The 2010 Hunkydory adventures of Jay & Jo-Lee

[Hunkydory]

All's ready and we're off in about a hour. Doing title and registration of new to us Mokai will have to wait until our return.

Man o Man it don't get any better than this!!! Retired, healthy and off to Alaska with my best friend in a truck camper pulling a C-Dory with the Mokai on top and no time restrictions. What a feeling!!!

Jay

[moabarch]

Just in case you are interested, I talked with Mokai today and they gave me the reasons for switching to the Subaru engine, whcih was they had to meet new EPA standards and couldn't do it with the Honda engine. They said they almost had to quit making the boats. then they started working with Subaru who helped them develop this engine which met the specs. While it was not their orginal intent to look for more power, it turned that this engine is putting out up to 40% more power and close to the same mileage. They are also working on a quieter muffler system which you will be able to change out with the existing one whenever quiet trumps power.

I ordered two of these things and will give a report when I get them - but they are 5 weeks out from making deliveries, so it'll be a while.

As to retirement - congrats! we will be joining you in retirment next year and hope to make a trip similar to what you are doing now!

[Yellowstone]

Jay & Jolee - Best wishes for a safe and enjoyable trip up north. Edna and I parted from El and Bill on Big Horn Lake yesterday after a few days of fantastic boating. We put in at Barry's Landing on Friday waiting for Edna's arrival after arriving on Thursday evening. The Big Horn Lake is four feet above full pool (last time was over 50 years ago) and spilling of course. The amount of drift wood in the lake was annoying, but we had excellent weather. We couldn't visit the dam itself and visitor center because of homeland security issues, but we saw the the important parts of the lake. We did over 80 miles of travel and anchored in choice areas all by ourselves. The NPS has floating toilets on the lake about every 6-7 miles or so, even with hand sanitizers, which surpass anything I have ever seen. Folks within driving distance of Big Horn Lake are missing a real treasure if they want to get into a truly unique boating experience. This has been a very wet year in the canyon, and all the wild flowers and vegetation is lush. El & Bill will be writing it up later. Take care. John & Edna

[El and Bill]

Sorry to have missed you folks as we moved north through Wyoming and Montana - sure understand why and good wishes on your trip north.

[jkidd]

Have a great and safe time. Looking forward to your stories and pictures. Here is the reply from Mokai about upgrades.

At this time there is not a conversion kit available for the older MOKAI's. We are evaluating the cost, skill set and time it would require customers to facilitate this change. In addition the the engine, the engine cover, choke and throttle cables, engine plenum duct and the drive shaft on the jet drive have to be changed.

In the event we decide to offer such a kit it would be announced on our web site.

[Hunkydory]

Hello All, from Port Alexander, Baranof Island, South East Alaska.

Our computer is on the blitz and not even from a rapid, so am writing this from the Bear Den which is the town meeting hall with computers provided.

Two nights ago was in Red Bluff Bay and last night Patterson Bay 20 some miles south. This moring after stopping here tried to make it around Cape Omney for run up west coast of Baranof Island to Sitka. North west wind and tide rips to much. Made it around the Cape, but was taking to much of a pounding to continue, so about face and back here to Port Alexander. Am planning on another try tomarrow. Have already circled Admiralty and Chichagof so would like to finish the ABC's of the brown bear islands. Won't press it if it looks and feels to bad. Great little spot to wait it out if needed.

Have lots of adventures and photos to share, but they will have to wait untill our return.

Jay

[jkidd]

Glad to hear your having a good time stay safe and maybe will meet up some where when you return.

[El and Bill]

Trip sounds great so far - glad you are minding the weather. Always better safe than sorry.

Looking forward to your tales and pictures. Bon Voyage!

[Hunkydory]

Back to Haines today. had to wait several for the Lynn Canal to calm down. Last night was at Swanson Harbor at the junction of Icy Straight and North Chatham Straight. Should be off the ocean in a couple days then headed to Atlin Lake in the Yukon. Haveing a great time.

have lots of tales to tell and photos to share upon our return home.

Jay

[El and Bill]

Arlin Lake - ah, been a few years since we were there. Didn't get out on the lake but sure looked great - keep having a safe and wonderful time. All our best El and Bill

[Hunkydory]

We're back home safe and sound and its time to start sharing the adventures. 5870 miles on the Pickup and another 1673 logged in the Hunkydory with a couple hundred more in the Mokai. The telling is to long to write at one time so will share in parts. Hope you have a small fraction of the enjoyment reading about it as we did living it.

Part One

June 28 to July 3

Uneventful (very good thing) 2300 mile drive up from Cokeville Wy to Skagway, Alaska. Had hoped to meet Casey at the Ice fields in Jasper National Park, but his truck troubles prevented that. Was a good no charge beautiful spot to spend the evening and night. Up the Cassiar highway again and for the most part its in better shape than past years. At least the paved sections were not full of jagged pot holes. There was some lengthily construction sections that we prudently slowed down to under 20 mph for to prevent rock damage to the boat. Took us six days so arrived Skagway, Alaska the 3rd of July. $10 to launch and retrieve boat. $6.65 per night fee for the dock and $65 per month to store the truck and trailer which cost we were very pleased with. Gas at Skagway about $4 a gallon. Made a quick seven mile run out into the bay to check if auto pilot would work. Had bought a new Garmin 545 and had connected it to the auto pilot at home, but never put the boat on the water there to check out my work. Wind blowing 25 plus knots so very choppy but a big thumps up. It worked great. The town and cruise lines put on one of the better fire work displays we've seen. Lasted for well over an hour. Even with the midnight light it was beautiful and brought reflections to mind of the creation of this wonderful country.

This mob run lose about the docks and though a pleasure to watch they sure left some stinky messes behind.

Boat 7 miles today

7-4&5-10

Winds blowing non stop day and night 20 to 35 mph and looks like they will continue through Tuesday, so we spent time walking about town, relaxing on the boat, catching up on the log and making cell phone calls to family especially parents of our brand new grandchild.

7-6-10

4AM left Skagway with small boat advisory still in effect for the water to Haines. Early morning winds down some, so slow cruised to Haines with some heavy chop, but not unsafe. Really like Skagway but just to many people there from the cruise ships, so happy to be gone. Enjoyed walking about Haines and even stopped in at a small cafe and had some delicious muffins and coffee. The eating away from the boat is a rarity for us, so when we do its a real pleasure especially when really good and it was.
16 miles today and total 23

7-7-10

Up and gone again at 4AM with light winds and no clouds. Displacement speed on one motor for all but about 10 miles to Hoonah. Another good trip down the Lynn Canal hope King Neptune isn't saving the bad stuff up for our return. With the autopilot doing the steering made for a beautiful relaxing run. Arrived Hoonah about 8 PM with the Harbor Master gone and with plans of leaving early again in the morning will save a few bucks for boat parking tonight. Most other harbors unlike Hoonah have a card and drop for payment to collect in situations like this.


Met a couple who live near Whitehorse, Yukon Territory who were docked near us. He had spent many years from the 1960's on trucking on the Alaska and Cassiar Highways. Had many interesting stories to tell. They said we could store our truck and boat trailer at their place4 for cruise on Tagish lake if it worked out for us.

Hoonah has a very good boat harbor and the town is mostly made up of Indian Alaskans and set in a typical Southeast Alaska small town picturesque setting. Talked to one elderly Native Lady and she told me there tribe moved to the Hoonah area during a time when the glaciers where advancing and they had to leave there previous village.

It has several good places to eat out and a well supplied hardware and grocery stores with what I considered reasonable prices. Also boat gas more than 30 cents per gallon less than Skagway. In future will go from Skagway with just enough fuel to load up in Hoonah.

photo of the Hunkydory and the Tootsie Cat tied up to the Hardware and Grocery store dock.


97 miles today and total 120

7-8-10

Up and gone again at 4AM to make early morning 25 mile run up to Neka Bays. In south Neka there was a cabin with smoke coming out the chimney and hundreds of crab floats in the bays. Found the area somewhat less then we expected it to be though Chimney Rock and Island near there was very interesting.

Back to Hoonah by noon for fueling and ice then off to Elfin Cove. With me still not in the groove of I "now have plenty of time" headed up Icy Straight with what was supposed to be 15 to 20 mph winds. The winds were probably not much more then that but with the ebb tide they were steep and very close spaced . Had given us an extra hour even at displacement speed to make either slack or flood tide at South Inian Passage and needed every bit of it with having to slow at times for waves to 2 mph to not fall off the back side.

Thick fog going through South Inian Passage so had the radar on and by that time the flood was on so water fairly smooth coming out into the swell of Cross Sound.

Three whales and many porpoises feeding in the Inian Passage current just in from Cross Sound and saw at least 25 more whales during the day. Arrived Elfin Cove after 9PM and all the docks were full so anchored in the inner harbor. We were both pretty beat from the days run, so with being tucked in to a totally secure anchorage went immediately to sleep. The 40 mile run from Hoonah to Elfin Cove took us 8 Hours.

70 miles today and 190 total

7-9-10

By 9AM many cruise boats had left the docks so moved over to the further north dock just outside the harbor. The commercial king salmon season had just ended, so many fishing boats waiting to unload to their buyer's and getting cleaned up and ready for the next run. Majority of day spent talking to very friendly fisherman.

C-Brat Ken who Captains a charter boat here was not finished up to near 6PM and had to made an extra early run in the morning so was only able to chat with him for a short while. Wished it could have been more. Really enjoyed the visit we had.

No charge for the Elfin Cove slips, but must arrive early cause its on a first come basis. Good clean showers with high water pressure. $3 for 10 minutes.

I'm not much of a fisherman but for those who are Elfin Cove I think would be hard to beat. The charter boats were bringing in some very impressive fish and the little town's setting is beautiful and set up well for small touring cruise boats.

7-10-10

Up yet again for 4AM run to Pelican. Very thick fog with rain, but at least no wind. Higher winds called for later. Preferred the fog to the chop on icy Straight, but kept fingers crossed that the GPS signal would hold. New what bearings and distance are needed to complete run, but with Islands to avoid my skill level might come up short without the GPS.

Yesterday the captain of a fishing boat out of Pelican had fallen to sleep while on auto pilot and run his boat up on the rocks at speed, so we detoured over to Lisianski Straight from Lisianski Inlet to check it out and take photos.

Family and friends were trying to patch and then re float. Love our auto pilot but this guys mishap goes to show you still have to stay awake just like when steering by hand.

Didn't know if it could be done but Pelican town folk said if anyone could get it back afloat and then to a safe harbor it was the family and friends who working on it. From this photo you can see they were successful.


So far have found Pelican to be a great disappointment from our last visit here in 2007 when it was our favorite of all the towns we have been to in Southeast Alaska. The town has fallen on very hard times with the recession and then closure of their cannery. No grocery, hardware or even showers and laundry available. The commercial fishing urns are down and the charter verses commercial emity is running even higher then in the past. In Skagway, Haines, Hoonah and Elfin Cove the people were very upbeat and friendly and were like that in Pelican too in 2007. Though still in a beautiful setting it now seems to have a dark cloud hanging above. The town is broke and without services like showers, laundry and groceries they will continue to loose the fisherman and small cruise boats. Seems to me Pelican is in a downward spiral with the ground coming up hard and fast. My opinions here could be effected by the weather which has been and continue to be very wet and windy.

Rainy and windy all afternoon. No end in sight for fog and high winds and rough seas on the outer coast of Chichagof Island, so don't know how long we're have to wait for return to Black Bay and Anna and Sister Lakes. If the weather backs off at all tomorrow plan on making a run up to the head of Lisianski Inlet. Found it to be a wonderland well above our expectations in 2007, so hope it unlike Pelican still holds its magic.

34 miles today and 224 total

7-11-10

Up to the head of Lisianski Inlet. Saw one small bear. Very heavy rain mot of the day. It finally turned to clouds and no wind towards evening. Kept the Wallas running on max all day and finally dried the inside of the boat, cloths ect. The Wallas is great when its runs. Have our fingers crossed so it will continue to do so. Have the Buddy Heater for back up heat and Coleman stove for cooking should it fail. The Coleman Stove is also good for cooking a quick meal or coffee when the heat of the Wallas isn't needed. Today with the rain and temps hovering in the low 50's it felt great

23 miles today and 247 total

7-12-10

Pelican still has fuel though it runs 4.77 per gallon. After fueling left for old mine dock and forest service shelter cabin on Lisianski Straight to wait out bad weather on the outside of Chichagof Island. Seas there 14 feet today. Two heavy high powered aluminum boats stopped by for rest stop both loaded with Kayaks and passengers being taken to Myraid Island which is part of the Islands protecting Ogden Passage. They had come through Inian middle passage during a strong tide and already had a very rough ride. When the paid passengers were out of hearing the Captain's told us the passengers hadn't seen anything yet. They were headed toward the water we went through in 2007 which wasn't good and its much rougher out there today. On there way back by the more experienced Capt stopped again and told us we were in the right spot today and had made a good decision to stay put. This is a photo of the two boats.


Spent the rest of day fishing, watching eagles and otters and even cooked my own fish dinner. Also went for a ride in the Mokai and saw a bear about a mile from the dock. Mid day day three guys from Pelican arrived at the dock on a 30' Osprey towing a powered aluminum skiff with a front ramp loaded with two Honda ATV's. They made the trip up to the old mine site and cabin. Told us they had a good time. Very interesting watching them unload and load the ATV's on the shore.

Jo-Lee by fire pit outside cabin.


7 miles today 254 total

7-13-10

Up again at 4AM to check conditions at the Lisianski entrance. Weather report is saying small craft warnings. No place we wanted to hang around so after checking out Lost Cove headed to Stag Inlet. Fished there and caught a nice Yellow tail for dinner. Back to the dock and and forest service cabin and fired up the stove in the Cabin.

While eating Blaine and Monique Anderson former owners of the 22 foot C-Dory, C-Worthy out of Whittier, Alaska, showed up in a 32' sailboat. They are on the 2nd year cruise of the Inland Passage and next year hope to continue on up the outside to Prince William Sound. They had just come in from the outside and Mirror Harbor, White Sulfur Hot Springs and up from Sitka. They said water out there today was no place for a 22' C-Dory and had challenged them at times. Great folks to swap stories with and get the latest on the area between Sitka and here which is where we are headed on our nest leg when the weather co-operates. While talking to them the Tom Cat, "Tootsie Cat" came by. It had been at Mirror Harbor with Brian and Monique. They were surprised it had come in. I guess its chalk one up to the "Cat" cause they went where we were afraid to tread today.

For those interested this is Blaine and Monique's web site. http://oystercatcher-sail.blogspot.com/

32 miles today and 285 total

7-14-10

Running out of wood for the stove at the forest service cabin so made a run into Pelican for wood. Someone had given some wood to the Harbor Master and when I questioned him on where I could buy some He generously gave me some. Blaine and Monique made the several mile walk up to the old mine site and cabin. We spent the evening with them sitting around the cabin stove looking out at the changing tides and wildlife while swapping tales, drinking good beer with the quite hum of the water moving on Lisianski inlet and waterfalls on the far shore. Fun day with superb company.

[Walldog]

Great Post, thanks keep them coming.

[Hunkydory]

Part 2

7-15-10

Blaine and Monique shoved off today for Pelican. Hope to see them again next year maybe at PSW. We spent a quiet day chopping wood and keeping a hot fire going to dry out everything we could from the boat. Only one day since leaving Skagway without rain and at times it coming down in the proverbial buckets. Weather finally supposed to be OK tomorrow on the outer coast of Chichagof Island. Have sure enjoyed the last four days waiting for ti to clear. Wonderful to not have a time table for any place we have to be. Photo of me in front of the shelter.


7-16-10

Early 3:30 AM start for passage down Lisianski Straight to catch slack water at inlet followed by run down outer Chichagof Island to Imperial Passage and then smooth water Ogden and Superior Passages to Klag Bay and Anna and Sister Lakes.

Looking back think one of the highlights of this summer could very well be the laid back enjoyable time spent in and around the forest service cabin on Lisianski Straight.

Seas on outer coast only 5 feet but heavy rain and thick fog made the run a bit more intense then we would have preferred. Made a swing further out into the ocean to avoid the rocks and kelp.

Finally flipped the Mokai while under tow with the Hunkydory . Went in close to the Sister Lake tidal entrance to check conditions and while making a tight turn the Mokai spun in a small whirlpool causing one of the bridal lines to catch on the GPS mount. This flipped it immediately. Must say it road and towed very well upside down till we cleared the swirling water and got it flipped back over. Not enough water got in to warrant removal of cover and bailing immediately. Waited to after anchoring in Sister Lake. Fairly easy getting water out of engine. No water in the crank case, so had it running in a couple of hours and then made a several mile run through the islands watching sea otters, sea lions and seals.

And interesting observation to us involving the bears and sea otters. Have only seen four bears so far this trip and none in the Black Bay and Sister Lake area. In early June 2007 saw many along the shore and always several at the head of Lisianski Straight, Black Bay and Sister Lake. Think July to be the low bear viewing time for boat cruisers due to the sedge grass being now mature and the fish not yet running. The sea otters which we saw in large groups in Ogden and Superior Passages were gone except for a very few. Found them again in big numbers though not in large groups in Anna and Sister Lakes. Most had pups with them.

Concerning tides and currents. In the Douglass cruising book "Exploring Southeast Alaska" it says the tides at Sister Lake are 2.5 hours after Sitka. The Garmin 545 tide chart was off the same 2.5 hours for this area. We were there 2.5 hours early due to its report and that was why we were in close checking the current when the Mokai flipped.

77 miles today 377 total

7-17-10

Up early from a quite night other then a couple of very loud loones (not us) anchored in Lister Lake. Out on the high slack tide. On Anna Lake met a flotilla of Indian skiffs of at least eight boats. Never talked to them but think they are setting up for fishing at the entrance to Sister Lake. Back out Elbow Passage from Klag Bay to Slocum Arm Khaz Bay. Found three bears each in Waterfall Cove and the head of Slocum Arm, so there not all back in the bush picking berries.

Thick fog and rain in the morning, but by evening had some blue in the sky and zero wind. Both very welcomed. Night achored in beautiful Double Cove off Khaz Bay. Couldn't help but think of New Moon, Richard and his stay here after encounter with seaweed in Piehle Passage and 20 plus foot seas outside Khaz Bay in the 22 foot C-Dory he owned at that time.

For those not knowledgeable about this area its a very remote Alaska wilderness area on the outside coast of Chichagof Island.

Have called New Moon on channel 16 several times after I hear another boat trying also. So far no answer back.

42 miles today and 429 total

7-18-10

Wallas stove acting up. Fan blower not working so stove overheating. With smooth seas on the west outside coast of Chichagof Island decided to set out for Sitka. A good place for parts or for Scan Marine to send them to us. Water stayed calm on the outside and the last 30 miles after reaching protected waters switched again to one motor displacement speed. So far have averaged 5 mpg and with us carrying almost 100 gallons of fuel have max range of almost 500 miles.

After docking at Sitka took the Wallas apart enough to see problem with stove is motor slipping inside the fan bushing. The electric motor shaft is bonded to the fan bushing with glue so will pick some up at the hardware store tomorrow.

Nine days since the last shore showers were available at Elfin Cove so the good facilities at the Sitka Harbor were very Welcome.

53 miles today and 472 total

7-19-10

Worked on the Wallas again. Won't know till tomorrow if the bond will take. Spent most the day walking around Sitka sight seeing.

A guy working at this harbor owns a a prelude to the C-Dory the made by Marble Marine Hunkydory. This is his and its the last one made.


This is the number three Hunkydory made and fishing.


Brian and Brandy on their trawler "San Simone" docked next to us today. We heard them calling Richard on New Moon in Khaz Bay three days ago. They have lots of experience on the Inland Channel and this year completed the circle around Baronof Island after coming up from Bellingham. They considered rounding cape Ommaney and the trip up the west coast of Baranof Island a major accomplishment. Has got me thinking if it would be possible to do in a 22 foot C-Dory. They are friends of Richard and we found them to enjoyable folks to be around.
Their boat is just behind ours in this photo.

Was hoping to meet Richard, but he is over in the Juneau area, so maybe another time.

7-20-10

Asked a guy to take a photo of us here by the Harbor office.


The wallas is down for the count this summer, so its the Buddy Heater for heat and Coleman stove for cooking from now on. Was able to make the bond between fan and motor, but motor would then quit and in process of checking it out shorted the control board. It is definitely the most unreliable addition to the boat or should I say the opposite you can count on it giving out every trip.

Headed south across Sitka Sound to Redoubt Bay falls to see the bears and fish for springers. Saw a couple bears, but no luck with the fishing. They were jumping out of the water continuously but not biting and no luck snagging.

Anchored for the night in a small channel off Aleautkina Bay.

42 miles today and 514 total

7-21-10

Back from nights achorage to Sitka in thick fog. Stocked up on ice, groceries and filled the fuel tanks. Now with Wallas down and using diesel container for gas can top off with 101 gallons. Fuel prices for Sitka best so far. If over 50 gallons is purchased its $3.36 per gallon.

When we called the Sitka Harbormaster asking for temporary dock space, Steve Oberto, owner of the very large trawler "Maxamo" heard us call and came over to greet us when we pulled in. He has a 14 foot C-Dory as a Dingy and Carry's two Mokai's on the Maxamo along with I think two other small boats. We had met him in Red Bluff Bay in 2007 and was great visiting with him again. He is staying north longer this year than in the past. Wants to see the bears during the fish runs. Was swapping stories about the Anna and Sister Lake area and He said He took the Maxamo into and immediately back out of Sister Lake on a very high slack tie. Now that's one I would have payed to watch. He also said we should check out Patterson Bay near the southeast end of Baranof Island. He though it was more spectacular than Red Bluff Bay, so its on our agenda if it works out. This is a photo of the Maxamo in Red Bluff Bay in 2007.

Met another couple while fueling who told us about this other C-Dory they had seen in Sitka a few years ago who had their grand kids aboard and still wondered just how they managed it. Even remember their names. El and Bill they said you would remember the trawler "Zucceenee".

From Sitka headed north in the fog and light rain at displacement speed to Schulze Cove for the nights anchorage, which is very close to Sergius Narrows rapids and the entry to Peril Straight. The Zucchini is anchored here by us tonight.

36 miles today and 550 total

7-22-10

Through Sergius Narrows rapids mid way through the flood tide. Best I could estimate it was running 6mph. Many swirls, but no problems. With the 100 gallons of fuel and all the stuff aboard we're the heaviest ever on a cruise. Other than lack of power notice the extra weight most in how stiff it is to steer.

Stopped for a break in Appleton Cove and saw a mama grizzly and her three cubs.

Stopped at Warm Springs Bay to soak in the hot water pools by the falls and walked out to the lake picking and eating salmon berries most of the way. Was planning on continuing down to Red Bluff Bay but by the time we headed back out into Chatham Straight the storm that was supposed to hit this evening had arrived early. To big of waves for us, so we're anchored for the night and most likely through tomorrow night. Small craft warning tonight and tomorrow. Have some good books and we can soak some more in the hot water.

On the trail back from the lake met a group of people from a large yacht and their faces really lit up when I told them I saw a small cub but not the mother bear up the trail a hundred yards. They weren't amused when I said "just kidding".

76 miles today and 626 total

7-23-10

All day in Warm Springs Bay. Re anchored close to the dock. Had to use short scope due to many fishing and large trawlers all anchored close together in this area. Bottom very hard so dragged anchor twice during the day. Would lose set when tide changed. Water is about 60 feet and can only use 130 feet of rode to keep from over swinging. Docks filled with boats fishing and cruise with the fishing boats rafting four deep. Thought we would get a turn at the dock but doesn't look like that's going to happen. With the storm on Chatham Straight the boats just aren't moving.

Walked back up to the lake and hot pools and picked a large bowl of ripe blue berries. Delicious!! Took the Mokai up to the face of the large falls maneuvering around in the fast water among the rocks at low tide. Also went up the narrow shallow gorge to the small lake about a quarter mile south of the falls.

We might well be here again tomorrow . NOAA is calling for 30 knot winds on Chatham Straight tonight and tomorrow with continuing small craft warnings. So far have had much more high winds, rain and fog than previous cruises here. Checked conditions again this morning and if the wind and waves would have been coming from the north instead of south we could have made the sixteen miles to the Red Bluff Bay entrance, but we've had enough already of pounding into the waves.

Jo-Lee rested in the boat all day. On the trip to the hot pools yesterday some bug bit her very near the eye and its swollen shut today. Between that and the continual rain inside as well as outside the boat has her down a bit and I guess me somewhat too. Since leaving Skagway daytime high temperatures have only been between 52 and 58 degrees. Without the Wallas and using propane for heat and cooking the inside of the boat, clothes, bedding ect is getting pretty damp.

7 miles today and 633 total

7-24-10

Went out early to check Chatham Straight conditions and could harly believe my eyes when instead of small craft warning conditions the water was almost totally calm., so headed south to Red Bluff Bay. It was just as beautiful as we remembered it from our past stops. Fifteen miles on the Mokai. Up the river untill stopped by a huge tree across it. Saw a bear by the tree. Around and around the flats and channels and then out to the old cannery site where there was a mixture of dolley varden trout and salmon in the little bay in front of the old cannery site. Also this bear at the creek alternating from chasing and catching fish to eating salmon berries.


Caught fish untill my arms wore out and kept a couple of the small ones for dinner. The dark water in this photo is fish


Met Jerry and Tanya Sword there who where also fishing and anchored near us at the head of the bay. I've fished very little for Halibut and He invited to go out to the bay entrance in his small Boston Whaler dingy tomarrow morning. Just before dark took a walk out on whats called bear meadows and saw two bears.
Very good Day!!!

24 miles today and 657 total

7-25-10

Up early to a low tide and the Hunkydory sitting on the hard. Good thing I had raised the motors and trim tabs before going to bed.

While waiting for Jerry to pick me up for Halibut fishing the owner of the Yaught "Margarie Morningstar" came over in his RIB to give us a bear warning. He had seen me going up the river in the mOkai and this moring very early he had walked up it banks to fish and a bear charged him from the other side of the river. He said it made three charges and on the last one it was still coming at 20 feet when he set off a bear banger. Told me he thought he was bear toast for sure. Was still pretty shook up when talking to me. There are many ripe salmon berries on the steep shore opisite the grass flats and the bears are crossing back and forth. The river is shallow and I hadd been very watchfull when going up and down it. Will even be more watchfull now.

Halibut fishing was good and kept a small one for the next couple of days dinner. After fishing went back down to the old cannery are in the Hunkydory to show Jo-Lee the fish and watch the bear fishing. The sun came out today and its finally warm with only a light breeze. Fantastic Day!!! Just knew Red Bluff Bay wouldn't let us down. This years Red Bluff Bay anchorage


7 miles today and 622 total

7-26-10

Up anchor and out Red Bluff Bay heading south down the east Baranof Island coast to Patterson Bay in a three foot chop. It was from the north and we were heading south so it was a mostly a surging fun ride. Anchored between a small island and the head of the bay with waterfalls and two creeks coming in. One at each side of the bay head. Space between island and shore only enough for 90 feet of anchor rode to deep from rocks on either side of the tide swing. 20 feet of water at mid tide and good sticky mud bottom, so will sleep well even if only 20 feet from from the shores on the swing at low tide.

Temputure up to 72 degrees and felt much warmer. Lazed in the sun soaking up its rays and the beauty all around. Schools of small fish and seals after them around and about the boat. Have been hoping for a bear to appear on the near grass line, but so far no luck. Just stuffed ourselfves on a delicous halibut dinner and feeling sleepy enough for bed. Didn't see another boat after seeing the National Geografic "Seabird" as we left Red Bluff Bay this morning.
Patterson Bay anchorage looking toward bay head.

Patterson Bay anchorage looking towar the bay entrance


34 miles today and 698 total

7-27-10

Left Patterson Bay headed south to Port Alexander and then tried to made it around Cape Ommaney to head back north on the west outside coast of Baranof Island to Sitka. NOAA weather called for northwest winds of 15 knots but with the current and rips it was very rough especially as we had to pound directly into it. We were in confused seas but not really dangerous, but could see nothing but the tops of white waves ahead, so did an about face and back to Port Alexander. There met and spent most of the day talking to charter and commercial fisherman to determine if trying to made outside run to Sitka to be above ours or maybe even the boats ability. All the folks we consulted said Cape Ommaney and the first ten miles or so north are about the worst waters in southeast alaska to navigate. Two very experienced charter boat captains one running a 31 foot Albin the other a 27 foot Sea Hawk both broached later today very near where we turned around. Both lost controll of their boats and did a 180 degree uncontrolled turn. They said it was the first time it had happened to either of them. They said in the outside area of the Cape when NOAA is calling for 15 knot winds it can be blowing 35 plus knots and that combined with the rips makes for very bad water. 10 to 12 foot vertical close spaced waves sure sounded bad to me. Blue sky and still winds in Port Alexander today which is only 6 miles from Cape Ommaney on the Chatham Straight side. NOAA calling for more northwest winds tomarrow with a change to southwest and then south the next two days after. From the information I've been gathering this should give us the window we need to made the run. Other plus side is they should lift the fog up the coast in the Sitka area. Negative is they will bring rain.

Hunkydory at the dock with some of the Port Alexander fleet


Port Alexander front dock and town beach front


This is the 31 foot Albin that broached at Cape Ommaney the same day we tried to round it.


We have not seen another cruise type boat sense leaving Red Bluff Bay. Cruise books don't recommnend Port Alexander and several of the boaters we talked to since leaving Skagway were somewhat apprehensive or even afraid to dock here. They are an independent free spirited folk and we have found them the friendliest and most welcoming of all the places so far. Similair to how Pelican used to be. Port Alesander is if not the most islated small town in Southeat Alaska not having to try much to be near it. As friendly as the people here are I think if riding in on a high horse it would not take long to find yourself on the ground.

The little townhall called the Bear Den has a computer with internet access when the town generator is running. The're running it today so plan on making a quick post to the C-Brats. Tied to the dock tonight with only commercial and charter boats around us making the Hunkydory feel almost as small as earlier today whe we tried to make Cape Ommaney.

46 miles today and 744 total

7-28-10

This morning the Captain of one of the boats that broached yesterday who's father in law owns the "laughing Raven Lodge" here took me up to the Lodge to get internet weather. Internet was down, but he later brough me a print out that he had accessed. It amazed me He would bring me right into the room the guest were eating breakfast in so we could ateempt to get on the computer. In Pelican I went to a Lodge to buy a fishing Licience and they made me wait out on the boardwalk while gettin it for me and they didn't even have a guest in the lodge at the time. Shared a beer with and talked to both of the Charter boat Captains again this evening. Said conditions were terrible again today on the back side of the Cape. Now the winds are supposed to switch from north to south tomarrow afernoon. There should be a window of flat water then. Now if it will just happen when we have enough daylight to make use of it. Really enjoying the stay here, but both of us are apprehensive about this outside run. Debating on whether or not we should give the idea up and head back up Chatham Straight instead.

Wooden fishing boat built in 1930 whom owner in photo brought up from Port Townsend, Washington. Owner works part time for the town.


Port Alexander inner harbor boat graveyard

[Captains Cat]

Great stories and photos. Keep them coming!

Charlie

[JamesTXSD]

Great photo essay!