, with a very experienced operator, is an option. But I have seen a lot of damage done by sand blasting, and would never do it to a boat.

Sanding is proper, and it just takes a little to give the "tooth". Also the hull has to be "de waxed"--from the mold wax. There are specific de waxing solvents and they must be liberally used.

[journey on]

As has been mentioned several times above, de-waxing/ cleaning the hull before applying and Epoxy primer coat is mandatory and important as well. You're going to spend some money and a lot of time in an uncomfortable position, so you might as well do it right. Or you're going to spend a lot of money to have someone do it and it's even more important to get it done right.


I useded Interlux 202 Fiberglass Solvent Wash. A quart should be enough. It may have been superseded by Interlux YMA601 Fiberglass Surface Prep. In either case use a lot of clean rags to wipe the hull down.

Or you could go to an automotive paint store (or Auto Zone,) they sell wax and grease remover for paint prep. A quart is all you should need. Look in the paint section or (gasp) ask.

I have seen boats with factory applied bottom paint which hadn't been properly cleaned and the paint peeled off. Clean the bottom first and second.

Boris