The C-Brats Forum Index
HomeForumsMy TopicsCalendarEvent SignupsMemberlistOur C-DorysThe Brat MapPhotos

Lewmar V700 windlass installation
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The C-Brats Forum Index -> Anchoring
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
SouthLake



Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 111
City/Region: Celina
State or Province: OH
C-Dory Year: 2008
Photos: Get~Aweigh
PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting to read this thread.

I have a Lewmar Pro Sport horizontal windlass that's a year old. After some issues with the anchor/anchor roller combination that I took care of (see earlier posts), the windlass has worked fine. That is until last week.

I was letting the anchor out and after about 25 feet of chain/rode, the windlass stopped. No tripped breaker or blown fuse. I hauled the anchor in by hand and secured it and haven't had a chance to start checking power at different points but after reading this I'm now wondering about the up/down switch.

It's always good to check this site first because it seems every problem has been encountered before and there's a wealth of valuable advice available.

_________________
Jeff and Deb Marcum
the Get~Aweigh
2010 R-25
www.GetAweigh.com
email: TheMarcums@GetAweigh.COM
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeff-

Let us know what you find out when to try to use the windlass next!

That full-current carrying up/down switch is a serious weak spot on the smaller Lewmar windlass models. They should have used a relay, as we've discussed above. It doesn't take a Ph.D. Electrical Engineer to figure that out, either, just a quick look at the failure rate.

If you have problems, get a volt meter and follow the circuit and find out where the voltage drops off. I can't overemphasize how useful a volt/ohm/amp meter can be in problem solving electrical problems.

Sometimes you seem to need two people to do a test, one to push buttons/switches and another to hold the meter leads and read the voltage/resistance/etc.

I have an extra long pair of leads that have small alligator clips on them so I can clip them on a circuit, put the meter where I can read it, then go throw the switch/push the button/etc. This allows me to work alone when the testing would initially seem to require two people.

And, what's more, sometimes, even a simple continuity tester (an incadesent 12 volt bulb in a socket with two leads) can work to find and solve the problem if it's simple enough.

Good Luck with the windlass!


Joe Teeth Thumbs Up

_________________
Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California

"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
Posts: 7313
City/Region: Cod Creek>Potomac River>Chesapeake Bay
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Captain's Choice II
Photos: Captain's Cat
PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my case, it took over a year for me (BSEE, MSEE, E.Engr(just short of a PhD) to replace the up/down switch. Embarassed I'll bet you a beer that the next time you try it, it'll work again (for awhile). Those were my symptoms...

The up/down switch is sealed, there is no way to clean the internal contacts or even look at them w/o tearing it up. I suspect many are using one of these, maybe with no problem.

They are about $45 to replace. The next time it goes, I'll do the solenoid routine.

Charlie

_________________
CHARLIE and PENNY CBRAT #100
Captain's Cat II 2005 22 Cruiser
Thataway (2006 TC255 - Sold Aug 2013)
Captain's Cat (2006 TC255 - Sold January 2012)
Captain's Kitten (1995 CD 16 Angler- Sold June 2010)
Captain's Choice (1994 CD 22 Cruiser- Sold Jun 2007)
Potomac River/Chesapeake Bay
K4KBA
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
Posts: 7313
City/Region: Cod Creek>Potomac River>Chesapeake Bay
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Captain's Choice II
Photos: Captain's Cat
PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just got in from Sundowners in the River. 15' of water and the windlass and the new U/D switch functioned flawlessly. Can't believe it took that long to figure out!

Charlie
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
SouthLake



Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 111
City/Region: Celina
State or Province: OH
C-Dory Year: 2008
Photos: Get~Aweigh
PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe, thanks for the input.

So today my neighbor who happens to understand electricity (I'm a novice here) came over with his voltmeter and we started at the battery compartment.

The way my windlass is wired is that a positive wire runs from the battery to a box that has a maxifuse in it. That fuse was blown. My neighbor wanted to determine what caused the fuse to blow. He tested everything including the switch. The fuse had some discoloration on the terminals and he is just guessing that perhaps the screws that held it in place were not sufficiently tight and that may have caused an arc that blew the fuse.

So for now, I went to Autozone, bought two fuses, replaced the bad one and the windlass seems to work OK. That said, based on the commentary here, I'm expecting another failure at which time I'll just order a new switch.


_________________
Jeff and Deb
the Get~Aweigh
2008 25 Cruiser
Celina, OH
http://www.MontezumaBay.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
JGrider



Joined: 26 Feb 2010
Posts: 93
City/Region: Laplace
State or Province: LA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Jeannie's VOO DOO
Photos: Jeannie’s VOO DOO
PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 8:41 pm    Post subject: Lewmar V700 windlass installation Reply with quote

I had the courage to buy a V700 but I am having to build up courage to cut a hole in the deck.So while I build up the courage I have some questions.
1. How far back from the bow roller is required to allow the windlass to work at its best? I have a davit back about 15" from the end of the bow roller. Should I move this or squeese the windlass in between?

2. Should I remove the anti skid surface under the windlass?

3. Is the 3M 4200 used on both sides of the rubber? Or do I just need the 4200 between the deck and the rubber

4. Is the metal plate for under the deck?

5. Can you plug the hole in the antiskid where the old hawse pipe went through with a part of the new hole you cut out?

6. What filler material goes into the epoxy to make it a paste that Dr Bob talks about using to replace and seal the balsa core?

7. Should I wire this directly to a battery? Does it matter which one, house or starting?
If these questions seem silly Im sorry, but I would rather seem silly than to learn from my mistakes. Thanks

_________________
John & Jeannie Grider
Jeannie's VooDoo

Home port: LaPlace, Louisiana
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll give you my opinions, but they are just that....opinions:
1. I wonder what type of davit you have, and what are the consiquences of removing it? 12 to 15" in back of the roller is fine--but you want to have the rode/chain go straight down into the chain locker--and not onto the V berth.

2. I have done it both ways, but prefer to remove the non side.

3. I put the 4200 on the deck side.

4. Plate goes under the deck

5. Plugging hawse pipe holes is not easy. You may be able to use the plug you cut out--but I use a hole saw, so there will be a 1/4" pilot hole in the center of a plug I cut out. Some hawse pipes are small and round, others are oval, and large, so it depends on what you have.

6. Cabosil or fumed silica is the thickening material. At times I also use high or medium density filler, depending on what I am filling.

7. I like to go directly to a battery, and choose the engine start battery, since I have the engine running when running the windlass "up".

Nothing silly here!

_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
JGrider



Joined: 26 Feb 2010
Posts: 93
City/Region: Laplace
State or Province: LA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Jeannie's VOO DOO
Photos: Jeannie’s VOO DOO
PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 11:11 pm    Post subject: Lewmar V700 windlass installation Reply with quote

Thanks Bob, If it isn't raining when I get up I will see how much I can get done tomorrow. All good answers, or rather, opinions as ussual
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
JGrider



Joined: 26 Feb 2010
Posts: 93
City/Region: Laplace
State or Province: LA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Jeannie's VOO DOO
Photos: Jeannie’s VOO DOO
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 11:59 pm    Post subject: Lewmar V700 windlass installation Reply with quote

I asked a lot of questions and I got excellent responses. I now have no fear of putting holes in my boat. I just wish someone had told me to drill right though the template and not to take it off. I was trying to save a plug to fill the hole where the old hawse pipe was needed to draw the line to avoid the hole left from a hole saw. Removed the template, big mistake. I do know that I am becoming a better person. I did not cuss even once!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
JGrider



Joined: 26 Feb 2010
Posts: 93
City/Region: Laplace
State or Province: LA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Jeannie's VOO DOO
Photos: Jeannie’s VOO DOO
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:32 pm    Post subject: Lewmar V700 windlass installation Reply with quote

Hi Guys, The switch that came with the V700 is the basic switch and I intend to use it for a while before I upgrade to a contacter. The problem I have is the thickness of the dash where I drilled a small round hole to mount the switch is about a half inch thick. That is all the threads that are on the switch. Is the correct way to mount this switch to cut a square hole and fit the switch into square cutout and try to tighen up the switch to the face plate somehow?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
Posts: 7313
City/Region: Cod Creek>Potomac River>Chesapeake Bay
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Captain's Choice II
Photos: Captain's Cat
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:16 am    Post subject: Re: Lewmar V700 windlass installation Reply with quote

JGrider wrote:
Hi Guys, The switch that came with the V700 is the basic switch and I intend to use it for a while before I upgrade to a contacter. The problem I have is the thickness of the dash where I drilled a small round hole to mount the switch is about a half inch thick. That is all the threads that are on the switch. Is the correct way to mount this switch to cut a square hole and fit the switch into square cutout and try to tighen up the switch to the face plate somehow?


I think you may be able to find a thinner section somewhere, not sure. On my TC, it's mounted way over to the RH Side, not on the dash proper. You do need to be able to SEE the chain/rode come up to know when to stop it! Shocked I'm converting to a contactor very soon. Replaced the switch recently and it worked well for awhile but still is "intermittent" at times. I have a larger square hole that is just covered by the face plate with the four screws at the corners holding it into the fiberglass...

Charlie
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
JGrider



Joined: 26 Feb 2010
Posts: 93
City/Region: Laplace
State or Province: LA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Jeannie's VOO DOO
Photos: Jeannie’s VOO DOO
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:56 am    Post subject: Lewmar V700 windlass installation Reply with quote

Thanks for your reply Charlie, I have already drilled a hole so I am commited to the location. I have also change my plans and have ordered a cheap contactor, $23.00 and will be looking for a different swith as well.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Aurelia



Joined: 21 Aug 2009
Posts: 2331
City/Region: Gig Harbor
State or Province: WA
Photos: Aurelia
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Related question: I have one of these vertical units and want to lube the above deck components. But, the cap is stuck and I don't feel like the plastic handle supplied is up to the task of breaking it loose. I am actively looking for a square headed bolt I can use with a pipe wrench but it looks like I will be doing some time with the grinder this evening to make it fit. Any other ideas?
_________________
Greg, Cindie & Aven
Gig Harbor
Aurelia - 25 Cruiser sold 2012
Ari - 19 Cruiser sold 2023
currently exploring with "Lia", 17 ft Bullfrog Supersport Pilothouse
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just use the hole you've drilled for the switch for the final application with the contactor. Get a switch with a LONG threaded shank, of course.

Meantime, you can mount the switch you have on an aluminum bracket you can easily make, and mount it off to the right of the dash and below the starboard side window. (Will require longer wiring temporarily than when finished permanently.)

Another really good reason to use the contactor method is that you can add a remote cabled switch to the set up, and use it from the deck yourself. Make it long enough you can pass it through the hatch on the v-berth, and then you can go forward and operate the windlass on the foredeck when you have problems, need to wash the anchor and/or rode off with a brush, or simply want to operate it from there by yourself to see the retrieval process in a difficult situation, etc.

You can easily make one yourself with two momentary contact switches, a few short pieces of PVC pipe, a T-fitting, and some 3-conductor cable.

Be careful when operating it! That windlass and chain, particularly, is about as forgiving as a meat grinder! Smile

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
Posts: 7313
City/Region: Cod Creek>Potomac River>Chesapeake Bay
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Captain's Choice II
Photos: Captain's Cat
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Lewmar V700 windlass installation Reply with quote

JGrider wrote:
Thanks for your reply Charlie, I have already drilled a hole so I am commited to the location. I have also change my plans and have ordered a cheap contactor, $23.00 and will be looking for a different swith as well.


Yeah, me too, I ordered a contactor that Seawolf Joe recommended. I think that THATAWAY already has that setup and now CAPTAINS Cat will too! I'll use the same up/down switch but with just the control current/voltage, it will be fine not passing that high amperage to the motor on the windlass!! Thumbs Up

Charlie
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The C-Brats Forum Index -> Anchoring All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Page 2 of 5

 
     Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum



Page generation time: 0.1474s (PHP: 85% - SQL: 15%) - SQL queries: 33 - GZIP disabled - Debug on