How Do You Install a Bronze Screw-in Bilge Drain

[Tim & Dave Kinghorn]

How did those of you with a bronze screw-in bilge drain plug go about the installation?

I assume you drilled the old hole over-sized (how big?), and then undercut to fill the whole thing with epoxy. Drill for a new drain tube and screw on the bronze fitting with the screw-in plug.

Did you epoxy the tube into the new hole?

I'd appreciate any input from those who have done this. Thank you!

Tim and Dave Kinghorn

[Dreamer]

Tim & Dave, I just installed two on the TomCat. After the holes were drilled in the transom, which has a foam core, I epoxied the inside of the hole, twice. No need to undercut since it is a fresh hole. I sealed the flange to the transom with 4200 and secured with bronze screws. See our album for the procedure.

Then, devise a fool-proof method of remembering the plugs at every launch!

[Levitation]

The method I use upon pulling the boat is to remove the plug to drain and place it on the dash right above the steering wheel while I do tinker stuff, tie downs, etc. then put the plug back in before driving away...
At home, if the boat is outside in a rain I pull the plug at supper time and put it on the table next to my plate... After supper I go put it back in... I do not let the boat sit with the plug out...
I have adopted this method because as my tooth has gotten longer my CRS has gotten shorter...

[Casey]

On a previous boat that had this type bilge plug, I mounted an additonal base plate on the inside of the transom, and kept the screw-in plug there.

I'm not sure why, but I actually prefer this type of plug versus the other type. Is there a practical reason for one over the other?

...while we're on the topic of bilge plugs - I've always put bilge plugs in from the outside, but I know some folks put them in from the inside. Is there a reason(?) or is it just personal preference? I know that on Whalers (and some other open cockpit self-bailers) folks like to put the plug in from inside to facilitate bailing while running, but I always just used the bilge pump if it was necessary.

Best,
Casey

[Sea Wolf]

[DaveS]

Thanks Joe for posting the reference to the "Great Inny Outy Debate". I tried to locate it as well, but was not successful. We should annoint you our "C-Brat Resource/Research Librarian", because you do such a superb job in those tasks. Hard to believe that the thread is from 4 years ago....my how time flies.

What I didn't remember was that the "thread" was 5 pages long. (I just skimmed over part of the thread and located my "Inny Outy Skunk Joke on page one of the thread .

Thanks,
Joe

[BrentB]

You can add a high water alarm for safety

[BrentB]

Interesting photo showing water absorption in foam
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/moisture_meters.htm

[Tim & Dave Kinghorn]

Hi Brent,

Thanks for the reference. It certainly ensures that you want to properly prepare any opening into a cored material whether the hull, topsides or other structures.

Tim and Dave Kinghorn

[Jack in Alaska]

My CD came equipped with a bronze 1 1/4" threaded drain plug and fitting. The plug has a 1/2" square indent for a ratchet wrench. This requires the wrench be readily available.
Does anyone know of a bronze 1 1/4" plug with a built in "T" handle ?????

I painted the plug face with white, then fluorescent red paint so it shows up when screwed in. I also mounted a plastic 1 1/4" cap on my motor extension and screw the plug into it for storage when not in the hull. I have not forgot it in two summers. I can see it from inside the boat when stored in the cap so it is easy to check just before launch. Works for me.

[BrentB]

is this it?
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productgroupdetail.aspx?cid=8533&did=8526

[Jack in Alaska]

B2,
That is exactly what I want but in a 1 1/4" diameter plug.
Thanks,
Jack

[BrentB]

Have you checked a plumbing supply company then braze on a handle?

[BrentB]

Are you sure about the size? A hardware store will have a nut and bolt with thread pitch gauge

[Jack in Alaska]

Positive on t he size. It is a big hole.