Wallas Thru Hull

Lynn Marie · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 10:17 pm Post subject: Wallas Thru Hull

Last season I found water in the cabin a couple of times and after thinking it was leaking around the door or through some other normal space I discovered that if I had water up the starboard side there was a small trickle of water coming in around the Wallas thru hull fitting. Guess that heat or something else has created an unprotected area between hull and fitting so I want to take it out and re-install with a new batch of sealant. My question is what to use to re-calk the fitting. Does anyone know what the factory uses or even better what the Wallas folks recommend?

Thanks in advance for the input,

Tim

Anita Marie · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 10:25 pm Post subject:

Tim, when I installed the fitting on Little Buddy it came with a high temp cork like material that compressed when you tighten up the screws. You may just need to tighten it or I think Scan Marine can get you a new gasket.

Fred

B~C · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 10:29 pm Post subject:

go to the local auto parts store and buy some high temp RTV

Adeline · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 10:53 pm Post subject:

Hey Tim, My thru-hull starting leaking too. Evidently the cork gasket lost its resiliency. I created a new one out of an old automobile inner-tube I had laying around. I left the original cork gasket in its recess so the rubber one rides a little "proud". The flange has a sharp edge that I did'nt want to mar the hull. Doubled cork would have worked good too. Pete

Adeline · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 10:56 pm Post subject:

I forgot to add that I did'nt use any sealants on the original install or the refurb either.

TyBoo · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:05 pm Post subject:

Tim -

How about this Gore-Tex Joint Sealant stuff? It says it's good to 600ºF. The highest temp on the Wallas exhaust I found was around 400º.

This stuff is a molded PTFE (like I know what that is), and comes in strips of a few different widths. It has an adhesive peel-and-stick strip on the back side to hold it in place for assembly. The cool part is, I just happen to have about a foot of the 1/2" wide stuff in my shirt pocket right now. Yeah - no kidding. I'll stick it in a baggie and set it on the boat trailer tongue just in case you want to try it.

If you really want hot-proof, I bet I can find some steam valve packing that would seal it up, too.

TyBoo · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:12 pm Post subject:

Why sure, PTFE is polytetrafluoroethylene. Everybody knows that. It's also known as Teflon.

It's on the trailer tongue already.

All I know is that each time we get a new mill manager, we do a massive million-of-dollars-to-the-junk-pile cleanup, and I snagged up a few feet of this stuff a long time ago to make MGB valve cover gaskets. Don't remember how it worked for that, but I have sealed up a whole bunch of stuff at work with it.

If I ever get a new boat, I think Polytetrafluoroethylene would make a great name. Lets see old Rev. Dave spit that one out after a couple beers!

Adeline · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:13 pm Post subject:

Lynn Marie · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:32 pm Post subject:

Mike,

Between your job and the Gizmo shop I'm not sure I'll ever need West Marine. Englunds, yes cuase they sell cool fish stuff. The baggie sounds great but it may be the week-end before I get there.

Having a dry boat ALL the time is important. Also started on my main cabin ceiling carpet project and that should keep things dry from the top side. Need to get the bunk of the TyBoo cleaned out so we can use some of this warm fuzzy scap in there before the cruising season starts.

Tim

TyBoo · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:47 pm Post subject:

Speaking of jobs, Tim, I just this weekend used that insulation stuff you gave me last year. I built a cabinet to go under the galley, and covered the top of it with the insulation. I stapled it on foil side up. Is that right?

I was concerned about the stove getting too warm on the underside with the cabinet top being just a couple inches below it, but using an infrared laser thermometer to watch it, there is no heat build up at all under there. I recently added a large area screened vent to the galley front, and also raised the stove up almost 1" to get the fan to blow over the top of the teak strip on the front of the counter instead of directly onto it. I ran the stove for several hours yesterday, and watched the temps. No problems. If you want to borrow that thermometer to check anything, I'll have it around home for a while yet. I do have to eventually take it back to work, though. By the way - 867º is the hottest spot I can find on the ceramic stove top.

I have been doing a bunch of other stuff inside lately, too. In fact, the drawers for that under galley cab are sitting on poor old Kay's dryer right now stinking up the laundry room with the smell of fresh stain. I'll have to give you a tour of the latest if you stop by next weekend. Don't expect to get in the front just yet, though.

DaveS · Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 1:13 am Post subject:

Lynn Marie · Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:04 am Post subject:

Mike,

Foil side out for the insulation is correct. Sounds like a good use for the stuff and I'll make sure to stop by and take a look. Think I'll be by sometime mid to late morning after a trip to the Astoria transfer station.

Tim

TyBoo · Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 11:18 am Post subject:

C-ruise Daddy · Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Posts: 1

I have had success using MarineTex for leaks on sections of a large heat exchanger that can't be removed without the use of a crane. It can withstand the temp. (water goes in as steam and comes out as hot water) It goes on like thick peanut butter and hardens like a rock. Never tried to remove the stuff though.

Chris · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:49 am Post subject:

Wallas recommends silicone in addition to the gasket for the installation of what they call the "leadthrough" (thru hull). The West Marine silicone claims it's good to 480F.
http://www.wallas.fi/pdf/leadthrough.pdf