Securing the rode to a cleat at Anchor

Tug

I known that this has been hashed over many times but i must be missing something.I know that you are suppose to secure the rode to the bow cleat while anchored to relieve the pressure to the Windlass. Well i tried that today...i anchored in a relatively calm bay and set the anchor. I went to the bow and tried to pulled the boat towards the anchor to get enough slack to cleat off the rode to the bow cleat. There is alot of tension on that anchor rode and not much space between the Windlass and bow roller and not alot of working room...It wasn't a pretty sight but i finally got it done....i do not want to do that again especially if there is a strong wind or current.My old back just will not take it.....is there an easier way to snub the rode to the bow cleat. Thanks Tug

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:20 pm Post subject:

Tug-

Simple solution:

1.) Tie the snubber line to the chain (or rope using a rolling hitch) between the windlass and end of the anchor roller.

2.) Tie the other end of the line to the bow cleat with a little slack.

3.) Now go back and let out a little more rode, and the tension transfers to the shorter snubber line.

(Reverse the procedure when weighing anchor.)

Joe. Teeth

Tug · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:26 pm Post subject:

Thanks Joe...for the information.....any pictures of this setup to see what it is suppose to look like. Tug

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:39 pm Post subject:

Captains Cat · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 5:11 pm Post subject:

Alternatively, if there is crew aboard, have the helmsman motor forward to take the strain off the rode and then secure it to the cleat. When getting underway, reverse the procedure.

Charlie

JamesTXSD · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:32 pm Post subject:

Tug · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:07 am Post subject:

I do most of my anchoring on a river so when i said relatively calm there still is a current. I really have no idea what scope i lay out, i usually anchor in no more than 30 feet and let out rode until i get a good set.I should get a line counter or at least mark my anchor rode in some way as to give me some kind of depth indication.I will put it on my list to do things.. I will try that rolling hitch today and see how it goes. Tug

Captains Cat · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:15 am Post subject:

Tug, if you use stranded anchor rode, they make little vinyl markers that you can push between the strands to mark scope. You really need to see how much you put out and, if in a current get that 5:1 or 7:1 out and into the water.

Charlie

Tug · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:24 am Post subject:

Charlie...i will do just that.....Thanks...Tug

Barry Rietz · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:42 pm Post subject: Anchor Snubber Line

Tug,

If you follow "Sea Wolf's" procedure but instead use a "made up" permanent anchor snubber line of approximately ten feet in length with a chain "grab hook" that is attached to the "bow eye" with a spliced "thimble", it will allow for more anchor line "scope" along with providing much better vessel motion while at anchor. The deployment would then call for you to "hook" onto the chain anchor rode outboard of the bow roller, paying out rode until the snubber is taught, and then slacking the chain from the windless.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:40 pm Post subject: Re: Anchor Snubber Line

matt_unique · Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 7:54 am Post subject: Strain

matt_unique · Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:28 am Post subject: Re: Strain

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 1:00 pm Post subject:

Point of clarification:

Some newer to the site or boating with a windlass may be wondering why all the fuss about removing the strain on the windlass.

The simple answer is that if the strain is left on the windlass at anchor, the pressure weakens the seals around the windlass shaft, eventually allowing water to intrude and eventually work down into the electric motor below.

Sooner or later the shaft, gears, and/or the motor below rust up, corrode, and the motor electrically shorts out as well.

There's more than one person on this site who has experienced this type of failure.

Joe. Teeth

Barry Rietz · Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:55 pm Post subject: Anchor Rode Snubber

Joe & Tug,
Chain "grab hooks" only come in one style and because they are used to rig in situations where there will always be "tension", have no securing clip or toggle. I have used both "bungee cords" and "lashings" to secure the hook from coming off in situations where the anchor rode would be subject to "slacking". The opposite end of the "snubber" line should have a proper sized "thimble" spliced to it and then a standard "shackle" is used to attach to the bow eye.
Barry Rietz
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