The 2010 Hunkydory adventures of Jay & Jo-Lee

[B~C]

I'll second that, great photo essay fer sure. Someday I'd like to get and and do some exploring like you folks, that Red Bluff Bay looks inviting.

It was nice to meet you two adventurers.

[El and Bill]

Thanks for the tales and great pictures- ah, the memories you brought back for us. We've been sitting here in the rain in northern Minnesota reminiscing about our trips up to Southeast.

Good job and prudent choosing during your trip. Best to you both.

[Hunkydory]

Had a wonderful summer which I'm happy to share. Thanks for the comments Am now working on Part 3.

Jay

[Hunkydory]

Part 3

7-29-10

We made it!!! This was one of the best sights to us on the whole trip. Around the Cape and through the today very small Eagle Rock rips and 50 miles of open ocean along the west Baranof Island coast. The fisherman had said they would let me know if the water was ok to go and At 9:45AM got the word from Puffin Bay which is a couple miles past the Eagle Rock rips that it was a go, so by 10AM was headed out the Port Alexander entrance. Puffin Bay is what we were trying to make on our first attempt. Knew that if we could make it past the rips there was many places we could duck into if needed. Cape Ommaney and the Eagle Rock rips behind us.


What I learned and did to make this as safe as possible in a 22' C-Cory is have the time and the patience to use it wisely making use of all the local knowledge that can be mustered. Port Alexander is a working town that can be on rough on cruise boat people who can't mesh with them. We smiled alot and laughed easy while showing interest in every part of their community. Many hours spent talking to the fisherman while at the same time being careful not to be in their way or stop them from their work. Also made sure the Hunkydory was not in the working boats space or way. Found all there to be enjoyable and free with their knowledge. In the Douglass's cruise book they state " it is a isolated and rustic frontier community and not a tourist port. Also the docks are crowded and the water has to be boiled to drink". We found the front dock could crowd up but never had to move to the back dock just moved the Hunkydory around when needed or told the fisherman to move if in the way and us not there. There isn't a public restrooms, showers, laundry or restaurant of any type. Jo-Lee found the small town hall and exchange library had a restroom and the building was not locked with a open to public notice on the door though it didn't have any lights after dark. There was a scow tied up by the dock that sold fuel and some groceries, but only there for a few months a year A new water treatment system has been installed, so the water is safe to drink. Bears have been a problem there the last two years. They have been breaking into homes and have been met on the boardwalk. This a photo of the boardwalk



We never saw it , but one had been seen around the town several times while we were there. Last but not least we actually talked to two fisherman who claim they mooned the Douglass's when they were there on cruise.

Stopped by Goddard Hot Springs and enjoyed a long soak in the hot tub. Was fortunate to have the place to ourselves with people leaving just before we arrived and others coming in just as we were ready to leave.


Tonight we're tied up to a buoy in Redoubt Bay by the falls and there's no wind or fog and just a light cloud cover. Supposed to rain tonight and tomorrow, but can see all of Edgecombe now for the first time.

Didn't see another cruise boat after leaving Red Bluff Bay until today when passing Whale Bay which is about half way up the coast from Cape Ommaney

74 miles today and 818 total

7-30-10

Finished the last 27 miles back to Sitka on one motor displacement speed. Took on 72 gallons of fuel to make the 320 mile cruise around Baranof Island. That's 4.44 mpg and we had 28 gal left so could have made it another 128 miles. Prior to this had made 518 miles on 100 gal for an almost 5.2 mpg. On our previous inland Passage cruises we averaged closer to 3.5 mpg, so displacement speed cruising when there is the time available and conditions allow increase dramatically the cruising range between fuel stops.

We got caught up on the mundane like grocery shopping and laundry and Jo-Lee helped me repair the anchor lite and level the radar dome and then went on a five hour walk about the Sitka downtown. I had already seen enough of that part of Sitka so just relaxed in the boat.

17 miles today and 835 total

7-31-10

8AM after a early morning shower and some last minute shopping we headed out north from Sitka in a thick fog and with the leveling of the radar dome we did yesterday the radar was off by about 30 degrees. Did a quick alignment on a buoy, so we're good again. Back to Salisbury Sound and through Sergius Narrows, peril Straight all in calm seas and the majority of time at displacement speed. Hit a south wind on Chatham Straight and pounded down to the first good anchorage which is where we are now in Cosmos Cove. Plan to work slowly back south to Red Bluff Bay or Gut Bay tomorrow if the south winds are down in the morning. Since the Wallas went down we have had many rainy foggy cold days with a few sunny and some in between and through this the combination little two burner Coleman stove and buddy heater has served us quite well. Don't run the Buddy Heater much during the day and dress a little warmer, but for the most part a light jacket is enough. As well as the back ups are working out we sure miss the dry heat of the Wallas especially in the mooring and evening when we would like to be a little warmer and if we use the Buddy heater the windows fog and ruin the view. We've already put an additional $1000 into the Wallas and its looking like it could be that much again to have for next year. Would love to have it working now and hate its being so unreliable.

87 miles today and 922 total

8-1-10

Work up to very lite winds and found Cosmos Cove to be an extremely buggy place.. They were around me like a cloud as I pulled the anchor. Displacement speed all the way to Red Bluff Bay. In and out of Ell and Waterfall Coves and Targatz, Cascade and Nelson Bays. Ell is a beautiful secure anchorage and the one we had hoped to anchor in last night. While checking it out going through the entrance passed fishing boats putting out there nets on the way back out the one "St John" was bringing in a good haul of fish. This a photo of boat. Was videoing the fish being brought in so no photo of that.


Stopped and dropped the lunch anchor in a small bite the furthest south in Nelson Bay. Another beautiful spot with waterfalls and creeks at the head.


Saw several whales and had a pod of Dall porpoises riding the bow for a while.

Had the strongest blowing wind we've seen in Red Bluff Bay this evening. A yacht anchored with a stern tie is having problems with the wind hitting it hard from the port side.

Saw two bears, one eating salmon berries on the shore behind the boat and the other swimming across the bay in front of us. Photo of swimming bear.


Went up the river in the Mokai and met a couple fly fishing there who were catching fish every cast. I had seen them go up earlier in kayaks and went to warn them about the bears. They were in the area where the guy going up to fish was charged by a bear when we were here eight days ago. They were old hands from the Palmer, Alaska area with lots of time in the bush and very bear savvy, but still appreciated the warning.

Just watched the yacht crew all dressed in smartly matching attire reposition it. Running lines back up the steep bank to tie off in the rain forest in a strong wind while the lords of the manor ate a full course meal. Yep I peeped with the 15 power stabilized binocs. The owners will probably return home bragging how they took their yacht to these wilderness areas.

There is a bear wandering the water edge of bear meadows. "Red Bluff Bay" What a Place!! Uniquely beautiful, safe anchorage, bears and fantastic fishing. No wonder after a week spent circling Baranof Island from Sitka we find ourselves back here again.

46 miles today and 968 total

8-2-10

All day at the head of Red Bluff Bay watching bears, fishing and enjoying the incredible beauty of this place. Ate salmon for dinner I caught in the river feeding the bay head.

Had an interesting experience and reaction from a bear today. Early in the morning had gone up to the north side of the bear meadows in the Mokai for a nature call (don't care to use the Porto Potty unless absolutely have to). The place I choose was behind a small knoll. When I finished my business decided to climb the small knoll which was only fifteen to twenty feet above the water to get a good view of the meadow for any bears. I was climbing the one side and a young bear was climbing the other. The first glimpse we had of each other was just our heads and it turned into kind of a staring contest. The bear was only about 30 yards away, but didn't act over aggressive though it might have been an act. The wind was blowing fairly hard, so I hadn't bought any bear spray but did have a bear banger, boat flare gun and shotgun. Decided to see what its reaction to a flare would be. I didn't want to hit the bear with the flare so it went off about 40 yards behind it. It jumped and ran about 20 yards to the side and stopped and just looked at me. I then tried a bear banger. These attach to the end of a small pencil like device that has a spring loaded firing pin and the banger is propelled just a short distance and goes off with a very impressive bang. This bang went off not very far over the bear and he made a good jump and ran another 20 yards, but not directly away and commenced to eat sedge grass while watching me out of the corner of his eye. I backed off the hill to the Mokai more perplexed then ever about bear behavior and enough adrenalin in my system to have no need for my normal two cups of coffee to start the day.

8-3-10

Left Red Bluff Bay again this mooring. This time to cross Chatham Straight entering Fredrick Sound by the south tip of Admiralty Island. 15 knot wind with gust higher blowing down Chatham Straight and us going north into it made for a bumpy crossing.



Looking out the port side to Pt Gardner and Yasha Island


By the time we were half way across was able to pretty much go straight up the wave trough and in these conditions that or preferably with the waves is much better to me then going directly into them or even quartering .

Turned very smooth when we got into Fredrick Sound and the protection of Almiralty Island. Many whales at least forty strung out in small pods on the west side of Fredrick Sound. Saw two breach. One less then a quarter mile away. Very impressive to see a whale come fully out of the water.

Stopped in Chapin Bay for lunch and we're now anchored near Snug Cove, Gambier Bay.

Collected bergy bits of ice today for our ice chest which was running low with our fishing net. Told Jo-Lee now if anyone asked hear if she had ever been ice fishing she could say yes and was very successful at it.

We saw a whale do something today we haven't seen before. It kept just its tail out of the water and was continuously slapping it hard against the water making very large splashes. The best I could tell there were three other whales fairly close to it. This behavior continued for at least 20 minutes. I think if any boats had been close and someone was watching they might have said it was giving a warning. Being as there was no boats around and the other whales were doing nothing I could tell different I haven't a clue why it was tale slapping. As we passed by we were never closer then half a mile.

All miles today on displacement speed on one motor. 80 miles today 1048 total

8-4-10

Early morning Jo-Lee and I go to shore on chock Island in the Mokai. Photo of anchorage from chock Island


Next back to Hunkydory and followed the shoreline of Gambier Bay. Again dropped day anchor and went to shore on the south west large Gambier Bay Cove. Big open meadow with a large stream full of salmon, fish jumping in the water, eagles and geese overhead, blue sky, no wind and warm. What a great time and place for a leisurely walk.



After a few hours back to boat and headed to what we call Security Cove in the very north end of Gambier Bay. Dropped the day hook again and soaked the sunshine in followed by a nap.


This old piling at the head of Security Cove is now an old dead wood platform for a new live tree.



About 5PM caught the flood tide up Seymore Inlet to Pleasant Bay with many whales to see along the way. This ones spout in the sun rays caught my eye


Pleasure Bay, what an aptly named small bay. Remember it as our favorite from our 2004 cruise when we explored all the bays of Seymore Canal. Found a great spot almost in the center of the bay looking out between two small Islands in the entrance. To the east is Sumdum Mt and glacier shinning from the golden setting sun. To the west is the head of the bay with mountain peaks framed between closer tree covered hills with a grassy shoreline lined with a eye pleasing variety of trees. These photos don't do it justice but its the best I could do.



In this setting is a stream entering the southern side of the bay. About went into scenory overload while taking a mokai cruise around the bay. The golden evening glow further enhancing the beauty, multiple eagles with the many different sounds they can make, fish continuously jumping and rippling through the water in front of the Mokai creating a bow wave in the water and the bear I saw at the stream entrance with the Hunydory setting quietly at anchor in the midst. It is a wilderness symphony of sight and sound and one I will reply over and over the rest of my life even while adding others to the repertoire.

35 miles today and 1083 total

[hardee]

Jayand JoLee,

Thanks for sharing both the photos and the dialog. Great photos, and album. Someday.........

Harvey
SleepyC

[El and Bill]

Wonderful tale - anxious for the next installment - some pictures didn't post, and we are impatient to see them. Repost in your tale, if possible.

And tail-slapping whales - our experience with a whale research crew we traveled with studying grey whales - they said it is "either long-distance communication with other whales" or an enthusiastic whale saying "here I am, and isn't this a great spot, and you sure look cute, honey."

And a quick question - the bears? What percent griz?

Keep up the tale - great to follow your adventure. Thanks and our best to you both.

[Casey]

Jay,

A great Tale, and photos as well; really brings back memories, and primes my pump for next summer (hopefully).

Lessons learned:
(1) Mokai's tow well in their upside-down Stealth Mode.
(2) Dip net's are good for catching bergie bits.

I'm keeping my Douglass map handy as a quick reference while following your story - really put's me in the right frame of mind.

Did you happen to record any GPS coordinates for places like the USFS cabin in Lisianski Strait, any remote docks, special sites, or mooring buoys among your route? I'm tempted to write-up a list of such stuff in Southeast that I've collected over the years. Sometimes it can be useful to know there's a backcountry float, buoy, or lodge "...just around the next bend."

Looking forward to seeing you soon.

Best,
Casey

[rogerbum]

Jay,

I really enjoyed the photo essay. Thanks for sharing it with us. I hope to get up that way someday (when work isn't too much in the way). As far as the whales slapping their tails. My suspicion is that they were in relatively shallow water and were dining on sand shrimp. I've seen that kind of behavior here in the Puget sound - especially at Possession point.

[Hunkydory]

El and Bill, if no one else was interested at all in this type cruising would still write it up and post it for you two. Have spent countless hours reading and re reading your "Halcyon Days". Find this an opportunity to give back just a bit. Don't know why the photos didn't post for you. Where we can't edit after 30 minutes can't see how I can make it work. The no editing makes my writing errors unfix able too.

Your answer to the tail-slapping whales fits in to what others have told me on the cruise. Glad to have it confirmed.

All the bears we saw on Admiralty, Chichagof and Baranof Islands were grizzly which made us somewhat more cautious around them.

With the new grandchild in Denver hope to swap summer tails there with you this winter.


Harvey, Thanks for the positive comments. Know how hard it is to do cruises like this when still working and how more difficult it can be the older you get, so sure hope the "someday" actually comes for you.

Casey, Can always count on getting a chuckle from your post.

That makes both of us with the Douglass map in hand. I find it handy when writing for jogging the memory and cutting down on spelling errors. Don't think spell check has any of these southeast places in its memory bank.

Didn't write down any GPS coordinates, but before the 500 mile track recording would start erasing track would save them, so can retrieve the coordinates from anyplace we were. Would be happy to share with you.

Still hope to see you if it works out at Oak Canyon, Lake Powell soon.

Best Wishes to all,

Jay

[Hunkydory]

Roger

I see you posted while I was answering the other post. Think you would really enjoy a cruise in that area. One great fishing spot after another with fantastic cruising to boot.

Don't doubt the whales dine on sand shrimp in the Puget Sound shallow water, but this water was well over a thousand feet deep, so think Bill's explanation the best in this instance. This seemed to be more rhythmic then what I think feeding would be.

Jay

[DaveS]

Jay, thank you for sharing your write-up and wonderful photos of your Alaska adventure! I really appreciate it!

[Hunkydory]

Dave S, Pleased you are enjoying the telling & looking and appreciate your appreciation

AND NOW BACK TO THE TALE

Part 4

8-5-10

A very pleasant day spent in Pleasant Bay. As I write this tonight we can hear whales whooshing out air by the islands at the bay. Have been asked if we have a sound system aboard the boat and what kind if we do. The answer is "yes we do and in the clearest enhanced stereo" only its definitely not electronic. In the places like this and most others we care to be either the stillness or what nature offers up is the sounds we prefer.

Caught and released salmon again today until my arms finally had to rest. Mokai rides around the bay and Island entrance. Walks along the shore and again saw a bear chasing fish. Photo of fish wave in front of Mokai.


Jo-Lee being the gun barer while walking with Hunkydory at anchorage behind. Boat hard to see.


Bear chasing fish at small river entrance


Yes, altogether a very pleasant day in Pleasant Bay.

8-6-10

Exited the Pleasant Bay entrance a 4:15 AM to catch the last of the ebb and lack tide down Seymore Canal to Huges Point then the flood all the way up Stephens Passage then through Holkham Bay and up Endicott Arm hitting the slack just right with no wait to cross the Fords Terror bar into the arm. Checked out Sanford Cove on the way by for possible future anchorage. Its the only anchorage on Endicott Arm other than Fords Terror. Sanford Cove is a poor anchorage due to very quick drop to deep water from shore. Would do in an emergency especially if the winds were from the south though I think a better choice would be the nook just inside the south side of the south entrance to Holkham Arm from a southern blow. The Sumdum clan of the Tlingit Indians helped guide John Muir in his explorations from Sanford Cove in 1897.

More icebergs to thread through in Endicott Arm than in past years. Ice chest again running low so netted more bergy bits. Heavy rain all day which has now turned to a light drizzle. As I write this while glancing out through the foggy windows at the mama bear and her cubs on shore makes me yearn for the Wallas Stove. Have been getting along surprisingly well with out it, but on days and especially evenings like this would love to have the dry heat and clear windows. Rain gear all wet from Mokai ride in the rain adding to moisture in the boat cabin.

The four black bears we have seen here in Fords Terror are the only black bears we've seen this cruise. All others have been the big brown kind. In the past have seen both grizzly and black bears in Ford's Terror, but only grizzly on Admiralty and Chichagof. Believe both are on Baranof with the grizzly being much more prevalent. The ABC Islands, that's Admiralty, Baranof and Chichagof are even called by many the Brown Bear Islands. This is one of the main reasons that have compelled my to try and circumnavigate them all. Yakobi Is some times included in this group and in the future hope to add that to our list of seeing all shores.

First time here in 2004 was one of our more memorable bad events it being our wild ride through the ebb tide rapids which cost us our computer, two cameras and a fish finder. We've come along way in experience since then but still feel capable of making a bad decision in the right or should I say wrong condition. Actually I've been very good at getting us or myself out of trouble its the decision that gets us there in the first place that with Jo-Lee's help we try to avoid.

57 miles today and 1140 for the trip

8-7-10

As happened both times before when pulling anchor to leave Fords Terror there was a bear on the shore to see us off. Could tell this one had been living well by hes fat belly almost dragging the ground. Wished the photo taken in the early morning light would have turned out.

Didn't know for sure when the ebb tide slack would be so showed up at the head of the rapid at 5:40AM which was Juneau slack tide time. Waited exactly 90 minutes for it to quit running, but better early then to miss. Flood slack was dead on to Juneau time.

Very dense fog going through the ice on Endicott Arm. Fortunately there was much less ice to navigate through then yesterday. Wind must have moved it to one side or other of the channel. Fog photo



Coming out of the fog


Decided to stop for the rest of day and night at Taku Harbor. Pretty little bay with a good free state dock. We were only the 3rd boat in but being its Saturday night its now pretty well filled by the mostly Juneau boats.

We walked to shore and looked over the old cannery and visited with others on the dock.. Met Ron Antaya who is here with a friend in his older 25 foot Nordic Tug. Was surprised to find out he worked for Casey in Katmai when C-Brat Casey was Chief Ranger there.

We especially enjoyed talking to Amelie and Yan from Quebec who came into the dock in a double Kayak loaded with more stuff then I'd ever seen on or in one. They had just came over from Admiralty Island where his back had gone out, then their cooking stove had quit and they had been laid up for in a tent for ten days. Bears had become more aggressive actually sniffing and touching the tent and with his back somewhat better and their food supply dwindling had headed here today hoping for tools to repair stove and food to purchase to continue on to Prince Rupert with Petersburg the short term goal. They had already this year kayaked Prince William Sound from Seward to Cordova. Many interesting stories like close call with oil tanker the fog crossing Hinchinbrook Entrance and Orcas jumping close by and looking them over very closely. Between us having tools to fix the stove and Ron's extra food and some from us if Yan's back holds up they're set to try again for Petersburg tomorrow.

This spirited young couple are a living lesson in carrying on a arduous adventure and still enjoying it in spite of severe adversity. Our time shared with them made us very glad to have decided to stop here in Taku Harbor tonight. The combination of it being so late in the season to reach Prince Rupert, a heavy somewhat overloaded Kayak and Yon's back and deep cough raises concerns in our minds for their safety, but they no what there up against and have chosen to continue on, so we can only wish the spirits to be kind and admire their courage and fortitude. Photo of Ron's Nordic Tug and Amelie and Yan's kayak and all the stuff they have to fit aboard. Regret not getting a photo of them with it.

This is a web blog on their adventures. Wished I could read french
http://projetkayak2010.blogspot.com/

55 miles today and 1195 total

8-8-10

Out of Taku Harbor with the flood tide headed for Auke Bay and made a slight detour out toward Point Retreat watching for whales. Didn't see any and that was the first time we didn't in that area.

Shortly after docking in Auke Bay There was a hail and knock on the boat and to our delight it was Richard of "New Moon" standing there. Had a wonderful through the evening time sharing knowledge and experiences. Richard is the author of the small cruising boat guide "Cruising in a big Way" which is an excellent small boat guide for anyone who is thinking about doing a Inland Passage cruise especially those with limited experience. Just as I thought it would be, we found Richard to be a great source of information and extremely enjoyable to be around.

Had planned on heading back up the Lynn Canal when weather aloud , but with some of the areas Richard shared with us we're thinking of heading back to Hoonah and exploring more in that area. Right now there is small craft warning on the Lynn Calal but OK in Icy Straight and the Northern Chatham Straight, so thinking of heading out in the morning and doing our grocery shopping there instead of here. The next four days have the largest tides of the year with Wednesday being 24 feet, so must be careful with the wind direction were ever we go.

8-9-10

To our surprise Blaine of the sailboat "Oystercatcher" whom along with Monique we had shared several very good days on Lisianski Straight at the forest service dock and shelter came walking up the dock while we were preparing to get fuel. Great catching up on where we both had been in the last almost four weeks.

Topped off the fuel tanks and extra containers and it took 74.7 gallons. Being we had traveled a hard to believe 405 miles since last fueling in Sitka we averaged 5.4 mpg on this leg. Still had enough to have gone another 100 miles plus. The slower paced displacement speed cruising really pays off in many ways.

Lots of whales around Point Retreat this time and only two foot chop on Icy Strait. Had good cellphone signal on Icy Strait so gave Casey a call and this time we connected. He had planned on seeing Port Alexander before all his pick up troubles, so was good to fill him in on the town and some of the highlights of the cruise so far. Says he still is thinking about this area next year, so we'll have some good discussions next time we meet.

Shopped in Hoonah for groceries. This is when we took the photo of the Hunkydory and the Tootsie Cat that I posted earlier in this thread. There is an extremely well stocked hardware and grocery store right by the fuel dock with a separate small dock to stop for supplies so very convenient. Instead of staying in Hoonah for the night decided to continue on up Port Fredrick and sure glad we did. While still with in sight of Hoonah we saw on the west side of the bay 32 eagles and two bears on a stream by the shore. While watching the bears and eagles with the binoculars Jo-Lee looked out the other direction and there was a male Orca going by not far from us. What a complete surprise. In over 5100 miles cruising the Inland Passage of which most where in out of the main route places this is the first orca we have seen. Many times the most delightful things happen on a cruise just like in every day life when you least expect it.


This photo of the Orca is in front of the same Chimney Rocks I photographed the Hunkydory in front of a month ago.


We tied up to a forest service dock near the head of Port Fredrick very near dark after going to the end of the arm that ends only a few hundred yard from the head of Tenakee Inlet. Many fish in the streams and am looking forward to bear watching tomorrow.

71 miles today and 1266 total

8-10-10

twenty plus miles exploring Neka Bay, Port Fredrick today in the Mokai. All the crab pots and a cabin turned us off to the bay when we were here 32 days ago. Should have given it the benefit of the doubt and explored more then. The river and open valley with meadows beyond the head of North Neka Bay is one of the most beautiful places I've seen. The fish are running and starting to die in the upper end of the river where I finally turned around. This photo taken mid way up this river. Stopped at the trees in the back ground.


Once I got up above the tide water and into flowing river water the banks raised and started closing in with trees and brush close by. Though I only saw one bear the grass along the river banks was flat and there's trails going in all directions from the bears. I was very wide eyed and trying to see in all directions while going up and down and to shore on the river. Plan on doing more exploring there tomorrow. Also hope to come back here another year in late May when the bears are more out in the meadows eating the sedge grass and it is not high enough to prevent me from surprising one. Being in the river or walking in the meadow with the fish running knowing the bears are very near but not exactly where is very unnerving.

During the day saw four guys from Hoonah fishing from the cockpit of a unnamed 22' C-Dory and it looked like it was working OK for them. Photo of them


41 miles today and 1307 total

8-11-10

7AM met a guy who was coming down to the forest service dock we were tied up to for the night to get into his small Boston Whaler to go across the bay to work. He has lived out here for six years year around in a camp by himself and is a contract worker for the Forest Service thinning new growth in the logged areas. He had a big bore pistol in holster strapped to his chest and also a large caliber rifle. Was wearing rubber hob nailed boots and other logging cloths. I heard him coming from his camp to the dock on a ATV from where he is camped year around in a tent. Had a very interesting conversation about living and working mostly alone in this extreme bear country. He advised me to be very careful or preferably not to walk in the meadow areas where there is many small stream branches with fish running. The grass is chest high and the bears cannot be seen until very close. I have been careful as possible but decided not to push my luck anymore in these areas. I had been giving myself the same warning signals so good to see my self preservation system is still working well. Would have loved to learn more from him but he had to start work. Jo-Lee and I then sat in our chairs at the dock drinking our morning coffee and enjoying the music of the eagles and ravens.

Photo of me taking early morning coffee on the forest service dock where we spent several nights. Photos taken the morning before we met the Logger.


And of Jo-lee on the dock ramp which would go from almost vertical to horizontal with the extreme tides. The loggers Boston whaler is about to be grounded


Then a slow cruise to Hoonah. Right in front of the town two whales were feeding when we arrived. Shut off the motor and watched them about the boat doing their thing. Tried my best to get photos, but thats a tricky proposition with whales. The sights and sounds you see just don't transfer very well. I try with the camera to capture that moment in time we're experiencing, but there is hardly a single moment that does the experience justice enough so others not there can get a since of the wonder.



In Hoonah got our laundry done and was planning on a night at the dock, but when the Harbor Master wanted an addional ten dollars for the Mokai that doesn't take up additional space on a long dock I told him we would find a place to anchor instead. This is the Harbor Master with a 405 lb halibut caught by a charter boat. Was very interesting to see a halibut that large but was more unhappy with it being kept then with the Harbor Master wanting to charge more for the Mokai.



So at 6PM off accros Icy Strait to Swanson Harbor which along with Couverdon Cove is located at the north junction of Icy Straight and Chatham Straight.
Photo of the Hoonah Port Fredrick area while crossing Icy straight.


We had anchored there before and knew just wher we wanted to go. Has been blowing hard on the Lynn Canal for a week now and tonight its calling for 25 knots with maybe a small break tomarrow morning that we hope to take advantage of for a run to Haines.

39 miles today and 1346 total

[jkidd]

At first glance the picture of the orca. I thought what is the Lockness monster doing up there. Maybe just on vacation.

[Hunkydory]

Jody, I see what you mean about the Orca photo. Now we know how they faked the photo



Part 5 the last part

8-12-10

Up very early to catch as much high tide as possible for very tricky maneuvering from Swanson Harbor to Couverdon Cove to save run around Couverdon point which separates the northern Chatham Straight from Icy Straight. High tide was 3 AM and had just enough light by 4:20 to head out. The pass is marked with 6 inch poles set in three two pole sets of only 30 feet width. Then if going west to east like we were there is a single pole almost bent over that marks the northern shallows into Couverdon Cove. What isn't marked and I had to trust the map drawn in the Douglass cruising guide is coming out of the last set of poles were rocks awash in the current dead ahead with more only about forty feet to the left. My instinct was to go around them both but the map showed going directly toward the last pole and then curving to the right into couverdon Cove with the two rocks widely spaced to go between, so didn't know if the two rocks we saw were actually one rock with another further south just under the water. Anyway we went right between them very slow after idling between the last set of poles in the current and near dark while trying to made sure we were following the directions correctly. This early morning pass crossing turned into one of the most dicey events of the cruise. A good thing we found the water up the Lynn Canal calm for we thought the excitement quota for the day already topped off. Love a challenge, but looking back it was poor judgement on my part to attempt this without checking the area out during low tide conditions. That way even with the low morning light I would have known for sure the right course and it would have just been a case of tight boat maneuvering. Think it was a case of over confidence gained by what we had accomplished so far and letting down our guard when close to the finish line. I would not go through this pass again even though we made it through OK this time without now checking it at low tide first.

Anchored in Lutek Inlet by Haines to take Mokai up river hoping to see bears if the fish were running. Well the fish were running but all I seen on the banks were fisherman, so I wished I could say up anchor and off to Haines, but it was blooper time for us. Seems like at least once each cruise we have to pull something really dumb and this on the next to our last day on the ocean this year was it. Yes off we went and then a sudden hard tug and power loss. At least the prop just cleanly cut the rode, but our 22 lb Bruce style anchor with chain, swivels ect is another contribution of ours to Ole King Neptune. Now with chain ect bought in Haines have to make do with the eleven lb spare.

The wind came up behind us about 20 knots the last few miles into Skagway. Enjoy following seas of 15 to 20 knots if the swells aren't to big, but that combined with the huge cruise ship wake coming toward us made for a few seconds of very rough seas. Have passed many large boats and ships in different conditions and distance from us and this was the first that actually gave us some real concern. Didn't try to quarter the wake like normal instead just turned directly into it and slowed down enough to just power over the waves while trying not to fall off them and bury the bow. Can't say it worked totally.

Have been out for six weeks and Skagway is a much quieter place then when we left near the 4Th of July. Still busy in town with the cruise ships but even though its a weekend the docks are quiet. Skagway sure looks the same to me in this photo as when we were there in 2007



119 miles today and a grand total of 1565. Used a total of 313 gallons so averaged 5 mpg on ocean cruise with a very heavily loaded boat.

8-13-10

Quiet restful morning and early afternoon waiting for the tide to come up enough to load the boat on trailer. Have had four extreme tide days of over 20 foot range.

Weather has turned warm and clear so beautiful drive the 126 miles to the Atlin road where we spent the first night out of the boat in six weeks. Actually felt weird and made me a little sick sleeping in the camper. The longer we were in the boat the better we adapted to it and the bigger instead of smaller it seemed to be. If we make it back up next year and we plan to think we will leave the camper behind. It lowers our fuel mileage from almost 15 mpg to ll.5mpg and the small added comfort I don't think is worth the heavier feel and cost.

8-14-10

Total of 156 miles from Skagway, Alaska into the Yukon Territory and then about 30 miles down into British Columbia to the small town of Atlin located on one of the premier lakes for beauty in the world. It is a 90 mile long glacier carved lake with many channels and islands with the Juneau ice fields directly to the west and the Llewellyn glacier coming out of it to a point only five miles from the lake. Many other glacier streams feeding into the lake giving it a beautiful turquoise green color near the streams then changing to different crystal clear hues further out into the lake body.

Drove south out of Atlin thirteen miles to Warm springs Bay hoping to launch the boat there and leave the pick-up in a camp site. It was full up so long dusty road trip for nothing. We had explored the lake ten years ago in a small RIB out of Warm Springs Bay and was hoping for a repeat with the Hunkydory. In town found we could launch the boat and store the pick up and trailer for no charge in what looked to a secure spot. So after one day back in the water again. This photo is taken on the road between Atlin and Warm Spring Bay and looks to the west across Atlin lake to the white area of Llewellyn Glacier.


This is the rig by a restored lake boat that was used to ferry passengers to Atlin when it was a destination for the very wealthy early in the last century.


Walked on shore and several hours in the Mokai. Night spent at the head of Williston Inlet. Hunkydory bow on the beach Williston Inlet.



29 miles today

More walking and Mokai riding on and near the shore of Williston Inlet then slow cruised most of way to Llewellyn Inlet. Photo of glacier silt mixing with Atlin Lake.


Tied the boat up to a buoy there in front of the trail head to Llewellyn Glacier.


Then made two attempts with the Mokai to go up the Llewellyn River to the lake and the calving glacier. Thwarted both times by the glacier silt, rocks and fast water. River so thick with silt that rocks and shallows can't be seen just under the surface. Mokai jet intake would plug if it contacted the shallow silt then I would lose power and drift back or sideways into the fast deep water with rocks. Would have to paddle furiously trying to maintain control while either attempting to make shore or restart the motor.

Starting up the river



looking up stream after stalling between last large rock and shore on right in shallow silt


Down stream view


Tried again and made it another half mile taking the outside route through the rocks then again grounded, drifted back got turned around and then grounded again with dead motor going down stream. Looking to left while grounded which led over a several feet drop.


And right with bad rapid and very sharp turn and overhanging alders just out of view. Pondered my options while just sitting here. Decided on the straight ahead or slightly right route and rocked the Mokai forward thinking two quick pulls on the starter rope and if that doesn't work use the paddle. It started on the second pull.


Gave it my best but just to risky to continue trying. Am just about back to the lake here


Later talked to a guy who had a plane fly him and some friends into the lake and they had come down the river in inflatable kayaks, but had to portage the area that was stopping me going up. Had seen their tracks on the bar I had stopped at and wondered who could have left them. From his description I stopped only a 100 yards from where I could have continued on will little trouble. Still glad I stopped cause it could well have been a 100 yards to far. This photo is of lake and hard to see good part of the river I was attempting to make.


Gently swinging on the anchor tied to the buoy tonight. The weather is still clear and good but views tonight are being obstructed from the huge forest fires in the Yukon. Yesterday talked to a person in Atlin who said that Highway 37 in the Yukon which is called the Cazziar Highway has been and maybe still is closed. This is the west section one can take through Canada to reach Alaska and is the way we came up.

18 miles today 47 total on the lake

8-17-10

Cruised up to the head of the lake. Glacier rivers from the warm weather are running to much water to attempt going up in the mokai. Beautiful vistas around the lake, but no animals and very few birds so boat back on trailer to head south.

61 miles today 108 total on the lake

8-17-10----9-2-10

Cazziar Highway was being opened some days only from 9PM to 6AM and traffic had to go in a convoy. Didn't want any part of convoying through the dusty rocky construction areas so make going back the regular Alaska Highway an easy choice. At least 400 miles of driving through thick smoke. Was planning on stopping and seeing Marty and other folks in the Washington Puget Sound area, but the shock after being on the water and mostly wilderness highways to the Seattle traffic was just to much. Couldn't get out of there quick enough. Some good time spent with Jo-Lee's relatives in southern Washington and then with mine in Northern California and then back home on September 2ND. Only truck or trailer problem on trip was a blown trailer tire near Salem. Made a quick change and only had to drive less then 4 miles and the first exit off the freeway to buy a new tire. In fact the price was so good I bought two.

[Hunkydory]

While waiting at Port Alexander to round Cape Ommaney to go up the west open ocean coast of Baranof Island the folks connected to "Laughing Raven Inn" were extremely friendly and helpful to us. Providing weather advice, local knowledge of how best to transit the Cape and just great camaraderie while sharing free beer with me.

Their web site http://www.portalexander.com/gallery.htm has a fantastic slide show of the Community, Lodge, Lodge Kitchen, fishing and fishing vessels.

The photos as good as they are still don't do the unique beautiful lodge and setting justice. For any wanting a experience such as what they have to offer I think this Lodge to be unbeatable. Much more impressive to me than what I seen at Pelican or Elfin Cove.

Jay